Starchivore
I don't know much about Cinco de Mayo
- Location
- Halifax, West Yorkshire
I did it and now have the tepid glow of minor achievement.
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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I did it and now have the tepid glow of minor achievement.
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
Mudguard bodging this afternoon, I hit a section of rough road on my way back yesterday and rattled the rest of the way home, the rear mudguard bracket had broken, the problem was that it was a part of the mudguard not a separate item as a lot of them are. Fortunately I had a spare mudguard bracket in my bits box and I was able to make it fit.
Starchivore
I don't know much about Cinco de Mayo
- Location
- Halifax, West Yorkshire
That sounds like a decent job done. My mudguard on my steel bike is held on by black tape, and I've had to extend its coverage at the sides using masking tape as the edge cracked off. (These are those plastic crud-racers though, quite fragile).
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
I'm running a pair of these on my Eastway,
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Giant-Speedshield-Road-ALUXX-Mudguards-Defy-Avail-_85664.htm
so they are a bit of a bodge job from the start, they're not long enough at the front so they are cable tied to the seat tube.
RoubaixCube
~Tribanese~
- Location
- London, UK
checked brakes on both bikes.Fitted the Carradice SQR mount to my Triban as i'll be using my Super C Audax for commuting now unless otherwise. Considering changing the bar tape on the Triban but its still got a few hundred miles on it still -- praise the black bar tape!
Call me stupid (or dumb - whichever is more applicable) but I think my Cube carries on rolling for a lot longer per pedal/crank rotation with the carradice saddlebag attached - I was almost coasting my way to the train station earlier for the CC:SLR. I also noticed this effect while I was on the Dunwich Dynamo Ride but I wasnt too sure if it was because I was wheel sucking the other cyclists or just having most of the weight located at the back of the bike.
I dont think its some sort of placebo effect from not having a rucksack hanging off my shoulders.
Call me stupid (or dumb - whichever is more applicable) but I think my Cube carries on rolling for a lot longer per pedal/crank rotation with the carradice saddlebag attached - I was almost coasting my way to the train station earlier for the CC:SLR. I also noticed this effect while I was on the Dunwich Dynamo Ride but I wasnt too sure if it was because I was wheel sucking the other cyclists or just having most of the weight located at the back of the bike.
I dont think its some sort of placebo effect from not having a rucksack hanging off my shoulders.
Elybazza61
Guru
Checked over the Planet X XLS;indexed the rear mech and set up the disc calipers plus a quick wipe over for the chain.
Deanie81084
Senior Member
Changed the chain, casette, brake blocks and all of the cables at the weekend.
Gears need a little bit of adjustment but will do that as I go along.
Gears need a little bit of adjustment but will do that as I go along.
stoatsngroats
Legendary Member
- Location
- South East
Fitted pitlock front wheel and aheadset to the Fuji, for the OH.
This afternoon, changed a clicking 6700 BB for a 6800BB, first time for me, bt would be happy to do this again - no changes to FD, and clicking has disappeared, so hopefully this is resolved now!
This afternoon, changed a clicking 6700 BB for a 6800BB, first time for me, bt would be happy to do this again - no changes to FD, and clicking has disappeared, so hopefully this is resolved now!
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Biff600
Veteran
Fitted a new saddle to the fixie and adjusted the brake as it was making hell of a racket
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
Recent fettling ...
The right Campagnolo Chorus shifter on my Cannondale CAAD5 lost its clunky clicks last year. It was still indexing but it was becoming increasing hard to be sure that a gear change had taken place, and I thought it was only a matter of time before it packed up altogether so I looked up how to service it. There are some excellent videos on Youtube showing how to do it.
It is a fiddly process, but ok if you take your time and do it properly. If you decide to do the same, make sure that you don't lose any of the parts when you disassemble your shifter. Oh, and there is a washer-like metal plate which needs to go in the right way up. I failed to notice that there is a small indent in the plate and put it in the wrong way up. That does not work ... I had several attempts to get the shifter shifting, but it was jammed. Eventually I realised where I had gone wrong and put the plate in the right way up. I reassembled the shifter and it is now good as new, with a reassuringly positive clunk every time that I change gear!
