2021 Brompton C-Line Explore

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OP
OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Creaking from the front end has been increasingly a feature on recent rides, and today I actually remembered to do something about it when off the bike.

Once home - aided by AC/DC, Asahi and a hairdryer - I sweated some Dr. Wafter's patent paste wax into the stem / handlebar joint; working it in by rotating the bars in the clamp once the bolt had been slackened off.

I also added a smear of wax to the mating faces of the hinged sections at the frame and stem, as well as bleeding a bit of oil into the hinge joints in these areas.

A quick creak-free thrash round the village suggested that my efforts had been successful; I guess time will tell :smile:
 
OP
OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Noticed some waggle in the headset today; using the usual method of attempting to shunt the bars back and forward with the front brake applied and looking out for rattling / slop.

Once home I slackened off the locking nut, nipped up the top headset cup and wound the locking nut back down. Not sure if the slop was from legit wear or the locking nut loosening because I did a crap job last time. I only have one 36mm cone spanner so can't tighten the nut down hard while restraining the top cup; although that might not be a bad thing...

Satisfyingly all this was achieved without any cosmetic damage to the somewhat fragile edges of the black-finished parts, as care was taken and the cone spanner separated from the parts on the bike by a thin strip of ally shim cut from a beverage container...
 
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a.twiddler

Veteran
A lot of unexpected movement can be traced to the rear triangle clip set up as there is quite a bit slack in it. I soon learned that this is normal for Bromptons. I have several times thought that my headset has loosened when pushing it then applying the back brake. Usually when I start using it after a spell of using my other bikes. Pushing it then applying the front brake soon reassures me that all is well.

An actual bit of wear has existed in the rear triangle hinge since I bought it though a small amount of play seems to be considered acceptable. After all, it was bought used, with an unknown history. It's not something that was noticeable when riding. More recently though I've been thinking that for peace of mind, I'd like to get it done, as though my Brompton isn't immaculate, it's nice to know that all the mechanical parts are sound.

As I was looking at a non-Brompton folder in a branch of Halfords I brought the subject up with a chap from the workshop. He was quite down to earth. He said that none of their customers had needed to get their rear hinge done yet. He admitted that it was quite possible that it was because they'd not been a Brompton dealer for long enough for there to be a demand for it. ie, none of their customers had worn one out yet. The specialised reamer that Brompton recommends wasn't something that was part of their tool kit, in this one or any other of their 400 stores.
I said that I thought that was a rather circular argument, if you couldn't do the job then you wouldn't get customers asking you to do it. He said that was their position at the moment, it could change in the future.

After looking into it on line and looking for the specific tool the best I could find was on Amazon for £50 or so. The parts kit seems easily available for £24.00. Normally I would have a go at something like this myself but in this case I'd rather leave it in the hands of someone who'd done a few previously. After ringing round I realised that I was living in a bit of a Brompton dealership desert but eventually got a response from The Bike Factory, Chester. (I have no connection with this company. I just include it here in case someone else in the area is in the same situation). Booked in about a week in advance, done the same day. Cost, £47.00 which seems reasonable to me. I asked if they got many of these rear hinge jobs in. The reply was that they came in batches, they might have nothing for months, then several in a short time.

Interesting to see their stock of Bromptons, including the 12 speeder. Ooo! shiny bikes! Must. Resist. Temptation. Readers will have realised by this point that I obviously don't get out much, certainly to bike dealerships, anyway.
 

Kell

Veteran
I took mine back to where I got it after a couple of years as I thought the rear triangle was excessively loose.

The response I got was pretty much "they all do that sir, and it's not the worst I've seen."

I just wanted to ensure it wasn't going to suddenly go as part of my commute is a 40+ mph downhill. They were almost dismissive. But they were also right. it's not got any worse over the intervening 6 years.
 
