The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 879 Wednesday, February 09, 2022, Quimbaya to Truckstop* 47km Total KM 16413
Min meters 1184, Max Meters 1368,
Total Climb 633 Total Descent 585
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 26

* Google: 4.4857331, -75.7048150

I shoulda stopped!

I'm just not sleeping terribly well these days. It takes a long time to fall asleep and I awake not terribly refreshed. Last night the promised internet didn't work so with no distractions I should have been asleep early. Nope!

It was a dry morning though and I got my stuff downstairs and out onto the Plaza. Feeling a bit meh I thought I'd skip my morning tinto and head for Montenegro about 10km up and down the road. From there I'd cut cross country through the southern part of Armenia, take a main road and then hop off that into some mountains - first town Barcelona!

Looking down on Montenegro

The road, small like yesterday, was surprisingly busy. Traffic tended to bunch behind a truck unable to overtake on the twisty turny route. It was fine, but far from idyllic cycling and not quite what I had in mind when I thought I'd take the smaller road. Had I gone to Cartago yesterday I'd be on a familiar road today.

Roads can be a bit messy but there is always colour and beauty if I keep my eyes open. Fabulous trees would be a feature of my day

Montenegro was interesting from the get go - a steep approach and then a tunnel to take passing traffic under the town.
I walked up the main artery to the Plaza - I couldn't see a steeple but I could see a bunch of trees!
It was a very nice Plaza, a bit rough'n'ready but busy with lots of people. A coffee and I perched myself on a wall to soak.
My soaking, though, was regularly interrupted not by requests for money but demands for money. Looking around I could see that most of the people in the Plaza seemed poorer than in other towns, many older just passing the time. The persistence came from a younger generation, all male. It's not often that I feel uncomfortable in small town Colombia but that was my response.

Five Fabulous Trees!

I grabbed some breakfast, hit a bank (if all goes according to plan there may be no banks for a while) and headed out of town - on another new route!

Struggling up the hill to Montenegro the road split for the tunnel with "Armenia" in big, intimidating letters. That would be my road after the town. While I wouldn't be going into Armenia centre, Osmand was directing me through some substantial suburbs. Seeing that, I'd plotted a longer alternative to keep me on the main road. Suburbs can be tricky because I've no idea how safe or otherwise they are. I'd make a decision when I had to.
La Tebaida was the alternative road and that looked a whole lot quieter. Over breakfast, out with Osmand and a quick look. It looked a much better option and would miss Armenia completely. Sold!

When there were views they were ...... meh. Lots of roadshots today because they were not anything close to meh!

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While there was still traffic the road was bigger (and better) and the views improved. After about 4km I passed the Coffee theme park but pressed on - the road, on my side at least was now empty of traffic. A theme park on my own won't be much fun.

On a good road more gentle than earlier the cycling was very pleasant. Some spectacular trees lined the road (photos ruined by the sun hidden behind clouds).

Immersed! I'm immersed in the countryside!

Another steep climb up to La Tebaida and I headed straight for the pleasant Plaza. A tad quiter than earlier I was charmed by statues (and information boards) of "local" animals - a horse, a squirrel, an armadillo, a dog ...... and to remind me where I am an iguana!
An odd chap was wandering around shouting at nothing and no-one in particular. That's probably the most anti-social behaviour I've seen in a long, long time.
I could easily have stayed. It was lunchtime, the sun was out now and the temperature had risen and the next leg has a bit of climbing. Such a lazy bike tourist!

There's a small río down there. The variety, the quantity and the vibrancy of life around a río has to be witnessed to be believed.

I set off onto a busy main road but a decent shoulder kept me comfy. Some fabulous trees lined the road so while traffic was heavy and views limited I still had something to occupy me. Turning off the main road I was about to start a sweeping descent on a link road when the ominous sky started spitting big blobs of water at me. I'd just passed a restaurant at a filling station so jammed on the brakes and carefully reversed up.
I passed an hour as torrential rain fell then another 30 minutes as heavy rain fell. When it finally lightened, but hadn't stopped, I wrapped up and set off again. I'd a little over 10km to go - how hard could it be?

Ha! Dumbass!

This road wasn't on my route at all. I spied this canopy of trees and decided to turn off. It was a few kms long! Fabulous and absolutely filled with birdsong. A unique experience in a place that offers so many special experiences.

