Triban 3 Owners Club

[jifdave]

should be an 12-25 or 12-26 (whatever everyone else had, mine was slightly different) but if you rub the cassette clean (find the first one and follow in a line) you will find each one is stamped with what it is followed by a T...
Quite a few of us have fitted 11-28 cassettes now which have been great (and those extra 2 teeth really do make a difference), some needing adjustment, some without, but the existing derailuer is only meant to take upto a 26T and I am certain will not go passed a 28T given I have the 11-28T (SRAM PG850) and have had to adjust the clearance of the derailuer to max (B screw). Good habits also dictate a new chain when the cassette is replaced, no matter what, though some don't, I would recommend it as it will rule out any issues with chain slipping later on leading to an easier diagnosis of indexing issues after a few weeks which I experienced.

also went 11-28.... found I needed to change the rear deraileur as imwasnt happy it fitted well.

 

[Tom Hooper]

also went 11-28.... found I needed to change the rear deraileur as imwasnt happy it fitted well.

what rear deraieur did you go for?

 

[jifdave]

I bought a tiagra but anything long cage would do it

 

[antnee]

Thanks for all the advice on the cassette sizing. So I think that what I will go for is the 11-28 sizing as there are some mean hills on the Western end of the Mendips and not tackled Cheddar gorge yet! As to the wheel rim should I buy a pair .i.e front and back or is it false economy to just buy the one ( what I'm trying say is does it work out any more expensive just buying the rear one its own). Also not having the cassette removel tools will have to pay more as will have to buy wheels, or wheel and cassette plus new chain from the LBS and get them to fit the cassette to the new rim as well as get the slight twist out of the exsisting rim I suppose I shoud price up the cassette removal tool and chain wrench plus the wheels before getting a quote from the LBS perhaps? As its bound to be a minimum charge of about £40 just for labour.

I also see that a new rear Deraileur with a longer cage might be needed when you say longer cage I presume thats the bit which actively moves the hanger with the deraileur jockey wheels housed within. I can probably do the job myself as am sure its not that difficult , though setting up the gearing shift is something that take a bit of time
Can any body sugest which brand tools (chain wrench and cassette removal tool) to buy bearing in mind that I'm working on a limited buget
Many thank Antnee

 

[jifdave]

I have the cheapest halfords set. Its about £35 and includes cassette removal tool

 

[antnee]

Thanks jifdave. So just been looking at the cost of wheels and cassettes and see that cassette will be about £20.00 + and it seems that I will need perhaps a spacer to take up the slack in the cassette fixing? So a pair of wheels will be a big outlay. But which ones to buy is the question cheapest fulcrum or the Shimano any ideas any one? Sorry to keep picking your brians but am still getting back in to cycling again Regards Antnee

 

[jifdave]

Id say if your just getting back into it use the standard wheels.

If you take it back to decathlon for a service they'll take the buckle out (wheel truing) for £10 maybe even free if theyre feeling in a good mood

 

[antnee]

As I live some considerable (here by the mud) way from any of their stores going to Reading or the Black Country shops isn't really a viable option. So I suppose it going to be the LBS or DIY, though when you say "use the standard wheels" I take it you mean Decathlon wheels? or will any lower end cost 700mm x 23mm rims do? Many thanks for your replys.

 

[Tom Hooper]

i have found some brakes but cant decide what ones, any one know the difference between these two?

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...s-road-shimano-sora-9-3500-brakes/shimbrar412

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...kes-road-shimano-r451-57mm-brakes/shimbrar343

 

[DudeManchoo72]

Well sorted the bearings and got both wheels running nice and smooth. 3 and a half miles later all was going well on my commute to work when I clipped a wet grass verge and following a brilliant impression of superman, had my first triban wipeout. Scuffed all the bar tape on the left side aswell as the rubber cover on the hood. Dusted myself down and after laughing at a driver laughing at me run into the car in front of her (karma is a wonderful thing), I proceeded on my commute only to pick up a puncture passing a smashed up bus stop. Gave in and called for someone from work to pick me up. Managed to pick up a couple of specialized tubes and a pump to carry with me in the event it happens again. Now after the return trip home am now nursing a very sore tennis ball shaped right knee.....still a top bike though!

 

[jonny jeez]

I'm getting a clicking sound from my bottom bracket when I give it some stick up a climb..........or it could be one of the the pedals.......only clocked up about 120 miles since I got it..........I'll have a tinker and see what I find.

I'm not a triban owner (although I have convinced a coupke of mates to join the club).

the clicking noise is most likely your pedals, does it ocur when one of your pedals is at 11.00 o clock, just as you start to put on pressure.

take the pedals off, stip out any grease on the threads and on the crank arm (in the hole that the pedals screw into) with GT85 or the like (avoid WD 40) and then re-grease the threads (internal and external) and refit. The clicking will stay away for a few hundred miles til the grease dries out once more.

 

[simon.r]

i have found some brakes but cant decide what ones, any one know the difference between these two?

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...s-road-shimano-sora-9-3500-brakes/shimbrar412

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...kes-road-shimano-r451-57mm-brakes/shimbrar343

The second link is a 'long drop' brake. See here for more info. I can't say for certain, but I'd be surprised if they'd fit the T3.

 

[Ozzrahog]

I'm not a triban owner (although I have convinced a coupke of mates to join the club).

the clicking noise is most likely your pedals, does it ocur when one of your pedals is at 11.00 o clock, just as you start to put on pressure.

take the pedals off, stip out any grease on the threads and on the crank arm (in the hole that the pedals screw into) with GT85 or the like (avoid WD 40) and then re-grease the threads (internal and external) and refit. The clicking will stay away for a few hundred miles til the grease dries out once more.

I had the same symptom on my T5 after a couple of hundred miles and taking the peddles on and off and re greasing did the trick

 

[jonny jeez]

I'm getting a clicking sound from my bottom bracket when I give it some stick up a climb..........or it could be one of the the pedals.......only clocked up about 120 miles since I got it..........I'll have a tinker and see what I find.

oh and ps, if you have trouble getting the pedals off try this.

point the crank arm down to the ground, vertically. Take the pedal spanner or Allen key (depending on your pedals) and set it as close to horizontal/parrallel to the ground as the position of the nut will allow (in front of or behind the pedal depending on which pedal you are taking off...reverse threads and all that, if you're not sure the pedals often have a direction indicator on the shaft by the nut) then push the spanner to the floor. This will stop the crank winding around and winding you up.

Sorry if all this is obvious I'm not sure how often you've tried this.

 

[DudeManchoo72]

I'm not a triban owner (although I have convinced a coupke of mates to join the club).

the clicking noise is most likely your pedals, does it ocur when one of your pedals is at 11.00 o clock, just as you start to put on pressure.

take the pedals off, stip out any grease on the threads and on the crank arm (in the hole that the pedals screw into) with GT85 or the like (avoid WD 40) and then re-grease the threads (internal and external) and refit. The clicking will stay away for a few hundred miles til the grease dries out once more.

Thanks the info.....yes just as I'm about to push down on the right pedal....seems to be getting worse and does it when cruising along on the flats now.....but I'll give your tip a try.....cheers