Tubeless Tyre Damage
- Thread starter plastic_cyclist
- Start date
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- tubeless
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HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Manufacturers say 3months but they are trying to sell the stuff. It varies quite a bit on humidity but I would say you are on the limit given a relatively small nick isn't sealing.
The argument is not that plugs can hold 50 psi, 100 psi or 120 psi. Or proper sealant, proper seal, rim tape, proper valve setup, or right pump for that burst etc. Or the sealant crystal size is not right for road. The issue is it worth the effort and time.
It make senses if the terrain that you ride in sees frequent punctures as in MTBs. So if you are on decent roads with little history of puncture just work with decent tube tyres with puncture protection material. I think we have taken for granted that the conventional tube tyres have to be breached twice - tyre and tube unlike tubeless.
Not sure if we are looking for a solution without a problem at hand.
It make senses if the terrain that you ride in sees frequent punctures as in MTBs. So if you are on decent roads with little history of puncture just work with decent tube tyres with puncture protection material. I think we have taken for granted that the conventional tube tyres have to be breached twice - tyre and tube unlike tubeless.
Not sure if we are looking for a solution without a problem at hand.
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And to add from my experience, the sealant will dry up if you do have a very slow puncture or the tyre has never sealed right in the first place ! Been there got the t shirt !
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That’s a fair comment again my experience is that even tubeless setup is not infallible but at least there is a good chance your puncture may seal and get you home even if pressures are very low. Where as a conventional setup will often mean stopping and swapping tubes. Nae fun in winter !
Tyre choice then comes into it ………. With the big heavy marathon + etc
PaulSB
Squire
- Location
- Chorley, Lancashire
You made similar comments in the other current tubeless thread. It seems you feel setting up tubeless tyres takes a long time and I'm struggling to see why it's any more so than tubes?
With a tube one still needs to chose decent tubes, quality rim tape, fit the tube correctly, replace the tyre etc. I agree refitting a tubeless tyre, especially at the roadside, is more difficult than tubed but that would be the only issue.
Roadside puncture repair with a plug is far simpler and faster than fitting a tube to tubed tyre. Add to this incidents which are punctures on tubed tyres are largely eliminated with tubeless and one has far less hassle to contend with.
I'm certainly a convert to tubeless but far from an evangelist. My experience is well set up tubed and tubeless are both hassle free. For me tubeless win because the ride is better, punctures fewer and roadside repair simpler.
I have to agree , once setup properly. It should work as it should. Large holes will never seal and that’s where the plugs come in. Small holes will seal, you may have to stop and rotate the tyre to the bottom to allow maximum sealant to fill the hole. Or put a finger over it. Some will seal as you ride with a bit of pressure loss. I struggled at the beginning but little did I know that the plank of wheel builder never used tubeless tape !!!
PaulSB
Squire
- Location
- Chorley, Lancashire
This is the first time I've heard this. I have three plugs in the tyres on my gravel bike, the oldest was inserted 6-7 months ago. It's never occurred to me that I needed to patch the tyre from the inside.
I can see how a patch larger than the hole on the inside would be constantly forced against the tyre by the air pressure. I don't think the air pressure is sufficient to push out a well fitted plug.
What would be the reason for treating a plug as anything other than permanent?
A worm is a strip of rubber you insert into the hole with a fork like thing. The idea is that it takes some of the space up and the sealant does the rest. Unfortunately my limited experience is the worm makes a bid for freedom if the pressure is more than about 50 psi. The dynaplug looks a better design because of the arrow shape. I need something otherwise I’d be putting a tube in. Fortunately I am confident I can do this at the side of the road with my tyre and rim combo. I’d have no chance of reseating a tyre tubeless with a handpump.
OP
OP
plastic_cyclist
Senior Member
- Location
- Angus
I also hate my mini pump as it screws to the valve and ends up unsrewing the whole thing, resulting in total deflation and sealant everywhere!! 
OP
OP
plastic_cyclist
Senior Member
- Location
- Angus
Can I dynaplug this still ?
neil_merseyside
Guru
- Location
- Wirral
Yes, but you need to check the other side remembering snakes have two fangs...
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Tighten the core slightly with a core valve tool and it won't happen. Its a real pain when you buy tubes with removable cores but forget to 👎I also hate my mini pump as it screws to the valve and ends up unsrewing the whole thing, resulting in total deflation and sealant everywhere!!
PaulSB
Squire
- Location
- Chorley, Lancashire
Yep, been there, done that. You can tighten with a valve core tool which I usually forget to do!! The alternative is to get some Schwalbe valves with cores that are tightened from the base.I also hate my mini pump as it screws to the valve and ends up unsrewing the whole thing, resulting in total deflation and sealant everywhere!!
The valve is inserted as usual but the core is tightened in place using an Allen key at the base of the valve. Since fitting these the problem has disappeared for me.