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I was already committed to the descent when the rain picked up again. Inside of 90 seconds it was like I had been swimming. Joining the other road I was horrified to see that it was smaller, narrower and had no shoulder at all. Seeing a few shacks along the roadside I pulled in for a bit of shelter and to don my rain trousers.

Back on the main road. Lots of traffic but again the countryside more than compensated

I passed another hour standing under the roof of an empty shack watching the traffic hurtle pass. Trucks made my heart sink - each one filling the road leaving no room for a loaded bike. To the edge of the road was a steep gulley filled with rushing water - there was a hefty climb ahead of me too. All of a sudden 10km seemed very far away!

Just because I'm on the main road doesn't mean that I lose my "immersion" in Nature

The rain did lighten, but not by much and thankfully the traffic did lighten too. With fading light I decided to go for it. I was just about to set off when there was a terrible screeching noise and a motorbike came flying around the bend ahead of me on its side, the rider hanging on for dear life.
Thankfully he was sliding to his side of the road so there was little danger from oncoming traffic. He seemed OK and waved away the attentions of the first car. At that point I decided to push up the hill utilising the gulley.
It really wasn't pleasant but it was safe. At times there was no gulley just soaked grass and earth and I took the road if empty.

A fabulous tree casting shadow onto my side of the road. A little later I'd take the turn off, lose the shoulder and those grey clouds would have at me. For now though, it was pretty pleasant cycling.

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Arriving at the top I started to pedal again and came to a roundabout. There was also a huge factory, a filling station and a small hostal.
I enquired about a room - basic, not cheap but the guy was friendly and flexible. Best of all I could get my bike up into the room.
I got all my gear up and a cold shower rarely felt so good.

No wifi meant few distractions and no restaurant meant a basic supper supplemented with junk food. But I was dry and safe. Tomorrow's another day!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 879 Wednesday, February 09, 2022, Quimbaya to Truckstop* 47km Total KM 16413
Min meters 1184, Max Meters 1368,
Total Climb 633 Total Descent 585
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 26

* Google: 4.4857331, -75.7048150

I shoulda stopped!

The Town along the way

Montenegro. Sometimes words fail me.

Not the prettiest building or the greatest artwork but in a small town? I love the attitude!

Guess! The building behind is quite dilapidated and an indication, perhaps, of the state of the town. I can't but help think that the tunnel taking traffic under the town has a rôle in the decline

The very vibrant Plaza

The Plaza and the church

A very, very impressive stained glass cross in the church. My photo doesn't do it justice at all but I was agog.

A rocket ship church in La Tebaida

Another very green Plaza

The wonderful animal statues in the Plaza. They won't win awards for style or quality but I love how the simple things are celebrated in these parts. Imagine the council meeting ... "I have a great idea! Let's put statues of dogs and horses in the Plaza!". (I'm grateful to note that there were no cat statues!)

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 880 Saturday, February 10, 2022, Truckstop to Cordoba 20km Total KM 16433
Min meters 1157, Max Meters 1575,
Total Climb 464 Total Descent 258
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

The Big, Big, Sit-On-My-Ass Trip

Rain here isn't like rain in Europe. It's not that I'm such a wuss (only a little one) but in very heavy rain, fading light and a narrow, hilly road a lot of factors come into the "do I stay or do I go" equation.
Brilliantly lit trucks distort the picture, especially in relation to traffic with no lights. The lack of consistency in the quality of lights makes judging distance very tricky. The sheer amount of water adds to the noise and deflects lights in a multitude of directions. Also, it's not unusual to be soaked by a truck or fast moving car as it passes throwing water up into the air. Cycling on the edge of the road and getting hit by a wall of water is neither pleasant nor safe. The motorbike flying along the road on its side was a reminder that no matter what I do there are a whole lot of other people on the road. Judge me all you like ..... I was perfectly happy with my decision

Looking much better in the sunshine!

​

Despite the traffic noise and the factory noise I slept quite well and a little late. A couple of coffees downstairs and I got loaded up just as the sun made an appearance through heavy, gloomy cloud. The sky did look tricky though!

A gap in the traffic. The road is quite narrow and that gulley on the edge would have been full last night.

Setting off I was glad I hadn't tried the road last night. There was little space for a loaded bike (although there were lots of cyclists out) and in rain and impending darkness it would have been unpleasant.

Colombia always throws some colour into the mix

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Barcelona did not disappoint! A delightful little town with an open Plaza and some lovely colourful plants and trees. It's just off the main road but is quiet for all that. I'm noticing a different reaction in myself when I arrive somewhere new as opposed to revisiting a place. There's a sprinkling of excitement as I look for the things that make the place special or unique. I appear to be quite good at that as I rarely see something new on the second visit.