I have recently realised that I needed a longer stem. (It only took me about 15 or 16 years to finally accept that I am better off with a 'long and low' position rather than a 'short and high' one!) I had an old long stem which I used to check the new position. The position was good but I did not like the stem so I decided to buy a new one that size. I had a stem fail on me once when one of the 2 bolts holding the front plate on stripped its thread (I had overtightened it). I prefer to have the type that has 4 bolts holding the plate on, so there is less chance of a catastrophic failure - the 3 remaining bolts should hold the bars in place long enough to stop!
I had wanted stiffer bars after buying a CAADX last year which has nice stiff oversize bars. I therefore made sure that the new stem was for oversize bars and bought new bars as well. I bought very compact bars which, in combination with my new position, mean that I can finally get comfortable on the drops. The position feels good on the hoods, on the tops, and on the drops.
So that was a reconditioned shifter, new stem and bars ...
In the process of fixing the shifter and fitting new bars, I decided to tidy up the cabling. The cables had been a bit too long before so I shortened and rerouted them. I think they now look a lot neater, and braking and gear shifting are unaffected by the change. I can still rotate the forks through 180 degrees without the cables pulling, so all seems well.
It seemed a shame to do all that and not fit new bar tape too. A mate normally does my taping for me but he was away on his hols so I did it myself. I am not very experienced at that job so the first attempt was pretty bad. I decided to have a second go and carefully unwound the tape and made a much better job of it second time round. Not perfect, but good enough to not bother with a third attempt. I put Marsas shock absorbing foam strips under the tape to reduce the inevitable increase in road shock transmitted to my hands by the stiffer bars and stem.
So, I now have a much better position on the bike, and the front end looks and feels a lot better. I decided that I would treat myself to some nice (nearly) new wheels too, Campagnolo Neutrons, which I bought from @gbs.
The Neutrons have a 12-30 cassette which is a subtle improvement on the 13-29s that I have used up until now. Having a slightly higher top gear and lower bottom gear suits the hilly terrain round here without creating massive steps anywhere in the range.
The old chain on the CAAD5 was starting to stretch so I took that off and replaced it with a new one. I cleaned the rear mech and rest of the bike while I was at it. I adjusted the derailleur endstops and tweaked the indexing. The transmission is working very nicely now. The one remaining annoyance is a slight ticking sound when I pedal hard. I have been trying to eliminate this for some time. I reduced it by about 50% but something still isn't quite right, so the hunt goes on!
I am doing some reshuffling of kit. The chain and old wheels from the CAAD5 will go on my 9-speed Basso which will soon be upgraded to 10-speed. The stem and bars from the Cannondale and levers and wheels from the Basso will go on a singlespeed bike which I am building using an old Specialized Allez alloy frame/forks.
I still haven't put mudguards and rack on my CAADX CX bike. I want to get that done before the winter.
My MTB has been out of action for a couple of years with a faulty brake. I'd like to get that back in action again too.
So, I have a busy autumn of fettling ahead of me. All being well, I will have a stable of 5 working bikes before the winter: Best road bike, bad weather road bike, CX bike (which could double up for light touring duties), a singlespeed bike for going to the shops on and for tearing up and down the flattish A646 when visiting friends in Hebden Bridge, and the MTB for offroad rides that are too gnarly for the CX bike.
The right Campagnolo Chorus shifter on my Cannondale CAAD5 lost its clunky clicks last year. It was still indexing but it was becoming increasing hard to be sure that a gear change had taken place, and I thought it was only a matter of time before it packed up altogether so I looked up how to service it. There are some excellent videos on Youtube showing how to do it.
