Chain lubrication, the balance of pros versus cons

[DRM]

Oil on a dirty chain is mothers best kitchen recipe for wear.
But it's also oil that leads to that dirty chain.
So it's a circular story.
I broke that circle right there.

Dry lube is the answer to your problem, as long as it's in a dry/dusty environment, in wet conditions it doesn't last very long

 

[simongt]

you can't install it on any regular closed triangle frame designed for chain drive.

Valid point.
On a not dissimilar vein, I recall Sunbeam producing a bike where the chaincase replaced the offside chainstay. Not sure how the disassembly / reassembly worked to replace the chain etc., but the chaincase must have been pretty robust.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I've never noticed a chaincase like that before, just the Raleigh/Rudge etc types. Theoretically, its a logical thing to do, but I doubt it did the weight of the bike any favours - not that manufactirers of old school roadsters seemed overly concerned about weight!.

 

[silva]

It has one massive disadvantage though; you can't install it on any regular closed triangle frame designed for chain drive. Until someone designs a splittable drive belt that can be broken and reconnected just like a chain, the idea is just not going to fly.

The bikes frame is designed for both, the frame is interrupted near the wheels mount, with a connection joint bolted with countersunk torx head metric screws.
So belt was an option, only that after weighting pros / cons, I chosed to not do so. The bikes producer and dealer concluded the same, independently.

 

[silva]

I've never noticed a chaincase like that before, just the Raleigh/Rudge etc types. Theoretically, its a logical thing to do, but I doubt it did the weight of the bike any favours - not that manufactirers of old school roadsters seemed overly concerned about weight!.

The "case" actually doesn't exist as such, it"s a mockup of separate items.
The weight is near to nothing - from corner plates of zipper suitcases, attached along holes drilled in the mudguard, using stiff bent washing line, and the part above the chain (raincover) from a window rubber seal with a special rain diverting cross section.
It also protects the chainring and the rear cog.
The non drive side of the rear wheel, is nearly open. Because I tilted the mudguard towards the drive side.
On purpose, I can then easily wash out mud and snow. The mudguard protrudes *just* enough to the non drive side to reflect the tyre water sideways so not on me or the bike.
It all proved as doing the job.

 

[silva]

Was forced yesterday to put some oil on the chain, it wasn't wet due to rain (the cover works) but condenstion on cold surface at night, brown muck. I did it now the opposite of usual though, instead of oil on it to get it into the joints, then wipe off the outside, the opposite. I put some oil on a finger and wrapped it over the externals.
An idea could be some thermal insulation over the chain when humid air and dropping temp.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I'll have to try pouring oil on the outside of my car engine instead of topping it up and see if it lasts any longer....

 

[mickle]

If you've managed to create a cover which effectively protects your chain from water, then presumably it also protects your chain from dirt....

 

[silva]

I'll have to try pouring oil on the outside of my car engine instead of topping it up and see if it lasts any longer....

Don't forget to remove the engine house as to allow dirt going in, as to be able to make a comparison.
Let me know the results, I'll will throw them for you in your garbage bin.

 

[silva]

If you've managed to create a cover which effectively protects your chain from water, then presumably it also protects your chain from dirt....

My chain stays dry under rain and wet roads, due to cover above it and covers between tyres and transmission.
But sand blown by the wind from the driveside, no.
It then sticks to the chain due to oil on it, then lubrication makes it mobile and it gets into the joints to cause a wear worser than dry metal on metal.
It's alot work to get a chain clean, to be repeated after a single next ride with dirt along.
So to avoid the latter, I decided to cease lubrication, and put just enough oil on it to prevent corrosion due to water condensing on cold surfaces. Abit like how they do with boxes with bolts - just to avoid rust in the magazine until they're used.

 

[mickle]

My chain stays dry under rain and wet roads, due to cover above it and covers between tyres and transmission.
But sand blown by the wind from the driveside, no.
It then sticks to the chain due to oil on it, then lubrication makes it mobile and it gets into the joints to cause a wear worser than dry metal on metal.
It's alot work to get a chain clean, to be repeated after a single next ride with dirt along.
So to avoid the latter, I decided to cease lubrication, and put just enough oil on it to prevent corrosion due to water condensing on cold surfaces. Abit like how they do with boxes with bolts - just to avoid rust in the magazine until they're used.

Do you know who I am?

 

[silva]

Do you know who I am?

The King of Scotland?

 

[Ajax Bay]

Stick to THE @mickle method of lubrication, @silva , if you know what's good for you

 

[PaulSB]

I've read from the opening post. I feel a little bemused.

I find starting with a clean chain, cassette and chain rings works well. To this happy combination I add a drop of Squirt Lube on every roller.

Chain remains clean and lubed.

 

[Blue Hills]

Vaseline and condoms are a poor mix because it weakens the latex

chuckle

well there are of course special lubes for that - quite possibly cheaper than what some contemporary cyclists treat their bikes to in private - me I use this - on chains I hasten to add.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1105331948
bought a litre for around a tenner a while ago.