Sometimes the depth of green has to be seen to be believed!

I could have stayed easily enough as I sipped an excellent coffee on the Plaza. Unfortunately there's a dearth of cheap accommodation and a few more villages not too far away as the crow flies ( but higher up!).

Rolling tbrough such an orderly countryside

I also text chatted with Remi, the French bikepacker. He's getting ready to do the Trampoline tomorrow. I'm jealous! And also a little nervous - it's my recommendation. He also did the loop outside of Pasto that I had recommended and loved it. He's given me a couple of tips too for further down the road. I sent him a picture from my "adventure on the mountain" and think I've earned bikepacking legendary status.

Today's río has a split personality!

After Barcelona it was back on the main road for a pleasant few downhill kms then a turn off onto a small road and immediate climbing.

Bamboo trees explode gently out of the ground

One of the great lessons from bike touring is that nothing stays the same. Bad times, tough days will eventually give way to better ones. Well, it's difficult to imagine that yesterday evening and this afternoon were only a day apart in the same part of the country. Such is the wonder of Colombia! Diversity! Of everything!

Taking a breather. I'm in no rush to leave this wonderful part of the world

Today's río washes out roads!

There was a simply wonderful stretch of trees that had me simultaneously struck dumb yet filled with excitement. The beauty of trees is something that this trip, but especially, Colombia has taught me.

​

To be continued.........


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 880 Thursday, February 10, 2022, Truckstop to Cordoba 20km Total KM 16433
Min meters 1157, Max Meters 1575,
Total Climb 464 Total Descent 258
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

The Big, Big, Sit-On-My-Ass Trip Part Two

A quiet road, a surging río that didn't sing so much as bellow and trees that had me stopping every 100 meters or so. Simply bliss! Loon face was back and set in position!

Brace yourselves for lots of trees!

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I may have to retitle this whole story - less of The Big, Big Trip and more of the Sitting on my Ass Trip because I did a lot of stopping and savouring. I'm spoilt for destinations today and have zero rush on me. The sky is looking ominous again and I know if it rains (read downpour) I'll be miserable but ........ but ........... but I haven't come all this way to rush.

They look great (to me anyways) but the atmosphere they cast, the spirit that floats over the road was pretty special. When I first came across them I doddered about for about half an hour. 100 meters up the road I stopped again. And again. And again.

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The río is defiant, surging through the country often beside the road. It's washed out parts of the road in places so it's to be respected but for someone who loves water? I couldn't be happier. It's making art as it breaks around boulders big and small, constantly creating then changing pictures in the bubbles, foam and currents. Dozens of baby waterfalls seem like steps to paradise. It's alive and on a mission. On a laid back road where the noise consists of birds singing, chattering and squeaking and the odd motorbike or pick-up it's the most driven thing around.
The trees are numerous and varied, standing proudly. Where the río is defiant and rushing they are humble and calm. Calming too. The río's full of water not knowing where it's going, enthusiastic if ignorant whereas the green beauties have seen it all before. It seems like every kind of my favourite tree is represented and they look out for me stretching across the road offering shade from the sun before it disappears behind thick cloud. I can't stop myself stopping to soak it all up.

Plants grow on the trees - life on top of life

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Of course it rained. And Murphy's Law applied - it started to rain as I was approaching Cordoba on a piece of road that the engineers had kindly decided would be the steepest! I struggled up, made it to the Plaza and wet, took shelter at a little café. There are worse places to be in the rain!

To the side just a crazy amount of different types of trees. They present such a wild and powerful contrast to the neat and ordered lines of fruit trees

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Now I had a bit of a dilemma. There seemed to be only one accommodation option, a place variously described as a hotel or restaurant outside of town. My friendly coffee man (who had no problem telling me that people who ride their bikes up here are "loco") confirmed that it was the only place in town. Pijao, the next village isn't too far away (with accommodation) but another 500 meters of climbing. I could probably do it before dark but the question is do I want to? A big part of my earlier enjoyment was not being in a rush. Besides, if the rain continued it wouldn't be a lot of fun. I decided to check the local place out.

I couldn't help but think that if the Game of Thrones people saw this road it would be known all over the world. There's a definite sense of spirit and soul along here

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It's outside the small village and up and down some steep roads but what a place!!
I set my tent up under a roof and will have the whole space to myself! If ever there was a reason for lugging my tent around the chance to sleep in places like this is it!

