Trailers & 'BWSOW's

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Jameshow

Veteran
What you need is something better...... One that has ample headroom but folds so you can see behind and the (albeit small) weight is down low for when it's behind the car. It could be yours if the price is right (a lot less than 23k :laugh: )

IMG-20240911-WA0008.jpg


First purchase 750kg suspension units and wheels.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
View attachment 744974

First purchase 750kg suspension units and wheels.

Crikey- you're building aheavy one then. My folding one is 198Kg. I'm in Norfolk (UK) if you want to see how it's made, or I'll be at the Newark Kit Car Festival next weekend 21st/22nd
 

Jameshow

Veteran
Crikey- you're building aheavy one then. My folding one is 198Kg. I'm in Norfolk (UK) if you want to see how it's made, or I'll be at the Newark Kit Car Festival next weekend 21st/22nd

No they were s/h NOS and were half the price if new ones.

I don't think it will weigh more than 250kg leaving a 500kg payload.

We haven't finalised the design yet might even go for a square back and rear opening stable door.

I'm loosing my van so a trailer might be useful for my men's shed work in which case a large opening door might work better.

Also in not keen on the American outdoor kitchen idea better being able to cook inside imho.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
No they were s/h NOS and were half the price if new ones.

I don't think it will weigh more than 250kg leaving a 500kg payload.

We haven't finalised the design yet might even go for a square back and rear opening stable door.

I'm loosing my van so a trailer might be useful for my men's shed work in which case a large opening door might work better.

Also in not keen on the American outdoor kitchen idea better being able to cook inside imho.

If the suspension units are rated a lot higher than the gross weight it will bounce around - the suspension units should be used 'near the limit' to be effective. The units I used are specifically aimed at lower weight trailer - Peak dynamics R-flex fully bonded. They provide damping on rebound as well as compression
 

Hicky

Guru
@Hicky
The build-quality means no 'biscuit-tinning' like mine (or other cheaper trailers)
By that, I mean that it's twisted laterally, as happens if you get a square tin & twist in in opposing directions

The next size up unbraked Brenderup (1205?) would be nice to own, as it's 6'6" x 4'

You do notice a little lateral movement of the rears are off and the contents are rammed in, very little though in fairness.
I originally wanted the 1205 but couldn’t find a double height one that wasn’t stupid money.
The same goes for the erde 193, I did look at upgrading my 101 pre covid and a 193 plus abs lid,bars and bike rack was 1.1k from indespension, it’s a fortune now.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
Hoping to build a teardrop caravan for when my van goes something like this....

https://www.vistabule.com/teardrop-trailers/vistabule/

If you want inspiration the Teardrops and tint travel trailers will give you lots:-
tnttt.com
However, If you want something more practical (ok it doesn't look quite as pretty, but it does look 'aero') my one scores better.
That's why plenty of teardrops are for sale as users get tired of hitting their heads! :banghead:
If you can work with glassfibre and wood one like mine can be made in about 100 hours.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
I posted similar last year, and i'm hoping someone may have a solution...........

I just saved these trailer bearings :blush:. After a wet journey last week, I've eventually got around to checking the hub bearings. It's worrying that such damage can be done by only about 20 miles in the rain! See attached photo. This was the first journey since cleaning/adjusting them last year. After removing all the black grease. What grease is best to use in these? I've just used beige multi purpose with the thought that marine/waterproof probably won't help if water is getting in (the oil seals on the inner bearings don't seem to stop the water. My go-to waterproof grease Silkolene RG2 would be much too viscous I think...... which brings me to the next 'issue'. They are tapered roller bearings, adjusted by castellated nut and split pin, so it's possible the bearings can run around the stub axle. I'd expect a spacer tube between the inner and outer bearings (with suitable shims) so the castellated nut can be set to clamp the inner races so they don't turn on the stub axle, but the bearings run freely. Any advice is appreciated.

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  • A trailer supplier has suggested some 'sealed bearings (knott) but they are for a different size of stub axle :banghead:
  • I have (since the last journey) had to centre pop each axle to ensure the inner bearings don't spin on the axle. These really are a poor design, but appear to be all that's available for a one inch stub axle.
  • I suspect changing to a 'sealed' bearings (apart from new stubs and the cost) will result in water getting in and instead of cleaning the bearings after a wet journey I'll be having to replace the sealed bearings!
  • Anyone have a solution?
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
Just a thought, is it worthwhile taking the shell out and going to a bearing specialist and see if they can size it against a sealed stainless steel bearing, I've used such things in electric pallet trucks used in a meat processing factory, they put a cleaning agent down on the floor that is off the scale alkaline, standard steel in this horrible permanently wet enviroment last about 10 to 14 days, stainless steel lasted a tad over a month
 
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