Team BKool CycleChat

[AAAC 76C]

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Berty unfortunately I can't get anything on it to grip it and yank it out.

Andy I tried using wd40 but because it's such a snug fit I don't think it made any difference as it was just sitting on the surface. I was putting so much force through it the crank arm it was flexing which wasn't a good feeling!

Bob condor always seem to have a lengthy wait list on repairs. I think Lambs conduit st is my favourite bike shop in the world and I had considered it. The main problem I have is we're going away tomorrow and I'm not back until Tuesday before DD. So if they bugger it up any worse then I'm pretty screwed for Wales.

I'm now leaning towards leaving it until after Wales. But this means taking the cranks off and on rather than just the pedals when putting it into the bike box while taking it to Wales.

To compound it all the missus isn't exactly impressed it's getting so much attention today

Left Crank, Left Hand thread.
To unscrew a RH thread from the back you need to go clockwise as if you were screwing in.
LH thread is therefore counter clock wise
Your picture looks like you were going clockwise.
If you were going counter clockwise the bit would probably not be stuck because you would have turned the hex point all the way through the flat.
It also looks like your bit is under-size.

Like you say leave it in, when you have time buy a new set of pedals (if you don't have spares anywhere or on another bike) then dismantle the pedal on the crank and then grip the pedal spindle and twist the crank CLOCKWISE.

AND

When its off take the pedal spindle, if re-usable, somewhere to get the tool out.
I would take it to work
It may not be a job for an LBS more likely a machine shop or the like.

OR

Sell me the crankset and pedals for fiver and buy new

PS

You've done a good job of doing it up tight now so it wont come off.

 

[<Tommy>]

Mr. Turbo " strong arm" Tommy.
Wow that is 90 out of phase. You must have really cranked it. How about strip the pedal down .. use a pipe wrench to grab the spindle and remove the pedal then punch out the broken Allen wrench out.

Haha! Cheers Randy. I'd tell the missus what you said but her mocking laughter would keep me up all night!

 

[<Tommy>]

Left Crank, Left Hand thread.
To unscrew a RH thread from the back you need to go clockwise as if you were screwing in.
LH thread is therefore counter clock wise
Your picture looks like you were going clockwise.
If you were going counter clockwise the bit would probably not be stuck because you would have turned the hex point all the way through the flat.
It also looks like your bit is under-size.

Like you say leave it in, when you have time buy a new set of pedals (if you don't have spares anywhere or on another bike) then dismantle the pedal on the crank and then grip the pedal spindle and twist the crank CLOCKWISE.

AND

When its off take the pedal spindle, if re-usable, somewhere to get the tool out.
I would take it to work
It may not be a job for an LBS more likely a machine shop or the like.

OR

Sell me the crankset and pedals for fiver and buy new

PS

You've done a good job of doing it up tight now so it wont come off.

I was turning it anti clockwise promise!. Well attempting to... I actually had to make sure I was turning it the right way via google as I started to question myself when it wouldn't turn...

For what it's worth the hex head was a pretty good snug fit. When I looked at the picture again it does look slightly undersized but I think that's just the effect of me forcing it so hard and beginning to round it off.

What makes it more irritating is that I originally used grease on the spindle and tightened it with a tourque wrench. I'm quite surprised at how much it's seized up. The spindle is titanium, I don't know if that will make it more prone to issues but I don't see why it would.

What type of machinery would you ideally use to bore(?) it out? A pillar drill?

 

[AAAC 76C]

Mr. Turbo " strong arm" Tommy.
Wow that is 90 out of phase. You must have really cranked it. How about strip the pedal down .. use a pipe wrench to grab the spindle and remove the pedal then punch out the broken Allen wrench out.

Randy, knowing your a man of detail I feel it my duty to point out that the flats on a hex are clocked 60 degrees apart.
Looks like TT's gone about 15 degrees if he was turning the wrong way (clockwise) or 45 if he was going the right way.

None the less he should have had his power meter turned on and his Garmin connected to measure his max power.

 

[Add]

Pffft! Too much techy speak for me! In MY professional opinion, it just looks f**ked!

 

[Add]

You can use my bike Tommy, or we have a BMX.

 

[AAAC 76C]

I was turning it anti clockwise promise!. Well attempting to... I actually had to make sure I was turning it the right way via google as I started to question myself when it wouldn't turn...

