Tubeless dilemma

[rualexander]

I was really hoping these 38mm panaracer gravelkings at 60 psi would change my view on tubeless.

60 psi seems a crazy high pressure for 38mm tubeless Gravelkings.
I'd have thought 40 psi would be a more appropriate pressure.

 

[Ian H]

60 psi seems a crazy high pressure for 38mm tubeless Gravelkings.
I'd have thought 40 psi would be a more appropriate pressure.

They're rated to 60psi (which might be for hookless rims). I run mine at around 50. I find I get a bit of camber steer below that pressure.

 

[Kingfisher101]

Put the punctured bit at the bottom of the wheel so its on the floor and give it a few bounces. It may hold,so I'd see how it goes. If its going flat tomorrow I'd just stick a tube in.

 

[Alex321]

Tubeless tyres, electronic gear shifting and hydraulic disc brakes, not to mention 'strava' etc, when did something as simple and efficient as a bike become so complex (and expensive)

The first three of those are all actualy simpler and more reliable in use, although they do add to the initial expense and complexity.

Strava et al are just for recording, and totally up to you whether you use it (I do, because I like stats).

 

[geocycle]

So, I tried the Stan’s dart and it broke off before going in. That reminded me I had tried one before with the same result. Next plan was a worm, this went in easily but I couldn’t get it to close the hole, a second one was also unsuccessful. Finally I had exhausted options so I decided to put a tube in. I took the wheel outside and emptied the residual sealant. I gave the tyre and wheel a good clean and dried it. All went well and then the Lezyne mini pump decide to unscrew the valve! After much faffing I tightened the valve and switched to the push on Fumpa that had served me well today. I’ll wait until the bike shop opens tomorrow to get another tube then I’m off for a ride. Thanks for all the inputs, it’s interesting to work through these things.

 

[Sea of vapours]

So, I tried the Stan’s dart and it broke off before going in. That reminded me I had tried one before with the same result.

I had wondered if those were as delicate as they look, so thanks for that information.

Following a recent incident where my partner's tyre could not be fixed with a 'worm' - it worked for a while but popped out after about 50km - I have 'invested' in Dynaplugs and also splashed out further by using two on deliberate holes in an old tyre. They have a distinct 'shoulder' so it's hard to see how they could pop out in the way normal 'worms' do. They're also a little easier to insert, though it still requires considerable force. I'm optimistic that they are a more effective, albeit also a more expensive, option than simple worms.

 

[PaulSB]

I run tubeless on both bikes and wouldn't consider returning to tubes. The initial set up can be tricky and I suspect varies between wheel types. My issues have always centred around the valve and a tendency for either the valve to slacken off in the rim or the valve core to unscrew (not really tubeless related) when removing the pump. I now include a one minute check of these points in my pre-ride inflation ritual!!

Another vote for Dynaplug which I've used on 5 occasions. Quick, simple , and robust. I chose this, expensive, kit ahead of other options because it is robust and not something cheap and flimsy that's almost guaranteed to fail. I would much rather plug a tyre than change a tube. Far quicker and easier.

It sounds as though the OP is now sorted. My comment on his situation is that I've never seen a scab form. This suggests to me the damage was always going to need a plug.

My record for sealed "punctures" in one tyre is seven. Discovered when it was time for a new tyre!!!

 

[T4tomo]

60 psi seems a crazy high pressure for 38mm tubeless Gravelkings.
I'd have thought 40 psi would be a more appropriate pressure.

Agree with this, I run my tubed 35mm gravelkings at about 50psi or a bit less if really muddy etc. It does depend a bit whether the OP is loaded up for touring, but sounds more like day rides.

 

[PaulSB]

60 psi seems a crazy high pressure for 38mm tubeless Gravelkings.
I'd have thought 40 psi would be a more appropriate pressure.

I run Schwalbe All round G1s on road as 55 rear and 50 front. On gravel I drop to 50/45

 

[geocycle]

Just a coda to the rear deflation. I was aware that when I picked up the puncture on Monday the front also expelled sealant but it stopped and sealed as it should. I took it into a bike shop today and found it was running at 40 psi, I pumped to 50 psi based on advice above. Unfortunately about an hour later the sealant started coming out in waterfalls from the same hole. This continued through the return 50 km until it reached an equilibrium Id estimate 30 psi. Unfortunately I’ve lost confidence in the gravelkings running tubeless and the front will get a tube later.To be fair they did stop a double puncture scenario on Monday but I can’t trust them to hold a reasonable pressure. I’m also covered in the stuff!

 

[rualexander]

What sealant are you using?
Maybe try a different one.

 

[geocycle]

What sealant are you using?
Maybe try a different one.

Yes, it must be something like that because other folk seem to get on ok with tubeless. I’m using the standard Stans sealant. Does it go off, I’ve had a litre container for a few years?

 

[Red17]

Yes, it must be something like that because other folk seem to get on ok with tubeless. I’m using the standard Stans sealant. Does it go off, I’ve had a litre container for a few years?

I've had problems getting stans sealant to seal a small hole in a gravel tyre and seal a new tyre recently
Just switched to muc off sealant and that seems to have sealed first time although not tested it off road seriously yet.

 

[T4tomo]

Unfortunately I’ve lost confidence in the gravelkings running tubeless and the front will get a tube later.

Ignoring tubed or tubeless for a minute, but on gravelkings, there are so many different versions & tread patterns and (a new ones for 2024) but when i researched them a while back, the standard gravelkings had a poor puncture reputation, but the plus "+" versions had a very good reputation. I went with + version and run them on both mine (SK+) & the OH's (SS+) gravel bikes (tubed, but they come as TLR approved) and without wanting to put the kiss of death on them, they have been resilient. You haven't mentioned what version yours are.

I would note that some manufacturers skimp on protection in dedicated tubeless tyres on the basis that "well the sealant will take care of any holes and we can save 46g by omitting a kelvar layer and then claim its lighter than manufacturer B's rival tyre". My school of though is I' want a very good level of protection regardless, and the I either have a spare tube or some sealant (and tyre plug if necessary) to kick into action should the worst happen.

 

[screenman]

So, I tried the Stan’s dart and it broke off before going in. That reminded me I had tried one before with the same result. Next plan was a worm, this went in easily but I couldn’t get it to close the hole, a second one was also unsuccessful. Finally I had exhausted options so I decided to put a tube in. I took the wheel outside and emptied the residual sealant. I gave the tyre and wheel a good clean and dried it. All went well and then the Lezyne mini pump decide to unscrew the valve! After much faffing I tightened the valve and switched to the push on Fumpa that had served me well today. I’ll wait until the bike shop opens tomorrow to get another tube then I’m off for a ride. Thanks for all the inputs, it’s interesting to work through these things.

So why not just stick a patch on the inside of the tyre where the hole is, I run tubeless on MTB and road bike, without problems, the road bike has run flat inserts, as will the mtb soon.