fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Hah hah. It's a very handy button.
R8000 Rear Derailleur: A Word to the Wise
- Thread starter mpemburn
- Start date
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Hah hah. It's a very handy button.
T4tomo
Legendary Member
This is correct - well done Shimano to bring out an update to your only current 10spd series, which is incompatible with older 10 speed Shimano.
For anyone needing replacement 10 speed shifters for 4600 or older 10spd 105 etc, microshift do compatible ones or take your chance with "used" on ebay.
wonderloaf
Veteran
Just fitted the 'special' cable and taken the bike around the block and shifting seems to be much improved, will give it a proper shakedown on a longer ride tomorrow.
Next time I will RTFM, thanks @mpemburn for posting this pearl of wisdom!
itboffin
Guru
- Location
- Marlborough, Windshire
Had another go at adjusting mine, obviously I’ve made it so much worse, what I have noticed is I have no low trim position, clearly cable tension is set wrongly.
came across this as well, those are the gears rubbing most for me.
came across this as well, those are the gears rubbing most for me.
itboffin
Guru
- Location
- Marlborough, Windshire
Another ride today where i spent the entire time shifting and try to trim, cassette skipping as well, total bag of shite
OP
OP
mpemburn
Well-Known Member
Have you had the hanger alignment checked? This was the first problem I encountered with mine. It wasn’t bad enough for my LBS to notice it on the repair stand, but when I took it out for the first ride, it would only work reliably on the largest three of for cogs, and the smallest one. Once they tweaked the hanger, it has shifted like a dream.
Ming the Merciless
There is no mercy
- Location
- Inside my skull
I’m going to stick with 9 speed and friction shift. As easy as pie to setup and use.
wonderloaf
Veteran
I had similar problems with my RD, only fitting a new RD solved them. The only difference I could see between old & new was that on the old RD there was more play in the jockey wheel arm top pivot, I can only assume it was causing inconsistent shifting. Now with the new RD and the special cable the shifting is very slick & precise. I'm a bit miffed about the old RD as it had only done about 11000 miles and thought they never wore out. At this rate I'll be putting a new one on every couple of years! 
T4tomo
Legendary Member
sometime it helps to just undo all the cables and start again, methodically, from scratch. Did either LBS check hanger alignment to rule that out?
check all the outers are seated properly in cable stops, inners running freely through outers (and frame for internal runs) etc.
"not compatible" with a frameset isn't a "thing"
iluvmybike
Über Member
It's bit over the top to totally condemn something just because you cannot get it right. I have fitted and used this kit on many occasions and on several bikes without problems. Take the advice given above and start from scratch - or better get a decent mechanic to sort it for you
T4tomo
Legendary Member
Bit harsh - full of Christmas cheer, not.
out of interest?
- are you a bike mechanic
- have bought / built up loads of bike in the past 3 years
- upgraded your entire fleet to Ultegra 8000
- guilty of exaggeration
itboffin
Guru
- Location
- Marlborough, Windshire
Yep that was done in the second LBS i took it to
itboffin
Guru
- Location
- Marlborough, Windshire
I can hear cable rub when out of the saddle climbing i'm pretty sure that's from the BB area, that needs fixing. I'm also convinced the crankset isnt installed correctly as the first LBS who had the bike for a month trying to get it working replaced the BB axle and struggled to get the NDS arm back on. As for the high and low settings those are spot on now after a bit of tweaking from me but because the cable tension is wrong there's still rubbing in far too many gears.
As per that Shimano image above my chain does indeed make contact with the inside of the outer chainring when on the inner ring and crossed to the small rear cogs, this is by design according to the Shimano dealer docs. No amount of adjusting is going to fix that.
As per that Shimano image above my chain does indeed make contact with the inside of the outer chainring when on the inner ring and crossed to the small rear cogs, this is by design according to the Shimano dealer docs. No amount of adjusting is going to fix that.
iluvmybike
Über Member
Bit harsh - full of Christmas cheer, not.
out of interest?
- are you a bike mechanic YES (just retired)
- have bought / built up loads of bike in the past 3 years YES
- upgraded your entire fleet to Ultegra 8000 No not entirely as yet
- guilty of exaggeration NO
T4tomo
Legendary Member
Yes, particularly on a compact with a larger tooth difference, that's just a fact of life / geometry with 11 speed. once your over half way down the cassette you need to be on the big ring. It doesn't happen the other way with chain on big ring so its only the largest one or two sprockets that will cause rub on the FD cage (even on the inner trim position) , but again if you are onto those sprockets you should be back in the little ring.
Sounds you are down to fine tuning the cable tension. I always start on big ring and small sprocket, click once and then dial in tension so it changes to 2nd smallest, then check and fine tune with 1/4 or 1/8th turn from there, in the middle of the sprocket range, so its slick changing and silent running.
I'm still running 6800 on the best bike, so can't advise on the crankset issue. Maybe @iluvmybike will pop around to help you with that😘
