Tube vs tubeless

[Milkfloat]

No it wouldn't be rude provided you explain why.

OK, here goes.

This morning when I unscrewed the pump head the valve core came out. This has happened before. I put the core back in try to inflate but no joy, unscrewed again and the core came out.

Do you use a valve core tool or just going finger tight? I strongly suggest that you use one, or in a pinch pliers. If the core is tighter than the valve head then it will not unscrew. Even better use a push fir pump rather than screw.

When I thought about this more I realised in the last 12 months I have:

1. Been to my LBS +/- 6 times with valve related problems. I generally get one puncture a year.

What sort of problem scan you have with a valve? Tighten the valve stem in the rim so it does not leak and tighten the valve enough so it will not unscrew - that is about it.

2. As I've had regular inflation difficulty I ditched two old track pumps and replaced these with two more. Meaning I've used four different track pumps in a year in attempting to overcome inflation difficulties - basically unable to force air in. The track pumps were £30 and £60 so a £90 investment.

Valves should very rarely get gummed up, with a valve core remover of pliers they are easy to get out and clean. I refuse to believe that expensive track pumps will not inflate a valve, even a gummed up one unless you are buying ones built for volume rather than pressure.

3. Had to call International Rescue twice for a lift home when I was unable to reinstall the tyre after inserting a tube. The only occasions in my life I've needed IR.

Firstly, you should only ever need a tube if you have a side wall split, or a catastrophic fail, these are thankfully very rare. Being unable to reinstall a tyre is bad technique and or tools. If you got it on there once then it is always easier a second time, yes some wheel/tyre combinations are tight (I use Continental so I have sworn a few times myself), but they will go on.

4. Spent £40 on a plug kit

I have a fairly expensive one myself, on the rare times I have to plus, I want it to be a quick as possible so I don't lose sealant/air or slow down others I am with. I am a dynaplug user myself, less than 30 seconds from stopping to getting going again, you often don't even need to get off your bike.

Finally, many hundreds of thousands of people are quite happy with tubeless just like there are many millions of people happy with tubes. Both systems have their advantages and disadvantages and people will make their own choices, but very clearly both systems work.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

Ok so I've read a few comments arguing what would be the best solution between tubeless vs tubes but with tyres that have a high puncture protection.

Is there anyway you can double down (even at the risk of overkill)? Are there any road tyres that are tubeless and also have high puncture protection?

Or is the market making us choose either or?

 

[Milkfloat]

Why don't people who want to use tubeless use them and those who don't................well don't.

Same as helmets.

I can understand people asking who might think it worth it and then give their opinions, and the same for those who have used them and thought it's not for them to give theirs.

Quite - but as usual when people 'rubbish' what other people use the problems occur, especially when they may not have even tried it out.

 

[roubaixtuesday]

Ok so I've read a few comments arguing what would be the best solution between tubeless vs tubes but with tyres that have a high puncture protection.

Is there anyway you can double down (even at the risk of overkill)? Are there any road tyres that are tubeless and also have high puncture protection?

Or is the market making us choose either or?

I think the whole point is that tubeless is inherently puncture resistant by self-sealing thus enabling better rolling tyres to be used without compromising puncture resistance. But maybe I've missed something.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

I think the whole point is that tubeless is inherently puncture resistant by self-sealing thus enabling better rolling tyres to be used without compromising puncture resistance. But maybe I've missed something.

I know but I'm asking if there are any tubeless tyres with high puncture resistance for the more paranoid individuals?

Kinda like a double condom

 

[roubaixtuesday]

Kinda like a double condom

Well, if you're that risk averse, a full on "cycling dildo" is available from Tannus...

https://tannus.co.uk/tyres

Ha! And on investigation they also sell a "cycling double condom"! Including with a tubeless option.

https://tannus.co.uk/armour-homepage

 

[Deleted User]

I know but I'm asking if there are any tubeless tyres with high puncture resistance for the more paranoid individuals?

Kinda like a double condom

I've heard you can put sealant in a tube, like the slime stuff, so you could go down that route I guess?

 

[Pale Rider]

I know but I'm asking if there are any tubeless tyres with high puncture resistance for the more paranoid individuals?

Kinda like a double condom

Nothing to stop you running a puncture resistant tyre such as Marathon Plus tubeless.

Roadies don't tend to like such tyres because they are heavy and the harder compound inevitably compromises grip and rider feel.

Such a tyre would detract from an 8kg carbon dream machine, much less from a lumpy 12kg hybrid.

