Tube vs tubeless

[Milkfloat]

One thing I find interesting is that almost all pro riders are still using tubular tyres. Now we are often told by the retrofreaks that they only use CF frames, electronic shifts and discs etc etc because the equipment suppliers force them to. Yet since the mid eighties tyre manufacturers have desperately been trying to get the teams to ditch tubs (Which have little commercial value) by bringing out better and better clinchers, and now tubeless. Yet those stubborn old buggers who ride for a living still reckon tubs are a superior tyre and carry on using them.

Now I know this is not comparing tubed clinchers to tubeless, but from what I've read of peoples experiences if I were still riding and wanted a better performance tyre than a conventional clincher my choice would be to switch back to sprints and tubs rather than go tubeless. I know they are a hassle in their own way being slow to initially fit but I never had a ride ending problem in the years that I used them, and they can be ridden flat if you suffer more than one puncture and have used your spare.

All in all I think tubeless tyres on road bike have a bit of a way to go yet before they become the norm.

Quite a few are moving over to tubeless for racing, how much is down to sponsors or conversely the fact that teams are notoriously resistance to change is unknown. As an amateur if you did chose to go from clinchers to tubs you would certainly be in the minority.

 

[matticus]

" ... pro riders ... "

My bingo card is filling up nicely!

 

[Scottish Scrutineer]

All the above spells more maintenance. Topping up sealant by breaking the seal every few months is one example. We also carry tubes just in case which was not the original intention. I think it is slowly turning out to be finding solutions, correct techniques, right products to address a problem. And the problem is handling punctures. Seems rather herculean to handle punctures.

You don't need to break the seal to top up sealant, just add some more. If you use the correct tool, you don't even have to remove the valve core

 

[Dogtrousers]

You don't need to break the seal to top up sealant, just add some more. If you use the correct tool, you don't even have to remove the valve core

What tool is that? And doesn't it gum up the valve core?

(Genuine questions not internet points-scoring trap)

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

I am running tubeless on all three of my bikes now and have found it to be a mostly positive experience.

I have a mountain bike with mahoosive 27.5+ tyres and two road bikes running 28c. I use the original Stan’s sealant and have used a Stan’s Dart a couple of times for sealing large holes.

I’m also going to convert my wife’s bike over to tubeless, as she and the rest of her group of lady riders seem to be totally unprepared to even attempt to change an inner tube.

So I’m thinking that at least there’s a chance that any puncture will seal itself immediately, or with the aid of a Stan's Dart, and I won’t receive an International Rescue Callout phone call.

I do think that for anyone who has a problem with removing a wheel and getting a tyre on and off for whatever reason, then tubeless is definitely the way to go.

My routine is to unscrew the valve, release some air, screw down again and then open the valve to inflate.

Paul, I used to do this as well, until I realised that my releasing a small amount of air was encouraging sealant into the valve core as that is what it is designed to do with any release of air. I also use a screw on Lezyne track pump and now, after unscrewing the valve core nut, attach my pump without releasing any air. It takes a bit more of an initial effort to open the valve, but it is only ever open with air flowing in under high pressure so there is no chance of sealant fouling the core.

I also use a valve core tool to fully tighten the core as I also used to experience the problem of removing the core when disconnecting the pump. Back when I used to run tubes I also carefully applied a small dab of superglue to the core threads before inserting.

 

[boydj]

I've had tubeless on two sets of wheels for a while now, with no problems. One set from Hunt came set up tubeless, the other set were built for me from old hubs and new Mavic rims and I did the tubeless setup myself. The setup was not totally pain free, but nowhere near as difficult as some make out and an interesting learning experience.

Anyway, the new bike came with tubeless-ready wheels and tyres, but set up with tubes. So, naturally, today I had my first puncture for a couple of years and I could not get the tyre to move off the edge of the rim enough to get a lever in because the seal was so tight. I had, for the first time in many years, to call the wife to come and pick me up. I've not had a chance to try to sort this out at home yet, but I suspect that if I had been properly tubeless -
a. I might not have had a puncture in the first place as the sealant would have dealt with it
b. If the puncture did not seal, then a plug would have dealt with it.

