Home D.I.Y.

[CXRAndy]

Some fairly decent mounts for cabinets, but I like to see them fixed into something solid if possible.

It might look drastic to cut open a stud wall but it's quite straightforward and to repair. I usually fit 18mm plywood between studs but for these floating shelves had 60mm threaded bolts and a large smooth shank. I wanted solid timber behind plasterboard

 

[newts]

Some fairly decent mounts for cabinets, but I like to see them fixed into something solid if possible.

It might look drastic to cut open a stud wall but it's quite straightforward and to repair. I usually fit 18mm plywood between studs but for these floating shelves had 60mm threaded bolts and a large smooth shank. I wanted solid timber behind plasterboard

You made the right choice with inserting timber grounds, plasterboard fixings wouldn't cope with the leverage forces from the floating shelves.

 

[Fastpedaller]

It depends on which plasterboard plugs you use. Mine came supplied with them, which we used, and the units are sitting up there fine

I'd not trust anything heavy using any of the plasterboard fixing TBH - 12 dinner plates plus other crockery hanging on a wall cabinet needs fixing securely. My Neice (about 13 at the time) was nearly clouted by a kitchen cabinet falling off the wall - my Sister and family had moved into their house the week before. The screws holding the cabinet onto the block wall were only about an inch long, with wall plugs. I always use at least 45mm long into block walls. Better safe than sorry. CXRAndy has a good approach.

 

[cyberknight]

Bit of decorating in the downstairs loo , the builder intends to plumb in the toilet on saturday .... at last !

 

[icowden]

Maybe i should just accept that i am not a pro,and i am 74.So anything i do is better than it was.In April we are paying for a decorator to do the hallway and staircase,plus remove the ceiling paper repaper and emulsion paint the ceiling,i wonder what he would charge for doing all the room.the walls i have just done.I like things perfect,i think its a form of ocd.

It all depends. My father in law isn't a pro but is very good at DIY and has done a lot of it over the years. His dad worked in construction and taught him a lot of things. His first house in the 1960s was fire damaged so he redid the electrics, roof, gas, everything himself. He, like you is now in his mid 70s. He also has bad knees from working as a BT engineer for 40 years. He has sort of accepted now that he can only do smaller jobs but gets very frustrated with the quality of professionals work because they will often not worry about things that he would have taken care and time over, whether it's a little bit of wall that wasn't filled and sanded properly or whatever.

He's passed on a lot of useful skills to me although I'm still useless at anything that requires real skill or precision.

 

[Profpointy]

Replaced the top step of the stairs down to the basement. The edge was cracked and it was a bit 'elf-n-safety to be honest, but I'd put off fixing it it as it looked like a pig to remove without wrecking the banister support and other associated woodwork, and I envisaged an unhappy clerk-of-works if it ended up in bits for a week. Anyhow it was totally straightforward and completed in 20mins including rounding off the edge with a spokeshave.

Back to the pain in the arse job of finishing the skirting round the new fireplace mentioned upthread

 

[Profpointy]

Both new two-piece bits of skirting finished, albeit need fixing in place. The second piece is a better fit round the fireplace casting than the first. Quite satisfying, but I think I'd be able to charge about 10 pence an hour if doing it for a living

 

[postman]

My lad is doing so well.I have not been over to see them both due to my hernia operation.But he is sending photos of progress.I am so proud of what he is doing his prep work is wonderful.Do it right first time and it looks good.

 

[gbb]

Maybe every year, I re gloss the Hall, stairs and landing woodwork and doors...all 13 of them.
Because its a fairly big job, I've taken to using water based gloss or silk finish usually works OK drys very quickly, no smell. Negatives are its opacity isn't that good so it's invariably two coats .
For whatever reason, the paint didn't adhere on the stair rails and and a couple of older style plain doors and frames, yet the newer style panel doors have been ok.
So I have a strange finish that bugged me as it developed (seemed OK for the first few months)
This evening, peeled one door of its scabby paint and sanded off the few bits of really stubborn stuff. There's only one other panel door of the same construction plus the skirts and frames .

Really weird, never had it before, I do wonder if the paint (Leyland possibly) was at fault.

