Turbo Club - Meet Ups / Events

[<Tommy>]

Tommy doesn't like squealing brakes as i found out on the DD

I forgot about that. They still squealing?

Not a big fan of clunky gears either as Bob found out

 

[rob01792]

1 or 2 have said they had a problem but majority no problem at all weight weenies on the sl6 disc thread
Ill give them a light sand and clean swap pads front to rear and ill get a spare set of pads incase its contaminated
Im like u there bike must be silent no irritating noise just the sound of the wheels on the tarmac

 

[<Tommy>]

1 or 2 have said they had a problem but majority no problem at all weight weenies on the sl6 disc thread
Ill give them a light sand and clean swap pads front to rear and ill get a spare set of pads incase its contaminated
Im like u there bike must be silent no irritating noise just the sound of the wheels on the tarmac

Yeah mate if you stick with it I’m sure it’ll come good. That would definitely bug me too! I now absolute zero about disc brakes to be honest. But if it was me I’d strip it back and reinstall them from scratch. Did you build the bike yourself? I was talking to a guy as I rode the other week who was on a venge vias disc. He’d just bought it and it was his first disc bike. He was talking about finding it tricky to align everything so it was all nice and square and the right distance between disc and pad. But I’ve never tinkered with discs st al so I don’t have a clue! I know you can stop calliper brake squeal by adjusting the angle of the brake shoe slightly.

I lost faith in bike shops a long time ago though. They’re normally nice guys but they work on bike stands and never test drive the bikes after doing the work. I think if it was me I’d get on youtube and start from scratch.

 

[bobinski]

I forgot about that. They still squealing?

Not a big fan of clunky gears either as Bob found out

Going to order a new ultegra rear mech. Problem went away for a few days but has reappeared. Been looked at twice and consensus is worn/damaged rear mech. May as well buy it then though preferably attached to a new bike

 

[theboxers]

1 or 2 have said they had a problem but majority no problem at all weight weenies on the sl6 disc thread
Ill give them a light sand and clean swap pads front to rear and ill get a spare set of pads incase its contaminated
Im like u there bike must be silent no irritating noise just the sound of the wheels on the tarmac

A fix for squealing brakes on cars is copper grease on the back of the pad. I don't know if that is applicable to bicycle brakes but to me it would be worth a shot. Just a thin layer don't over do it.

 

[rob01792]

Tommy it was built by local bike builder who been involed in racing for over 30 yrs still racing he hate disc brakes aswell i can take it back to him no problem but he off to the dolomites tuesday ill have a go myself tomorrow rebleed realign good clean then if still problem ill take it to him monday

 

[rob01792]

Theboxers im a bit worried of doing that as cross contamination but if all else fails ill give it ago

 

[<Tommy>]

Tommy it was built by local bike builder who been involed in racing for over 30 yrs still racing he hate disc brakes aswell i can take it back to him no problem but he off to the dolomites tuesday ill have a go myself tomorrow rebleed realign good clean then if still problem ill take it to him monday

Don’t get me wrong. Most if not all mechanics have forgotten more than I’ll ever know! It’s probably near impossible to know a bikes running smooth until you’ve put a few miles on it I guess. But once you’ve sussed how to sort it yourself it much easier to stay on top of the creaks and squeals.

I did just think of something else. I bought a tool a while ago to help get the correct shoe in for calliper brakes. Basically a piece of plastic that you sit between the break pad and brake surface to set the gap correct. While googling for the part I saw something similar for disc brakes. I’ll see if I can find it tomorrow.

 

[CXRAndy]

Going to order a new ultegra rear mech. Problem went away for a few days but has reappeared. Been looked at twice and consensus is worn/damaged rear mech. May as well buy it then though preferably attached to a new bike

That noise you had on the TOC Bob sounded like a worn cassette. The chain seemed to be jumping when applying power. How old/many miles?

 

[Breedon]

I forgot about that. They still squealing?

Not a big fan of clunky gears either as Bob found out

Yep still the same, I've recently changed the pads but I'll change the rotors as well before france and give it a good going over.

 

[Breedon]

Don’t get me wrong. Most if not all mechanics have forgotten more than I’ll ever know! It’s probably near impossible to know a bikes running smooth until you’ve put a few miles on it I guess. But once you’ve sussed how to sort it yourself it much easier to stay on top of the creaks and squeals.

I did just think of something else. I bought a tool a while ago to help get the correct shoe in for calliper brakes. Basically a piece of plastic that you sit between the break pad and brake surface to set the gap correct. While googling for the part I saw something similar for disc brakes. I’ll see if I can find it tomorrow.

Can you put the link up for that tool for the callipers sounds ideal and the disc version .
Im much like you Tommy i like to potter on my bikes, got a neat trick for putting in front derailleur cable .

 

[bobinski]

That noise you had on the TOC Bob sounded like a worn cassette. The chain seemed to be jumping when applying power. How old/many miles?

I had it checked and I was told it was fine.
I have a spare wheel with an ultegra cassette I can try out.

 

[<Tommy>]

Can you put the link up for that tool for the callipers sounds ideal and the disc version .
Im much like you Tommy i like to potter on my bikes, got a neat trick for putting in front derailleur cable .

This is the first one I got Dean. It’s the best to use as it locks in place nice and securely. Unfortunately it’s no good for rims deeper than around 40mm. But if you don’t have deep rims this is the best.

https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/tacx-t4580-brake-shoe-tuner-tool

This second one is the solution for deep rims. Nicely made and does the job just fine

https://rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/0/0/99?loc=https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1124712849?iid=162283047997

This third link is just to a page with loads of tools for disc wheels. I’d suggest anyone who has disc wheels getting all the tools needed to install and maintain them. It’ll make a big difference.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=d...=safari#scso=uid_iQomW-DpA9S8rQHz1biQBg_1:957

While we’re talking about drive trains and brake cable this next tool is brilliant. It’s called a third hand. And it maintains the tension in the cable allowing you to use both your hands to concentrate on tightening the fixing into position without worrying about losing tension. It’s expensive relative to how much you’ll use it. But it makes for a much better finished job.

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Park-Tool/BT-2-Fourth-Hand-Cable-Stretcher/H4HL

 

[rob01792]

What i use for the disc drake on the giant is a business card over the rotor to align, tyre lever to push pistons back and an adjustable spanner for rotor trueing and i have the giant spot on

 

[bobinski]

What i use for the disc drake on the giant is a business card over the rotor to align, tyre lever to push pistons back and an adjustable spanner for rotor trueing and i have the giant spot on

Rob, I never have a problem with pad alighnment on the qr Giant. I drop wheel in and squeeze brake lever to activate pads and tighten skewer and all fine.