Now that's a tree that has some stories to tell

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The hotel, where I'm camping is on one hill and the restaurant/cafe is on another with a beautiful walk (tough bike push) between them.

Feck me but I'm a lucky bike tourist!

Bamboo. Up close the trunks can seem like some giant has thrown a load of sticks to chaotically stick up out of the ground but a wider view with the soft and gentle foliage creates real magic.

No picture can do this wonderful, loud, powerful río justice. A half an hour on a bridge, another sitting on the bank. Lots of shorter stops. Picking these roads I have no idea what I'm in for but I'm making sure I'm enjoying every single moment

A little tributary. The life around running water is amazing

On another day this would be a pretty good scene. Today? It'll do

​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 880 Thursday, February 10, 2022, Truckstop to Cordoba 20km Total KM 16433
Min meters 1157, Max Meters 1575,
Total Climb 464 Total Descent 258
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

The Big, Big, Sit-On-My-Ass Trip

The Towns along the way

A captivating little house in Barcelona

The whole Plaza. In a way I was very glad that I didn't arrive last night in the dark and pishing rain. Much better to let the town dazzle me in the sun

Some wonderful trees in the Plaza

I'm loving the colours!

Not a lot of streetart but what they had was pretty good!

The church in Cordoba taken in the rain

Not a bad pitch!

Morning view

Feeling jungley​

​

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 881 Friday, February 11, 2022, Cordoba to Pijao 22km Total KM 16455
Min meters 1171, Max Meters 1819,
Total Climb 706 Total Descent 569
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 27

Take the backroad? No way, José!

I sleep great in my tent! The only problem was that everything was so tranquil that I sat down and savoured the night before I ever made it to bed. My only company was a goat in a field next door who butted vocally into my tranquility on a regular basis. And something big that scurried across the metal roof. Nights like these are when I can feel most alone. They're to be shared.

After leaving my camping spot I was facing into this

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I awoke with the sun but was blissfully cosy so slow to actually get up and out into the cool morning. Pijao was probably going to be my destination today and it wasn't far away although with a lot of climbing. I was actually on the road to there so going back to town would be out of my way. This gave me cause to hum and haw about what to do. Eat breakfast here and continue or back to town to eat and then take the road? I decided to eat here and when I opened my pannier to get breakfast - tortillas and peanut butter - I was horrified to have no tortillas! I'd eaten them the other night in the truckstop!! I had a few cereal bars and figured they'd do just as well with some coffee. In the end coffee was enough and I decided to snack on the way.

Haven't had to ford a river in a while! The next ascent was where I revised my plans. At least 500 meters of climbing like this, steeper than now, a descent and minimal food. No thanks! Maybe I'm becoming sensible!

There's a ferocious descent out of the hotel/camping so I walked, slipping and sliding down. The road was interesting, mud and rocks and the typical Colombian "two strips of corrugated concrete" for the steep bits. I slid down and pushed up my feet struggling for grip. I had 500 meters of climbing of this and I stopped to think. I had about 10km to go but most of those kms would be like this. Gizmo showed me the elevation profile got even steeper than this. I've learned my lesson. I turned around and headed for town and a proper breakfast.

Leaving Cordoba in sunshine...... And going downhill. Heat and light mixing with the foliage of the trees is sensual as well as visual

Not an ounce of regret was felt. The town looked great in the morning sun and well fed I set off back on the road I'd come in on yesterday. That wasn't a problem - I'd loved that road and whizzing down was even better!

I am always amazed at the variety of life around a río, no matter how small. As well as being a textbook image of Nature the soundtrack is Life.

My río from yesterday ....... Again. Not a complaint! This is a special rīo.

Best of all I got to go past and under my "road of trees" ...... Again!

No words

Nope! Still no words!

Call the folks in the white coats ....... I can feel something on this road

And one more ...... Just because I can!

​

To be continued........


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 881 Friday, February 11, 2022, Cordoba to Pijao 22km Total KM 16455
Min meters 1171, Max Meters 1819,
Total Climb 706 Total Descent 569
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 27

Take the backroad? No way, José! Part Two

I took my turn for Pijao and the climbing started immediately. I'd have about 600 meters to climb - but it would be on a road as opposed to a track. Not a great road by any stretch but quiet for most of the time. And at times absolutely stunning!

