- Location
- Egham
Maybe, though TBH I have a DeWalt DCF899 impact wrench coming to have a go tomorrow/Sunday, and if that won't shift it my local garage can change the boot for me!
Car D.I.Y.
- Thread starter Drago
- Start date
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Maybe, though TBH I have a DeWalt DCF899 impact wrench coming to have a go tomorrow/Sunday, and if that won't shift it my local garage can change the boot for me!
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
I remember undoing the hub nut on a transit van once, that was a big size. I snapped a colleagues 1/2 Snap On breaker bar trying. He wasnt best pleased
Good luck...
- Location
- Egham
I remember undoing the hub nut on a transit van once, that was a big size. I snapped a colleagues 1/2 Snap On breaker bar trying. He wasnt best pleased
Good luck...
I was expecting an issue. No joy on the lowest setting, wound up to level 3 and it was off in seconds. Awesome tool, bit overkill for wheel nuts but should be helpful for getting the suspension apart on the 240 also.
D
Deleted member 26715
Guest
Make sure you use good quality 6 sided sockets not 12's
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Clutch done last week by clutch man.
I then found then radiators had sold out. eBay to the rescue From a radiator specialist with a 5yr warranty. It's not exactly the same as the OEM but it's equally crappy and fits.
Annoyingly the bottom hose was help on with a spring clip, clearly these are put on before the radiator is installed as there was no was to get a tool onto the clip. It would have made the job a bit easier.
It's a bit of a naff design as the air con radiator sits Infront of the cooling rad. As I split them off the gap between was filled with leaves and crap. I need to remember to clean that.
Refilling was hard work it wouldn't warm up past 75Ā° to burp, but we got there in the end with a brick and a few revs. Not sure I got all the old blue coolant out as my red coolant has gone yellowish. So I'll change it again in a couple of weeks.
I then found then radiators had sold out. eBay to the rescue From a radiator specialist with a 5yr warranty. It's not exactly the same as the OEM but it's equally crappy and fits.
Annoyingly the bottom hose was help on with a spring clip, clearly these are put on before the radiator is installed as there was no was to get a tool onto the clip. It would have made the job a bit easier.
It's a bit of a naff design as the air con radiator sits Infront of the cooling rad. As I split them off the gap between was filled with leaves and crap. I need to remember to clean that.
Refilling was hard work it wouldn't warm up past 75Ā° to burp, but we got there in the end with a brick and a few revs. Not sure I got all the old blue coolant out as my red coolant has gone yellowish. So I'll change it again in a couple of weeks.
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fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
MrsF's Qashqai has been clunking when in lower gears, bit like a thud. The lower dogbone/gearbox stabilising bar had worn - the rubber bushing was split. Ordered a new one for Ā£20, and fitted it in minutes. Did need the piece of box section steel on the end of the breaker bar to act as a 3 foot breaker to undo the two bolts. 
chriswoody
Legendary Member
- Location
- Northern Germany
The electric windows on the Golf have been playing up recently and I was being a bit lazy about getting around to looking at it until last week when the wife mentioned after trying unsuccessfully to get the passenger window to go up, there was a loud bang and the glass slid down into the door. I managed to get the glass back up and fixed into place temporarily whilst I looked into it. Seems the window regulator is to blame and on Golf 4's it comes as part of the inner door panel, which means agro and money. A bit more research revealed you can actually get the regulator separate for just 20 Euro's, so not entirely convinced I was ordering the right thing I put an order in from an online motor factors.
So today I stripped out the door which is a colossal pain in the backside, so many clips, electrical connectors and fittings and of course each fitting is different, Torx 20, 30 and PH2 are just some of the sizes we found! First the inner panel comes off, then undo the window clamps through a tiny circular hatch, then remove the metal inner door panel.
The actual regulator is riveted to the inside of the metal panel, which need drilling out to release it. luckily though the new one comes with threaded inserts and bolts which just bolt through the original rivet holes. The old broken VW one below shows the metal clamps that should be attached to the white plastic runners on the regulator, as well as the window. The plastic has exploded though, leaving the clamps floating free of the regulator.
Popping everything back together was just as hellish, there where several times when I wished I had three hands. I was quite relieved after re-assembly to find that it all worked seamlessly, we have a working passenger window again. I then stripped down the drivers door side to investigate why that one was also playing up.
Basically the same issue as the other side, with a broken plastic runner no longer attached to the metal window clamp, however, the second clamp was still working on this side, so the window was still working after a fashion. I haven't bought a new regulator for this side yet, because I hadn't realised this one was also broken, but a new one is on order. Using plastic for this is VW cost cutting at it's finest, the new replacement regulator uses a cast metal part for both the clamp and the carrier though, so a good upgrade.
So today I stripped out the door which is a colossal pain in the backside, so many clips, electrical connectors and fittings and of course each fitting is different, Torx 20, 30 and PH2 are just some of the sizes we found! First the inner panel comes off, then undo the window clamps through a tiny circular hatch, then remove the metal inner door panel.
The actual regulator is riveted to the inside of the metal panel, which need drilling out to release it. luckily though the new one comes with threaded inserts and bolts which just bolt through the original rivet holes. The old broken VW one below shows the metal clamps that should be attached to the white plastic runners on the regulator, as well as the window. The plastic has exploded though, leaving the clamps floating free of the regulator.
Popping everything back together was just as hellish, there where several times when I wished I had three hands. I was quite relieved after re-assembly to find that it all worked seamlessly, we have a working passenger window again. I then stripped down the drivers door side to investigate why that one was also playing up.
Basically the same issue as the other side, with a broken plastic runner no longer attached to the metal window clamp, however, the second clamp was still working on this side, so the window was still working after a fashion. I haven't bought a new regulator for this side yet, because I hadn't realised this one was also broken, but a new one is on order. Using plastic for this is VW cost cutting at it's finest, the new replacement regulator uses a cast metal part for both the clamp and the carrier though, so a good upgrade.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Got a job to do on mine - I've LED replacement bulbs in the stop/tail but noticed one wasn't very bright. First job, pop the lights off, open up and squirt with brake cleaner on the contacts. If that doesn't work, new bulbs.
Did a similar job on my Disco 4 , but it was the central locking. Fairly easy to strip down the door on mine. However plenty stuff with stupids clips which can break. Got the other door to do. It putting it off as has planned to get rid of the car .
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
My single most hated "car job" is stripping off a door. Along with possibly doing anything on top of the pedalbox.
Im not a fan of interior trim jobs really. I need to strip out the centre console from my i40 to get at the back of the electric handbrake switch which is loose.
All in I can't see the attraction of the electric handbrake.
My mate had an old bubble shape fester that the window kept dropping on. After a few months of getting a wet arse we used tiger seal to stick the glass up.
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Iāve got a Golf with an electric hand brake and BMW with a regular hand brake, Iāll take electric all day long
Ā£1500 to fix my electromechanical handbrake on my Disco4 due to a ham fisted back street mechanic . You live and learn
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Go on... Sell it to me?
I just don't feel I have the control I do with a propper brake. I'm the type that puts the handbrake on for a hill start or a red light.
It's good practice anyway, but I always point the wheels to the kerb on a gradient with the electric.
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Ā£1500 to fix my electromechanical handbrake on my Disco4 due to a ham fisted back street mechanic . You live and learn
Luckily mine wind back with a big hex key in the back of the caliper and it all seems pretty simple. Then again Ā£1500 would buy me a third of the car let alone a couple of calipers.
