slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
Hammerite works pretty well on MDF but the brush technique needs a bit of practice. BTW, just chuck the brush when you have finished. The solvent is ruinously expensive.
Car D.I.Y.
- Thread starter Drago
- Start date
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Fastpedaller
Über Member
Despite my dislike of Hammerite, on the rare occasion I used it I found that a mixture of cellulose thinners and white spirit cleaned the brush.
slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
Cellulose thinners at my local Leyland SDM is ruinously expensive in small quantities. Hammerite doesn't need an expensive brush. I buy cheap ones and trash them each time, smug in the knowledge that I'm not releasing solvents into the atmosphere......
....or something.
Fastpedaller
Über Member
I used some of this today. When I opened the tin the contents (being very heavy I guess) had created a rather gooey mess, covered by an oily and very smelly solvent layer. Twenty -five minutes later I was still stirring it and mashing the goo against the inside walls of the tin using my 3mm stainless steel voice of stirrer - crikey it was hard graft. Eventually, I achieved an even consistency and painted it on some parts. It dried almost immediately. Judging by the way it stuck to the 'very shiny surface' stainless stirrer, I have every belief it will exceed my expectations.
Fortunately, it is white-spirit soluble, so the brush cleaned up ok, but even using white spirit on a cloth, the stirrer was a challenge to clean.
I saw a tip (I think on youtube) which has been really useful, so I'll pass it on........ Put clingfilm over your open paint tin before replacing the lid.
I have 'mangled' many a paint lid and been left with unusable paint due to the paint lids being thinner than ever - this tip means the lids will come off even after a prolonged time! It works.
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Does nobody apply a bit of copper-slip to bolts/studs these days.... and to the faces of alloys/hubs? I know there is a risk of them loosening, but its never been an issue to me me with hand tightened bolts.
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Can anyone offer ideas for helping with this?
The car has a few scabs developing on the roof just above the windscreen, a couple have developed to biggish £2 coin sized patches.
My current plan is to scrape them off, apply several coats of rust convertor some decent primer and then some matching paint.
My aim is to prevent further deterioration and penetration, it is a work horse so acceptable appearance will be fine, i'm not wanting showroom finish.
Prior to my ownership the car spent most of its life in North Yorkshire back lanes and i suspect they're untreated stone chips from the likes of surface dressed roads.
Im not so bothererd about doing the small ones its the big one i'm concerned about.
The car has a few scabs developing on the roof just above the windscreen, a couple have developed to biggish £2 coin sized patches.
My current plan is to scrape them off, apply several coats of rust convertor some decent primer and then some matching paint.
My aim is to prevent further deterioration and penetration, it is a work horse so acceptable appearance will be fine, i'm not wanting showroom finish.
Prior to my ownership the car spent most of its life in North Yorkshire back lanes and i suspect they're untreated stone chips from the likes of surface dressed roads.
Im not so bothererd about doing the small ones its the big one i'm concerned about.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
I'd scrape the paint off first to see how bad, then use a Dremel with wire brush attachment to clean that up.
Strip car down to shell, have it chemical dipped, then sprayed with etch primer. Full repsray, build back up.
Or do what you suggest. To do a half decent job will take quite a few hours of prep work. The rust will be down under the black seal area also, so would require windowscreen removal to get proper access.
Bonefish Blues
Banging donk
- Location
- 52 Festive Road
Is it by any chance a Mercedes of the period c2000-2005ish?
D
Deleted member 26715
Guest
Rav4 tipped over the 150K mark at the weekend, only things I know have been changed, tyres, brakes, alternator rebuild, fuel filler pipe, rear anti-roll bar drop links. Air con still blows cold, original clutch, I know I know, it will fall to pieces in the next month due to me bragging
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
I think i remarked on this up post...i can't say i'm absolutely right but my understanding was always...
You should not use antisieze on anything that has a specific torque setting. Torque settings are calculated without any oil, antisieze etc.
The thought process is that it reduces friction so more, perhaps a lot more, tightening is required to achieve the same torque ( dry vs antisieze)
This perhaps explains why the studs sheared off up post, they'd been tightened way beyond spec because they had antisieze on them, nullifying any attempt to correctly torque them up.
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
Years ago we used to buy 4 litre cans of Galvafroid, maybe 10 at a time, to repaint metal structural stuff at work. Each can weighed around 10 kilos at least...and i remember it was around £80 for 4 litres around ...oooh, 1990 ish
They stopped doing it in 4 litres and switched to 2 litres, it was that expensive....and yes, heavy
OP
OP
Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
Not so much DIY, but the mobile dent man is tickling the one tiny blemish from the C70s flanks as we speak.
D
Deleted member 26715
Guest
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
I seem to remember there was a lot of plastic in them, I also remember that the cam chains were likely to self destruct.