OP
OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
A lot of unexpected movement can be traced to the rear triangle clip set up as there is quite a bit slack in it. I soon learned that this is normal for Bromptons. I have several times thought that my headset has loosened when pushing it then applying the back brake. Usually when I start using it after a spell of using my other bikes. Pushing it then applying the front brake soon reassures me that all is well.

An actual bit of wear has existed in the rear triangle hinge since I bought it though a small amount of play seems to be considered acceptable. After all, it was bought used, with an unknown history. It's not something that was noticeable when riding. More recently though I've been thinking that for peace of mind, I'd like to get it done, as though my Brompton isn't immaculate, it's nice to know that all the mechanical parts are sound.

As I was looking at a non-Brompton folder in a branch of Halfords I brought the subject up with a chap from the workshop. He was quite down to earth. He said that none of their customers had needed to get their rear hinge done yet. He admitted that it was quite possible that it was because they'd not been a Brompton dealer for long enough for there to be a demand for it. ie, none of their customers had worn one out yet. The specialised reamer that Brompton recommends wasn't something that was part of their tool kit, in this one or any other of their 400 stores.
I said that I thought that was a rather circular argument, if you couldn't do the job then you wouldn't get customers asking you to do it. He said that was their position at the moment, it could change in the future.

After looking into it on line and looking for the specific tool the best I could find was on Amazon for £50 or so. The parts kit seems easily available for £24.00. Normally I would have a go at something like this myself but in this case I'd rather leave it in the hands of someone who'd done a few previously. After ringing round I realised that I was living in a bit of a Brompton dealership desert but eventually got a response from The Bike Factory, Chester. (I have no connection with this company. I just include it here in case someone else in the area is in the same situation). Booked in about a week in advance, done the same day. Cost, £47.00 which seems reasonable to me. I asked if they got many of these rear hinge jobs in. The reply was that they came in batches, they might have nothing for months, then several in a short time.

Interesting to see their stock of Bromptons, including the 12 speeder. Ooo! shiny bikes! Must. Resist. Temptation. Readers will have realised by this point that I obviously don't get out much, certainly to bike dealerships, anyway.
Yes; if testing the headset as one would with a "normal" bike you have to be mindful of the noise and movement from the back end; which is irrelevant if perhaps un-nerving! This can be avoided by lifting the back slightly while you do the test.

Good work with the hinge; tbh this sort of stuff worries me as I don't trust anyone to work on my gear and tend to just buy the tools to do the job myself... however, this and the hinge pins might be a bridge too far and I'm dreading the day they need attention..


I took mine back to where I got it after a couple of years as I thought the rear triangle was excessively loose.

The response I got was pretty much "they all do that sir, and it's not the worst I've seen."

I just wanted to ensure it wasn't going to suddenly go as part of my commute is a 40+ mph downhill. They were almost dismissive. But they were also right. it's not got any worse over the intervening 6 years.
Indeed; it's just slop in the latch assy. You could tighten it up, but eventually you'd get to the point where it made the latch operation unreliable.. while perhaps a bit irritating it's not indicitive of a problem and is probably best viewed as the application of Kalashnikov's attitude to tolerancing - i.e. if it's not important, make it huge :tongue:


Today's little impulsive distraction was the stem. Having applied wax to various potentially creaky areas recently with apparant success, life has once more been blighted by noise from the front end under power. Aware that the bike's seen nearly a year's worth of service in all weathers with zero inspection in this area, I pulled the stem using the usual approach applied to the B's unusual format.

Bike folded, stem bolt slackened a turn, twatted with a hammer via a brass punch inserted into the bolt's hex to free off the wedge, then the whole assy withdrawn from the fork.

Thankfully nowt to see here; the whole assy being free from obvious wear, corrosion and contamination (largely, some grit on the lower face nothwithstanding) and covered in a decent coating of fairly sticky yellow grease.

12x8_IMG_8969a.jpg



After a bit of research I learned that this setup is the current stem format, changing from the earlier "expander cone" arrangement to this wedge-based ensemble in 2019.

