Winter protection for my bike ?

[Supersuperleeds]

My winter maintenance regime:

If the ride is hard, pump up the tyres and/or clean some of the crud out of the mudguards. Note not all of the crud, a layer is needed to protect the guards.

If the chain is noisy - give it a quick mickle

If the brakes stop working - dial the pads in and when you can't go any further get the lbs to change the pads

 

[Tom B]

And if you replace the chain, but not the cassette ?

If the cassette is worn then of course it is replaced.

But in general I find that if the chain is kept clean and replaced early enough then the cassette with be fine for a few chains.
I ride 8speed Shimano stuff so chains are about £5 and cassettes about £12.

Does that picture mean you don't think the available capacity of a rechargeable cell is adversely affected by low temperatures?

That's my point, it isn't a massive difference but if you are used to just getting a weeks worth of commuting from your lights then dont be surprised when it gets cold and they run out half way through your ride home on the last day.

 

[Tim Hall]

If the cassette is worn then of course it is replaced.

But in general I find that if the chain is kept clean and replaced early enough then the cassette with be fine for a few chains.
I ride 8speed Shimano stuff so chains are about £5 and cassettes about £12.




That's my point, it isn't a massive difference but if you are used to just getting a weeks worth of commuting from your lights then dont be surprised when it gets cold and they run out half way through your ride home on the last day.

I quite agree, but I think Racing Roadkill was suggesting it wasn't an issue. I'm interested to know why he thinks so.

 

[Racing roadkill]

Does that picture mean you don't think the available capacity of a rechargeable cell is adversely affected by low temperatures?

1970 called, it wants it's battery technology back.

 

[Racing roadkill]

If the cassette is worn then of course it is replaced.

But in general I find that if the chain is kept clean and replaced early enough then the cassette with be fine for a few chains.
I ride 8speed Shimano stuff so chains are about £5 and cassettes about £12.
.

If you replace the chain without also replacing the cassette at the same time, the chain will slip, for a little while at least. New cassettes with existing chains tend not to cause the issue to the same extent. I can't be arsed with chain slippage, so if I replace my chain, I also replace the cassette at the same time. This also helps with keeping the mileage of replacement of parts easier to track, which reduces the risks of having unexpected roadside failures. The only times I haven't replaced the chain / cassette in sync, is if I've had a chain fail during a ride, and I've not had a new cassette / tools to hand. But even then I've replaced the cassette as soon as possible afterwards. The chainrings aren't subjected to the same shifting frequencies / wear rates as the cassettes, as the jockey wheels aren't. So unless I'm doing a full drivetrain overhaul, the replacement of those components don't compromise the functionality of the drivetrain as adversely, in my experience.

 

[Tim Hall]

1970 called, it wants it's battery technology back.

NiMH cells, which is what I run in my light, seem to be affected by temperature. Here's a paper I found. http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nickelmetalhydride_appman.pdf

 

[Racing roadkill]

NiMH cells, which is what I run in my light, seem to be affected by temperature. Here's a paper I found. http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nickelmetalhydride_appman.pdf

If you immerse them in LNO2, their resilience isn't as great as it could be, anything you'll expose them to, by riding about in this region if the world? Not so much so. It's about keeping a sense of perspective.

 

[Tom B]

If you replace the chain without also replacing the cassette at the same time, the chain will slip, for a little while at least. New cassettes with existing chains tend not to cause the issue to the same extent. I can't be arsed with chain slippage, so if I replace my chain, I also replace the cassette at the same time. This also helps with keeping the mileage of replacement of parts easier to track, which reduces the risks of having unexpected roadside failures. The only times I haven't replaced the chain / cassette in sync, is if I've had a chain fail during a ride, and I've not had a new cassette / tools to hand. But even then I've replaced the cassette as soon as possible afterwards. The chainrings aren't subjected to the same shifting frequencies / wear rates as the cassettes, as the jockey wheels aren't. So unless I'm doing a full drivetrain overhaul, the replacement of those components don't compromise the functionality of the drivetrain as adversely, in my experience.

I think we'll have to agree to differ on this one.

I change chains at +0.75% my current cassette has seen at least 3 chains and will likely need replacing at the next time around which is probably why ill run the chain to the full +1%.

I have has issues with slippage and then i replace the cassette too. But while i can get away with it, I do. It just seems wasteful otherwise.


As for the batteries, perhaps we will have to again agree to disagree again, my disposable alkaline battery powered rear lights do definitely perform and last less well sub 0. There seems plenty of anecdotal evidence to suggest the same on the internet. My Lithium Cateye front light I haven't had long enough to judge really, but Ive just read that I shouldn't be charging it in sub 0 conditions such as those in my bike shed.


Anyways this is wayyyyyy off subject - for a change!

 

[Racing roadkill]

I think we'll have to agree to differ on this one.

I change chains at +0.75% my current cassette has seen at least 3 chains and will likely need replacing at the next time around which is probably why ill run the chain to the full +1%.

I have has issues with slippage and then i replace the cassette too. But while i can get away with it, I do. It just seems wasteful otherwise.


As for the batteries, perhaps we will have to again agree to disagree again, my disposable alkaline battery powered rear lights do definitely perform and last less well sub 0. There seems plenty of anecdotal evidence to suggest the same on the internet. My Lithium Cateye front light I haven't had long enough to judge really, but Ive just read that I shouldn't be charging it in sub 0 conditions such as those in my bike shed.


Anyways this is wayyyyyy off subject - for a change!

The first point is down to experience I guess, and very usage dependant. By the time my chains need replacing, the existing cassettes are nearly always at the point where I would be daft to even try a new chain on them. Again, the second point is down to what and where. I haven't ever actually tried to charge a NiCad / Li ion etc. battery at sub zero temperatures, I know from my personal experience that they don't seem to behave noticeably differently when operated in the cold (down to about minus five degrees Celsius) anyway.

 

[KneesUp]

The only thing I would suggest is invest in a good pair of mudguards. After a wet commute, rag the bike down and wipe the chain. Give it a good clean and re-lube at the weekend.

It rains less then people are led to believe in this country especially in the South East. Oh hold on, you're Oop Norf... carry on, as you were. Get the brolly's out.

The brolly's what?

 

[davidphilips]

put yourself first leave extra time to allow for delays 2 sets of lights at the back to be safe one steady and one flashing, then wash bike down after its been used in the wet and lub, clear water or car wash is ok avoid home cleaners as they contain salt thats why they clean better than some car washs yet are cheaper, you have good tyres and mudguards just think what you will wear to keep dry and warm and of course a high vis top.

 

[Fab Foodie]

My winter maintenance regime:

If the ride is hard, pump up the tyres and/or clean some of the crud out of the mudguards. Note not all of the crud, a layer is needed to protect the guards.

If the chain is noisy - give it a quick mickle

If the brakes stop working - dial the pads in and when you can't go any further get the lbs to change the pads

Bang-on.

 

[EasyPeez]

Bang-on.

Seriously? You're endorsing taking your bike to the lbs for new brake pads fitting? I'm disappointed in the pair of you....

 

[Fab Foodie]

Seriously? You're endorsing taking your bike to the lbs for new brake pads fitting? I'm disappointed in the pair of you....

Not the brake pads bit, my Butler takes it to the lbs.....
I change my brake blocks myself though.

 

[Jody]

If you replace the chain without also replacing the cassette at the same time, the chain will slip, for a little while at least. .

Nonesense. If you replace the chain regularly the cassette won't need changing at the same frequency

By the time my chains need replacing, the existing cassettes are nearly always at the point where I would be daft to even try a new chain on them.

Which means your chain has gone to far and prematurely worn the cassette