Car D.I.Y.

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Pale Rider

Legendary Member
I wonder if one of the reasons wheels stick is they are not removed during a routine service.

The first time a wheel is removed from a new car is likely to be when the tyre wears out, which could easily be five years for a low mileage motorist.

Some manufacturers specify a change of brake fluid every two years, but that is likely to be ignored by some owners, or not done by an independent who doesn't work to the maker's schedule.
 

Jody

Stubborn git
I wonder if one of the reasons wheels stick is they are not removed during a routine service.

I remember an instance of steel wheels being unable to remove from a 10,000 mile Passat at it's first service.
VW blamed the end user and we had to argue that it can't be their fault as the wheels had never been off. In the end VW caved and paid for a new set of wheels
 

monkers

Veteran
I wonder if one of the reasons wheels stick is they are not removed during a routine service.

The first time a wheel is removed from a new car is likely to be when the tyre wears out, which could easily be five years for a low mileage motorist.

Some manufacturers specify a change of brake fluid every two years, but that is likely to be ignored by some owners, or not done by an independent who doesn't work to the maker's schedule.

The wheels stick due to galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals in the presence of water and a potential difference. A lack of servicing where the wheels are not removed is an aggravating factor.

There is competition between manufacturers to specify a regime that leads to the lower servicing costs. Owners are free to 'over service' if that's their wish. Some manufacturers specify coating the surfaces with some recommended grease, others are wary that if the grease is not applied sparingly that it will come into contact with braking services - so they specify a dry fit.

One often specified grease was polybutylcuprisyl or 'copperslip, or 'copperease' to use common trade names. Some say that since one function of the copper content is to aid the dissipation of heat energy that it will also enable some conduction of electrical energy.

The truth is that garages rarely struggle to get wheels off anything like the way owners do, and given that not so many modern cars come with spare wheels these days, it is not something that manufacturers see as much of a problem.

Personally I use a light smear of copperslip between wheel and hub since it is a grease which tends to stay where you put it. When removing wheels that are copperslipped, the grease is usually there in place and the wheel comes off easily - but the warning about leaving such a light smear that it can not come into contact with brake surfaces stands.
 
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DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
I wonder if one of the reasons wheels stick is they are not removed during a routine service.

The first time a wheel is removed from a new car is likely to be when the tyre wears out, which could easily be five years for a low mileage motorist.

Some manufacturers specify a change of brake fluid every two years, but that is likely to be ignored by some owners, or not done by an independent who doesn't work to the maker's schedule.

Every time ours goes in for a service I know the wheels have been off as I receive a video of the car on the ramp, sans wheels, the mechanic goes through a quick explanation of condition of pads & discs along with condition of pipes/flexible hoses, measurements of wear on discs and pads with vernier calipers and tread depth of all four tyres.
 

Adam4868

Guru
I only ever have older vehicles,never had new.But I've never not been able to get a wheel off,usually use copper slip for the nuts if I can be arsed.Stuck hub...remove nuts and take it for a spin on a potholed road !
As for videoing my car getting serviced...I'm still laughing at the thought of asking my mechanic.He still doesn't have a mobile.😁
 

monkers

Veteran
I only ever have older vehicles,never had new.But I've never not been able to get a wheel off,usually use copper slip for the nuts if I can be arsed.Stuck hub...remove nuts and take it for a spin on a potholed road !
As for videoing my car getting serviced...I'm still laughing at the thought of asking my mechanic.He still doesn't have a mobile.😁

May I be so bold as to offer advice? Don't remove the nuts before going for a spin unless you want a crumpled wing; just loosen them a couple of turns, and retighten after hearing the 'crack'.
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
I only ever have older vehicles,never had new.But I've never not been able to get a wheel off,usually use copper slip for the nuts if I can be arsed.Stuck hub...remove nuts and take it for a spin on a potholed road !
As for videoing my car getting serviced...I'm still laughing at the thought of asking my mechanic.He still doesn't have a mobile.😁

So long as you can trust that your mechanic does exactly what they charge for, what’s so funny about the video, it’s evidence that the works been done, that’s why they consistently win No1 dealership in the UK for quality of service & sales for the brand sold.
 

Adam4868

Guru
So long as you can trust that your mechanic does exactly what they charge for, what’s so funny about the video, it’s evidence that the works been done, that’s why they consistently win No1 dealership in the UK for quality of service & sales for the brand sold.
Yea 100% trust my mechanics...I only ever use local,never a dealership.Same for tyres use a local independent bloke.Keep the money local and support independents 😁
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
The original Finnigans Hammerite was great.

Then the formula was changed and it wasn't good at all. And never seemed to properly harden and had relativrly poor adhesion.

Then a few years ago the formula was changed again, and it became good once more.

Back in the 80s I used hammerite to paint over quite sizeable rust holes in the sills of my Metro. The thick sticky paint covered over maybe 10 or 15mm gaps quite nicely till the paint hardened. I guess I should really have done it properly using a laminate of newspaper and paint, but Hammerite alone got the job done and it passed the MOT
 
Personally I use a light smear of copperslip between wheel and hub since it is a grease which tends to stay where you put it. When removing wheels that are copperslipped, the grease is usually there in place and the wheel comes off easily - but the warning about leaving such a light smear that it can not come into contact with brake surfaces stands.
There was a good coating when I took the punctured tyre off, from the wifes 'Works Van' (Yaris hybrid)

IMG_6239.jpeg

IMG_6233.jpeg
 
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