Car D.I.Y.

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MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
No idea on the Mini other than I’d wouldn’t have one again if by choice. Certainly the older one with Peugeot engine ! Horrible thing .
 

Jameshow

Veteran
No idea on the Mini other than I’d wouldn’t have one again if by choice. Certainly the older one with Peugeot engine ! Horrible thing .

Ours is older still with the BMW/ Chrysler Triton engine.

I think it's a hoot drive being a cooper however mechanically I think they were trying to be a little too clever, esp compared to my Son's Polo.
 

sevenfourate

Devotee of OCD
Just done the Mazda 3 today. Mine was awkward because everything is covered (as are all modern cars now) by covers.
Sump plug to the back of the sump so awkward to reach and tighten unless you're on a ramp.
No drama thought, awkward but ok, Mannol 5w30,new filter, 9k miles since last serviced. I usually aim for 6k but getting it done while cold and wet is always ...tedious. Schedule reset at 6k, nice to have it done.
Normal schedule is 12.5k i think so well within limits.

Long time user of Mannol, first time trying it or ?

My Ford Duratec-derived Mazda MX-5 engine takes 5-30w. Previously always used a certain fuly-synthetic Mobil; which I think is utterly brilliant. It really does purr like a kitten after an oil change. Unlike many of these engines: mines never burned a single drop of oil. It’s sounds great from cold - also the same on the hottest of days. But it is also £50 minimum for 5 litres. The Mannol can be had for under £15 ! I just now wonder is there really a need for the Mobi ? Perhaps the ‘any old oil and change regularly’ mantra is a better way to go 🤷‍♂️

Although my gut says go with what you know. It’s a heck of a saving to be had if they are really more alike than you know.

**No increase in noise, oil consumption etc with the Mannol - if you’re a repeat user ?
 

Jameshow

Veteran
Long time user of Mannol, first time trying it or ?

My Ford Duratec-derived Mazda MX-5 engine takes 5-30w. Previously always used a certain fuly-synthetic Mobil; which I think is utterly brilliant. It really does purr like a kitten after an oil change. Unlike many of these engines: mines never burned a single drop of oil. It’s sounds great from cold - also the same on the hottest of days. But it is also £50 minimum for 5 litres. The Mannol can be had for under £15 ! I just now wonder is there really a need for the Mobi ? Perhaps the ‘any old oil and change regularly’ mantra is a better way to go 🤷‍♂️

Although my gut says go with what you know. It’s a heck of a saving to be had if they are really more alike than you know.

**No increase in noise, oil consumption etc with the Mannol - if you’re a repeat user ?

Try it! if it sound noiser then treat it as an engine flush and put mobil back in?
 

Cletus Van Damme

Previously known as Cheesney Hawks
Having owned a Mazda MX5 Mk3 with the 2.0 litre duratech and the 1.3 Mazda 2 tried different oils. Used Mobil 1 in the MX5 then Comma Xtech 5w30 fully synthetic, continued to use it as the 2 takes the same oil. Never had any issues and could never tell any difference in the car with them. Its around £30 for 5 litres. Used Comma oils for years in other Japanese cars and Vauxhall's, never had any issues. Seen Mannol and thought about it due to price. But just keep on with the mid-priced Comma option, change it every 6-8K miles.
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
Long time user of Mannol, first time trying it or ?

My Ford Duratec-derived Mazda MX-5 engine takes 5-30w. Previously always used a certain fuly-synthetic Mobil; which I think is utterly brilliant. It really does purr like a kitten after an oil change. Unlike many of these engines: mines never burned a single drop of oil. It’s sounds great from cold - also the same on the hottest of days. But it is also £50 minimum for 5 litres. The Mannol can be had for under £15 ! I just now wonder is there really a need for the Mobi ? Perhaps the ‘any old oil and change regularly’ mantra is a better way to go 🤷‍♂️

Although my gut says go with what you know. It’s a heck of a saving to be had if they are really more alike than you know.

**No increase in noise, oil consumption etc with the Mannol - if you’re a repeat user ?

First time user for Mannol, it came recommended by I can't remember who or where that recommendation came from tbf.
Very keenly priced, at Euro Car Parts I noticed Mobil 1 listed at over £100 for 5 ltr, no doubt subject to a hefty discount.
I think I paid ,£22 for the Mannol, given I try to change well before recommended mileage, should be more than ok. No pouring spout mind.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Got to replace the gearbox mount again on MrsF's Qashqai. I suspect the one I put on in November was a bit cheap, despite the 5 year guarantee. Spent a bit more on a Borg and Beck one. The rubber mount didn't last. The replacement seems much more solid.

I suspect some is MrsF's gear change/clutch work as she's not very mechanically sympathetic. Bish bash bosh would describe her driving.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Gearbox mount was shot. Only been in since November but the rubber surrounding the bolted section had just come away, allowing the mount to move significantly. Fair weight difference between the two parts !
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
I need to replace the serpentine belt on the MX-5, seeing as it's been whizzing round for 10 years. Apparently it's just a case of using a breaker bar and socket to relax the tension pulley, whipping off the old belt and slipping on the new one, but you need three hands.

Still, it can't be worse than changing the nearside low beam bulb. I deserve a medal for that one.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
That is one of the problems these days buying parts you never know the quality, even price is no indication

It's a bit annoying, tend to look for Lemforder etc suspension drop links, but I may just message the seller - can't be bothered to send it back, to get sent another as it will probably cost about £10 to send it, and I don't want another part from them.
 

november4

Senior Member
A couple of tips on fan belt change, maybe...

If your pulling the old one down & out, tie wrap the new one to it.

For my car I struggled with having room for a long handled tool to move, what worked was a 1/2in drive into open end of the spanner that's on the tensioner nut; that way could get more of a right angle - I had to remove the icu to get some room. Hope that saves some time
 

sevenfourate

Devotee of OCD
I need to replace the serpentine belt on the MX-5, seeing as it's been whizzing round for 10 years. Apparently it's just a case of using a breaker bar and socket to relax the tension pulley, whipping off the old belt and slipping on the new one, but you need three hands.

Still, it can't be worse than changing the nearside low beam bulb. I deserve a medal for that one.

Wheel off, inner arch un-clipped and peeled back, reach up (With the hands and arms of a famine victim) through the newly found space 🤦‍♂️ and it’s not absolutely terrible…..
 
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