Touring bike - what should it look like?! *urgent*

[pedaling]

Nice bike for a freecycler! Unfortunately, those wheels are a weird 24" french size. Not only will braking in the wet be very poor, but tyre choice is limited.

I found these http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/category-Tyres--24-(540)-345.htm, but I'm sure if you search for other 24 inch (540) tyres you may find something else.

It could do with a new chain (£10 from any decent LBS) but you may find the chain jumps on the old sprocket. decathlon in Stockport do reasonable 5 speed sprockets for these. The mudguard just needs a new bolt at the back (again LBS) and some bodge/TLc on the front bit.

Call it £50 all in to get it roadworthy, but you can get a similar style bike from Decathlon with alloy rims and modern brakes for £129.......

Not nice bike if not from a freecycler?

I wanted this though because I wanted to learn how to clean it/ make it work... whereas if I just bought a new one, I wouldn't learn. Also I don't want a new bike because I want a slightly rubbishy one to take to uni, in the hope that it won't get stolen.

Thanks for explaining the tyres. I'll have a look at what I can find... why will braking in the wet be difficult because of the tyres?

I've since attempted to clean the chain with hot water, then rinsed it, then sprayed some WD 40 on it. In the process I managed to do something which now means the chain won't turn

What do you mean by 'bodge' and what's 'the front bit'?

 

[cheadle hulme]

Thanks for explaining the tyres. I'll have a look at what I can find... why will braking in the wet be difficult because of the tyres?

Not the tyres, but the rims. They're made of steel and very slippery when wet.

I've since attempted to clean the chain with hot water, then rinsed it, then sprayed some WD 40 on it. In the process I managed to do something which now means the chain won't turn

Actually, that chain and freewheel looks quite good. Use something a bit thicker than WD40 though.

What do you mean by 'bodge' and what's 'the front bit'?

Bodge - make do and mend, just use some thick tape or something on the front bit of the mudguard.

Good luck with your fettling (cyclist term for fixing and general tinkering). If you need to borrow any tools just pm me.

 

[pedaling]

Not the tyres, but the rims. They're made of steel and very slippery when wet.


Actually, that chain and freewheel looks quite good. Use something a bit thicker than WD40 though.


Bodge - make do and mend, just use some thick tape or something on the front bit of the mudguard.

Good luck with your fettling (cyclist term for fixing and general tinkering). If you need to borrow any tools just pm me.

Can I do anything about the rims? Change the brake pads to compensate for it?

Regarding the tyres, should I try to keep slim ones on it like it has at the moment?

I'll buy some bike lube stuff soon. What would you say are the basics I need to buy, aside from puncture repair kit? On that 'clean your bike' link I found it mentioned degreaser, grease and bike lube. Will that suffice?

Might end up pming you. I have nigh on zero tools!

Another reason I want to keep it is because I think it actually looks quite pretty. Shitty reason for something I want to use as transport, I know, but it has charmed me... Plus I don't want my TLC to go to waste!

 

[Sittingduck]

In the process I managed to do something which now means the chain won't turn

Looks like you have somehow allowed the chain to slip off the largest sprocket and fall into the gap between the cog section and the spokes. You will need to pull it out and re-seat it onto a sprocket - or you won't be going too far... no matter how much effort you put in when cycling!

p.s. Good luck with it.

 

[pedaling]

Looks like you have somehow allowed the chain to slip off the largest sprocket and fall into the gap between the cog section and the spokes. You will need to pull it out and re-seat it onto a sprocket - or you won't be going too far... no matter how much effort you put in when cycling!

p.s. Good luck with it.

Okay, I tried doing that, but it looks like the sprocket bit and the bit just beneath that (I don't know what it's called) won't line up, so it's still not turning. I tried making it line up but I don't really understand how to do it because it just seems to come off the sprocket bit? You can see at the bottom of this pic.

 

[Sittingduck]

Okay - looks like you need to adjust the derailleur (the metal mechanism that moves the chain from one sprocket to another). There should be a wire attached to the derailleur - this controls the tension. Where the wire attached to the metal bit there is a barrell shaped adjuster.... you willl need to turn it to make the chain line up. I think you willl need to twist it clockwise to move the derailleur to make it line up. Somebody else here can probably explain it better than me.

This should help (don't mind the guy in the vid... he's a bit creepy but knows his bikes )

 

[pedaling]

Okay - looks like you need to adjust the derailleur (the metal mechanism that moves the chain from one sprocket to another). There should be a wire attached to the derailleur - this controls the tension. Where the wire attached to the metal bit there is a barrell shaped adjuster.... you willl need to turn it to make the chain line up. I think you willl need to twist it clockwise to move the derailleur to make it line up. Somebody else here can probably explain it better than me.

This should help (don't mind the guy in the vid... he's a bit creepy but knows his bikes )

I find he sounds very enthusiastic (his voice) but his facial expressions don't really match up... anyway... am part way through the tutorial so hopefully he will get to the problem I'm having soon. And yes, I tried moving things to see what they do and that's probably how I ended up with this problem!

'WD40 is a solvent, good for stripping rust and un-sticking seized parts. It is not a lubricant and should never be used on your drivetrain, cables, bearings, etc… I only mention it because it is a common misconception. In my years as a mechanic I saw many damaged bicycles because people thought it was good to use WD40 on their chain - or even worse - in their bearings.
I don’t know GT85, as I’ve never used spray lube before. It doesn’t look like something I’d use. Regular bicycle chain oil always works the best. Triflow or 3in1 works well for cable housings and pivots, and obviously a good waterproof grease for bearings.
More about the harmful effects of WD40 here:
[URL="http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/'"]http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/'[/URL]

Just read this... oh dear... I really need to get some oil intended for bikes.