New road, new trees, same old "Wow"

I don't know what's going on but I'm lacking puff when it comes to the climbs these days so I'm taking it easy. A road like this doesn't give a lot off opportunities for stopping and getting off the bike so I'll take them where I find them. One today was on a bamboo bench under a bamboo shelter - a bit of shade from the sun is no bad thing
As I was sitting, relaxing and reading, a man working the field behind me came closer and closer.
I've lapsed into not recounting all the conversations I have - they're becoming just a normal part of my day. This farmer was particularly friendly, delighted to meet an Irishman - he already knows one Irishman - and especially happy to hear how much I'm enjoying his country. I could have stayed chatting - the offer of a drink was made - but after resting up I was feeling antsy for the road.
I got my blessing and set off under the protection of God.

Wild and tame intermingling

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Another thing I omit to mention regularly are the birds and the bugs. Either I'm getting better at bird watching or there are a lot more birds but I'm seeing more and more of them. Fabulous, multicoloured and of all sizes. The vultures are the only ones that I despise. With a passion. The rest are a delightful bonus to spot. Not a hope in Hell of getting a photo though. I'm more than happy to be serenaded as I pass through their territory and excited when I catch a glimpse.
The bugs are just phenomenal. There are just so many - in terms of variety and quantity. It's normal for strange bees, wasps and other buzzers to investigate me. All kinds of strange flies land on me. Butterflies of incredible colour and variety are a regular accompaniment, especially on these quiet roads. Ants are still regularly forming long columns and bustling busily. After eating my tent I'm a little more sceptical of them now. Stopping as I do it's not unusual to pick up a bug hitchhiker. I'll prattle on about trees and mountains but there is so much more to Colombia. Most surprising to me as a bugaphobe is how comfortable I am when they get close and even land on me.

Banana trees! Along a high road with a drop they really create an atmosphere

Progress was slow but steady in its way. I had my eye on a mirador/café around where the road split as a chance for a rest. When I got there it was up an incredibly steep hill (I'll have to do it tomorrow) so I passed by. Spying another Bamboo shelter I pulled in and made my own lunch of fresh bread (bought this morning) and peanut butter. Then on up again.

A lot more order.......

The landscape is fascinating to me. At times it's wild but at other times it's incredibly ordered with lines and lines of crops. The edges, though, are always a bit wild and there's fabulous displays of trees in a variety of shades of green. All the work is done by hand so everything is so tranquil and peaceful. Only walking or cycling are the ways to properly appreciate the scene and the sounds. You'll never hear the sound of a machete in a car!

A lot more wild...... The bamboo trees explode silently in slow motion from along a creek. Roads like this are special

The peak when it came was a relief and I quickly had a reassessment of just how bad the surface was - going up at 6 or 7 kmh is different to flying down seven or eight times as fast!

I am never far from nature

About half way down the rain started to fall just like yesterday! Head down I pushed on but just had to stop at the edge of town. This place was making an effort. I sailed down to the Plaza and took shelter in a bakery then took a wander around when the rain stopped. I'd passed a hostel on my way in that looked like the cheapest place in town and headed back to it.

I *know* I'm on a road but when I come across crazy corners like this I feel like an explorer coming across a wonder of nature for the first time. There's a combination of calmness inspired by the beauty and excitement from the sheer wonder of it all. Or maybe I'm climbing too much!

Checked in, a hot shower (outside!) a chatty lady boss to deal with and I set off to explore
Home was a colourful place!

Remember .... This was my second choice road!

I knew nothing about these roads other than that I hadn't come this way before. I liked the idea of the names of the towns. Damn but I must be the luckiest bike tourist

One little bend ...... So much detail

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 881 Friday, February 11, 2022, Pijao

Arriving into Pijao. I nearly missed the town name on the roadside

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The kind of brutal church and a little río running through the town​

The Municipal building, honouring the role of the Willy Jeep and another angle of the río

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Like a lot of towns this one is steep too!

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It's a colourful town - even in the rain

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Colourful houses in a colourful town

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This is the low grade street art

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This is the high grade street art

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This is special

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But this? I'm amazed no-one tried to paint me because I was stood, rooted, for ages trying to take it in

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Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022, Pijao to Caicedonia 27km Total KM 16482
Min meters 1149, Max Meters 1824,
Total Climb 481, Total Descent 973
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 30

Am I the laziest bike tourist ever or am I doing this right?