12x8_IMG_8972a.jpg



As such the stem itself appears different; so complete assys are probably interchangeable but individual parts are not (for the record that's wax not damage on the clamp ;) )..

12x8_IMG_8974a.jpg



The grease and grit on the stem were gently cleaned off and the bore of the fork probed with a finger to remove any grit without fully removing the corrosion-resisting grease present. Copper grease was applied to the wedge assy and it stuffed back down the fork; the bolt tightened to 80% of the 30Nm value found on the net once the previously-applied pencil marks on the stem and headset bearing locking nut had been aligned.

A quick test ride confirmed it doesn't squeak, however that was the case last time..


In other news the bike's now passed the 2000 mile mark with no additional drama; saving me about £350 in fuel / 2.5k car-miles so far. Now the seasons are becoming more accommodating it's once-more starting to feel like a privilege to be out on the little bleeder rather than a necessary chore.

On top of that it's facilitated by far the most winter miles I've ever done; so has no doubt helped to maintain what little fitness I have during the colder months and offset to a degree the repercussions of my many and growing number of unhealthy habits :smile:
 
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tinywheels

Über Member
Location
South of hades
Yes; if testing the headset as one would with a "normal" bike you have to be mindful of the noise and movement from the back end; which is irrelevant if perhaps un-nerving! This can be avoided by lifting the back slightly while you do the test.

Good work with the hinge; tbh this sort of stuff worries me as I don't trust anyone to work on my gear and tend to just buy the tools to do the job myself... however, this and the hinge pins might be a bridge too far and I'm dreading the day they need attention..



Indeed; it's just slop in the latch assy. You could tighten it up, but eventually you'd get to the point where it made the latch operation unreliable.. while perhaps a bit irritating it's not indicitive of a problem and is probably best viewed as the application of Kalashnikov's attitude to tolerancing - i.e. if it's not important, make it huge :tongue:


Today's little impulsive distraction was the stem. Having applied wax to various potentially creaky areas recently with apparant success, life has once more been blighted by noise from the front end under power. Aware that the bike's seen nearly a year's worth of service in all weathers with zero inspection in this area, I pulled the stem using the usual approach applied to the B's unusual format.

Bike folded, stem bolt slackened a turn, twatted with a hammer via a brass punch inserted into the bolt's hex to free off the wedge, then the whole assy withdrawn from the fork.

Thankfully nowt to see here; the whole assy being free from obvious wear, corrosion and contamination (largely, some grit on the lower face nothwithstanding) and covered in a decent coating of fairly sticky yellow grease.

View attachment 725922


After a bit of research I learned that this setup is the current stem format, changing from the earlier "expander cone" arrangement to this wedge-based ensemble in 2019.

View attachment 725923


As such the stem itself appears different; so complete assys are probably interchangeable but individual parts are not (for the record that's wax not damage on the clamp ;) )..

View attachment 725924


The grease and grit on the stem were gently cleaned off and the bore of the fork probed with a finger to remove any grit without fully removing the corrosion-resisting grease present. Copper grease was applied to the wedge assy and it stuffed back down the fork; the bolt tightened to 80% of the 30Nm value found on the net once the previously-applied pencil marks on the stem and headset bearing locking nut had been aligned.

A quick test ride confirmed it doesn't squeak, however that was the case last time..


In other news the bike's now passed the 2000 mile mark with no additional drama; saving me about £350 in fuel / 2.5k car-miles so far. Now the seasons are becoming more accommodating it's once-more starting to feel like a privilege to be out on the little bleeder rather than a necessary chore.

On top of that it's facilitated by far the most winter miles I've ever done; so has no doubt helped to maintain what little fitness I have during the colder months and offset to a degree the repercussions of my many and growing number of unhealthy habits :smile:

unhealthy habits! whatever next?

17143988217734648657245564982260.jpg
 
OP
OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Short of being ridden mercilessly the bike's seen little attention recently.

