Resistance is futile

[wafter]

Can I ask why? When I rode tubes my road bike pressure would be +/-100psi. I've been riding the same bike tubeless for four years now. Rear tyre 55psi, front 50. I could probably drop to 50/45 and really should try it some day.

There's no doubt tubeless can be a difficult initial setup but the riding benefits far outweigh the hassle.

Because higher pressure makes sealing harder, while lower volume gives less time before the air loss becomes problematic.

I'm aware that on paper tubeless allows you to run lower pressures; but halving them seems extreme - is that with the same section tyre, rider mass etc? Do you get any problems with handling, tyre impingement on the rim or premature sidewall failure?

I put a lot of time into trying to make it work on the Brompton but it just wasn't feasible; although granted this was a lashup and might have played out differently had proper tubeless tyres been available.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I've never tried a carbon frame, and although I might one day have a go on one, I'll never buy one.
I run tubeless, and I'm happy with them.
I'm quite open to the idea of disc brakes but my frame won't handle them. One day maybe but I'm not in any great hurry.

Now - electronic shifting. From a practical point of view, I don't like brifters. A finnicky over complicated and fragile solution to a problem that downtube friction shifters handle perfectly well. Yeah, I use them but they're an ugly solution to a non-problem. One day I might put friction shifters on my bike but I'm no shakes as a mechanic, so I just go with the flow. Or maybe instead I might go for - electronic shifters! They seem to me to be - at last - a genuine advance on friction. They offer what brifters offered but without being an engineering bodge job. I'm not sure you can get what I want - a setup for a steel bike with rim brakes.

 

[PaulSB]

Because higher pressure makes sealing harder, while lower volume gives less time before the air loss becomes problematic.

I'm aware that on paper tubeless allows you to run lower pressures; but halving them seems extreme - is that with the same section tyre, rider mass etc? Do you get any problems with handling, tyre impingement on the rim or premature sidewall failure?

I put a lot of time into trying to make it work on the Brompton but it just wasn't feasible; although granted this was a lashup and might have played out differently had proper tubeless tyres been available.

Air loss is usually slow, unless the tyre damage is dramatic. As a rule the rider is unaware of the puncture because sealing is quick. I've replaced a worn out tyre to find, unknown to me, five sealed punctures. With larger holes sealant spurts out as the wheel spins. By the time I've stopped the hole is sealed and a quick pump might be needed. The trick in this instance is to keep riding till the sealant stops. For major damage a plug will repair the tyre in 5-6 minutes. It probably takes longer to get the kit out and repack than to repair.

I'm comparing like with like. The only difference on the bike, wheels or with the rider, me, being the change from Conti GP5000s tubed to tubeless. If anything handling is improved, especially in the wet when cornering. I don't log how long a tyre lasts but I've seen nothing other than normal wear.

The pressure reduction is as I've said. That's very significant. I think this is because roadies tend to ride very high, probably too high, pressures, I did. It took me a long time to gain the confidence to drop to 55/50.

Your comparing a lashup with wheels and tyres specific to the task. It isn't a fair comparison. I also feel you're overthinking it. Initial set up can be a pain in the arse. It took a long time to find valves which work for me.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

I used to have a foldable mountain bike in the 1990s (Rudge Bi-Frame if anyone is interested)

It had indexed gears which were just a pain
I found that I could vary the indexing until it basically it stopped existing and became just a friction movement
so I just moved the level up and down until it go into the gear I wanted

My current bike has proper indexing but I am not convinced about the advantage
I certainly find that when I have had pure friction based gear levers then it has taken a short while to get used to - but works perfectly well after that


too much technology is not always an improvement
IMO!

 

[HLaB]

Because higher pressure makes sealing harder, while lower volume gives less time before the air loss becomes problematic.

I'm aware that on paper tubeless allows you to run lower pressures; but halving them seems extreme - is that with the same section tyre, rider mass etc? Do you get any problems with handling, tyre impingement on the rim or premature sidewall failure?

I put a lot of time into trying to make it work on the Brompton but it just wasn't feasible; although granted this was a lashup and might have played out differently had proper tubeless tyres been available.

Sealants and tyre technology are getting better all the time I've been riding tubeless on my TT disc (circa 90psi) since 2017 and my roadbikes since 2018 with circa 60-80psi. I had dodgy sealant in 2018 (Finishline) and almost gave up but I'm glad I never. I used to find Stans Race was needed for setting up higher pressure tyres (nothing else cut it) but Stans Race could get cloggy but the newer Peatys stuff (touch wood) seems to be a lot better a lot more manageable but just as good or better for setting up, hopefully its as good in the long term. I've never had any handling, tyre impingement problems or premature side wall failures though.