There was only one other guest in the hostel last night, an American chap I'd spotted in town earlier. I don't recall seeing someone as pale. We chatted over breakfast - en español so as not to alienate the boss lady - and he expressed an interest in seeing the bike. Not for the first time someone expressed an interest in doing something similar but ........
There's always a but. In his case it was the amount of preparation, the learning. I reigned in my zealot, evangelical bike tourist and explained that if I had thought of the Internet before embarking on my first couple of tours I'd probably still be sitting at home - a shiny new bike sitting in a corner. It's riding a bike - it's really not that complicated.

A climb isn't too bad when the road is as interesting as this!

Breakfast was included, a surprise, so I was able to head straight out of town - although I was lacking caffeine as chocolate was served instead of coffee.
A 200 meter climb and then generally downwards towards Buenavista then further on down then up to Caicedonia. If I felt like it I could continue on to Sevilla although that was all uphill. I have to say I'm loving all the names! Barcelona, Cordoba, Sevilla!

Up and up put the views improve

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Everything was fine until I came to the café that I skipped yesterday because it was up so high. I had no choice but to go up today and it was hell! Ridiculously steep! Looking at Osmand this, and some of the next sections hit the high twenties in terms of gradient! I had a lovely coffee admiring the view and nearly collapsed when I went to pay! 5000 pesos! That's more than €1! To put it in perspective, a coffee in Santa Rosa de Cabal cost 700 pesos!

A bit wild, a bit tamed. What a place to live! It sure isn't an easy life though

The "descent" continued upwards after my coffee break and I pushed up the steep bits from necessity and the less steep bits because the countryside was just so damn perfect!

Even dead trees can be interesting!

There was a bit of a hurry on me when I'd set off after my coffee - Ireland were playing France in the rugby, our talismanic outhalf was being replaced by a guy from my home town and I hoped to use some WiFi in Buenavista to keep up to date with the score - but the country just squashed that urge.

The trees in Colombia are feckin' amazing!​

My miles per day are crap for a "bike tourist" but my smiles per mile are sky high!

It would be more fun going down but hey, it's not too bad going up!

I stopped and savoured. Moved 50 meters and repeated the process. I'm coming to the end of coffee country and I'm feeling it. I can't explain it, it kicks my ass on a regular basis but there is something about this area that doesn't just speak to me, it sings to me.
I have spent hours at various times along the Rhine imagining Lorelei seducing boatmen with her voice. In Colombia Lorelei is real and she is the coffee country.
Water has always been the balm for me. A good river, a big lake, the ocean. Coffee country may just be taking its place.

What fabulous country! Rugby? What rugby?

The view that inspired a 5k coffee!

Ah, I'm not even going to try.......

When people talk about "Colombia" and "high" they're not always talking about this

​

To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022, Pijao to Caicedonia 27km Total KM 16482
Min meters 1149, Max Meters 1824,
Total Climb 481, Total Descent 973
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 30

Am I the laziest bike tourist ever or am I doing this right? Part Two

That's my road way down there! I love looking down on where I've come from. Less so looking up at where I have to go!

When I did arrive into Buenavista the first thing that hit me was colour! So much colour. All these towns are colourful but Buenavista stands out. I grabbed some food and a tinto from a stall, perched myself down, logged onto the town WiFi to get the half time analysis on the radio.

One motorcyclist stopped to see what I was looking at. Perplexed when I replied "the view" he went off again, muttering, I'm sure, about dumb gringos!

A few years ago if I'd read of a bike tourist doing such a thing I 'd have been disappointed. What's the point of going abroad to listen to Irish radio? Well, we live and learn.

What a great feckin' road!

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I'm a great believer in Murphy's law and so it came to pass. It seemed like everyone wanted to talk to me! Not wanting to be that guy I turned down the radio for the chat then zoomed back in when it was over. Four separate conversations during the second half!

I didn't mind pushing up here - it gave me more time to soak it all up

​

We lost but (Joey didn't embarass himself) so I climbed aboard and headed off again. The landscape is changing - a large, flat plain ahead of me. The descent was fast, steep and very, very twisty! Crazy hairpins, gradients into the twenties and a tricky surface. I'm guessing not too many loaded bike tourists go this way - hence all the interest in Buenavista.

Just "WOW!" And one of those silver/white trees for good measure

​

Near the bottom I rejoined the road I'd turned off after Barcelona and was happy to see that it was quieter. Not as exciting as the smaller road it was pleasant cycling.