Today however I allowed myself the treat of measuring its two chains; something I find more interesting and rewarding than I probably should...

The bike's original SRAM and supplemental KMC E8 chains are both in similar states - around 1100 miles in, 200 miles since their last wax. They've both been through the wax pan a comparable number of times (maybe 6-8) and the KMC has seen the bulk of winter use.

I pulled the SRAM off the bike and hung the two chains next to each other for a visual comparison. This suggested very little difference in elongation; the KMC (RHS) showing maybe a shade more...

12x8_IMG_9241a.jpg



Laid down and straightened as best as possible next to a steel tape (yeah, I know the method's sketchy but it's as good as it gives a reasonable ballpark indication with care) I attempted to measure between the ends of the 49.5 links..

SRAM:

12x8_IMG_9249a.jpg


12x8_IMG_9251a.jpg



KMC:

12x8_IMG_9261a.jpg


12x8_IMG_9262a.jpg



Both chains came in at around / a bit short of 1/16" elongated, the KMC maybe a little less. This is equivalent to about 0.12% wear, so around a quarter towards the prescribed 0.5% limit and suggesting each chain should last in the region of 4500 miles :smile:



While I've found that one of the few areas waxing is inferior to oil is corrosion protection these chains have held up really well visually. They do squeak when they get wet (or rather once they've got wet and dried out), and this usually results in visible light rust around areas of wear, but there are no obvious blooms on any of the external surfaces (the KMC flaunts an anti-corrosion coating but the SRAM is more vanilla).

I just brush the chains off and re-wax; causing the rust to pretty much disappear. I do wonder if the light etching of the surface from the corrosion might help next wax application to stick, and I reckon it would be an interesting exercise to try waxing a thoroughly rusted chain..




12x8_IMG_9253a.jpg


12x8_IMG_9254a.jpg


12x8_IMG_9265a.jpg


:smile:
 
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OP
OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Mid-June marked a year of commuting on the Brompton.

In the preceding twelve months it's done circa 140 days of commuting in all weathers, covering around 2700 miles in total (most, but not all on the commute).

This has saved around 3000 miles travelled in the car, around 300 litres or £450 in fuel along with all the associated, unquantifiable wear. This is about a third of the total distance I would have travelled on four wheels, so if we assume mileage-related factors ultimately bring about its demise the bike should extend the car's life by around 50%..

Across all of my bikes I've covered around 3750 miles in the time I've been commuting on the Brompton, which I think is the most I've ever ridden in any 12 month period. My cardio health feels good, my legs look and feel stronger and more defined than I've ever known. I shudder to think where my mental health would be if I'd had to endure the commute in the car for the past year.



A few weekends ago the bike got a birthday - join me for a wonky, disjointed and OCD-fuelled rendition of how it's fared after 12 months and 2.7k miles of all-weather use :smile:


The bike hadn't had a bath since around six months and 1400 miles ago in mid-December, so was pretty grubby. Short story being that the wheels were pulled, stripped, washed separately and rims waxed... the rest chucked in the Park workstand, thoroughly cleaned and waxed; along with being checked over with attempts made to address any issues..


The fork assy covered in grime; the bit of PVC tape still doing a good job of protecting it from cable rub.

12x8_IMG_9531a.jpg



The back end was similarly filthy, although in some areas I think markedly better than it might have been thanks to the extended mudflap on the front.. although it's probably not made that much difference this far back. I notice that the bike is somewhat reluctant to shift sprockets if its dirty, which I suspect is due to filth limiting the travel of the guide...

12x8_IMG_9533a.jpg



The mud in the rear guard was a real pig to get out; I only realised mid-scrub that this was probably due to the presence of tyre sealant lost during various punctures..

On top of that there's wear at the stay mount from contact with the tyre - I've had to resolve rubbing here several times; I think as the result of the guard's constant impact with the ground during folding gradually bending the stays and pushing it closer to the tyre.

