What Have You Fettled Today?

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Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
That's a dangerous start ;)

Son's PlanetX Nanolight hillclimb bike has a single carbon front chainring, Dura-Ace 9000 RH shifter and DA 9000 Di2 LH shifter (70g lighter), carbon crankset, lightweight carbon wheels and tubs, women's carbon bars, carbon seatpost and carbon saddle. He had a budget of £500 so couldn't go with anything specialist.

Has he removed saddle and seat post those two are a significant weight to lose
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
Has he removed saddle and seat post those two are a significant weight to lose

We're not sure about having a seatpost and saddle in the CTT regulations. Combined they only weigh 180g though.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Kept getting flats on my rear this week right close to the valve. Thought I'd missed a thorn but then found this...

549257

Turns out a fault batch of innertubes was to blame. The shoulder was ballooning and popping.
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
Some cheap and rather ill-favoured M737 SPDs turned up from the Bay of Thieves. Terrible condition and one had really chewed-up bearings (a new axle unit is on the way). The other one was gummy but cleaned up fine, and all races were good. Very smooth now with new bearing balls, stuffed with calcium grease. These early pedals have no lip seals so need a total grease fill to keep water out. I fitted SRP alloy collars as the plastic ones look awful after 30 years and can shear off.

They have hinged front and rear bindings, unlike later SPDs (except M536 and possibly one or two others). Weight is...substantial. One of these weighs more than a PAIR of current SPD-SL road pedals.

How's this for patina?
 

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Talking of pedals, had some clicks and creaks start and get worse on the recent Okehampton ride. Decided it was pedals, swapped the pair off the Trek to the Scott. Today's ride: no difference at first, then it all seemed to ease off a bit. Suspicious.
Wonder if there's a crack in the frame? The riding today was different also, new rear tyre.
More investigation needed...
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Some cheap and rather ill-favoured M737 SPDs turned up from the Bay of Thieves. Terrible condition and one had really chewed-up bearings (a new axle unit is on the way). The other one was gummy but cleaned up fine, and all races were good. Very smooth now with new bearing balls, stuffed with calcium grease. These early pedals have no lip seals so need a total grease fill to keep water out. I fitted SRP alloy collars as the plastic ones look awful after 30 years and can shear off.

They have hinged front and rear bindings, unlike later SPDs (except M536 and possibly one or two others). Weight is...substantial. One of these weighs more than a PAIR of current SPD-SL road pedals.

How's this for patina?

I hope you didn’t actually part with any money for those.
 
D

Deleted member 1258

Guest
Some cheap and rather ill-favoured M737 SPDs turned up from the Bay of Thieves. Terrible condition and one had really chewed-up bearings (a new axle unit is on the way). The other one was gummy but cleaned up fine, and all races were good. Very smooth now with new bearing balls, stuffed with calcium grease. These early pedals have no lip seals so need a total grease fill to keep water out. I fitted SRP alloy collars as the plastic ones look awful after 30 years and can shear off.

They have hinged front and rear bindings, unlike later SPDs (except M536 and possibly one or two others). Weight is...substantial. One of these weighs more than a PAIR of current SPD-SL road pedals.

How's this for patina?

I think well used is the phrase.
 

JhnBssll

Guru
Location
Suffolk
Today I've mostly been fitting mudguards to the Pilot Veturi, which has precisely zero fixing points :laugh:

I've gone for Kinesis Fend Off aluminium full length jobbies and they seem really good quality so far. I've modelled and printed some prototype brackets and got the rear guard nicely mounted but the front is going to be more tricky.

I started by making some basic clamps to fix the stays near the dropouts:

549303


Next up I made a clamp that fits over the chainstay bridge to secure the other end:

549307


549306


This held the guard quite nicely but it still had enough wobble to give me concerns about rattles, especially knocking against the seat tube as there's only around a millimetre of clearance there.

549304


Normally it would be held tight here by clamping to the seatstay bridge but this frame doesnt have one so I decided to make my own...

549305


It's not fixed to the frame but designed to wedge in place. When I've printed final versions off and lined everything up I'll drill the guard and bolt it to the bridge but even with no bolts its completely solid so I'm very pleased :okay: I've since tidied the CAD models up ready to print final SLA parts which should stand up to a bit more abuse :laugh:

The front is going to be a challenge. The carbon forks are a fairly complex shape which makes it difficult to recreate accurately when the measuring tools I have available are a steel rule and some digital vernier calipers :laugh: I've sent an email off to one of the guys at Pilot to see if they're willing to send me some CAD data of the forks which would be a massive help, otherwise I may have to take them off and scan them which would be a bit of a drag :laugh:

549302


My concept will be to mark the guard up and cut out the section that currently passes through the forks, then print a front and rear bracket that somehow connect together and mount the two bits of mudguards directly to them. This should give a bit more tyre clearance. I'll print more brackets to mount the stays to the lower legs but that bit should be relatively straight forward in comparison :laugh:

Hopefully I'll have the winter wheels built up soon too, still waiting on the rims I ordered in July 😭:laugh:
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Pulled a thorn out of the tubeless 36mm road tyre, tyre went down! Luckily I was at home. Pumped 50ml of OKO sealant in, pumped it up, sealed instantly. Been using this recently, cheaper than the PlanetX OKO High Fibre, seems just as good. I do water it down a bit though.
Amazon product ASIN B006THGZZ2View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Off-Road-Tyre-Sealant-Puncture/dp/B006THGZZ2

I used OKO sealant for my last top-up.

The tyres are Schwalbe Moto X 2.4" balloons so have a large internal surface area.

With that in mind I walloped in about 250ml of sealant.

Some appeared around a couple of spoke nipples, which shows the stuff is doing its job.

The tyres now hold pressure pretty much as well as tubes.

I've also seen a couple of spots on the tread so the sealant has saved me at least two punctures.
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
I could only afford the "DX" ones (M525) at the time. They were £72! I remember driving to a weird one-man MTB shop/shed somewhere in the wilds of the South Hams to get them for that price. NOS ones are still around. You get zero float with current SH51 cleats and I wouldn't risk SH56 cleats at all. The M737 pedals have a little bit of float built in.
 
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