What Have You Fettled Today?

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si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
You missed the bit where I explained that the frame doesn't take BB30 BBs! It is designed for old-fashioned square taper or Hollowtech.

My BSA30 BB fittings have standard threads, just enough room for the 30mm axle to fit through, and then squeeze the bearings in outside the frame's BB shell. The problem is that there is not enough space for decent sized ball bearings. I realised from the start that these little ball bearings would have a limited lifetime but I was hoping for 1-2 years, not 1-2 months!! I reckon that the quality of the original bearings is poor, and am hoping that better quality replacements would last 10+ times as long!

I'm using a BB386evo BB, it's a 30mm spindle with the bearings outside the frame, I've got decent life out of them, usually 8-10k km per BB with a lot of that in bad weather. But I do service them regularly - pop the seals off clean the bearings and regrease.

Might be worth doing that with the BB30 external bearings.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
Might be worth doing that with the BB30 external bearings.
BSA30!

The clicking was much worse today so I think at least one ball bearing in the sealed bearing has suffered death by ColinJ awesome leg power attack.

It looks like I need a 6806 2RS replacement like this...

6806-LLB.jpg

You can probably imagine how puny the ball bearings are in that?
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
BSA30!

The clicking was much worse today so I think at least one ball bearing in the sealed bearing has suffered death by ColinJ awesome leg power attack.

It looks like I need a 6806 2RS replacement like this...

View attachment 764440
You can probably imagine how puny the ball bearings are in that?

Yeah the bearings are quite small on that, the BB386evo cranks have an axle thats a little longer so the bearings can be a bit bigger.

Definitely worth picking the seals off carefully and then regreasing, I found that it was always the NDS which seemed to need doing first but did both at the same time. At least before and after winter.
 

Punkawallah

Über Member
Another puncture, rear wheel. Compared puncture point with previous tube, same place. Investigated rim, spoke end seemed ‘high’ in the nipple, but not ‘out’. Filed nipple head, spoke end, re trued and puncture fixed. Added a protective patch of old tube over the nipple head, and see how we go.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Another puncture, rear wheel. Compared puncture point with previous tube, same place. Investigated rim, spoke end seemed ‘high’ in the nipple, but not ‘out’. Filed nipple head, spoke end, re trued and puncture fixed. Added a protective patch of old tube over the nipple head, and see how we go.

It's been said before, but Velox rim tape will solve this sort of issue.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
ride today i didnt feel comfy as i was always hitching forward on the saddle so i checked when i got home and the saddle was 5 mm further back than my usual setup so i reset it and i hope to me more comfy next time .
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
Dewinterised the MTB. Inevitably took about three hours longer than anticipated.

Last time I changed brake pads it was really hard to get the wheel back on as the gap was too small, and it occurred to me it might be a seized cylinder. Sprayed with WD40 (note the theme developing) and prized a spanner between, which freed it up nicely. Now working perfectly. Someone will be along soon to tell me disc brakes are maintenance free.

Swapped the ice spiker tyres for normal ones. But while taking the rear wheel off, noticed...

Rear freehub completely seized. Had to use a chain whip to move it at all! Took the axle out and main bearings seemed fine but no obvious way to remove the freehub; I have a 10mm Allen key bought specifically for the purpose on another bike, but was too small (and I'm not sure if an Allen key is needed or some other mechanism). Tried spraying some WD40 on the outside at the seal, which seemed to make a surprisingly big difference. Now still notchy, but usable.

Noticed the tension jockey wheel was worn down horribly, and I have a spare 9 speed set, so changed them. Changed the chain too, and counted the cogs on the cassette (11-34) but hoped it would be OK.

Had a test ride, inevitably chain was slipping. I had a spare 11-36 cassette, thought that would be OK and swapped it. Big clashing noise! But wound the B screw all the way in and hey presto, just OK. All good on a short test ride.

Phew. Probably won't ride it again till next winter!
 

All uphill

Still rolling along
Location
Somerset
Gave Ms AU's Felt a once over.

Washed, trued wheels, adjusted limit screws on fd, adjusted brakes.

Put a note in my calendar to replace chain and brake pads later in the week, when rain is forecast.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
My money's on carp bearings sorry!

Yeah the bearings are quite small on that, the BB386evo cranks have an axle thats a little longer so the bearings can be a bit bigger.

Definitely worth picking the seals off carefully and then regreasing, I found that it was always the NDS which seemed to need doing first but did both at the same time. At least before and after winter.
I whipped the cranks off just now...

Yes, the NDS bearing has been seen off by just 2 months of riding on wet, gritted roads without mudguards on the bike!

The face of the DS bearing was pretty clean and dry and the bearing still feels smooth. The face of the NDS bearing was glistening with rusty-coloured water containing mucky grit, and the bearing feels awful when turning it with my finger.

I will probably get the LBS to replace the bearing. I don't have the tools to do it myself and it probably isn't cost-effective (at my age!) to buy them. (I know that it is possible to knock them in and out, but it's a bit iffy.)

I will not make this mistake again! I need to get my CAADX back on the road. That bike has SKS Longboards to keep all the crap off it when I am riding mucky roads.
 
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