12x8_IMG_9542a.jpg



The budget PVC frame tape had generally held up pretty well, other than on the stem and underside of the main frame that contacts the rear wheel when folded; causing it to migrate:

12x8_IMG_9528a.jpg


As one would expect the finish has completely worn off the mating faces opposite to the frame's hinge; with a little light surface corrosion which is to be expected; and thankfully doesn't appear to be creeping under the remaining finish.

12x8_IMG_9548a.jpg


More disappointingly the inside of the frame shows obvious corrosion (hard to photograph but that on the sock is an example of what was present). The rust is light and certainly not structural, but there none-the-less. Evidently despite their marketing bluster Brompton refuse to apply an effective anti-corrosion treatment to the inside of the frame during manufacture; which I think is pretty bloody poor. Cavity wax is on the list..

Unfortunately there is now detectable slop in the hinge pin; it doesn't appear excessive but there's definitely more play than when new - maybe 0.5mm vertical movement between both sides at the mating faces on the LHS of the bike. I'm not sure what's considered normal, so would be interested to hear from other owners on this subject...

The bought, 3D-printed insert in the clamp (to aid alignment) works most of the time but has been a bit sketchy and I'm not hugely impressed..


Moving back to the rear post-clean it was evident that the chain has been striking the rear frame assy near the dropout - both at the leading edge of the flat section and the inside end of the chainstay - resulting in loss of finish in both cases and corrosion on the droput..

12x8_IMG_9553a.jpg



This is both disappointing and somewhat bizarre - I can only assume this is happening during shifting - perhaps moving from the 13T sprocket on account of its deeper teeth..?


The flaking finish was removed from the dropout (which I now can't unsee as approximating a startled seahorse), before the corrosion was treated with successive applications of 85% phosphoric acid - which worked beautifully to get it back to bare metal.

12x8_IMG_9571a.jpg



A sharp edge was tickled with a fine file before the whole lot was degreased and touched up with gloss black paint (by which time it'd gotten too dark to get decent photos). I also treated and painted a couple of other spots - including the end of the chainstay, stem hinge and inside of the fork where something had rubbed..

Having just checked the dropout (some few hundred miles later) the edge of the flat plate seems all good, while the finish is again damaged on the chainstay. Might abuse Brompton over this as it's pretty crap..


The seatpost was removed, cleaned, waxed and refitted - showing considerable wear at the base where it's clamped in the frame during use. The bung in the end has also taken a bit of a beating, although I guess this is to be expected.

12x8_IMG_9578a.jpg



While to an extent the abrasion to the seatpost is inevitable due to movement between components during pedalling, it's doubtless made so much worse by the contamination that finds its way onto the post after being thrown up into the underside of the seatpost tube in the frame by the front wheel. Thankfully this seems to have largely been eliminated by fitting the extension to the mudflap; although I suspect there are still plenty of abrasive particles remaining embedded in the plastic seatpost sleeve that continue to cause damage..

Again this problem shouldn't even be an issue and if left un-addressed this impromptu grinding paste between the seatpost and tube will cause serious damage to the frame as the finish is destroyed and corrosion sets in :sad:


Moving onto other areas, the brake pads were checked and re-aligned; the fronts being noticeably worn more on one side than the other - I suspect due to caliper mis-alignment.

12x8_IMG_9579a.jpg



Rim thickness was measured; varying (from memory) from about 23.0mm to 23.6mm at the inside and outside of the rim respectively. I assume these were probably 24mm nomnial when new..? The rear was similar if a bit more worn - I suspect despite the fact the front brake is used more / does more work, the rear wears quicker as it seems a greater amount of abrasive corrosion on the rim thanks to the marginal effectiveness of the mudguard...

While I'm largely unconcerned about not having washed the bike for six months, the rims are probably one area that would have benefitted from contamination being removed to reduce corresponding abrasion; something I'll aim to stay on top of in future even if it's just a quick swill of the wheels and brakes.
 
