Secondhand Raleigh Junior Rigid MTB: lemon or worth a punt?

[Reynard]

This depends on what space you're referring to. You are quite likely to have to bend it to 135mm, but if that's no biggie, then the wheel is likely to be capable of 7/8/9 speed, so the world is your tasty mollusc. But 7-speed is likely to be the least number. I still have those 8-spd shifters which will do V and other brake types...

Careful choice of 8-speed cassette would give you a really nicely spaced 12-30 or up to 34 if the RD can handle it, but 30 should be fine, I would have thought...

The rear dropouts are 130mm, so bending them to get a new wheel in isn't an issue, I don't think. I was thinking more about chain fouling, what with it being such a small frame.

I had been thinking of an 11-28 7-speed matched to a 44-32-22 triple, which would give me a similar range to the hybrid, but if an 8-speed cassette will fit, then there won't be such big gaps. It's still at the planning stage - that's why I was trying to get the bike up and running so I would have a better idea of what was really needed.

Those 8-speed shifters do sound nice. And then I could keep the existing cantis, as there's nothing wrong with them. Other than the fact that they could do with a bit of a clean.

The wheelset I'm after is currently listed as out of stock, which is a bit of a pain. But I think I'll get the wheels and tyres and then just slowly go from there.

 

[DCBassman]

@Reynard , I remembered, if you do go V-brake, that I also have a set of 3x8 EF28 Acera brake/shifters, which would be nearer to period-correct, ie mid-90s-ish. The 8-speed r/h shifter is NOS, still fitted with a cable inner. The l/h is from the Claud Butler Uracco MTB I did up for my younger (37 next month, yikes!) son. If you stay 7-speed, then I also have the 7-speed r/h shifter from the CB.

 

[Reynard]

@Reynard , I remembered, if you do go V-brake, that I also have a set of 3x8 EF28 Acera brake/shifters, which would be nearer to period-correct, ie mid-90s-ish. The 8-speed r/h shifter is NOS, still fitted with a cable inner. The l/h is from the Claud Butler Uracco MTB I did up for my younger (37 next month, yikes!) son. If you stay 7-speed, then I also have the 7-speed r/h shifter from the CB.

Mmmm, I'm not terribly worried about period correct, more about finding something that works on the bike and works for me. Really appreciate the offers & advice etc.

Going from the Altus shifters on the hybrid to the twist shifters on my rather short test ride was a real culture shock. Not the number of gears, just the actual shifters themselves. They're horrible to use and would be a nightmare in the cold / dark / wet.

N.B. the Altus shifters on the Chartres are separate to the brake levers as opposed to integrated units.

 

[Reynard]

Well, a 6mm allen key has been acquired.

Actually, I bought a proper set of long-handled vanadium steel keys. So the multitool can go back into the road bike bar bag where it belongs, and hopefully I'll be able to wrestle this stem bolt into submission.

Well, that's the theory, anyway...

 

[Reynard]

Theory and practice gelled together really rather nicely.

The right tool really makes all the difference, and the bolt came undone pretty easily. The stem wasn't stuck either. It came out ok, but it's been put aside for a thorough clean, as it's really dirty.

And the state of the tube, fork, bearings and everything else is a damn good advert for why mudguards are the best thing since sliced bread for keeping that part of the bike in good order. I actually had to resort to taking a small chisel, and a pick along with copious amounts of WD40 (I might buy shares in the stuff!) to shift the solid mixture of old grease, dirt and goodness knows what else. That was truly bleurgh.

The headset has probably not been touched since the bike was built, but again, like the BB, was in surprisingly good nick. Nothing was damaged or pitted etc, but I will put some new bearings in at some point.

Anyways, everything has been scrubbed clean and reassembled with very generous quantities of grease. All in all, a rather satisfying afternoon's tinkering.

 

[Gunk]

More photos please!

 

[Reynard]

Am looking at getting these guards for the bike btw - I think they'll do rather nicely.

https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/rowdy-set/

 

[Gunk]

I've found with plastic mudguards, start with a strong hot soapy water mix to get the mud off, then dry them off and use a rag with WD40 to remove the remaining oil and grease.

 

[Gunk]

Am looking at getting these guards for the bike btw - I think they'll do rather nicely.

https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/rowdy-set/

bit blingy

 

[Reynard]

More photos please!

Hmm, not much visual change since I last posted pics. And handling a camera with greasy paws is not a good idea. DAMHIKT

 

[Reynard]

I've found with plastic mudguards, start with a strong hot soapy water mix to get the mud off, then dry them off and use a rag with WD40 to remove the remaining oil and grease.

The bike didn't have any mudguards, and I don't think it's ever had any, judging by all the crud in the headset.

bit blingy

Maybe, but they'll fit. The e-cheapo set that's on my old 24" wheel MTB don't.

 

[raleighnut]

Theory and practice gelled together really rather nicely.

The right tool really makes all the difference, and the bolt came undone pretty easily. The stem wasn't stuck either. It came out ok, but it's been put aside for a thorough clean, as it's really dirty.

And the state of the tube, fork, bearings and everything else is a damn good advert for why mudguards are the best thing since sliced bread for keeping that part of the bike in good order. I actually had to resort to taking a small chisel, and a pick along with copious amounts of WD40 (I might buy shares in the stuff!) to shift the solid mixture of old grease, dirt and goodness knows what else. That was truly bleurgh.

The headset has probably not been touched since the bike was built, but again, like the BB, was in surprisingly good nick. Nothing was damaged or pitted etc, but I will put some new bearings in at some point.

Anyways, everything has been scrubbed clean and reassembled with very generous quantities of grease. All in all, a rather satisfying afternoon's tinkering.

A good thing to stop stems and seatposts from sticking is 'Petroleum Jelly' not as a lubricant but as a coating, some greases won't stop galvanic corrosion but good ol Vaseline does, likewise when fitting pedals, freewheels and BBs 'Copaslip' is the best product.

 

[Reynard]

That's useful to know re the vaseline @raleighnut - thanks for the heads up.

Next task I think is to strip, clean and rebuild the brake calipers, as I plan on re-using them for now.

Although I will replace the bars. I've had a better look at them, and the circular gouges in the metal are rather deeper than the materials engineer in me is entirely happy with. Any crack or other weakness can propagate rather quickly, and I really don't want to hit a bump or a hole and end up with snapped bars.

 

[12boy]

I only use organically grown, non-GMO, locally sourced, organic chicken fat, strained through Egyptian long staple cotton gauze, myself. Actually copper antiseize compound. I'd prefer some SKS fenders, not spendy, light and durable. The ones you referenced don't look right for your bike in my opinion, but it is your bike. Enjoyed hearing how you prevailed over the stem....

 

[Reynard]

I only use organically grown, non-GMO, locally sourced, organic chicken fat, strained through Egyptian long staple cotton gauze, myself. Actually copper antiseize compound. I'd prefer some SKS fenders, not spendy, light and durable. The ones you referenced don't look right for your bike in my opinion, but it is your bike. Enjoyed hearing how you prevailed over the stem....

Isn't that a waste of good schmalz?

Anyway, re the mudguards, it's the same story as with tyres and wheels - there's far less choice for 24" wheeled bikes as there is for their bigger-wheeled counterparts. The only other SKS option for 24" wheels are the long ones for a hybrid / touring bike, which would look silly on a MTB. Again, am still in the "just looking" stage, there's not a great deal I can do now until the wheelset I want becomes available again.

Mind, anything that stops crud going into the headset and transmission, and up my butt and back will be fine though. It'll be my winter bike, so some form of guards are a must.