NL will never be the same again!

I arrived into Caicedonia and headed for the Plaza. A pleasant coffee was had watching the world go by and my second coffee was bought for me by an older guy who wanted a chat.

That's my road! Mine! All mine! (There was hardly any traffic)

​

Others around kept signalling that he was a bit odd but I was happy to chat - maybe I'm the odd one. The vibe was pleasant so I binned the half - hearted idea of continuing on to Sevilla. I took a wander with the bike found a cheap, ground floor hospedaje, had a cold shower and toddled out to explore.

Are you bored yet? If so I recommend you stay far, far away from Colombia!

Buenavista! My response? Slow down even more!

This is Coffee country!

​

To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022,

Buenavista deserves its own post


Maybe because it was Saturday afternoon but the town was less hectic than others

A vista buena of Buenavista

It's a colourful place!

Now that's how to announce your house!

And this was beside it!

I wasn't drunk! The street was steep!

There wasn't a lot of art.......

The church and the little Plaza

Now that's how to make a corner interesting

To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022,

Caicedonia

Fight even if you lack nothing because there are many that lack everything

A roundabout entering town. Colombia is the first country to make proper use of roundabouts!

A rather odd church

The Plaza. Full of life on a bright Saturday afternoon

The town seems to have had better days.

One of the ugliest municipal buildings I've seen

This was in the hospedaje! This is what they push around the Plazas in these parts

Look at that detail!

Palm trees! What's not to like?

At night this young fella was pulling other kids around. No battery operated cars here! And the kids love it!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 883 Sunday, February 13, 2022, Caicedonia to Tuluá 72km Total KM 16554
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1771,
Total Climb 917, Total Descent 1120
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Adiós to Coffee Country

It was very warm last night and again I had problems falling asleep. Then I was awake at 4am for a while. When I finally awoke properly it was after 7 so I roused myself and headed out for breakfast. Walking the street I was chatted up a couple of times for money. More of a ""wham bam" situation than a gentle seduction.

Leaving town on a rolling, quiet, small road. There were a lot of cyclists out

The lady in the little hospedaje was very friendly and cheerful wishing me a good journey as I rolled out. Sevilla would be my target today. A stiff 600 meter climb but barely into double digit kms. Yes, that's a very short day but there's a reason for that. When I leave Sevilla I'll be leaving coffee country. I'm hanging on to it for as long as I can.

Coffee....Bamboo..... All that's missing is a Palm tree!

The climbing didn't start right away as I left town. Rolling would be the accurate description. In an agricultural area. There was no shortage of bikes on the road - roadies and MTBers. There were even ocasional drops of rain from a sky that was mildly threatening. The cloud cover meant I was feeling the humidity. It was after a few kms that the climbing started and I settled in for a long, slow morning.

Today's Río is very orange!

My climbing wasn't helped by acquiring a passenger. After one stop I spotted a rather large spider hanging out of my front, right pannier by a string of web. I watched him climb slowly up and get lost under the rolltop. Normally, the old me would have a freak attack and panic and probably attack the pannier with a stick. The new me left him there for the ride.

I love to look at Palm trees, an elegant reminder that I'm not in Kansas anymore, clusters of Bamboo trees are striking but banana trees? They send a jolt of electricity through my touring nerve!

Ironically, the most prevalent plant wasn't coffee - it was banana and I cycled past many fields of banana with their big, exotic leaves and telltale blue plastic bags over the fruit. There's still a wonderful sense of the exotic from them that tingles my exploring nerve.

Call me an old romantic but I couldn't but think that the Coffee Gods waited until today to reveal coffee flowers to me for the first time. You wouldn't believe how many photos from so many different angles I have. I spent ages (by my standards!) here.

Then as I rose higher coffee began to mingle with the banana and my day started to shine. On a narrow road, ascending steeply there weren't too many places to stop but whenever there was a half chance to park up the bike I took it and explored on foot.

This photo disappoints me. In real life that cluster of bamboo shooting up from the ordered field is a triumph of nature over order. I just love the fact that it has survived, that no farmer has cleared that one patch.

I'm leaving coffee country and my heart is breaking a little. I'll probably see more coffee but it'll be sporadic and without the whole feel of coffee country. At the risk of being melodramatic it's like a parting from a lover, this road is giving me a long slow embrace that transmits depth and meaning. It may well lack the passion and fury of earlier encounters but I am full of gratitude for what was.
As breakups go this one is soft. Gentle.

