Winter protection for my bike ?

[Chess]

My trusted and reliable steed, a Boardman CX Comp) is my only bike, so I have to use it year round for my 16 mile round trip commute 5 days a week. It saves me much time and money as opposed to bus and train.
I want to keep it in good condition and protect it best I can from the ravages of the winter commute, as I cannot afford a second bike at this time.

I would like your help and advice please on what to buy / use and where on the bike to pay particular attention.
I'm thinking here on things like ACF50 / GT85 (or other recommendations) and a good winter lube for that all important drive chain. Ditto cable lube and anything else you use/do ?
All I have done so far is fit full mudguards, and Marathon + tyres. so your advice and recommendations greatly appreciated as I rely on it so much I want to keep it in good order.
Thank you.

 

[CanucksTraveller]

Clean it at the weekend - Try GCN's 30 minute wash if it's been a bad week for weather and dirt, or maybe just the 5 minute one in a dry week:
https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=5ak4AzlUz5Q

Dry the bike, give it an all over light spray and wipe with something like MO94 / GT85, (all the components, but avoid the brakes) and then oil the chain with whatever cycle oil you want.

So, shopping list:
Cheap car sponges
Some rags
Cycle brush for getting into the tight spots
Degreaser (I use Fenwicks)
Bike spray (I use MO)
Oil (MO wet lube, but I got it on offer and I'd happily use others)

 

[Jody]

Cheap car sponges

Cheap wash mitts do a better and quicker job.

 

[Fab Foodie]

Use a winter lube like finish line cross country/green.
Wipe bike over with an oily rag.
If really anal clean to bling standard and spray everything with Mr Sheen (silicone).
But .... It's a bike, it's designed for the outdoor life, it doesn't need huge amounts of TLC to keep in good order.

 

[fossyant]

Just wash it after a wet ride and lube.

 

[GuyBoden]

Get some good winter clothing, forget about the bike...........

 

[cyberknight]

full mudguards .

 

[Racing roadkill]

Keep it clean and lubed, it will be fine. Contrary to widely held beliefs in some quaters, bicycles don't spontaneously dissolve, when the clocks go back.

 

[mjr]

Use a winter lube like finish line cross country/green.

I've been underwhelmed with Finish Line and gone back to TF2.

Wipe bike over with an oily rag.
If really anal clean to bling standard and spray everything with Mr Sheen (silicone).

Alloy bikes seem to benefit from silicone, whereas steel bikes seem better off with zipwax than with degreaser-based washes like muc-off or fenwicks. I'm not sure about carbon fibre. Are there any combinations which are completely disasterous bike-eaters?

 

[CanucksTraveller]

Alloy bikes seem to benefit from silicone, whereas steel bikes seem better off with zipwax than with degreaser-based washes like muc-off or fenwicks. I'm not sure about carbon fibre. Are there any combinations which are completely disasterous bike-eaters?

I don't believe there are really bad choices per se. Some might have favourites and some might find that a product A is better than product B finish wise, but any of them are better than leaving a bike to quietly gunk up or rust. Pretty much all products will clean and protect a bike to a good degree, even stuff like own brand bike spray from Wilko (£2 I think), and Fairy liquid in a bucket (£1 a bottle) will do a job.
As someone who uses Fenwicks by the way, I find it an awful general bike cleaner when diluted. It's good for degreasing drivetrains in undiluted form.

Cheap wash mitts do a better and quicker job.

Yeah, I've just got my road bike back from repairs today and I gave it a clean in prep for the weekend - Although I didn't have a mitt, I used a car cloth of the same "terry / noodly" texture as a mitt and I have to say you're right, it is a bit better and quicker. Especially on the drive train.

 

[Tom B]

Mine sees the same. I have mudguards.

I make a greater effort in winter to clean/wash every set of shifts. Cleaning extends to hosing and brushing off the crap with a washing up brush. Sqirting degreaser on the greasy bits (weldtite) and wiping wiping and wiping again the chain, sprockets and jockey wheel. using the mickle method.

If it's particularly foul weather I wipe the chain post ride. I give extra attention to making sure everything is lubed well, and am a belive in the little and often approach.

Remember winter oils and "wet" lubes will hold the grit more. This is your enemy.

Measure your chain more frequently and replace as soon as necessary chains are cheaper than sprockets and cassettes is my view.

Other than that lots of layers to keep warm... I work on the basis of I don't mind being wet along as I'm warm. invest in good gloves and some overshoes which were a revelation to me last year. Previously I'd duct taped up my shoes and wore plastic bags over my socks. This year's letter to santa mentions winter shoes.

Oh and get to know your lights so you know when you'll need to charge them or have spare batteries. Remember in the cold they won't last as long.

 

[Racing roadkill]

Measure your chain more frequently and replace as soon as necessary chains are cheaper than sprockets and cassettes is my view.

And if you replace the chain, but not the cassette ?

Oh and get to know your lights so you know when you'll need to charge them or have spare batteries.

I'll give you that.

Remember in the cold they won't last as long.

 

[Tim Hall]

View attachment 149949

Does that picture mean you don't think the available capacity of a rechargeable cell is adversely affected by low temperatures?

 

[Chess]

Thanks very much all, for the replies / advice. I'll take it onboard.
Cheers.

 

[ianrauk]

The only thing I would suggest is invest in a good pair of mudguards. After a wet commute, rag the bike down and wipe the chain. Give it a good clean and re-lube at the weekend.

It rains less then people are led to believe in this country especially in the South East. Oh hold on, you're Oop Norf... carry on, as you were. Get the brolly's out.