@roubaixtuesday beat me in suggesting the various liners now available.

Some have the benefit of being 'run flat', as I understand it, meaning you could finish a ride and sort out the puncture at home.

 

[Chislenko]

Watch till the end.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8aUaQlJ1sU

Post note edit: As correctly pointed out by @Milkfloat, the syringe valve injection is not recommended by Stan's No tube for road tyres. Only for MTBs. The crystals in the liquid that acts to seal cannot pass thru.

Apologies if this has already been asked but I can't be bothered reading five pages😀

But what I am intrigued by is if the crystals won't go through the syringe into the road tyres how do they go through the syringe into the mountain bike tyres?

 

[Milkfloat]

Apologies if this has already been asked but I can't be bothered reading five pages😀

But what I am intrigued by is if the crystals won't go through the syringe into the road tyres how do they go through the syringe into the mountain bike tyres?

The regular Stan's has much smaller crystals. However, with the syringe being used, none of them will go through, the bore is far too small. He should have used the Stan's syringe.

 

[Chislenko]

The regular Stan's has much smaller crystals. However, with the syringe being used, none of them will go through, the bore is far too small. He should have used the Stan's syringe.

Right, personally I use an artist's pipette which has quite a large opening.

On another note I have never used one of the plug type thingies but have patched a tubeless tyre on the inside and the repair has lasted. A tip I saw and used was a small dab of super glue on the cut before applying the patch.

 

[Arrowfoot]

Apologies if this has already been asked but I can't be bothered reading five pages😀

But what I am intrigued by is if the crystals won't go through the syringe into the road tyres how do they go through the syringe into the mountain bike tyres?

Believe me I too was intrigued by it and confused. Still new to this. The video shows "race sealant" as opposed to their regular sealant. The race sealant which came out much later has bigger and more crystals. I am going to edit out road tyre bit in the opening post. Thanks

 

[fair weather cyclist]

So, do we have enough elements to classify that video as "a waste of time"?

 

[PaulSB]

OK, here goes.



Do you use a valve core tool or just going finger tight? I strongly suggest that you use one, or in a pinch pliers. If the core is tighter than the valve head then it will not unscrew. Even better use a push fir pump rather than screw.

When I thought about this more I realised in the last 12 months I have:


What sort of problem scan you have with a valve? Tighten the valve stem in the rim so it does not leak and tighten the valve enough so it will not unscrew - that is about it.


Valves should very rarely get gummed up, with a valve core remover of pliers they are easy to get out and clean. I refuse to believe that expensive track pumps will not inflate a valve, even a gummed up one unless you are buying ones built for volume rather than pressure.


Firstly, you should only ever need a tube if you have a side wall split, or a catastrophic fail, these are thankfully very rare. Being unable to reinstall a tyre is bad technique and or tools. If you got it on there once then it is always easier a second time, yes some wheel/tyre combinations are tight (I use Continental so I have sworn a few times myself), but they will go on.



I have a fairly expensive one myself, on the rare times I have to plus, I want it to be a quick as possible so I don't lose sealant/air or slow down others I am with. I am a dynaplug user myself, less than 30 seconds from stopping to getting going again, you often don't even need to get off your bike.

Finally, many hundreds of thousands of people are quite happy with tubeless just like there are many millions of people happy with tubes. Both systems have their advantages and disadvantages and people will make their own choices, but very clearly both systems work.

Oh well that's me told........ anyone want to buy some bikes?

 

[Smokin Joe]

One thing I find interesting is that almost all pro riders are still using tubular tyres. Now we are often told by the retrofreaks that they only use CF frames, electronic shifts and discs etc etc because the equipment suppliers force them to. Yet since the mid eighties tyre manufacturers have desperately been trying to get the teams to ditch tubs (Which have little commercial value) by bringing out better and better clinchers, and now tubeless. Yet those stubborn old buggers who ride for a living still reckon tubs are a superior tyre and carry on using them.

Now I know this is not comparing tubed clinchers to tubeless, but from what I've read of peoples experiences if I were still riding and wanted a better performance tyre than a conventional clincher my choice would be to switch back to sprints and tubs rather than go tubeless. I know they are a hassle in their own way being slow to initially fit but I never had a ride ending problem in the years that I used them, and they can be ridden flat if you suffer more than one puncture and have used your spare.

All in all I think tubeless tyres on road bike have a bit of a way to go yet before they become the norm.