It is a fiddly process, but ok if you take your time and do it properly. If you decide to do the same, make sure that you don't lose any of the parts when you disassemble your shifter. Oh, and there is a washer-like metal plate which needs to go in the right way up. I failed to notice that there is a small indent in the plate and put it in the wrong way up. That does not work ... I had several attempts to get the shifter shifting, but it was jammed. Eventually I realised where I had gone wrong and put the plate in the right way up. I reassembled the shifter and it is now good as new, with a reassuringly positive clunk every time that I change gear!
I have recently realised that I needed a longer stem. (It only took me about 15 or 16 years to finally accept that I am better off with a 'long and low' position rather than a 'short and high' one!) I had an old long stem which I used to check the new position. The position was good but I did not like the stem so I decided to buy a new one that size. I had a stem fail on me once when one of the 2 bolts holding the front plate on stripped its thread (I had overtightened it). I prefer to have the type that has 4 bolts holding the plate on, so there is less chance of a catastrophic failure - the 3 remaining bolts should hold the bars in place long enough to stop!
I had wanted stiffer bars after buying a CAADX last year which has nice stiff oversize bars. I therefore made sure that the new stem was for oversize bars and bought new bars as well. I bought very compact bars which, in combination with my new position, mean that I can finally get comfortable on the drops. The position feels good on the hoods, on the tops, and on the drops.
So that was a reconditioned shifter, new stem and bars ...
In the process of fixing the shifter and fitting new bars, I decided to tidy up the cabling. The cables had been a bit too long before so I shortened and rerouted them. I think they now look a lot neater, and braking and gear shifting are unaffected by the change. I can still rotate the forks through 180 degrees without the cables pulling, so all seems well.
It seemed a shame to do all that and not fit new bar tape too. A mate normally does my taping for me but he was away on his hols so I did it myself. I am not very experienced at that job so the first attempt was pretty bad. I decided to have a second go and carefully unwound the tape and made a much better job of it second time round. Not perfect, but good enough to not bother with a third attempt. I put Marsas shock absorbing foam strips under the tape to reduce the inevitable increase in road shock transmitted to my hands by the stiffer bars and stem.
So, I now have a much better position on the bike, and the front end looks and feels a lot better. I decided that I would treat myself to some nice (nearly) new wheels too, Campagnolo Neutrons, which I bought from @gbs.
The Neutrons have a 12-30 cassette which is a subtle improvement on the 13-29s that I have used up until now. Having a slightly higher top gear and lower bottom gear suits the hilly terrain round here without creating massive steps anywhere in the range.
The old chain on the CAAD5 was starting to stretch so I took that off and replaced it with a new one. I cleaned the rear mech and rest of the bike while I was at it. I adjusted the derailleur endstops and tweaked the indexing. The transmission is working very nicely now. The one remaining annoyance is a slight ticking sound when I pedal hard. I have been trying to eliminate this for some time. I reduced it by about 50% but something still isn't quite right, so the hunt goes on!
I am doing some reshuffling of kit. The chain and old wheels from the CAAD5 will go on my 9-speed Basso which will soon be upgraded to 10-speed. The stem and bars from the Cannondale and levers and wheels from the Basso will go on a singlespeed bike which I am building using an old Specialized Allez alloy frame/forks.
I still haven't put mudguards and rack on my CAADX CX bike. I want to get that done before the winter.
My MTB has been out of action for a couple of years with a faulty brake. I'd like to get that back in action again too.
So, I have a busy autumn of fettling ahead of me. All being well, I will have a stable of 5 working bikes before the winter: Best road bike, bad weather road bike, CX bike (which could double up for light touring duties), a singlespeed bike for going to the shops on and for tearing up and down the flattish A646 when visiting friends in Hebden Bridge, and the MTB for offroad rides that are too gnarly for the CX bike.
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doog
....
