Triban 3 Owners Club

[Harry_Palmer79]

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/cc-arran-cycle-sat-6th-july-2013.130633/page-25

I had an accident at the weekend on my Triban 3, ended up in a ditch going from 50mph to 0 in a short space of time. The front and back wheels are buckled but my main concern is there are lumps on the underside of the top and bottom tubes, with wrinkling to the paint on top. I can't remember how they felt before the crash, so I was wondering if any of the Triban 3 owners could let me know if the tubes on their frames are completely straight up to the welds or if they have small bumps at these points? Any advice greatly appreciated...

 

[mrandmrspoves]

The frames are quite tidy.....it sounds like yours is a write off :-(

 

[Harry_Palmer79]

Damn, that's what I was worried about

 

[antnee]

But as long as your ok? your bike can be replaced though perhaps costly it still can be done whereas your probably a one off model? and can't be replaced BTW 50mph is some speed you were very lucky it seems.

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

@antnee at the very least you are probably going to need to remove the pedal on the drive side. the outer chainring will come off easily over the pedal, after than it gets more difficult. removing the crank arm entirely makes life much easier.
As for bent teeth - I hope I am not stating the obvious here (and sorry if I am), but you have taken into account that at least one of the teeth has a different profile to allow for gear changes... and yes the black finish wears off exposing the metal - that's normal on the cheaper end stuff. Can you photo the bent teeth?

@DazC - mad as this sounds, check your saddle clamp tightness and also headset & handlebar clamp - mine work loose after a while and creak. Otherwise it could be the Bottom bracket, but that needs a crank arm remover and a BB remover tool.

 

[antnee]

Thanks Sat Nav

No you aren’t stating the obvious i.e. the chainwheel tooth (to facilitate changing) being bent its something that I hadn’t thought about, though shouldn’t the 30tooth chainwheel be similar?


On looking at the 39-toothed chain wheel with the chain on it and revolving backwards it just seems that probably only two of the teeth on the middle chainwheel are bent.

Well on looking at it again this morning I see that it’s the bottom of the valley were the link of the chain sits that seems bent inwards towards the smallest 30 chainwheel would this be normal? I’ve taken a couple of pictures and now see why this could have happened as one of the rivets that holds on the bit of spacing steel/alloy have come off. You see can’t really see the bent part of the chainwheel even in the photos

I know when it happened now as well as I was coming up to a roundabout on my century ride and found I couldn’t pedal only in half pedals revolutions. Though when I got off and looked could find nothing wrong, I presume now that it had come out somewhere on the road probably.

Also it seems that the 39-toothed chainring is the only one with these riveted spacing blocks on it I am probably being thick here but are these to do with changing up and down?

And I see now that’s its just a case of undoing the 5 Allan bolts to get the chain wheels of without disturbing the crank assembly

Once agin thanks for your reply

Regards Antnee

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

to be honest, it looks OK, I don't think 1 broken tooth is an issue (not 100% sure on that). I would be looking at the front derailuer setup and getting the gears re-indexed because that is a lot of chain catching that I am seeing which is most likely from bad gear changes. what kind of mileage have you done on it? I ask because I have covered more than 3,000 miles on mine and this is what they look like now. (now you have me considering if my chain rings need replacing, comparing them to my OH's - if you look carefully at mine you can see that the U is not symmetrical and that the chain is most likely catching on the rivets which probably means I need to change mine!)

My OH has not covered anywhere near as much, probably less than 1,000 miles and his look new - though needing a good clean - I refuse to now, he just moans at me if I clean his bike!

 

[antnee]

Iv'e done about 2060 on mine and Itend to spend a lot of time on the middle chain ring I see what you mean about the chain rub marks compared to yours I will set to and adjust gears tomorrow though was comtemplating going out but will have to tinker with this now Thanks for reply Regards Ant

 

[DazC]

@DazC - mad as this sounds, check your saddle clamp tightness and also headset & handlebar clamp - mine work loose after a while and creak. Otherwise it could be the Bottom bracket, but that needs a crank arm remover and a BB remover tool.

Thanks, sounds like I need to go get myself the toolkit on sale at Aldi!

 

[Steve Donovan]

Hi. I'm looking to upgrade my tyres from the original factory fit Btwins. I'm after something with some puncture resistance, and I'm looking at something like the Rubino pro 3, or the Conti GP 4 seasons. Most of my riding is general commuting and the like.
Any advice regarding these tyres would be appreciated (and of course any other options you think of).
Cheers
Steve

 

[Kies]

Vittoria Rubino 23c in red/black. Perfect!!

 

[Steve Donovan]

You must have been reading my mind !
They look pretty good in red/black.

Would you say they are comparable/better than the contis ?

 

[Kies]

Haven't tried conti's so cannot comment. Having put the rubino's on my Defy and completed a 107 mile charity ride, with no issues and good cornering, I can thoroughly recommend them.

 

[Steve Donovan]

Cheers Kies. I'm just starting out in cycling and just after something good and reliable.

 

[Widge]

I changed my tyres early on to Rubino Pro Folders and they have been very good. (Lighter AND red 'n black - plus no fairy visits for the last 800 miles!) Recommended.