For what it's worth the hex head was a pretty good snug fit. When I looked at the picture again it does look slightly undersized but I think that's just the effect of me forcing it so hard and beginning to round it off.

What makes it more irritating is that I originally used grease on the spindle and tightened it with a tourque wrench. I'm quite surprised at how much it's seized up. The spindle is titanium, I don't know if that will make it more prone to issues but I don't see why it would.

What type of machinery would you ideally use to bore(?) it out? A pillar drill?

Anti-clockwise looking from the pedal side or looking through the frame?
The latter is correct
I would always do it from the pedal side and set the wrench lever so you can grip the crank with your fingers and squeeze. It's amazing how much controlled torque you can create like that.
I bet you have a digital watch which would not help.


Crap, if it's TI its not a throw away but you should still be able to dismantle the pedal on the crank.
Cobalt tipped bits used with coolant or a very slow drill speed should do the job.
Doing it in a pillar drill will help keeping everything straight but the crux is to drill dead centre on the tool bit.
The only bolts I have come across that did not work on were in a Gas Turbine Engine on a combustion chamber and we had to have them spark eroded out.

 

[AAAC 76C]

Pffft! Too much techy speak for me! In MY professional opinion, it just looks f**ked!

In the old days with steel all round we would have hit it with a big hammer.
Pesky carbon and expensive alloys!

 

[<Tommy>]

Pffft! Too much techy speak for me! In MY professional opinion, it just looks f**ked!

I know too much techy speak but I've got a plane to catch tomorrow so hopefully I send myself to sleep soon!

 

[<Tommy>]

Anti-clockwise looking from the pedal side or looking through the frame?
The latter is correct
I would always do it from the pedal side and set the wrench lever so you can grip the crank with your fingers and squeeze. It's amazing how much controlled torque you can create like that.
I bet you have a digital watch which would not help.


Crap, if it's TI its not a throw away but you should still be able to dismantle the pedal on the crank.
Cobalt tipped bits used with coolant or a very slow drill speed should do the job.
Doing it in a pillar drill will help keeping everything straight but the crux is to drill dead centre on the tool bit.
The only bolts I have come across that did not work on were in a Gas Turbine Engine on a combustion chamber and we had to have them spark eroded out.

Non drive side - anti clockwise

I think the problem's compounded by the fact you're putting all the torque through a hex bit. There's no way you can create enough torque unless you use a ratchet wrench. And I just don't think a hex bit of that size should be expected to take that much force.

I'm thinking worse ways I take yours and randys advice with regards taking the pedal apart. If I can separate the spindle from the crank arms. It might be possible to replace the spindle rather than the whole peddle even if I can't save the spindles.

 

[AAAC 76C]

Non drive side - anti clockwise

I think the problem's compounded by the fact you're putting all the torque through a hex bit. There's no way you can create enough torque unless you use a ratchet wrench. And I just don't think a hex bit of that size should be expected to take that much force.

I'm thinking worse ways I take yours and randys advice with regards taking the pedal apart. If I can separate the spindle from the crank arms. It might be possible to replace the spindle rather than the whole peddle even if I can't save the spindles.

But if your looking from the other side it's clockwise.
It would almost be natural to work from the side the tool is but I might be wrong.

A snug fitting hex bit can drive a lot of torque without the drive slipping like it has because everything is in compression and there is a large tool fastener contact area all be it not perpendicular to the torque applied so a good bit inserted into a titanium alloy should drive well subject to the bit shearing which it has.
Bi-hex, torx, or a star bits would drive better but can be weaker in shear due to the reduced diameter of the core of the bit.
Open ended spanners, particularly the reduced thickness that is often used for pedal spanners can spread or round off under excess loading.
I still say you woz going the wrong way Sir but that is split milk.

 

[Randyberlin]

You can use my bike Tommy, or we have a BMX.

TT on a BMX

 

[MasterDabber]

An easy way to remember which way to undo pedals regardless which side you are looking at it from is...
pedal in 12 o'clock position, turn spanner, hex bit, whatever towards the back of the bike.

No confusion that way.

 

[CXRAndy]

Clever rule, I tend to look for tighten arrow when installing opposite thread items

An easy way to remember which way to undo pedals regardless which side you are looking at it from is...
pedal in 12 o'clock position, turn spanner, hex bit, whatever towards the back of the bike.

No confusion that way.

 

[berty bassett]

I tend you push as hard as I can anti clockwise till it slips and I de-knuckle myself on the chain ring then try the other way till other hand matches