Winter protection for my bike ?

[Racing roadkill]

Nonesense. If you replace the chain regularly the cassette won't need changing at the same frequeny

Wow, there speaks the obvious voice of experience.

Go away, actually try changing a few chains with old cassettes, then come back when you know of what you speak. If the chain fails after only a few miles, then obviously the cassette won't have had time to wear sufficiently, otherwise

To your "nonsense" post.

 

[Supersuperleeds]

Seriously? You're endorsing taking your bike to the lbs for new brake pads fitting? I'm disappointed in the pair of you....

The last time I tried to change the pads on my Tricross the whole disc brake came apart, so my lbs get the job.

They do it while I wait and rarely charge me any labour, so I'm more than happy.

 

[EasyPeez]

The last time I tried to change the pads on my Tricross the whole disc brake came apart, so my lbs get the job.

They do it while I wait and rarely charge me any labour, so I'm more than happy.

Avid BBs?

Changing pads on my Spyres is a doddle but I haven't had cause to change the pads on my Avids yet so will hold off on any further ridicule until I see what a mess I make of it myself...

 

[Jody]

@Racing roadkill Your right as always! I have never changed a chain or cassette ever.

 

[Racing roadkill]

The last time I tried to change the pads on my Tricross the whole disc brake came apart, so my lbs get the job.

They do it while I wait and rarely charge me any labour, so I'm more than happy.

Yes indeed. Sometimes disc brake set ups can be a right Royal PITA. I've had a few of the little parts fly off the disc brakes in the past, never to be seen again. And if the hydraulics need bleeding, well that can go forth and multiply as well.

 

[Racing roadkill]

@Racing roadkill I have never changed a chain or cassette ever.

Obviously not.

 

[EasyPeez]

Nonesense. If you replace the chain regularly the cassette won't need changing at the same frequency



Which means your chain has gone to far and prematurely worn the cassette

My experience is the same as yours. I change at +.75 too and am on my second chain on my current cassette with no issues, hope and expect to use another chain on there before changing cassette. Never had a problem with skipping or skating except when I first (in my newbie naivety) ran a chain for too long and it started skating. At that point I changed the two items together. Cheers.

 

[Supersuperleeds]

Avid BBs?

Changing pads on my Spyres is a doddle but I haven't had cause to change the pads on my Avids yet so will hold off on any further ridicule until I see what a mess I make of it myself...

I'm okay being ridiculed

I don't know what discs they are, they aren't the originals as I replaced them this year and I can't remember what I changed them to, yes the lbs did it for me!

 

[Supersuperleeds]

On the chain/cassette issue I must admit my chain and cassettes get changed together, though they do a lot of miles before they get changed.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Cassettes and chains do not wear at the same rate (rate measured in: per number of miles done). After fitting a new cassette and a new chain (assuming of similar decent quality), you can expect good performance (ie no slipping) for 3000km+ (YMMV) until the chain gets to/closely approaches the 0.75% elongation point. At that point the cassette/chain will continue to operate (and this is what @Racing roadkill must be doing) but the cassette will quickly wear, and sooner or later (say another 1000km, maybe more, probably less) the slipping will start. If you just put a new chain on, it will slip (as @Racing roadkill has discerned, so he replaces the cassette at the same time - entirely reasonable, based on the experience he has (and possesses loadsamoney to buy a new cassette twice as often (mileage-wise) as Mr Sensible (see below)). I suggest that @Supersuperleeds is adopting the same regime and inevitably has the same experience.
But if Mr Sensible replaces the chain when it gets to/closely approaches the 0.75% elongation point (which is the widespread recognised best practice), then the part used cassette and the new chain will be fine (no bedding in required - what do you think is bedding in), and you should get another 'normal' distance life out of that chain too.
Mr Lucky (or maybe one who diligently changes at the 0.7% point) will get a third chain's worth of use out of the cassette.
Then change both, and start the cycle again. Happy non-slip riding. Here's one rider's experience.