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OP
OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
This gash in the front tyre is indicitive of its very hard life; having been on the bike since new and covering around 1400 miles on the rear before being swapped to the front for another 1300 miles as it was too knackered to support tubeless operation.

12x8_IMG_9506a.jpg


I appreciate that the sensible option would be to replace the tyre however I'm tight and hate waste.. The gash gets checked regularly and doesn't appear to be growing any further; but maybe one day it'll catch me out. I'd like to sew it up but this requires research and effort; neither of which are particularly achievable currently.

The tyre is covered with evidently superficial damage from sharp objects; while it also displays in lots of smaller fissures. I'm not sure what the cause of these is - UV damage or being run at inappropriate pressures perhaps?


The tyre on the rear looks a lot better with the damage pictured being the worst area. This is unsurprising as it's only been fitted for about 700 miles / 2.5 months, so only a quarter of the distance of the other, plus it hasn't had to endure a winter which typically brings far more puncture hazards.

12x8_IMG_9508a.jpg



the rear is running council tubeless and has to date covered around 800 miles without incident; however it's had an easy ride so far. I won't labour the subject with painful details - suffice to say that my experience with forcing tubeless upon the little toff-o-skate has so far proven "inconclusive".

The previous tyre was replaced due to complications arising from a puncture, rather than wear, in case anyone was wondering.


While the wheels were off the sprockets were removed, cleaned and inspected. Running the waxed chains I've become fascinated with drivetrain wear / somewhat obsessed with prolonging its life as much as possible. Thanks to the wax everything was pretty clean and in decent nick; the worst being some lightish corrosion on the spacer between the sprockets and the snap-ring that retains them..

12x8_IMG_9468a.jpg



The sprockets are visibly mis-matched. The 16T has the form of a typical multi-speed sprocket with thinner sections / ramps to promote shifting, while the tops of the teeth are clipped flat. The teeth are 1.8mm at their thickest, 1,2mm at the shift ramps. Conversely the 13T sprocket looks much more like something you'd find on a single-speed, with deep, full-profile teeth, no shift ramps and an overall thickness of around 2.2mm at the teeth.

Front / outside face:

12x8_IMG_9476a.jpg



Rear / inside face:

12x8_IMG_9477a.jpg



With the sprockets off I was keen to get a better look at the wear present.

Below is the drive-side (i.e. the face that contacts the chain under load during pedalling) of one of the teeth on the 13T sprocket.

Note the smooth area of wear extending up the tooth from its base, stoppng short of the top section - which is far rougher and presumably remains untouched since the part was pressed during manufacture.


12x8_IMG_9480a.jpg




The outside face of the 13T sprocket; as it would appear when viewed from the drive side of the bike, with the LH flanks of the teeth being those subject to drive from the chain.

It can be seen that the area of wear from chain contact is gradually eating into the side of the tooth, although they seem to have plenty of meat left on them currently. Note also the relatively fine, polished finish on all surfaces of the tooth that come into contact with the chain; with only a few rougher, as-manufactured spots remaining near the tips of the teeth.

12x8_IMG_9488a.jpg



Unlike the 13T sprocket, the shorter, thinner teeth of the 16T sprocket show wear over their entire drive face, right to the top of the tooth.

12x8_IMG_9499a.jpg



While harder to gauge, when viewed from the side it appears that these teeth haven't worn excessively either, yet..

12x8_IMG_9494a.jpg



Placing the two sprockets side-by-side illustrates the difference in tooth profile and wear characteristics:

12x8_IMG_9501a.jpg
 
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OP
OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
12x8_IMG_9504a.jpg



Generally I'm very pleased with the way the waxed drivetrain has performed so far, considering that many expect to get around 2k miles out of both the chain and set of sprockets. So far these have lasted for 2.8k with tangible but limited signs of wear to the sprockets; while the two chains currently look like they'll do about 5k miles each before requiring replacement.

