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Fastpedaller

Über Member
Maybe not used the dugga-dugga gun? too much torque applied quickly (as opposed to a gradual increase, can be all that's required to shear the studs.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Maybe not used the dugga-dugga gun? too much torque applied quickly (as opposed to a gradual increase, can be all that's required to shear the studs.

Quite - will be awaiting the bill. Got a call over the weekend from ATS - "oh been told you want a refund". Erm no, I still need the tyres, customer services said they would pick up the repair bill, I'll be in later next week for my tyres. Please hang on !
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
Maybe not used the dugga-dugga gun? too much torque applied quickly (as opposed to a gradual increase, can be all that's required to shear the studs.

We get this a lot at work, tyre people come in, replace the tyres on a fork truck, use the windy gun, which stretches the threads, or starts the shearing process, then I turn up, as part of a service you check the torque of the wheel nuts, as the stud shear gets worse I found the nuts to not even be finger tight, you nip it up with a ratchet and lo and behold it breaks off, it’s that common I carry studs and wheel nuts round with me, always use the torque wrench to finish off
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
Today's job is to clean and grease all the caliper slider pins on the MX-5. It has a full main dealer service history but they won't have been touched in 10 years since its original brake pads aren't even half worn.

Some MX-5s of this age are getting near to scrapping because of terminal rust, but this one never sees salted roads and very rarely sees wet roads, so it should be an easy job. It's pretty clean underneath.
 

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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
The original Finnigans Hammerite was great.

Then the formula was changed and it wasn't good at all. And never seemed to properly harden and had relativrly poor adhesion.

Then a few years ago the formula was changed again, and it became good once more.
 

Adam4868

Guru
The original Finnigans Hammerite was great.

Then the formula was changed and it wasn't good at all. And never seemed to properly harden and had relativrly poor adhesion.

Then a few years ago the formula was changed again, and it became good once more.
Just painted some railings I made with Hammerite black...always seemed ok to me.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
Why ? Just curious.

I've always found that because it is so brittle, that micro-cracks happen, which allows moisture get between the hammerite and the steel - thus causing unseen rust (until the hammerite falls off in sheets!)
14 years ago I welded some exterior steel gates with steel tube provided by DC Iron (highly recommended) - After I welded them I cleaned the surface using panelwipe, and painted them with re-oxide primer, then Dulux undercoat and a satin black topcoat. I have never repainted them and they have no rust appearing at all. i think that's a good outcome and I'll stick to that method. Many years ago (about 30) I painted a bike frame using smoothright...... A cyclist from a local club (who happened to be a car painter) said "in a year or so that will fall off in sheets! " He was absolutely correct, and after it happened I asked him to paint my frame, which he did using (as I understand it) a water-based colour followed by a 2-pack lacquer. This lasted several years until the bike had an unfortunate end in a pothole.
 

Adam4868

Guru
Remember as a kid my dad asking me to bring him the tin over, I went to pick it up thinking it was just a normal paint & could hardly lift it.
You could tell who were Welders,Fabricators by their overalls covered in red lead paint when I was an apprentice,seems to be silicone nowadays !
Saying that I've covered some horrific welding in red lead....one or two up Blackpool Tower ! At least nobody's going to notice up there 😲
 
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