- Location
- The beautiful south
Can we do retrospect ..as in one week
About to pop off on tour last weekend and dismantle BB and find its fubar....fit new Hollowtech 2...sourced on sat from my crappy (but now favoured LBS)
Front hub wibbly so dismantle and find bearings and cups totally cream crackered...new wheel..no choice..cant order no time...Halfrauds do a bombproof wheel that weighs as much as a bloody great bomb...have a ferry to catch so go for it and its been...okay. It was true but unless my food and drink deprived eyes are playing up its starting a slight wobble loaded up with kit after miles of eurovelo 4
Load up bike pre tour and trusty cheap front rack develops a sideways motion that could be detrimental to my long term health if it impacts with the spokes on a downhill.......new Tubus rack ordered from SJS...just in time...its more rigid than the bike frame and probably cost more than a bike frame
About to pop off on tour last weekend and dismantle BB and find its fubar....fit new Hollowtech 2...sourced on sat from my crappy (but now favoured LBS)
Front hub wibbly so dismantle and find bearings and cups totally cream crackered...new wheel..no choice..cant order no time...Halfrauds do a bombproof wheel that weighs as much as a bloody great bomb...have a ferry to catch so go for it and its been...okay. It was true but unless my food and drink deprived eyes are playing up its starting a slight wobble loaded up with kit after miles of eurovelo 4
Load up bike pre tour and trusty cheap front rack develops a sideways motion that could be detrimental to my long term health if it impacts with the spokes on a downhill.......new Tubus rack ordered from SJS...just in time...its more rigid than the bike frame and probably cost more than a bike frame
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
If it counts, just went to wipe down and oil the bike and the back tyre is completely flat 
. Changed it but the old tube pumped up fine and only goes down slowly. I hate p'tures like that as there's no obvious cause. I suspect the valve is damaged 
. Changed it but the old tube pumped up fine and only goes down slowly. I hate p'tures like that as there's no obvious cause. I suspect the valve is damaged 
Rain stopped play today and put an end to three hours work chainsawing in the back garden that resembles the Amazon forest , so I turned my attention to my old bike and changed the old original vintage weinmann brake blocks to some more up-to-date ones. The front brake cable and outer was also changed as it was showing signs of age.
All good fun :-))
All good fun :-))
After Thursday's ride proving to be a little rattly and today's weather to dictate a no-ride, I decided to have a fettle to see if I could find the source and remove, or at least improve this.
Two suspects:- saddlebag and headset.
A check over the bike had everything else a-OK
Headset was definitely loose (dang those potholes) - I could twist the spacers easily by hand. 5 mins later this was all sorted and the stem also nice and secure.
I removed the saddlebag and shook it (simple but effective). It rattled. Emptying it I found a couple of pound coins inside that were rattling against the plastic former inside. I removed everything (tyre levers/patches/spare tube/multi-tool/spare house key) and repacked all nice and tidy and rattle free.
Needs a ride to check properly but that'll have to be next week now!
Two suspects:- saddlebag and headset.
A check over the bike had everything else a-OK
Headset was definitely loose (dang those potholes) - I could twist the spacers easily by hand. 5 mins later this was all sorted and the stem also nice and secure.
I removed the saddlebag and shook it (simple but effective). It rattled. Emptying it I found a couple of pound coins inside that were rattling against the plastic former inside. I removed everything (tyre levers/patches/spare tube/multi-tool/spare house key) and repacked all nice and tidy and rattle free.
Needs a ride to check properly but that'll have to be next week now!
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
I had that happen on a recent ride. I couldn't find anything penetrating the tyre or any holes in the tube but eventually I spotted that the base of the valve was damaged. I thought it had been caused by clumsy installation but further investigation showed that the rim tape was fractionally too far round, exposing one edge of the hole through which the valve fits.If it counts, just went to wipe down and oil the bike and the back tyre is completely flat
I sorted the rim tape out and fitted a replacement tube. I then did a ride which went ok but found that the new tube lost about 40% pressure overnight. I investigated that problem, thinking that perhaps I had missed something embedded in the tyre. Nope ... The problem was that the valve core was not quite in tight enough. (When I held the inflated tube underwater, I found that a small bubble of air escaped from the valve every 7 or 8 seconds.) I tightened the valve core and the leak stopped.
Pure coincidence that I had 2 obscure unrelated problems with the same wheel in 2 days!