Today my chain started slipping in the 5th and 6th cog on my 10 speed. All others are fine. My chain is clean and lubricated, done 2000 miles and isn't even showing 0.75% stretch on the tool.
My cassette (105-5700) has done 10250 miles, but doesn't look worn. It's had 4 other chains, always replaced before 1% stretch. Those two cogs are probably the most used.

I'm about to change my chain for a second time, on this year's second cassette, but it is not yet at 0.7%. On this cassette (Mar-end May) the first chain did 3200km (NB varied spring weather). The chain I'm about to change has done nearly 5000km (Jun-Oct - NB summer, not much in wet and majority decent rural (including A and B) roads).
HTH

 

[Supersuperleeds]

Cassettes and chains do not wear at the same rate (rate measured in: per number of miles done). After fitting a new cassette and a new chain (assuming of similar decent quality), you can expect good performance (ie no slipping) for 3000km+ (YMMV) until the chain gets to/closely approaches the 0.75% elongation point. At that point the cassette/chain will continue to operate (and this is what @Racing roadkill must be doing) but the cassette will quickly wear, and sooner or later (say another 1000km, maybe more, probably less) the slipping will start. If you just put a new chain on, it will slip (as @Racing roadkill has discerned, so he replaces the cassette at the same time - entirely reasonable, based on the experience he has (and possesses loadsamoney to buy a new cassette twice as often (mileage-wise) as Mr Sensible (see below)). I suggest that @Supersuperleeds is adopting the same regime and inevitably has the same experience.
But if Mr Sensible replaces the chain when it gets to/closely approaches the 0.75% elongation point (which is the widespread recognised best practice), then the part used cassette and the new chain will be fine (no bedding in required - what do you think is bedding in), and you should get another 'normal' distance life out of that chain too.
Mr Lucky (or maybe one who diligently changes at the 0.7% point) will get a third chain's worth of use out of the cassette.
Then change both, and start the cycle again. Happy non-slip riding. Here's one rider's experience.

I'm about to change my chain for a second time, on this year's second cassette, but it is not yet at 0.7%. On this cassette (Mar-end May) the first chain did 3200km (NB varied spring weather). The chain I'm about to change has done nearly 5000km (Jun-Oct - NB summer, not much in wet and majority decent rural (including A and B) roads).
HTH

I'll openly admit I don't change the chain quick enough, I'll ride it until I start getting problems with the gear changes and can't fix them by playing with the indexing.

The amount of miles I do I would need to change the chain every four to six weeks to get a non change on the cassette. With the way I ride I get three or four months out of the chain and cassette. Yes this impacts the chain rings, I know I've changed the big chain ring once (possibly twice) on the Tricross which is the main commuting bike but it's done circa 35,000 miles so the extra wear isn't that great.

 

[Jody]

All credit if you do 3,000km every 6 weeks @Supersuperleeds

 

[themosquitoking]

All credit if you do 3,000km every 6 weeks @Supersuperleeds

It's probably more than that, he does get around a bit.

 

[alecstilleyedye]

i always change chain and cassette together, fortunately they're 9 speed shimano so cheap as chips.

the posh bike with 10 speed campag will be a bit pricier to do that, but as it gets a fraction of the milage, it's not keeping me awake at night…

 

[400bhp]

Clean it at the weekend - Try GCN's 30 minute wash if it's been a bad week for weather and dirt, or maybe just the 5 minute one in a dry week:
https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=5ak4AzlUz5Q

Dry the bike, give it an all over light spray and wipe with something like MO94 / GT85, (all the components, but avoid the brakes) and then oil the chain with whatever cycle oil you want.

So, shopping list:
Cheap car sponges
Some rags
Cycle brush for getting into the tight spots
Degreaser (I use Fenwicks)
Bike spray (I use MO)
Oil (MO wet lube, but I got it on offer and I'd happily use others)

The GCN vids are spot on, albeit I replace degreaser with GT85