Disc brakes are fugly on a racing bike. Can go on any other though. My road rim brakes eat rims at the rate of one every 12 months on the commuter.
Yup, that's about the same for me
Disc brakes are fugly on a racing bike. Can go on any other though. My road rim brakes eat rims at the rate of one every 12 months on the commuter.
I wish but I don't think this is borne out by evidence so far. You can get Mavic Crossride (and until they eliminated rim brakes version Crossmax) in both configurations e.g., and the disc wheels are invariably heavier, by around 200g a pair.I would counter the making a bike heavy what is gained on calipers can be lost on the wheels due to no need for the braking surface.
Brakes aren't really an issue on a TT bike, except on a very technical course. In most cases any old crap will do - as Graham Obree demonstrated.Which must be why SRAM are also looking at hydro rim brakes, Magura style.
Disks can't be made as aerodynamic as callipers, for TT's and such, where minuscule differences matter.
lovely bike.......uummm do I need another bike.... which model is it?My new road bike has discs...being delivered this week hopefully.
I bought it for my commute for 2 reasons 1: Better stopping power (especially in the wet) 2: I'm sick of rim brakes eating the rims.
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At a guess - more traffic = much more stopping and starting? (More braking = more wear).The thing that has me a little puzzled with brakes is how quickly some people are getting through rims, why? I have an old Dawes in the shed that spends most of its time on the turbo these days, it had a wheel upgrade after about twelve months and those wheels are still going strong eight years later. I got rid of a Rayleigh about eighteen months ago, it was ten years old and still on the original wheels. My fixed had a new front wheel, hub problems, on it about two years ago but is still on the original back wheel, both wheels going strong, so how do people wear out their rims so quick? I've been cycling for over forty years and this something recent, so what has changed?
At a guess - more traffic = much more stopping and starting? (More braking = more wear).
In your case, Dave, most of your winter riding is done on fixed so perhaps you are using leg braking more than using your actual brakes?
I know that I was really chewing up my MTB rims and blocks on wet rides before I got my current MTB which has disk brakes.
lovely bike.......uummm do I need another bike.... which model is it?
At a guess - more traffic = much more stopping and starting? (More braking = more wear).
In your case, Dave, most of your winter riding is done on fixed so perhaps you are using leg braking more than using your actual brakes?
I know that I was really chewing up my MTB rims and blocks on wet rides before I got my current MTB which has disk brakes.
The thing that has me a little puzzled with brakes is how quickly some people are getting through rims, why? I have an old Dawes in the shed that spends most of its time on the turbo these days, it had a wheel upgrade after about twelve months and those wheels are still going strong eight years later. I got rid of a Rayleigh about eighteen months ago, it was ten years old and still on the original wheels. My fixed had a new front wheel, hub problems, on it about two years ago but is still on the original back wheel, both wheels going strong, so how do people wear out their rims so quick? I've been cycling for over forty years and this something recent, so what has changed?
I would counter the making a bike heavy what is gained on calipers can be lost on the wheels due to no need for the braking surface.
The current downside is that no mass production carbon out and out road bikes are being made with discs so the wheelsets are very limited.
If and it is a big if they become UCI legal for road racing I think it will go main stream really quickly.
I'm genuinely surprised at your comment that mech pads are easier to fit. In what way? All the hydro brakes I've ever had have been easy enough to fit and set up. I've serviced two bikes with cable disc so far and found both of them an utter pain, particularly all that fiddling with pad wear compensators and such like.Disc brakes tend to perform better in wet & dry conditions.
Disc rims are usually lighter, therefore using less of your energy to keep rolling.
(It is the revolving mass that tires you.)
I prefer cable/mechanical disc brakes; new pads are easier to fit.
As a bonus of not wearing the rims, you don't get that awful grey slurry on your hands when having to deal with punctures in the wet.
Disc rims are usually lighter, therefore using less of your energy to keep rolling.
(It is the revolving mass that tires you.)
The thing that has me a little puzzled with brakes is how quickly some people are getting through rims, why? I have an old Dawes in the shed that spends most of its time on the turbo these days, it had a wheel upgrade after about twelve months and those wheels are still going strong eight years later. I got rid of a Rayleigh about eighteen months ago, it was ten years old and still on the original wheels. My fixed had a new front wheel, hub problems, on it about two years ago but is still on the original back wheel, both wheels going strong, so how do people wear out their rims so quick? I've been cycling for over forty years and this something recent, so what has changed?