Triban 3 Owners Club

[jifdave]

http://www.parker-international.co.uk/21817/Shimano-Claris-2400-2403-8-sp-STI-Levers.html £80 on parkers or i have a code jazloc gave me that i'll not be likely to use that expires very soon reducing wiggle down to £80.... yours or anyone elses if @jazloc doesnt mind

 

[Steve Donovan]

I have the existing factory wheels on my T3.
I've seen some shimano r501 wheel sets for circa £70. My friend has recommended the Mavic Aksiums, which the 2010 versions are available new for £136.

As a newbie to cycling, am I likely to notice 'double the difference' with the Mavics which are double the price ?

 

[jifdave]

I have the existing factory wheels on my T3.
I've seen some shimano r501 wheel sets for circa £70. My friend has recommended the Mavic Aksiums, which the 2010 versions are available new for £136.

As a newbie to cycling, am I likely to notice 'double the difference' with the Mavics which are double the price ?

There would likely be a difference mostly in stiffness, a little in rolling resistance and a few grams. But not double the difference

 

[Steve Donovan]

There would likely be a difference mostly in stiffness, a little in rolling resistance and a few grams. But not double the difference

Thanks Dave. I can just about justify the shimano wheels but the Mavics are just outside my budget.
Am I likely to notice a difference from factory wheels to the shimanos ? I hear the wheels are a weak point of the T3. A couple of months ago I had a hub bearing fail after just 70 miles.

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Thanks Dave. I can just about justify the shimano wheels but the Mavics are just outside my budget.
Am I likely to notice a difference from factory wheels to the shimanos ? I hear the wheels are a weak point of the T3. A couple of months ago I had a hub bearing fail after just 70 miles.

yes you should notice a difference. I certainly have moving over to Fulcrum Racing 7's. Much smoother, much better rolling and stiffer wheels. I understand the shimanos you mention should see the same. the stock wheels feel grainy and rough after experincing any other wheels.

 

[jifdave]

Thanks Dave. I can just about justify the shimano wheels but the Mavics are just outside my budget.
Am I likely to notice a difference from factory wheels to the shimanos ? I hear the wheels are a weak point of the T3. A couple of months ago I had a hub bearing fail after just 70 miles.

Any bike under £900 typically comes with poor wheels(canyon the exception)

as satnav says the difference will be huge.

Even servicing the hubs of the factory wheels makes a huge difference. But new wheels will feel much much better

 

[Widge]

I have the existing factory wheels on my T3.
I've seen some shimano r501 wheel sets for circa £70. My friend has recommended the Mavic Aksiums, which the 2010 versions are available new for £136.

As a newbie to cycling, am I likely to notice 'double the difference' with the Mavics which are double the price ?

The difference between the Factory wheels and Shimano 500/501s is pretty amazing. My factory wheels never completely conked out on me, but I was shocked by how much smoother hubs where on my 501's in comparison. All-in-all, a much nicer experience. You COULD spend time and/or money stripping and fettling the original wheels but I'm sure that Mavics and other slightly more upmarket wheelsets will also prove instantly gratifying.(and probably lighter than the Shimanos).....but suspect the law of diminishing returns creeping in as you go up in price from there?

 

[Kies]

I have Shimano rs510's on my T3. So smooth but I find my chainset is noisy now. Anyone experienced this after changing wheels.
The gears change fine, but I may need to fine tune them

 

[Widge]

I have Shimano rs510's on my T3. So smooth but I find my chainset is noisy now. Anyone experienced this after changing wheels.
The gears change fine, but I may need to fine tune them

Well yes........now you mention it............there IS quite a lot of whirring and chain clatter going on. I changed wheels, cassette and chain all at the same time, and while there is no obvious mis-indexing going on as far as I can see, the drive is not as stealthy sounding as it had been with the original equipment .

I don't know which element of the change has caused the increase in noise - and know that some level of base-level noise is to be expected (we are, after all, talking about chains and cogs and mechanical activity)...but admit I was surprised by it all and can't really put my finger on it. The wheels themselves, however, DO roll far smoother than the old ones, and I presume the constant ticking and whirring is just a trademark of shimano wheels? Possibly??

w

 

[Deleted member 20519]

I fixed my crank clicking my removing the BB, cleaning it and then giving everything a fresh coat of grease. Unfortunately now there's a deep rumbling noise if I pedal backwards, a bit strange but I don't think it's a big issue.

 

[Kies]

Well yes........now you mention it............there IS quite a lot of whirring and chain clatter going on. I changed wheels, cassette and chain all at the same time, and while there is no obvious mis-indexing going on as far as I can see, the drive is not as stealthy sounding as it had been with the original equipment .

I don't know which element of the change has caused the increase in noise - and know that some level of base-level noise is to be expected (we are, after all, talking about chains and cogs and mechanical activity)...but admit I was surprised by it all and can't really put my finger on it. The wheels themselves, however, DO roll far smoother than the old ones, and I presume the constant ticking and whirring is just a trademark of shimano wheels? Possibly??

w

Check your front derailleur is absolutely parallel with the big front cog. Mine was out and no matter what I tried, couldn't get a quiet mech. Took it to my lbs and he spotted it straight away. My Triban is now as quiet as the best bike. So looking forward to putting some winter miles on the T3 - should be fast as it's RED!

 

[Widge]

Hi Kies.........

Thanks for yr reply.
I have thoroughly checked the front mech and am pretty sure it is abso;utely dialed. No rubbing in any gear either on the stand or the road and eyeballing it - everything is hunky-dory (amazingly!)
The 'noise' seems to be a question of chain clatter over the chainrings and cassette and a bit of grind and clank from the rear when dropping a cog.........nothing to lose sleep over - just more than I would expect or hope for. Maybe some chains are smoother than others? I'll live with it and maybe try a spanky KMC 'X' chain some time soon.

Either that - or smother everything with Lard!!

best

w

 

[oiljam]

Just fitted a deda zero 1 onto my wifes Triban 3. We've taken it from 100mm to 80mm then to a 60mm Deda. Its definitely not going any shorter or it'll be a comedy circus bike I'm sure. Looks the part and only £18 from wiggle. Bargain

 

[Kies]

I have a deda on my Triban 3, sets the bike off nicely. Spent a few hours this evening fitting race blade mk2 mudguards.

The rear guard went on pretty easily and doesn't rub, but the front having only one fix point does move a little when the cockpit is swung quickly. Went for a spin tonight, with the cree T6 on and it felt good. My winter bike is ready

 

[oiljam]

Yeah it looks great. I might even get a 100mm for my triban 5 as I'm getting numb hands, maybe from stretching. It currently has a 110mm stem.

I have fitted sks raceblades long on my 5 which were a dream to fit and can be removed very easily when not required, just leaving mounts under the brake blocks. I'd definitely recommend them.

Here are our two Tribans...