As an aside since it's been so dry recently I've actually managed to get 350 miles out of the current wax application; while historically it's always been sabotaged by rain which has required much more frequent trips into the pan.

Once clean everything was chucked back together with a bit of wax paste on the adjacent parts in an effort to limit corrosion, and a few drops of mineral oil into the hole in the end of the axle..

12x8_IMG_9594a.jpg



Once everything was back together a few other little bits were done, then the bike set aside ready for the next commute. The following Monday I packed the big boy camera and left the house early with the hope of getting some detail shots at the beginning and end of the day...


Thankfully the main frame has generally survived very well, with minimal cosmetic damage and issues being limited to the slight slop in the hinge pin, light (if prevelent) surface corrosion inside and a bit of abrasion (thankfully not through the finish) on the inside of the seatpost tube, thanks to the gritty seatpost.

One area I'd not paid attention to was the rear face of the seatpost clamp, where the buffer of the rear triangle contacts the frame. Unfortunarely this has worn through the finish on the lower edge; not the end of the world but in retrospect it would have been prudent to have applied some protection tape here:

12x8_IMG_6177a.jpg



All is largely good at the bottom bracket - the brass plate has remained in place and now has a nice dulled patina, aside from the area that's regularly polished by the folded wheel. Likewise the piece of PVC tape above has fared very well and the split PVC hose on the cable retainer has done a great job of protecting this area of the frame.

12x8_IMG_6203a.jpg



The single piece of factory-applied transparent protection tape on the seatpost tube opposite the cable retainer (not shown) remains intact, although has come away from the frame in the area of contact with the cables, so will likely require replacing at some point.. ideally with a brass plate although I'm not sure I can stomach making any more of these.

As with every other area of factory-provisioned protection on the bike this thin piece of film doesn't seem particularly fit for purpose - although I guess it's lasted longer than the hapless piece originally found on the chainstay, before disintegrating after about five folds.


While the stop-gap PVC / gaffa tape mashup on the side of the main tube had done a good job of preventing cable rub it looked tatty so since the bike was clean I finally pulled my finger out and replaced it with some of the transparent protection tape I'd bought.

This came in a 100mm wide roll (this offering the best value) and was cut into 24mm strips of appropriate length - 160mm for behind the hinge, about 30mm in front. 6mm-ish rads at the corners were drawn onto the backer by tracing around a socket before being freestyled with scissors. I also added a similar piece to the underside of the frame in place of the wandering PVC tape that was there previously, and a bit on the stem as the tape here had suffered a similar fate..

I'm really pleased with how this turned out - barely visible in some cases (as below), nice and thick and decently priced - certainly a lot more reasonable than the eye-wateringly priced "proper" 3M heli-tape. If I had to be picky there are some texture-like inclusions inside the tape that render it slightly opaque, but given the price this is a non-issue.

12x8_IMG_6191a.jpg



Moving back to the rear of the BB wedge we can see that the brass plate in this area has also fared very well, remaining firmly attached and showing scuffs from the cables that would otherwise likely have made their way through the frame's finish by now.

Just above it on the drive side we can also see the piece of transparent protection tape applied to the rear frame; which seems to have done an excellent job of both remaining in place and preventing damage to the finish beneath.

12x8_IMG_6210a.jpg



The final brass plate on the DS chainstay has also fared very well; wear from the fork hook when folded appears just cosmetic on the inside and bottom, however on the outside the hook evidently contacts the plate on its edge which has caused tangible ( if not catastrophic) wear.

Were I fitting the plate again I'd rotate it slightly around the axis of the chainstay to move its edge away from the contact point with the hook..

12x8_IMG_9521a.jpg


12x8_IMG_6196a.jpg



Moving away from the main bits of the bike towards the finishing kit, we can see that the roller on the rear mudguard has had a hammering and displays a lot of surface damage; no doubt from being constantly folded on rough / gravelly ground - sorry about that!

