The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 892 Tuesday, February 22, 2022, El Bordo to Mercaderes 57km Total KM 16939
Min meters 627, Max Meters 1175,
Total Climb 855, Total Descent 673
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

Old Skool Rulez OK?

It's hard to capture the chaos of the early morning. Motorbikes, food stalls, people rushing hither and tither......

I had a simple goal last night - get a good night's sleep and get up early. While it wasn't the greatest night's sleep it was ok and I was up, out and on the road before 7am - the earliest for quite a while. I skipped breakfast planning on eating in Patía about 12km down the road. I did stop for a coffee though, buying it from an old chap at the Plaza. He told me it was Venezuelan coffee and after he finished pouring it from his flask he added just a couple of drops more, nodding over at Roccado across the road and saying I might need it. Such small touches, the little details, the connections are what separate the professionals from the amateurs. It stuck a smile on my face that lasted longer than my coffee.

And then the calmness of the early morning on the road.....

​

I'm not sure when exactly it happened but my morning routine has evolved. I remember heading south and getting a coffee and a bite from one of the many food stalls. There was usually a bit of interaction, a chat, a connection but somewhere along the line I started hitting a bakery for some kind of scrambled eggs. It's probably a healthier breakfast but the connection is different. It's lacking.

Birds singing to me, the sun reflecting off the higher clouds the lower ones snagged on the hills......

Traffic was chaotic and it was bin day, a slow refuse truck working its way out of town and holding up the traffic in my direction. Well, most of the traffic. The motorbikes weaved in and out freaking the bejaysus out of me. Out of town things settled down. And down was the operative word. A long, gentle descent lay ahead of me and once I'd let the backlog of traffic by it was very peaceful. Except for the crappy surface. But that wasn't bothering me this morning - going slow was the way to go.

Not a bad road at all! (In reality it was quite tricky to ride on)

It was a beautiful morning. The sun and clouds were playing on mountains to my right, working in tandem to illuminate some areas while shading others. Some clouds were still snagged on some of the lower hills. Views were limited though by heavy vegetation but that meant there were lots of birds and they were singing the morning away.

There were hundreds of these guys all trying to cross the road. I noticed something similar on the way north (can't remember if it was around here) but for whatever reason they were all concentrared in one area maybe a couple of kms long.

​

My happy heart sank when I arrived in Patía, recognised the little church and remembered this as the place with no coffee! It had no breakfast either! Estrecho would be the next spot with 25km on the clock.

Today's río was ....... lacking water.....

The descent had levelled off by now but I was well able to keep up my momentum. The road surface was terrible at times, though. The road was wonderfully twisty and turny and usually with a canopy of trees.

The sun is out, rising and working its magic

When I arrived in Estrecho I realised that I'd actually stayed the night here! A more thorough bike tourist would have reread their notes. I like the element of surprise! I guess it's a sign that some places speak to me more than others.

Removing sand and stones from the río

I had breakfast, another coffee and relaxed for a while. The next stage was flat to the "town" of Mojarras. I say town but in reality it's a crossroads, a couple of shops and not much else. That's where I could continue on the Pan-American back to Pasto or turn off onto the old Pan-American and go back a different way. I'd spent a bit of time investigating last night and the old road was certainly harder - longer, higher and rougher. The new road was safer, in that I was familiar with it. More services too. I'd make up my mind in Mojarras. I set off and for about ten blissful minutes there was no traffic.

I completely missed this the last time on the road!

On a second visit Mojarras was even more depressing than the last time. With limited food options I got a cold drink and some cake and rested up. It was coming up to 11 am and the start of the hottest part of the day. My altitude is about 550 meters so it's hot! Mojarras confirmed the idea that there would be a certain amount of disappointment involved in retracing my pedal strokes so I stocked up on water and took the old road.

Earlier: I like being above the clouds!

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 892 Tuesday, February 22, 2022, El Bordo to Mercaderes 57km Total KM 16939
Min meters 627, Max Meters 1175,
Total Climb 855, Total Descent 673
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

Old Skool Rulez OK? Part Two

The climbing began immediately. And steeply. I'd a steep climb to 1000 meters then the gradient eased off but I'd be climbing the rest of the day. There may have been a whole lot of meters to climb but there was feck all traffic to climb with. I set off with birdsong cheering me on.

Climbing now......​

​

​

It's not a great road, no shoulder (neither does the new one for long stretches) but I was enjoying myself. I had lots of time, cloud cover was blocking out the worst of the sun and as is typical here the views didn't take long to kick in. The road weaved over and back, switchback after switchback, at first stretching above me, later above and below and then ultimately just below.

That little clearing captivated me. Was it natural or had some farmers cleared it? Why just there?

I must be as thick as a short plank but I still get a sense of dread when I look up and see a truck or bus trundling along my road way up the mountain. Then, looking down and seeing the road I travelled not that long ago really excites me. Look up, dread, down excitement. Like a feckin' child!

More mountains but different. And my road down there!

​

On such a quiet road with lots of barriers I had ample places to stop on either side of the road so I used lots of them. I didn't need to adopt my "climb 100 meters take a break" rule because I was stopping regularly anyway. I could hear traffic above and below me but because of the steepness and healthy vegetation my views of it were limited.