I've not experienced this problem with the older tubeless wheels. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has had this problem and how they solved it. I'll be changing these tyres anyway as they have little punture resistance, so it will be interesting to see how hard the replacements are to mount.

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

I've not experienced this problem with the older tubeless wheels. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has had this problem and how they solved it. I'll be changing these tyres anyway as they have little punture resistance, so it will be interesting to see how hard the replacements are to mount.

I have read that if you lay the wheel on the ground, you can (carefully) stand on the tyre to pop the bead.

Not had to try it myself yet though.

 

[boydj]

I have read that if you lay the wheel on the ground, you can (carefully) stand on the tyre to pop the bead.

Not had to try it myself yet though.

Thanks, tried that and it didn't work.

 

[PaulSB]

I am running tubeless on all three of my bikes now and have found it to be a mostly positive experience.

I have a mountain bike with mahoosive 27.5+ tyres and two road bikes running 28c. I use the original Stan’s sealant and have used a Stan’s Dart a couple of times for sealing large holes.

I’m also going to convert my wife’s bike over to tubeless, as she and the rest of her group of lady riders seem to be totally unprepared to even attempt to change an inner tube.

So I’m thinking that at least there’s a chance that any puncture will seal itself immediately, or with the aid of a Stan's Dart, and I won’t receive an International Rescue Callout phone call.

I do think that for anyone who has a problem with removing a wheel and getting a tyre on and off for whatever reason, then tubeless is definitely the way to go.



Paul, I used to do this as well, until I realised that my releasing a small amount of air was encouraging sealant into the valve core as that is what it is designed to do with any release of air. I also use a screw on Lezyne track pump and now, after unscrewing the valve core nut, attach my pump without releasing any air. It takes a bit more of an initial effort to open the valve, but it is only ever open with air flowing in under high pressure so there is no chance of sealant fouling the core.

I also use a valve core tool to fully tighten the core as I also used to experience the problem of removing the core when disconnecting the pump. Back when I used to run tubes I also carefully applied a small dab of superglue to the core threads before inserting.

Thank you for the tip re not releasing any air, it makes sense. I'll try this in the morning. I'm relieved to read I'm not the only one to experience issues with the valve core.

It hadn't occurred to me to tighten this on a regular basis. In all my cycling life I've never had reason to. I'll be adding it to my weekly routine when I check the bike over.

 

[Dogtrousers]

This morning when I unscrewed the pump head the valve core came out. This has happened before. I put the core back in try to inflate but no joy, unscrewed again and the core came out.

That happened to me in the pouring rain in a gateway not far from Gatwick airport a few years ago. I was using Continental inner tubes and the fecking pump kept extracting the core.

I gave up on carrying a screw on pump after that. I got myself a fancy Road Morph. And made sure to keep a valve core tool in my kit.

 

[I like Skol]

That happened to me in the pouring rain in a gateway not far from Gatwick airport a few years ago. I was using Continental inner tubes and the fecking pump kept extracting the core.

I gave up on carrying a screw on pump after that. I got myself a fancy Road Morph. And made sure to keep a valve core tool in my kit.

Never, ever, ever experienced this. But then I only own push fit presta pumps.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

That happened to me in the pouring rain in a gateway not far from Gatwick airport a few years ago. I was using Continental inner tubes and the fecking pump kept extracting the core.

I gave up on carrying a screw on pump after that. I got myself a fancy Road Morph. And made sure to keep a valve core tool in my kit.

My rear valve cap is a core tool

 

[Deleted User]

My rear valve cap is a core tool

For Presta valves?

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

For Presta valves?

Yep

 

[Deleted User]

Getting one of those!