In addition the top of the guard is very badly scuffed; presumably for the same reason as it's bound to contact something hard unless being folded on dead-flat ground. I do have a replacement guard but am in no hurry to fit it with out any appropriate protection as it'll only end up the same..

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I've not got around to replacing the front guard either so this still displays the big split in the back that was present when I bought the bike.. although this doesn't affect its function. there's also a massive area of cable rub from the brake cable.. so when the new one's fitted it'll want some tape here!
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Looking at some of the other bits of finishing kit in areas of contact the Genesis saddle has unsurprisingly fared well.. although that's not really relevant to most since it's a retro-fit replacement for the somewhat cack Fizik original. There is a bit of wear on the leading edges of the clamp; presumably from my trousers as a result of having the saddle set so far back to accommodate my supermodel-esque proportions..

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I'm now on my second rear light after the clip on the first broke and the back fell off, complete with batteries.. however that's hardly the bike's fault..


On to the handlebar assy, with mixed results. The notiously fragile grips appear to have fared especially badly; having worn significantly at the contact points. I suspect this is because they're natural rubber and their degradtion has been accelerated by the Vaseline I lather myself in to slow my descent towards becoming a dessicated husk.

The finish on the brake levers is just starting to wear through to bare metal in areas of finger contact; more-so on the RHS which at least validates my attempts to prioritise use of the front brake - even if pad / rim wear don't corroborate this. This would have been less noticeable on the silver-finished variants but it's no big deal. While damage makes me sad, legit wear I can handle..

The black finish on the bell has chipped from use / scratched in a few places revealing the brass beneath, but this is no big deal; especially considering it's in-keeping with the colour scheme of the bike.

Despite numerous violent crossings of cattle grids at speed the lovely 3D-printed Polar mount remains intact and giving fine service :smile:

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Like the brake levers wear on the contact surfaces of the pedals is more conspicuous against the black finish, but again no issue. Finally after around a million-plus rotations the pedals now spin reasonably freely, the initially-very-notchy bearings having finally worn in.

Less pleasantly there's evidence of corrosion at the pedal mount in the crank; I wonder if this is due to galvanic action between the two parts and I suppose I should really remove them, clean them up and refit with some appropriate grease..

Similarly many other fixings on the bike are showing signs of corrosion, including those on the chainring, brakes and the caliper springs.. it's not rampant (yet) but looks a bit shonky.

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So there we go. On the whole nothing has actually worn out and most wear parts seem to have an amount of life left in them. The bigger, ore fundamental bits seem to have lasted reasonably well although I suspect this wouldn't have been the case had significant measures not been taken early-on to protect them. There are still bits that need doing, which hopefully I'll work my way through in time..

The bike has generally served me very well in the past year and has really done a lot to improve my quality of life beyond simply escaping the vile commute in the car.


Finally a few shots of the steed from its first squeaky clean outing in a long time :smile:


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annedonnelly

Girl from the North Country
You've done really well using it so much during the winter. I remember when you bought it you seemed reluctant to ride in the worst of the winter weather. And when you're doing part of the commute by car there must be times when it is tempting just to drive the whole way, despite the horrors of the traffic.
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
You've done really well using it so much during the winter. I remember when you bought it you seemed reluctant to ride in the worst of the winter weather. And when you're doing part of the commute by car there must be times when it is tempting just to drive the whole way, despite the horrors of the traffic.

Thanks! Tbh I think I got away with a relatively mild winter; temperatures could have been worse, very little ice / snow while I managed to avoid any rain during the coldest bits.

Maybe had it been worse I'd have seriously considered the car; however as it was I never gave it a thought.. such has that journey traumatised me in the past :sad:
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Definitely the best news is what it appears to be doing for your mental well-being.

I think cycling at the end of the day especially, helps me to switch off from work.

Indeed... it's not the only potential factor at play and granted at its most manageable being the middle of summer... but everything feels just about OK currently; which is the best it's been for a long time :smile:
 
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