Worn bits - I've had my fun

[winjim]

Mechs are pretty serviceable if you've got a bit of time on your hands to take it apart, clean it and put it back together again. With some of the lower spec ones they're pinned together so you do reach a point where you can't take it apart any further, and be prepared for some swearing at the little springs. It's a pleasant way to spend an evening though.

 

[roubaixtuesday]

What are peoples thoughts on keeping a "dry miles only" bike, especially here in the UK

I have a bike with mudguards I use if I expect it to be wet, and I use for winter commuting in non-covid times. But that's more for comfort than maintenance. Having a spare bike generally make sense so breakdowns don't ground you; that spare bike being different (ie MTB vs road, or "wet" vs "dry") also makes sense so you can have the right bike for the right job.

 

[Blue Hills]

I take great care of my bikes. I don't ride and throw in the garage.

You know, that's exactly the sort of low level comment that puts me off this forum. Smart arses taking the higher ground. Get lost.

An over the top response of yours I think.
I can't imagine why a rear mech would just seize unless it had been biffed.
On the headset, I'd open it up and see if you can clean things and regrease.
My headsets always ooze after I've seen to them. Oozing is good.
Do you use mudguards on the front?
I wouldn't have expected the chainrings to be shot so soon.
I'd invest in some tools and start to do more yourself as you go along.
That way for sure you are never going to be faced with even a possibility of a whole load of stuff needing replacing at the same time.

 

[Drago]

An LBS telling you that you need to spend lots of money with them.

Now there's a thing,

 

[Brandane]

The rear derailleur. Mechanically they are quite simple things, with the clever stuff being done by the shifters. Assuming shifters and cables are working as they should, I would be removing the derailleur and giving it a thorough clean. My way of doing this is a small plastic container with enough diesel in it to give the derailleur a good soaking. Take the jockey wheels off, noting which one is top and which is bottom for re-assembly. It's a mucky job to do right, but use an old toothbrush and give the whole thing a good clean. After the diesel wash, give it another clean in hot soapy water. Re-assemble and lubricate, and I would be surprised if it didn't work as new. Only possible worn bits are as someone previously posted, the jockey wheels. But at 4500 miles I would be surprised... but then I am very surprised that the chain rings are worn at that mileage.

 

[I like Skol]

I have Tiagra 10spd and getting on for 7k on the chainrings without any problems. I also commute in all sorts of shoot, all year round, without being very fastidious about drivetrain cleanliness. In fact, some might accuse me of neglect
New chain about every 1.5k and the cassette was also replaced at 6k.
The 10spd stuff seems to be robust and reliable despite what I put it through.

 

[Blue Hills]

The rear derailleur. Mechanically they are quite simple things, with the clever stuff being done by the shifters. Assuming shifters and cables are working as they should, I would be removing the derailleur and giving it a thorough clean. My way of doing this is a small plastic container with enough diesel in it to give the derailleur a good soaking. Take the jockey wheels off, noting which one is top and which is bottom for re-assembly. It's a mucky job to do right, but use an old toothbrush and give the whole thing a good clean. After the diesel wash, give it another clean in hot soapy water. Re-assemble and lubricate, and I would be surprised if it didn't work as new. Only possible worn bits are as someone previously posted, the jockey wheels. But at 4500 miles I would be surprised... but then I am very surprised that the chain rings are worn at that mileage.

Good advice brandane, but a bit old school with the diesel? Puts me in mind of the nice old chap on my introductory bike maintenance course who suggested cleaning chains in a tray of petrol.
Anything wrong with a good spraying with GT85?
and the toothbrush of course.

 

[Brandane]

Good advice brandane, but a bit old school with the diesel? Puts me in mind of the nice old chap on my introductory bike maintenance course who suggested cleaning chains in a tray of petrol.
Anything wrong with a good spraying with GT85?
and the toothbrush of course.

My thinking is that placing it in a bath and soaking it is more thorough. If they sold GT85 in large amounts for £1.20 per litre, I would use that!

 

[si_c]

My thinking is that placing it in a bath and soaking it is more thorough. If they sold GT85 in large amounts for £1.20 per litre, I would use that!

I use warm water and a sonic cleaner for a half hour then give it a spray with some WD40 and then scrub with a toothbrush. Then run through the cleaner again. I find that gets it plenty clean without the diesel
I'd be tempted to try cleaning it your way, but I think Mrs C would have exploding kittens if she found me with a tub of diesel in the kitchen.

 

[Brandane]

I'd be tempted to try cleaning it your way, but I think Mrs C would have exploding kittens if she found me with a tub of diesel in the kitchen.

There lies one of the advantages of the single life!

 

[Sharky]

In defence of the LBS, the time cost for inspecting, cleaning, un seizing and putting back some items might exceed the cost of a new part plus fitting. And he probably wouldn't want you back a few days later claiming it still a problem and asking for it to be fixed again under warranty.

I am a little surprised that all of the components are failing all together at the same time. Would have expected some to have failed and have given you problems earlier.

Good advice above from most of the responders. Good look with the DIY items.

 

[simongt]

it is also weird that your rear brake pads have gone before your front.

Because I'm of the old school of applying the front brake a smidge before the rear to prevent possible rear wheel slide out, my front brakes always wear out before the back.

 

[CanucksTraveller]

I take great care of my bikes. I don't ride and throw in the garage.
You know, that's exactly the sort of low level comment that puts me off this forum. Smart arses taking the higher ground. Get lost.

He's always like that lately, just pop him on ignore if he's bothering you. Many already have done.

The rear mech is probably jockey wheels - can't see how else anything would seize, unless something's broken. Good clean would help.

I agree that's a good place to start, and it might be all it needs.

I think the LBS may be over egging the pudding slightly - I'd be very surprised if the cranks are worn after just 5k miles, brake pads, chain and cassette sure.

+1 to this. I think the LBS are overestimating.

Assuming shifters and cables are working as they should, I would be removing the derailleur and giving it a thorough clean.

Agree, after the jockey wheels, I'd be going there next. I'd be amazed if it needed a new derailleur, they're hardy things.

My TCR (also Tiagra 10 speed) has done a bit more than your mileage over a couple more years riding, including winter / wet (no mudguards, it's not a commuter). I've got no crank, headset, chainring problems and I think your problems aren't as serious as the LBS is making out.

 

[fossyant]

Worn chain rings usually go very shark toothed and you'll start to get chain suck. I'd be surprised on a road bike as it takes many many thousands of miles to wear out. MTB - I went through a £50 chain ring in 12 months. PS the teeth are often profiled, so don't take it that they are worn.

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

4500 miles in 2 years is approx 40 miles per week. One moderate or two short rides each weekend.
The assumption is that OP trashes his bike, then forgets about it till next weekend.
Most of that stuff should be given a quick once over every time the bike comes out.