Wild and order ........

I was nearly out of México before I knew it and straight into mystical Guatemala which tempered my sense of loss on leaving México. This is different. I'm heading into familiar country, Ecuador is down the road, then some big roads, a big city and a plane.
I can't get my head to focus on that part. I can think freely about Spain and my head is swimming with ideas (some of them are even good!) but after I leave coffee country there's a blank, white space in front of me. I am in no rush to enter that space.

Even a dead tree can be impressive

I am going to miss roads like this

And views like this......

​

To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 883 Sunday, February 13, 2022, Caicedonia to Tuluá 72km Total KM 16554
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1771,
Total Climb 917, Total Descent 1120
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Adiós to Coffee Country Part Two

Sevilla!

I finally reached the peak and rolled down into Sevilla. A bit of a ramshackle town I was a bit blown away by the brightness of the Plaza. Sundays are the best days for being off the road and hanging out in the Plaza - it seems like all the town will pay a visit at some stage.
A coffee found at a kiosk on one side I settled down to relax. And savour.
But I couldn't. Something was off, something I couldn't put my finger on. My plan to stay for one last evening in a coffee town was feeling wrong.
I had passed a likely hotel (steep stairs) and could see another couple on the Plaza, just as steep. I was feeling antsy and didn't feel like putting down roots.

Leaving Sevilla and looking out onto a different world

Out with Osmand to have a look. Once I descend out of the mountains I'm back on the PanAmerican on the same road I travelled north. Andalucía is down the road, a crazy town that I liked but I'm reluctant to revisit. Tuluá is further. I stopped there but didn't stay. It had a nice river. That'll do.

I hopped on and rolled out of my last coffee town.

Not too different too quickly

​

The descent continued on a road that was treacherous at times, great fun the rest. Immediately my views changed to a smooth, flat plain the only mountains way off in the distance. Most of the traffic was on the opposing side so I had reasonable freedom to pull in and stop.

Colours!

When things started to level off I was in sugar cane country and I could see two of those "road trains" driving through an empty field for another load. Inside of an hour I was in a completely different world.

Getting lower.......

There was a nasty "bump" on the elevation profile that had me sweating and to keep the pressure on the cloudy sky had turned black and thunder was rumbling ominously.
After the hump things levelled off and I made good progress to the PanAmerican rejoining at Uribe.

Lower still and things are changing.....

​

Having had nothing since breakfast I pulled in for a chorizo, served with a potato and a bottle of coke. As I set off the rain started to fall. Those clouds were coming up behind me so I had a race! It's been a while since I raced a thunderstorm!

Now this is flat!

As I flew along the good shoulder more traffic passing me in five minutes than most of the last five days I figured something out. This is why I was unsettled in Sevilla. The road up had given me the send off that I needed. Hanging around could only damage that. Here, on a flat road cycling like I haven't cycled in weeks, powering the pedals, driving myself along I was taking back control. I wasn't going to go meekly into the great white void in front of me. I was going with purpose!

I intrigued the locals

Speed hasn't been a thing on the bike for quite a while but there was tremendous satisfaction in keeping Gizmo above 30 kmh.
I stopped once, perturbed by the sky and booked a cheap place on Booking. Tuluá is a big place and I didn't fancy looking for a hotel with a thunderstorm bearing down on me.

Inside a couple of hours I'm in a very different country

Turning off for Tuluá the road became familiar and stopped at traffic lights the female passenger of a car peppered me with questions about my trip. When the lights went green her driver, presumably her boyfriend, took off like the proverbial rocket! Bike envy!

Bye bye to the coffee country

​

I found the hotel easily, checked in and got a cheap, basic room from a very friendly lady. A cold shower and out to explore. There's a river I want to see.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 883 Sunday, February 13, 2022, Caicedonia to Tuluá 72km Total KM 16554
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1771,
Total Climb 917, Total Descent 1120
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Adiós to Coffee Country The Towns along the way

The church in Sevilla

The bright, colourful and cheerful Plaza in Sevilla

Guess!

The same bright buildings......

Tuluá.... Again!

A wealthy town there are some elegant buildings in good nick

The río where I hoped to sip a coffee and watch the water flow past. It wasn't to be

Another church I came across on my wanderings

A bigger church. The trees are doing it a favour - full frontal it's pretty ugly

A lot of towns display big maps of their municipal areas (far, far larger than the town itself). This shot captures a common sight in the larger places - a person asleep on the path.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/