Andy in Germany
Guru
- Location
- Rottenburg am Neckar
Nice. What do you use for paint/lacquer?
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Nice. What do you use for paint/lacquer?
DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
- Location
- Dewsbury, West Yorkshire
We used Rustoleum Painters Touch with just a 500ml spray lacquer I found. The learning was to use far more lacquer than the single can we used first time round.
GeekDadZoid
Über Member
Quick fettle last night. Removed the rack from my Super Galaxy. I have saddle bags for most occasions and the rack is not the original spec to the bike and doesn't really complement it too well. I'll keep my eye out for something a bit nicer.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Nowt, road the bike, then wiped with a damp cloth and put it away. 
Last edited:
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
My rear mudguard snapped on my longest day commute last month and a front spoke snapped on the last commute. I need to order a new spoke for the Fulcrum 7s front wheel, in the meantime I have put the Fulcrum Quattro front wheel on. The Quattro was on my best bike a few years ago before I went tubeless and I had last used it with a brand new 28mm tyre for Flanders (the F7 has 25mm tyres). As I expected the Quattro wheel (or to be more precise the 28mm tyre) fouled the front mud guard, with no room for adjustment. I could have struggled with changing the pro 4 endurance tyres but I decided to remove the guard instead. Probably for winter I'll get new guards and swap the tyres then if the rear Quattro is good (I'll need to swap the cassette too if Ido it). If the rear Quattro is good I'll fix the F7 and use it for a spare. IIRC the rear mudguard fits with a 28mm tyre and it's just the front one under the forks is fouled.
taximan
senex crepitu iuvenis cordi esse
- Location
- Whitby North Yorkshire.
I find that hair spray works well, spray it into the tube and it acts as a lubricant then when it dries at act as a an adhesive.New handlebars:
View attachment 653544
Nitto B825AA butterfly bars
I followed the suggestion to spray some water into the rubber grip tubes to aid in installation, as a lubricant. After 40 minutes, on and off, of wrestling with the top left grip to get it into place, I added soap to the water for the other three, and they went on in seconds!
Pennine-Paul
Goth on a bike............
The Mavic wheels that were going onto my touring bike project (currently shelved until I straighten the twisted fork) got fitted onto my Europa flat bar conversion.
As much as I liked the Araya wheels on it the front had a slight imperfection at the join that made it vibrate under brakes.
I also gained the 12-32 cassette I'd just fitted to the new set so gearing is slightly lower which is always handy.
As much as I liked the Araya wheels on it the front had a slight imperfection at the join that made it vibrate under brakes.
I also gained the 12-32 cassette I'd just fitted to the new set so gearing is slightly lower which is always handy.
GeekDadZoid
Über Member
Something I wasn't too happy of with the Dawes Super Galaxy was the brake pads. They where the only thing that reviewed badly back in 2012 and 12 years had not been kind on these.
They had gone shiny and hard.
So after trawling some post on here and the CTC forum I ordered some shimano durace holders and matching inserts. I'll probably replace them with Fibrax ones at some point, but I'll see how they are.
They had gone shiny and hard.
So after trawling some post on here and the CTC forum I ordered some shimano durace holders and matching inserts. I'll probably replace them with Fibrax ones at some point, but I'll see how they are.
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
This was harder than it should have been...
Andy in Germany
Guru
- Location
- Rottenburg am Neckar
Not much got done today because I'm trying to catch up on paperwork and orders, and general workshop tidying. However the tyres on the haunted bike held for several days so I've put the original tyres back on (after checking them thoroughly) with new inner tubes. This is now down in the showroom. As previous bikes went very quickly for higher prices than expected I've put this one down for 250€ on the basis it is a very nice bike (24 gears, nearly new condition; mudguards, hub dynamo, basket et c) and also because it was such a pain in the bottom to get it ready.
Will check on the tyres tomorrow when I go to work.
In the middle of this my former supervisor asked me to look at her bike tyre: she'd mounted a Schwalbe marathon on the front wheel but it wasn't sitting straight. I've had limited success with this but I pretended I knew what I was doing, refitted the tyre twice and used the tyre lubricant (what is that in English) to help it sit straight, then pumped the tyre up to 5 bar just to make sure. I also fixed the brakes which were a bit sloppy, as like me she rides all the time. I haven't had an irate phone call yet so I expect she's made it home...
Will check on the tyres tomorrow when I go to work.
In the middle of this my former supervisor asked me to look at her bike tyre: she'd mounted a Schwalbe marathon on the front wheel but it wasn't sitting straight. I've had limited success with this but I pretended I knew what I was doing, refitted the tyre twice and used the tyre lubricant (what is that in English) to help it sit straight, then pumped the tyre up to 5 bar just to make sure. I also fixed the brakes which were a bit sloppy, as like me she rides all the time. I haven't had an irate phone call yet so I expect she's made it home...
Last edited:
Andy in Germany
Guru
- Location
- Rottenburg am Neckar
On the way into work I noticed the brakes on my longtail bike were feeling a bit sloppy, which is embarrassing, and the gears were taking changes as suggestions, which is annoying.
After a few minutes on the stand the brakes now work much better but the gears aren't really improved- The the rear mech is a good 20cm further away from the shifter than on a normal bike, and that extra length is low down and in a long section of cable router, so I suspect it has gone and got all crudded up (again), and the cable is probably rusted (again). I don't have a tandem cable to hand so that will have to wait a bit.
After a few minutes on the stand the brakes now work much better but the gears aren't really improved- The the rear mech is a good 20cm further away from the shifter than on a normal bike, and that extra length is low down and in a long section of cable router, so I suspect it has gone and got all crudded up (again), and the cable is probably rusted (again). I don't have a tandem cable to hand so that will have to wait a bit.
figbat
Slippery scientist
- Location
- South Oxfordshire, UK
Last night about 90 minutes before my regular MTB group ride I remembered that I have a new rear wheel waiting to go on my hardtail.
New rim Gorilla-taped and valve fitted.
Old wheel off the bike.
Tyre off the old wheel.
Tyre onto new wheel, popped on easily.
Stan’s fluid added, inflated.
Cassette off of old wheel and onto new one.
New wheel onto bike.
Gears tested - all line up perfectly. Nice job done in 30 minutes.
Then…
New wheel off of bike.
Brake disc off of old wheel and onto new one.
New wheel back on bike.
Gears tested (still good) and caliper aligned.
Then…
An hour into the ride, all is working well but at a stop I notice I’ve put the rear tyre on back-to-front.
It’s still like that.
New rim Gorilla-taped and valve fitted.
Old wheel off the bike.
Tyre off the old wheel.
Tyre onto new wheel, popped on easily.
Stan’s fluid added, inflated.
Cassette off of old wheel and onto new one.
New wheel onto bike.
Gears tested - all line up perfectly. Nice job done in 30 minutes.
Then…
New wheel off of bike.
Brake disc off of old wheel and onto new one.
New wheel back on bike.
Gears tested (still good) and caliper aligned.
Then…
An hour into the ride, all is working well but at a stop I notice I’ve put the rear tyre on back-to-front.
It’s still like that.
You might want to consider something like Jagwire's Slicklube housing. It's essentially a full length run of housing that stops any dirt and debris getting into the cable housing and causing friction. Normally I'd consider it unneccesary but in this case it's probably worth the extra cost if you use the bike daily.