 

[fritz katzenjammer]

A few things I've not tried yet:
- Disc brakes
- Tubeless
- Electronic shifting

Your confessions welcome.

I work as an assembler at a factory owned Trek dealership, so I get to play with all the latest kit. Most doesn’t impress me much. I have disc brakes on one of my road bikes, because I got a silly deal from my employer, so why not. They are mechanical discs, upgraded to Grotac Equals so they really work well. If it weren’t for the deal would I have it? Likely not, and the poor bike has already lost its indexed shifting in favor of Dia-comp friction wing shifters.

tubeless..pah, not unless I was racing off road in some serious rocky mess. Electronic shifting? Why would I want a system that needs batteries? It’s just one more thing to maintain… sorta like tubeless tires and hydraulic brakes really.

look! Reliable fluid free non warping rim brakes! Batteryless shifting! Innertubes that don’t dry out Every four months! Crazy!

and let’s not get into the Dutch lump with linked rod operated drum brakes… simple, balanced, reliable and weatherproof… complete silliness. Okay… so maybe a bit overweight, but quite comfy.

 

[slow horse]

and let’s not get into the Dutch lump with linked rod operated drum brakes… simple, balanced, reliable and weatherproof… complete silliness. Okay… so maybe a bit overweight, but quite comfy.

View attachment 749423

The bike envy thread is thataway -->
Seriously, against all odds I'm drawn to this.

 

[BrumJim]

I give you Rebekah Borg

View attachment 748924

That's Kevin Aird. Rebekah Borg looks like this:

 

[PaulSB]

I work as an assembler at a factory owned Trek dealership, so I get to play with all the latest kit. Most doesn’t impress me much. I have disc brakes on one of my road bikes, because I got a silly deal from my employer, so why not. They are mechanical discs, upgraded to Grotac Equals so they really work well. If it weren’t for the deal would I have it? Likely not, and the poor bike has already lost its indexed shifting in favor of Dia-comp friction wing shifters.

tubeless..pah, not unless I was racing off road in some serious rocky mess. Electronic shifting? Why would I want a system that needs batteries? It’s just one more thing to maintain… sorta like tubeless tires and hydraulic brakes really.

look! Reliable fluid free non warping rim brakes! Batteryless shifting! Innertubes that don’t dry out Every four months! Crazy!


View attachment 749422
and let’s not get into the Dutch lump with linked rod operated drum brakes… simple, balanced, reliable and weatherproof… complete silliness. Okay… so maybe a bit overweight, but quite comfy.

View attachment 749423

I see where your coming from and agree you probably don't need tubeless, discs and electronic shifting on this style of bike.

From another perspective I've ridden tubeless for four years and discs for eight. In that time I've had two punctures which needed fixing. One was a five minute job to insert a plug which stayed in place till the tyre wore out. The other was a gashed tyre after riding over a broken bottle. I find with discs I can descend and corner with much greater confidence.

Another factor now comes into play for me. Four months ago I had a major RTA when a tractor hit me at 30+ mph. One injury was three broken fingers on the right hand. It's clear I won't regain full strength or movement in this hand.

The new bike I've ordered with 12 speed d12 will help overcome shifting problems with the right hand. Hydraulic brakes will aid the weakened hand. It remains to be seen if I can change a tube. Thank goodness for tubeless.

These things are introduced with a range of "benefits" sold to the consumer. None of the above would have featured.

My consultant, a club cyclist, recommended I go with di2.

 

[wafter]

Sealants and tyre technology are getting better all the time I've been riding tubeless on my TT disc (circa 90psi) since 2017 and my roadbikes since 2018 with circa 60-80psi. I had dodgy sealant in 2018 (Finishline) and almost gave up but I'm glad I never. I used to find Stans Race was needed for setting up higher pressure tyres (nothing else cut it) but Stans Race could get cloggy but the newer Peatys stuff (touch wood) seems to be a lot better a lot more manageable but just as good or better for setting up, hopefully its as good in the long term. I've never had any handling, tyre impingement problems or premature side wall failures though.

Thanks - that's interesting that you're having success with Peaty's as that's what I was using and still had problems (not to denigrate the product as again I was winging it with non-tubeless components).