Colombia really does throw a whole lot of different landscapes at the wandering bike tourist

​

Every now and then I'd hit a button on Gizmo and see myself closer to the 1000 meter mark. When I did arrive there was no fanfare but a noticable drop in the gradient. Instead of regularly dealing with double digit grades I was pedalling at double digit speeds.

There's a simplicity, a brightness and a bit of pride that I really, really like. Of course, being Colombia it's miles away from the town!

I was now on a plateau. Away to my left was a row of blue mountains, away off in the distance and to my right there was an angry, thunderous sky closing in. The thunder started and became more frequent. It's funny, thunder here is loud and very frequent. At home if I heard such thunder I'd be hightailing it for cover but here it's just a normal, everyday event.

The great thing about climbing - the views! And my road down there!

Mercaderes was the next town I was aiming for. I knew there were places to stay and although early enough to stop I had a 600 meter climb to the next town. There was nothing impressive until I got to the small, neat Plaza. The church, built in 1969 is the latest incarnation for a parish that goes back 450 years! Then I saw a fabulous tree in the Plaza and I was hooked. The thought ocurred to me just how good it feels to be back exploring.

This one has three levels of my road! And yes! It was my road. There was hardly any traffic.

I pulled up in front of the church for the traditional photo then was mesmerized by a tree! A fruit seller took advantage of my good mood to pitch a sale and a few minutes later I was eating a mix of different fruit over a base of sweet flavoured crushed ice. Not coffee, but not bad at all.

It seems so different from yesterday, from last week, last month

Then I moseyed my way through the town and found a place recommend on iOverlander. For 15k (about €3) I have a room big enough for the bike and myself and a shared (very clean) bathroom and shower. A cold shower later and I was off out to explore.

Up top, still climbing but much more gently across a plateau

It looks like I made the right decision to take the old road.

Again, so different......

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...g&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 892 Tuesday, February 22, 2022, Mercaderes

Lots of low buildings

Not a one horse town - a two horse and a foal town!

Architecture tends to be functional

But colourful......

The pleasant church

Always a bit of colour

The watertower

Don't go by the picture ...... This is an amazing tree

For a two and a half horsepower town the sunset wasn't bad!​

​

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world


Ah! It's funny how the world works. I'm writing this up with a big grin across my face and a little while ago I posted about a few days back when I had zero enthusiasm. This bike touring thing is good for the soul!

It was a very pleasant start to the day rolling easily along a relatively flat landscape

I had a poor night's sleep in a bed with a mattress that sagged so much it felt partially like a coffin. Nonetheless I was up and out (a poor, sleepy eyed girl having to let me out) and grabbing a coffee well before 7am.
I like to play a little game by asking if they have coffee and reacting excitedly when they (nearly always) say yes. It's 50/50 whether people respond with a smile or a grunt. This morning the girl responded with a bright, beaming smile and that alone relegated the poor night's sleep to ancient history.

Those clouds!!!

I had some scrambled eggs, a second coffee then fired up Gizmo and off I went. Dumbass had mislabeled the file I made last night and nothing was showing up on Gizmo. Instead of a climb and a long descent followed by a climb I actually had more plateau then a bugger of a climb! Oh well.

The landscape had soul this morning. An other-worldly atmosphere......​

The road was rolling up and down and to either side and in front I had mountains. There's no escaping them around here. Clouds were hugging the monsters making them seem less intimidating. I do like my mountain hugging clouds.

With the peaks of the (relatively) low mountains hitting the clouds I started to get a feeling that I was cycling on top of the world....... Ha! Dumbass!

Since the mountains were still pretty far away they were a blend of grey and blue, a little vague and decorated prettily by the clouds but as I rolled along the deserted road and got closer they began to change. Details became clearer, shades of colour emerged out of the gloom, and the sun, which had been hidden behind low cloud, now began to dance over them. Despite being at only about 1200 meters of elevation I started to feel like I was on top of the world. Or at least close to the top. Only the mountain peaks were higher.

The sun and the clouds. A creative pair.

This is the genuinely amazing thing about Colombia - the sheer, mind bending variety of the place and the speed at which it can change - and I'm no speeder on the bike. I am finally getting an understanding of what diversity looks like. Never mind Central America, I've been in Colombia five months and most days I have been seeing or travelling in mountains. And yet, I've seen none like this. I thought I had seen all there was to see. Ha! Dumbass!

Detail lost in the distance. Mystery. I wanted to get there......

The whole experience was made more special by virtue of the fact that I had the road practically to myself. This just added to the whole other-worldly experience.

All for me! Hardly a soul along the road......

Of course, nothing lasts forever and the wide open plateau began to close in and I lost my open, epic views. The Touring Gods had laid on a hump to get me used to climbing before the big one and passing a little settlement of a few houses I called out to the lady in a shop asking about coffee. But of course!

It's bloody hard to take a shot into the sun but I'm quite proud of this one

Accompanied with bread and cheese it was a revitalising little snack. Two older women were running the shop, well into their sixties at least and kept up a running conversation betwen themselves and anyone who stopped by.