Edit: I think he explains some problems but not the one I'm having, unless I'm mistaken and don't understand the terminology?!

 

[Andy in Sig]

I would suggest you get a copy of Bicycle Technology by Rob van den Plas (you can get it from Amazon) and something like a toppeak Alien multitool. Don't be put off by the title of the book as it is basically a complete "how to" guide about bikes as well as providing some background theory if you are interested in that kind of thing. I've got a copy and it's the first thing I turn to if I need to do some maintenance/repair work I've never tackled before.

 

[Crackle]

Pedaling, push the shift lever as far forward as it will go. Manually lift the chain onto the smallest cog rear. Now gently turn the cranks. If the chain hops about, see which way it's trying to go, up or down.

You have two adjustment screws on the deraileur, the lower of those now comes into play (the lower is the one with L against it) and needs adjusting acording to the instructions in the video posted. Basically if it's not engaging with the lower cog but is riding between it and the next up, screw the screw out. If it's trying to jump off the lower cog, screw it in. Just adjust a half turn of the screw at a time.

A word of warning. The limit screws sometimes work the opposite way to the way I've said. If by turning it as described it gets worse, reverse my instructions.

Once you've done this it should stop hopping. You make the same kind of adjustment for the large cog. Use the shift lever to take the chain up to the 2nd largest cog, then gently move it back to take it onto the largest. Once just on, very gently pull the lever further back. If the chain starts to get noisy and hop, you need to screw the upper limit screw in until it stops hopping and being noisy.

The above will be slightly different to the vid because he's adjusting indexed gears, yours are friction not indexed, so more 'feel' is involved.

One more thing: If the shift cable from the shift lever to the rear deraileur is quite slack once you've put it in it's lowest gear, it's as well to tighten this before you make the adjustments (it looks OK in the pics).

 

[Crackle]

By the way, I think it's a beautiful bike, well worth the effort. As to the steel rims, yes, one day replace the wheels but I rode steel wheel bikes for years, even toured on them, braking is rubbish compared to modern rims but you get used to them. That said, steel wheels are heavy and even a cheap pair of new wheels will give the bike a zippier feel.

 

[pedaling]

I'll let you know how I get on. Am on PC trying to do academic work at the moment. How well that's -not- going. Yep, Crackle, I think it's pretty, which sort of swung it for me too. Plus it's French... and I have French family so I was all a bit 'oooh' over the Frenchness.

 

[Arch]

By the way, I think it's a beautiful bike, well worth the effort. As to the steel rims, yes, one day replace the wheels but I rode steel wheel bikes for years, even toured on them, braking is rubbish compared to modern rims but you get used to them. That said, steel wheels are heavy and even a cheap pair of new wheels will give the bike a zippier feel.

Here, here, she looks lovely.

With the steel rims, I gather you can get brake blocks with leather inserts that grip better on steel. Otherwise, no, they won't grab as well as alloy, but you just adjust your riding style a bit - don't go at it bull-at-a-gate, think ahead, and minimise your need to brake fiercely as much as you can. It's like owning an old car - you make allowances for it.

 

[pedaling]

Okay... I have some more questions for you. I'm leaving the peugoet for a bit because the derailler is annoying me. I don't really get how to change it and need more time to figure it out without getting annoyed at it...

anyhow... I got the Raleigh out now, and I was wondering a few things...

- which is the best way to get rust off a bike? (the Raleigh chain is a LOT rustier than I expected) Is it okay to use cream cleaner/ abrasive (sp?) provided I clean it all off afterwards
- am I ok to use washing up liquid, providing again that I get it all off afterwards?
- any advice on decathlon bike lube/ oil/ whatever else? I'm going to buy some but I'm not sure which is best. The parts on all of my bikes are looking like they need stuff putting on them because they're all very dry... http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/bike-maintenance-3959506/

 

[Arch]

- which is the best way to get rust off a bike? (the Raleigh chain is a LOT rustier than I expected) Is it okay to use cream cleaner/ abrasive (sp?) provided I clean it all off afterwards
- am I ok to use washing up liquid, providing again that I get it all off afterwards?
- any advice on decathlon bike lube/ oil/ whatever else? I'm going to buy some but I'm not sure which is best. The parts on all of my bikes are looking like they need stuff putting on them because they're all very dry... http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/bike-maintenance-3959506/

Rust off the bike, or off the chain? If the chain is really rusty, splash out on a new one (you'll need to note how many sprockets you have, to get one the right width)

No sure what to advise about cleaning, I think everyone has their best methods. You're probably not going to hurt it much with washing up liquid, or cream cleaner, esp if, as you say, you rinse it well. Just beware of using anything too abrasive, so that you scratch the piant and potentially let more rust get hold. I use Muck-off spray on my bikes (mainly to shift the really greasy crud that builds up around the sprockets), but I know some people hate it. Mind you, I only really clean my bikes once a year.

For lube, I use Finish Line (or the Halfords own brand equivalent), comes in bottles like this. Finer than oil, less sticky - comes in 'wet' (green top) and 'dry' (red top) types, I find the dry is adequate for my day to day riding. Again, others will have a favourite to recommend.

 

[Arch]

Okay... I have some more questions for you. I'm leaving the peugoet for a bit because the derailler is annoying me. I don't really get how to change it and need more time to figure it out without getting annoyed at it...

And I know how you feel. What we need is a forum where one of us can reach through the screen and go "here, you twiddle this bit..." Describing parts can be so difficult!