 

[icowden]

Maybe every year, I re gloss the Hall, stairs and landing woodwork and doors...all 13 of them.

Well, everyone needs a hobby...

 

[postman]

Maybe every year, I re gloss the Hall, stairs and landing woodwork and doors...all 13 of them.
Because its a fairly big job, I've taken to using water based gloss or silk finish usually works OK drys very quickly, no smell. Negatives are its opacity isn't that good so it's invariably two coats .
For whatever reason, the paint didn't adhere on the stair rails and and a couple of older style plain doors and frames, yet the newer style panel doors have been ok.
So I have a strange finish that bugged me as it developed (seemed OK for the first few months)
This evening, peeled one door of its scabby paint and sanded off the few bits of really stubborn stuff. There's only one other panel door of the same construction plus the skirts and frames .

Really weird, never had it before, I do wonder if the paint (Leyland possibly) was at fault.

Mrs P loves the satinwood paints.She keeps on telling paint is so much better than when me dad taught me way back in 1961,when i first worked with him as an eleven year old during skool olidays.I undercoat my woodwork with an oil based white undercoat,then satinwood.Both stick to each other better i think.I find satinwood chips easier than oil based paints,but wot do i know,after 63 years.

 

[newts]

Maybe every year, I re gloss the Hall, stairs and landing woodwork and doors...all 13 of them.
Because its a fairly big job, I've taken to using water based gloss or silk finish usually works OK drys very quickly, no smell. Negatives are its opacity isn't that good so it's invariably two coats .
For whatever reason, the paint didn't adhere on the stair rails and and a couple of older style plain doors and frames, yet the newer style panel doors have been ok.
So I have a strange finish that bugged me as it developed (seemed OK for the first few months)
This evening, peeled one door of its scabby paint and sanded off the few bits of really stubborn stuff. There's only one other panel door of the same construction plus the skirts and frames .

Really weird, never had it before, I do wonder if the paint (Leyland possibly) was at fault.

A good adhesion primer is recommended when painting over oil based paints with water based. Zinsser & Tikkurila Otex are very good. I used the latter to paint over varnished kitchen unit doors & it's stuck like sh#t to a blanket with no bleed through.

 

[gbb]

Mrs P loves the satinwood paints.She keeps on telling paint is so much better than when me dad taught me way back in 1961,when i first worked with him as an eleven year old during skool olidays.I undercoat my woodwork with an oil based white undercoat,then satinwood.Both stick to each other better i think.I find satinwood chips easier than oil based paints,but wot do i know,after 63 years.

Oh it chips...I've noticed that , particually on corners.

I'd prefer to oil base gloss but what with a dog that sheds, 13 doors and all the associated woodwork, stairs etc, it's just a smelly nightmare that takes forever and end up with a multitude of dog hairs in no matter how hard I try to avoid it.

Water based, far more convenient, faster....but has its negatives, no doubt about that...but stays white.
But then, oil based yellows with age (and not much age)

It's all a compromise..

 

[Profpointy]

Some fairly decent mounts for cabinets, but I like to see them fixed into something solid if possible.

It might look drastic to cut open a stud wall but it's quite straightforward and to repair. I usually fit 18mm plywood between studs but for these floating shelves had 60mm threaded bolts and a large smooth shank. I wanted solid timber behind plasterboard

I've done similar for the screws for a shower rail. Whilst not per se heavy there would be a considerable bending moment from its 5' length. Cut 3" discs out of the wall behind and you can't see the join after I'd finished

 

[Fastpedaller]

Oh it chips...I've noticed that , particually on corners.

I'd prefer to oil base gloss but what with a dog that sheds, 13 doors and all the associated woodwork, stairs etc, it's just a smelly nightmare that takes forever and end up with a multitude of dog hairs in no matter how hard I try to avoid it.

Water based, far more convenient, faster....but has its negatives, no doubt about that...but stays white.
But then, oil based yellows with age (and not much age)

It's all a compromise..

The Bedeck water-based Multi-Surface paint is very good. A pal recommended it to me after he'd overpainted his (brown) PVC door to make it white - and he says it hasn't chipped or otherwise come off despite a few knocks.