OP
OP
star84
Regular
- Location
- southend,Essex
nice one hacienda..thnx
where should i start from.
- Thread starter star84
- Start date
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Pjays666
Über Member
- Location
- Burnley lancs
I find the cycle meter app for the I phone is great if u have I phone. Tells you speed distance calories etc and is free so maybe have a look
Black Country Ste
Senior Member
- Location
- West Midlands
Don't worry too much about bike computers. I use Endomondo on my old phone to log my rides and stick it in my pocket. I'm pining for a Garmin but it's not a priority. Just enjoy riding for the time being! Well done on getting a T3. It's a brilliant bike. Don't forget you have a free basic service within six months of buying it.
OP
OP
star84
Regular
- Location
- southend,Essex
thnx mate will download that on mi phone straight away.
Jimmy Doug
If you know what's good for you ...
I agree that phone apps can be useful, but there is no way I'd use any one of them instead of a cycle computer. They sap up battery power big time and if they bug you risk loosing track of your progress. Also, it's difficult to rig them up on your handlebars so you can see at any given time how fast you're going (and if you do manage that, then the battery goes even quicker!) - unless you spend money on a holder, that is, which probably costs more than a basic cycle computer. Cycle computers can be had very cheap these days. They start at £8 at Décathlon. There's no review for this model on the Décathlon.uk site, but on the French one it gets quite a decent thumbs up over 75 reviews.
Widge
Baldy Go
If you want a basic cycle computer...I'm afraid I'm a big fan of the Tesco's one at about £6.99! Does all the basic functions and I haven't had one let me down. Have them on my MTB and my road-bike. A bit fiddly to set-up and 'wired' but worth every penny in my book.
Basic cycle computers are fairly simple things. If they work - they work. No need to spend a fortune unless you need to measure all that heart-rate, cadence level, cholesterol, fags-per-hour stuff...or indeed Intelsat uplinkinking.....in which case...strap yer iPhone on or buy a spendy one..
w
Basic cycle computers are fairly simple things. If they work - they work. No need to spend a fortune unless you need to measure all that heart-rate, cadence level, cholesterol, fags-per-hour stuff...or indeed Intelsat uplinkinking.....in which case...strap yer iPhone on or buy a spendy one..
w
Spinney
Bimbleur extraordinaire
- Location
- Back up north
On the subject of sore bums - it's possibly a bit different for blokes than for women, but once you have got used to riding your bike a bit, you might want to make slight adjustments to things like the saddle height etc - just a slight difference in riding position can make a big difference to a hurting bum!
OP
OP
star84
Regular
- Location
- southend,Essex
OP
OP
star84
Regular
- Location
- southend,Essex
didnt feel much pain after a second ride i thnk after couple of more rides i will be fine now is jus my tighs i cant wait for when i can ride 30miles straight non stop
OP
OP
star84
Regular
- Location
- southend,Essex
thnx kies cant wait snow is the only thing stoping me now
Nigelnaturist
Guru
- Location
- Pontefract
Computers to look for, Garmin 200 does a course you can follow (not true sat-nav, but it does help you not to get lost) 500 as the 200 but will record H.R. and Cadence, Bryton Rider 20 records H.R and Cadence but no courses, Rider 40 and 35 as the Garmin 500, slightly different abilities but all record your course, which can be uploaded to various sites, with strava seemingly the most popular.
The Garmin 200 and Rider 20 around about £100 for a base unit, can be had cheaper, last time I looked the Rider 35/40 were about £110 at Evans, the Garmin 500 about £160, but can be had on the web for about £140-145.
All these unit will record speed, time, distance elevation, and averages, the 20/35/40 and 500 will record H.R. and cadence.
Battery life any thing from 10-30hrs depending on model and use.
One other to consider is the Rider 50 as this does do true Sat-Nav (like the Garmin 705/800 models) though is only about £170, again it will do H.R. and cadence.
Budget for another £50-60 for H.R and Cadence monitors, unless bought as a kit.
In the time I had the 35, I found it accurate in recording the track 95% of the time, sometimes it was a little off at the start till it got the best satellite lock (likewise most units), I changed for a Garmin 500, because I prefered the functionality of the Garmin, as it is seen as a external device by the computer (the Brytons weren't at the time), also the Bryton's information could only be accessed using their web site (though this has changed somewhat since then)
One other thing, though I am not sure if this is because I am leaving the unit to get a better lock before I start or because I have started using the cadence monitor, but since I did start using it the track seem much more accurate.
If its just know what current speed you are doing and avg, almost any of the non gps ones will do the job.
The Garmin 200 and Rider 20 around about £100 for a base unit, can be had cheaper, last time I looked the Rider 35/40 were about £110 at Evans, the Garmin 500 about £160, but can be had on the web for about £140-145.
All these unit will record speed, time, distance elevation, and averages, the 20/35/40 and 500 will record H.R. and cadence.
Battery life any thing from 10-30hrs depending on model and use.
One other to consider is the Rider 50 as this does do true Sat-Nav (like the Garmin 705/800 models) though is only about £170, again it will do H.R. and cadence.
Budget for another £50-60 for H.R and Cadence monitors, unless bought as a kit.
In the time I had the 35, I found it accurate in recording the track 95% of the time, sometimes it was a little off at the start till it got the best satellite lock (likewise most units), I changed for a Garmin 500, because I prefered the functionality of the Garmin, as it is seen as a external device by the computer (the Brytons weren't at the time), also the Bryton's information could only be accessed using their web site (though this has changed somewhat since then)
One other thing, though I am not sure if this is because I am leaving the unit to get a better lock before I start or because I have started using the cadence monitor, but since I did start using it the track seem much more accurate.
If its just know what current speed you are doing and avg, almost any of the non gps ones will do the job.
