Tubeless tyre worn out

[Ian H]

I dragged the blue Hallett (700C x 25 tubeless) out for the first time this year. The front tyre (original since 2021, never been off the rim - never punctured) wouldn't inflate, with air hissing past the valve. The tyre was very worn, so I decided to replace it.

The tyre came off with bits of rim tape, which had hardened and broken. The tyre was caked with dried sealant (as expected after 4 years of top-ups). There was liquid sealant in the rim, which took a while to drain out.

My first attempt at re-taping didn't work - it was too cold in the garage. I brought everything inside to warm up. The second attempt was fine.

A new GP5000 was a bastard to get on. I mounted it on the bare rim first to stretch it into shape, then added the tape and the valve and put it on again. The valve bung turned out to be a little too wide to allow the tyre to seat properly. I had to loosen it to let the tyre beads past, then retighten.

Then, finally, popped the tyre on with the airshock; added sealant and spun the wheel, pumped it up, spun again and kneaded the tyre where there was a slight hiss (which stopped). All ready for tomorrow's clubrun.

With all of that, 25mm high- pressures don't work quite as well tubeless. I always have to top them up before a ride whereas the 38s on the other bike hold their 50psi for a couple of weeks. So I'm going to go 'faux-tubeless' after these tyres are finished - https://www.cyclinguk.org/cycle-magazine/how-get-fewer-flat-tyres-your-bike

 

[HLaB]

I dragged the blue Hallett (700C x 25 tubeless) out for the first time this year. The front tyre (original since 2021, never been off the rim - never punctured) wouldn't inflate, with air hissing past the valve. The tyre was very worn, so I decided to replace it.

The tyre came off with bits of rim tape, which had hardened and broken. The tyre was caked with dried sealant (as expected after 4 years of top-ups). There was liquid sealant in the rim, which took a while to drain out.

My first attempt at re-taping didn't work - it was too cold in the garage. I brought everything inside to warm up. The second attempt was fine.

A new GP5000 was a bastard to get on. I mounted it on the bare rim first to stretch it into shape, then added the tape and the valve and put it on again. The valve bung turned out to be a little too wide to allow the tyre to seat properly. I had to loosen it to let the tyre beads past, then retighten.

Then, finally, popped the tyre on with the airshock; added sealant and spun the wheel, pumped it up, spun again and kneaded the tyre where there was a slight hiss (which stopped). All ready for tomorrow's clubrun.

With all of that, 25mm high- pressures don't work quite as well tubeless. I always have to top them up before a ride whereas the 38s on the other bike hold their 50psi for a couple of weeks. So I'm going to go 'faux-tubeless' after these tyres are finished - https://www.cyclinguk.org/cycle-magazine/how-get-fewer-flat-tyres-your-bike

It could be your sealant? I found out a few weeks back despite being great to set up Peatys was only good at >40psi but was useless below that apparently other sealants are the exact opposite, Stans regular is good at low pressure but not so good at high pressures which explains my experience with it before I went back to Stans race for a bit, it seals fast at all pressures and sealed my 25mm's fine but it could clog valves.

 

[fossyant]

None of this faffing with tubes.

 

[a.twiddler]

None of this faffing with automotive tubeless either. Mind you, this is long established technology with large air volumes and relatively low pressure. Maybe once the mass market develops (if it ever does) for bicycle tubeless at high pressure we'll see the same ease of use. Meanwhile, everyone is potentially a test pilot.

 

[Moodyman]

I’m sure there are strong arguments in favour of tubeless.

However, having watched two very experienced cyclists struggle, just as the OP did, and then revert to putting tubes in, I felt I was in a good place with talced butyl.

 

[Ajax Bay]

@Moodyman Why do you feel the need to talc tubes? Much benefit? Easier to get the tubes over the rims? Reduced friction/hysteresis saves watts?

 

[Ian H]

It could be your sealant? I found out a few weeks back despite being great to set up Peatys was only good at >40psi but was useless below that apparently other sealants are the exact opposite, Stans regular is good at low pressure but not so good at high pressures which explains my experience with it before I went back to Stans race for a bit, it seals fast at all pressures and sealed my 25mm's fine but it could clog valves.

The sealant would have been a mixture of whatever the shop had each time I wandered in. But what caused the failure was the rim tape hardening and breaking up. I haven't had that happen before. Anyway, it's all back together for another four years

 

[Ajax Bay]

Anyway, it's all back together for another four years

So going to go 'faux-tubeless' is not on the near future agenda, then?
'Another four years'! Your optimism is infectious, hopefully. I look forward to catching it at an early opportunity

 

[Ian H]

I’m sure there are strong arguments in favour of tubeless.

However, having watched two very experienced cyclists struggle, just as the OP did, and then revert to putting tubes in, I felt I was in a good place with talced butyl.

Struggle? The only real problem was the cold weather. Once warmed up everything worked. The disintegrating rim tape was a puzzle. But that's after four completely trouble-free years. I had one puncture on the rear, a few years ago - ripped sidewall which necessitated fitting a tube, which I did by the roadside.

 

[Ian H]

So going to go 'faux-tubeless' is not on the near future agenda, then?
'Another four years'! Your optimism is infectious, hopefully. I look forward to catching it at an early opportunity

I might do that on the Blue One. 25mm is on the edge of tubeless technology. But apart from not holding pressure as long as I'd like, it's been more reliable than tubes. So no hurry, I shall wear these tyres out first.

 

[Moodyman]

@Moodyman Why do you feel the need to talc tubes? Much benefit? Easier to get the tubes over the rims? Reduced friction/hysteresis saves watts?

I ride commutouring tyres and the gaps between punctures are long. I found when I removed the tube (upon a puncture) it had often welded itself to the tyre inner. Upon removing, the tube would tear thus making it unrepairable.

When fitting a new tyre, I throw in a it of talc into the inner and smear it all round. This creates a barrier between the tube and tyre.

 

[Tom B]

I put talc on my tyres, makes them easier to get on the rim.

It always ends up on the tube or between the tube and tyre too and stops them being tacky and for me means they go in better

 

[ColinJ]

I might try the talc trick. I have talc in the bathroom that I never use!

 

[Tom B]

I might try the talc trick. I have talc in the bathroom that I never use!

Don't anticipate using it up. I have a bottle in the shed that's probably older than me and about a quarter used.