Show us: your log burners and open fires

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Chromatic

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucestershire
Go on then, the other 15% turns into cosmic rays? ^_^

The 85% does mean 85% of the heat enters the room (the measurement is done by subtracting the energy in the flue gases, calculated from their temperature and volume), but it is under specified conditions and will be affected by the length of exposed stovepipe, whether it's in a chimney recess, etc as well as the burning conditions. A stove with outside air intake (which is very much worth it), on a free-standing hearth and with the maximum permitted uninsulated stovepipe inside the room will be the most efficient.

I was going to post that what Notafettler said was wrong but you beat me to it.
 

lejogger

Guru
Location
Wirral
An air inlet under the grate is primary air and not for wood burning, only for coal or for lighting up. There must be a fixed secondary air inlet, or you have a coal-only stove.
555175


Ah ok. We have an air inlet under the grate (for coal) which can be opened up by pulling the right hand knob.
The lever to the left is the only other control, but I'm not actually sure where inlet this controls is located.
 
I was going to post that what Notafettler said was wrong but you beat me to it.
I am not wrong i have never been wrong...ever. how often do you actually get a perfect burn? They (the manufacturers) use volkswagen to do there testing. I certainly don't get a perfect burn over night. Well I assume that as I put one big log on making sure it has bark all the way round. Then close it down and it always stays in. Nobody gets a perfect burn unless its measured by volkswagen!!
 

figbat

Slippery scientist
An air inlet under the grate is primary air and not for wood burning, only for coal or for lighting up. There must be a fixed secondary air inlet, or you have a coal-only stove.
Our Charnwood C4 only has one control - a single knob under the door that sits in one of three notched positions (although you could position it between notches if you wanted). Full-out is intended for lighting or reanimating a fire. Mid-point is the normal running position and full-in is for a longer, lower burn. We rarely use the full-in, unless the fire is burning especially hot. We are paranoid about the flue temperature but always manage to run it in the indicated 'safe' zone - our sweep confirmed he was happy with the state of the flue and to carry on as we were.
 
Anyway I am off for 2 hour cycle ride to exercise the dog i will go on my electric bike with trailer. I will come back soaked but happy as the trailer will have at least half a days wood in it. Which I will add to the 2 years plus I already have and it will cost me nothing. Thats what you call efficient. Ner de ner ner!!
 
Anyway I am off for 2 hour cycle ride to exercise the dog i will go on my electric bike with trailer. I will come back soaked but happy as the trailer will have at least half a days wood in it. Which I will add to the 2 years plus I already have and it will cost me nothing. Thats what you call efficient. Ner de ner ner!!

I can better that...

All I need to do is step outside my front door and into the wood that I planted. ^_^

Which I'm not going to do in the piddling rain, but I do have plenty of firewood stashed where it's dry - along a wire fence under a conifer hedge, and the prevailing wind blows through it. Perfect place for seasoning logs.
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
I’ll need to come up with something better for drying .
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
A conservatory kiln-dries it in a matter of months. I cut some eucalyptus in mid-January and it was good to burn by the end of March. In summer it dries even quicker.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
We can still use it here if we want - we are not in a smokeless zone. ...
Used proper coal throughout the 90s and was in a smokeless zone :blush: ...neither the police nor council called round to tell me to stop
Who has actual newspaper these days?
Rubbing it with the Internet anyone?
Ostentatious waster that I am, three sheets of Lidl roll damped and then dipped in wood ash. Finished with glass cleaner and another sheet. Wood ash makes a very good none aggressive abrasive that cuts the tar and not the glass.
Newspaper ain't what it used to be... these days, the 'ink' isn't soot and therefore it doesn't have the magical cleaning qualities it used to have.
 
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