Car D.I.Y.

[DRM]

I think i remarked on this up post...i can't say i'm absolutely right but my understanding was always...
You should not use antisieze on anything that has a specific torque setting. Torque settings are calculated without any oil, antisieze etc.
The thought process is that it reduces friction so more, perhaps a lot more, tightening is required to achieve the same torque ( dry vs antisieze)

This perhaps explains why the studs sheared off up post, they'd been tightened way beyond spec because they had antisieze on them, nullifying any attempt to correctly torque them up.

My understanding too, but copperslip on the rear of the wheel yes, it’s no fun belting a Transit Connect rear wheel with a lump hammer in order to persuade wheel and flat tyre to get off the hub Whilst it’s wobbling on the Ford supplied Jack for added fun

 

[Deleted member 26715]

I seem to remember there was a lot of plastic in them, I also remember that the cam chains were likely to self destruct.

Once had a mate with a C90, he was riding in front & suddenly the back wheel locked up & he slid to a stop, the engine was locked up. Asked when he last checked the oil level his response was "You have to check the oil level?" We let it cool about 20 minutes & then it would kick over, went to the local car place & bought some oil, filled it up & it started. He ran it for several more years & another 20K miles before selling it onto somebody else who ran it for several years.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

Once had a mate with a C90, he was riding in front & suddenly the back wheel locked up & he slid to a stop, the engine was locked up. Asked when he last checked the oil level his response was "You have to check the oil level?" We let it cool about 20 minutes & then it would kick over, went to the local car place & bought some oil, filled it up & it started. He ran it for several more years & another 20K miles before selling it onto somebody else who ran it for several years.

I had a similar experience with a family member with a small two stroke, I can't remember the make now but it was one that you add the oil to the fuel when you topped up it didn't have a seperate oil tank, it packed in when they were coming to see us, it turned out it had a whiskered plug and took a few minutes to sort out, but I was talking to them while i did it and when i mentioned oil the response was "you have to put oil in it?" I treated them to a bottle of two stroke oil and explained what they needed to do when topping up.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

I had a similar experience with a family member with a small two stroke, I can't remember the make now but it was one that you add the oil to the fuel when you topped up it didn't have a seperate oil tank, it packed when they were coming to see us, it turned out it had a whiskered plug and took a few minutes to sort out, but I was talking to them while i did it and when i mentioned oil the response was "you have to put oil in it?" I treated them to a bottle of two stroke oil and explain what they needed to do when topping up.

I ended up being bikeless, can't remember why, but another mates brother had a Bantam for belting around the garden it was a BIG garden. I borrowed the Bantam, got the lights working, took it for an MOT & ran it for a few weeks whilst I got another bike. Each night coming back from work it was normally about 8 miles on the throttle stop flat out doing 45mph, then there was a long slope down to the M1 roundabout, I had to pull the clutch & coast down the slope because if I didn't the damn thing would seize as there was no oil going through with a shut throttle. But if it did seize, I'd just pull in the clutch wait 30 seconds then drop it again to get it to break free.

 

[monkers]

My understanding too, but copperslip on the rear of the wheel yes, it’s no fun belting a Transit Connect rear wheel with a lump hammer in order to persuade wheel and flat tyre to get off the hub Whilst it’s wobbling on the Ford supplied Jack for added fun

I know this is not so possible with a flat tyre, but the way the trade get a seized on wheel to release is to slacken each wheel nut or wheel bolt by a couple of turns and drive rounds in circles increasingly vigorously until hearing a crack. Then tightening up and returning to workshop.

 

[Drago]

C70 done and the dent man did a remarkable job.

Sadly I didn't get back from the school walk in time to get it out away before the biblical thunderstorm hit and the C70 got soaked. The good news is that the rain has nearly passed and I now have a reason to give it a wipe down and a spray with ceramic detailer.

 

[fossyant]

Car was fixed on Weds eve for collection Thurs. Not cheap. New hubs and wheel bearings. As mentioned there was a fair bit of corrosion. Had to hammer the wheels off when we got it (copper slipped the hub then). Pretty sure I didn't touch the bolts with anything, just the hub surface.

