Triban 3 Owners Club

[malcermie]

Has anyone changed their cassette? I think I could do with a higher gear on the flat but don't want to sacrifice too much at the lower end any ideas?

 

[martin122]

Has anyone changed their cassette? I think I could do with a higher gear on the flat but don't want to sacrifice too much at the lower end any ideas?

well im going to change mine for a sram pg850 cassette cos I have heard good reports about it and its light. going for 12-26 I think??

 

[malcermie]

I was thinking of maybe the 11-28?

 

[Kookas]

Thanks, I forgot to take it off. This rear light and a front, were a Decathlon freebee, it's now off the bike; my Smart lights (et al) will go on when needed.

(Spoke reflectors have also gone...)

It would be interesting if you could somehow mount lights to the seatstay and screw it into one of the eyelets, though. I think that'd be pretty secure.

 

[jifdave]

anyone know the seat clamp size?

 

[Tribanite]

the rear light isn't too bad when mounted on the seat post. I use it with a flashing moon light and it works well.

 

[simon.r]

Has anyone changed their cassette? I think I could do with a higher gear on the flat but don't want to sacrifice too much at the lower end any ideas?

Without wanting to appear sarcastic, can you up your cadence a bit instead?

If you're running a 52 x 12 (not sure if that's what the gearing is, but I doubt it's far from that), you'll be doing about 27mph at 80 rpm, or about 37mph at 110 rpm.

I struggle with this, my natural cadence seems to be about 60 rpm, but with a bit of thinking about it I can up it to 110 rpm+ (albeit for short periods)! 90rpm should be realistically achievable for most people, which will give you 30mph+. I doubt many of us could keep that speed up on the flat for very long?!

 

[ColinJ]

Without wanting to appear sarcastic, can you up your cadence a bit instead?

If you're running a 52 x 12 (not sure if that's what the gearing is, but I doubt it's far from that), you'll be doing about 27mph at 80 rpm, or about 37mph at 110 rpm.

I struggle with this, my natural cadence seems to be about 60 rpm, but with a bit of thinking about it I can up it to 110 rpm+ (albeit for short periods)! 90rpm should be realistically achievable for most people, which will give you 30mph+. I doubt many of us could keep that speed up on the flat for very long?!

I was thinking that myself!

I used to be comfortable doing about 23 mph on my singlespeed bike whose ratio was 39/15. I'm okay doing well over 30 mph (downhill!) on my Basso (top gear 52/14) and nearly 40 mph on my Cannondale (53/13).

 

[Tribanite]

as a newbie, i thought my cadence was ok, until i went cycling with a neighbour. he made me drop the gearing down and spin more. i can't see that a cassette change is required on a Triban

 

[malcermie]

Without wanting to appear sarcastic, can you up your cadence a bit instead?

If you're running a 52 x 12 (not sure if that's what the gearing is, but I doubt it's far from that), you'll be doing about 27mph at 80 rpm, or about 37mph at 110 rpm.

I struggle with this, my natural cadence seems to be about 60 rpm, but with a bit of thinking about it I can up it to 110 rpm+ (albeit for short periods)! 90rpm should be realistically achievable for most people, which will give you 30mph+. I doubt many of us could keep that speed up on the flat for very long?!

Thanks Simon,that may be the best way y natural cadence is about 60 will try to work on that

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Thanks Simon,that may be the best way y natural cadence is about 60 will try to work on that

mine is also around 60 and the best thing I did was to get a cycle computer with cadence meter, st it to show only my cadence and practice getting it faster. Now I hold around 80 pm and often find myself creeping into the 90's.... still struggle a touch up hills but that is the leg issue combined with the fact I have a pannier rack and carry a heavy D lock &/or panniers as well.

 

[malcermie]

as a newbie, i thought my cadence was ok, until i went cycling with a neighbour. he made me drop the gearing down and spin more. i can't see that a cassette change is required on a Triban

I think that may be my problem, not experienced enough on a road bike, will go out with a few experienced riders and try to copy their cadence.

 

[andyoxon]

this is what the some of the fuss over the wheels is about. I have had my bike for 4-5 months now and nearly 2,000km and my OH 5-6 months and around 1,000km... the inside of the hubs should not look like this http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/what-have-you-fettled-today.87079/post-2251210 after that amount of time. A lot of it is due to the lack of grease in the first place (seen in photo 1). Also the rear hub on my OH's bike was done up too tightly causing it the bearings to be forced together to tightly which has resulted in bearing & cone damage (rusty, irregular surface on bearing & cone so they don't move around as freely as they should do) and on my rear hub they were not done up tightly enough so I now have a rear hub knock which is caused by too much movement (some sideways movement of wheel despite being held in place tightly enough by QR skewer). the damage to my OH's rear wheel is not too expensive to repair and easily done. mine unfortuantly is much worse and will result in needing a new axle at some point. Also a build up of grit/water and lack of grease results in the wheels not spinning as freely as they would and giving you more resistance when cycling. the result since regreasing & cleaning all the hubs on the 4 wheels (so 8 hubs in total) is that both my OH and myself are now faster than before on the same rides and not as tired which has nothing to do with fitness because of the current weather conditions take more out of you than fitness gives you (we cycle a lot normally anyway). Hope that explains it. You will need a 15mm & 17mm cone spanner (flat spanner), some youtube vidoes/reading material for explanation, white/lithium grease and potentially new bearings (front & rear bearings are different). It is something a LBS should be able to do for you quite easily and cheaply - less than 30mins work for an experienced bike mechanic. I took about 2 hours for the 8 hubs, but it was the first time I had done anything like that and ours were a mess to say the least. (oh and cotton wool buds, tissues and a very understanding partner or somewhere to work in are a must... don't drop the bearings!)

I've just regreased my front wheel bearings. 10 loose bearings each side, and I noticed some areas of clear grease (not tht much) - so smeared all bearings with some lithium grease. Just a question about the cone and lock nut tightening (its been a while). The cone nut I set so it was just tight enough for there to be no side to side movement in the axle, and the outer lock just did finger tight. Sound about right. Same with the rear wheel?

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

I've just regreased my front wheel bearings. 10 loose bearings each side, and I noticed some areas of clear grease (not tht much) - so smeared all bearings with some lithium grease. Just a question about the cone and lock nut tightening (its been a while). The cone nut I set so it was just tight enough for there to be no side to side movement in the axle, and the outer lock just did finger tight. Sound about right. Same with the rear wheel?

I think they are meant to be more than finger tight - otherwise I could see potential for movement of cone nut slackening off, I know the when I undid mine they were much tighter than finger tight... rear wheel the same, but more fiddly... (I'm no expert on this matter, it was the first time I had done them as well).

 

[roadrash]

see here

http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

for the best advice