There was a BMW in there as well, as the wheel garage couldn't get them off when the car was dropped in for a wheel refurb. Common problem.

 

[Adam4868]

I allways copper slip wheel nuts,never torqued a wheel nut yet.Thats on my own vehicles.
I have been stuck at the side of the road jumping on a length of scaffolding pole before though...learned my lesson.Not on one of my vehicles either.

 

[MrGrumpy]

I allways copper slip wheel nuts,never torqued a wheel nut yet.Thats on my own vehicles.
I have been stuck at the side of the road jumping on a length of scaffolding pole before though...learned my lesson.Not on one of my vehicles either.

Same never torqued ! Tight yes but never torqued and I’ve used copper slip as well . Once you have had to endure smacking wheels to get them off hubs your never don’t do it ! The biggest problem is the Kwik sh..t fitters and their ilk with the windy gun !

 

[Drago]

One should use Moly anti seize, particularly on alloy wheels else one is simply introducing a 3rd dissimilar metal which will actually promote corrosion over time.

Also copaslip type ungents can be thick enough that the wheel will sit fractionally uneven on the hub and can cause wheel wobble. Moly antiseize is a more homogeneous substance and doesn't suffer this effect.

 

[Tom B]

Strip car down to shell, have it chemical dipped, then sprayed with etch primer. Full repsray, build back up.

Or do what you suggest. To do a half decent job will take quite a few hours of prep work. The rust will be down under the black seal area also, so would require windowscreen removal to get proper access.

If only I had a big Vat and a couple of spare weeks.

The window sort of sits in a recess and the blackness isn't a seal. It's just a lovely pocket to hold water. The car has a few of them.

Is it by any chance a Mercedes of the period c2000-2005ish?

2012 Hyundai i40

 

[Bonefish Blues]

Theory kyboshed then

 

[fossyant]

If only I had a big Vat and a couple of spare weeks.

The window sort of sits in a recess and the blackness isn't a seal. It's just a lovely pocket to hold water. The car has a few of them.




2012 Hyundai i40

Blimey...

 

[Deleted member 26715]

Went out in the Mevster on Friday still had the misfire issue until about 10 miles from home where it died completely whilst waiting for the recovery truck I found a wire which may have been rubbing on an engine lifting point

The fault was a blown main ECU fuse easy repair once I could get to it, but it still left me with a P1504 OBD error, which is supposed to be the IACV which the Orange wire from above fed, so I thought it could possibly be faulty & replaced it with known good one but the error still remains, another side effect was on the MX5 they have an anti-stall feature where if you put the clutch down & put it in gear the engine revs increase, this stopped working so I figured the ECU might be fried. Got another ECU, immobiliser & key set, fitted that tonight, I now don't get the P1504 error or the clutch/gear issue, but get P1562 & P1499 errors.

I'm now really confused how I can get different errors depending on which ECU I fit.

 

[gbb]

Went out in the Mevster on Friday still had the misfire issue until about 10 miles from home where it died completely whilst waiting for the recovery truck I found a wire which may have been rubbing on an engine lifting point

View attachment 694492

View attachment 694493

The fault was a blown main ECU fuse easy repair once I could get to it, but it still left me with a P1504 OBD error, which is supposed to be the IACV which the Orange wire from above fed, so I thought it could possibly be faulty & replaced it with known good one but the error still remains, another side effect was on the MX5 they have an anti-stall feature where if you put the clutch down & put it in gear the engine revs increase, this stopped working so I figured the ECU might be fried. Got another ECU, immobiliser & key set, fitted that tonight, I now don't get the P1504 error or the clutch/gear issue, but get P1562 & P1499 errors.

I'm now really confused how I can get different errors depending on which ECU I fit.

Maybe related, maybe not but years ago I had a friend with a mid range Cavalier that developed a fault with its ECU. At the garage, they reprogrammed the ecu to use a different 'track' or circuit to circumvent the damaged one. It was explained at the time, had it been a higher spec car, all the tracks would have been in use and this get around wouldn't have been possible.
Same ecu, configured / programmed accordingly for different specs in the same model range in essence