Mountainous Mystery......​

The local news agency I reckoned judging by what snippets I could pick up, soaking up what news they could to pass it on to the next person. There was no problem talking about the Gringo on the bike despite the fact that said Gringo was well within earshot!
An older man pulled up on his motorbike and sat, still as a very still thing. He didn't say a word just waited. For what I had no idea. After about ten minutes one of the women walked over to him and got on behind him, a bag of what looked like plastic and paper recycling in her hand. For an older woman she had no issues hopping on. Sometimes the older women sit side saddle but not this lady. With no words exchanged they headed off up the road.

The foothills before the big ones.....

​

To be continued.......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world Part Two

And yet another world......

I set off again too, a short, steep climb, one long descent and then the serious climbing started. Once again the countryside had changed. The blue, vague mountains were no more, instead I had green, smooth but rolling ones. In such a short distance everything had changed again. I was no longer on top of the world but it felt like I was getting there.

Now the foothills are gone and their big brothers and sisters are here

I surprised myself when I realised that I was actually enjoying the climbing. Normally, at best, I tolerate it, taking my pleasure in the views on offer but today was different. With such a quiet road I could pretty much use the whole width, the zig zagging giving me more perspectives and a distinct feeling of being king of the road. And again because everything was so still whenever there were trees there were birds chirping and singing. I lost quite a bit of time as two birds seemed to carry on a musical conversation between two trees.

I was starting to realise that I was in a special place.....

There were many barriers of steel or old concrete where I could stop and I made use of a lot. I was in no rush and the countryside was changing again to steeper slopes and lots of vegetation. Because there was so little traffic it seemed that every second driver was honking or waving in support.
It was incredibly pleasant.

The birds sang to me as I walked along this road trying to take it all in. If I stayed a week I don't think I'd have succeeded.

Epic

Conqueror of mountains!

Stopped on the roadside trying to photograph some colourful buds two motorbike/scooters pulled up behind me and four young women hopped off to have a chat. A chat. Not an interrogation. A question was asked, the answer listened to and the next question followed on from that. The most chatty was speaking too fast for me and her friends seemed to enjoy the fact that I had to keep telling her to slow down. I was amused to be asked if I wasn't scared. I'd imagine most groups of four young women in Europe would be reluctant to approach a bearded, sweaty guy on the side of a road with almost no traffic having turned around to catch up with him. It was a very pleasant experience, interesting and fun and I was so, so happy to have my Español.

The locals staring at the Gringo

There were loads of valleys like this running in all kinds of directions

On a day like today Roccado deserves to be seen. He gets me to all these places

No words

​

To be continued.......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world Part Three

Some trees are just special

I continued on and stopped at a roadside fruit seller to buy a couple of bananas. I wanted oranges too but she had none. She didn't want to take any money from me, something that didn't sit right, outright refused to accept the 2k note I proffered but reluctantly accepted the 1k in coins. I told her she wasn't helping me by reducing the weight on the bike

Sometimes they have a tree buddy. What you don't get in this picture is that there are a pair of birds, one in each tree, calling out to each other. There seems to be a bird conversation taking place and I get to hear it all because there is hardly a soul around. This was a special place

A little later I had the opposite experience, stopping to buy a couple of oranges and was charged 2k - a complete rip off. However, I had my heart set on a roadside lunch there not being any options that I knew of along the way.

Serious climbing means the landscape and its vegetation is changing again.

I passed the sign for La Union where I was probably going to stay a good 5km from the actual town (and another couple of hundred meters of climbing). A little later I pulled in for lunch - my banana and peanut butter rolls. Delicious!

That's my road up there!

The Touring Gods had kept the steepest part of the ascent for last and I found myself pushing a lot. Spying a view I parked up and took a couple of shots before getting talking to a local. Again, a conversation not an interrogation and fun. It's easy to tell people that you like their country but I think my enthusiasm tends to run away with me. I am fully honest, though, and I'm pretty critical of Colombian food. Sigh. I miss México.

This tree caught my eye.....

And its colourful buds and flowers

I continued on up and got pulled over at the edge of town by another chatty man. He told me that the next town had no hotel (I could only find something on Google with no reviews in 4 years) Another chat and an offer for a cheap night in his hotel there on the edge of town. Grateful but wanting to have a look at the town proper I explained my habit of a coffee in the Plaza and continued on.

From other-worldly back to the familiar of coffee country

Looking back on a little settlement I had passed

Today's río in both directions. Have I ever mentioned the life that a río brings?

Welcome to La Union, land where people work in the aroma of coffee....

And proof! Coffee drying along the roadside. At least this was off the road. Another house directly on the road had laid a tarp on my side, placed the coffee on it and plonked a section of tree trunk in front as a warning to traffic.

​

To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world Part Four

A local poet, I believe

The Plaza was closed for rebuilding but I got a coffee in a little restaurant. It's a busy town, not small at all, with narrow, steep streets. The Plaza being closed off with big sheets of plastic creates a chaotic air. Heading back out to the hotel I spied another with ground floor access. An enquiry turned up a decent rate and I accepted. I felt bad for the friendly man but his was well on the edge of town. I was in the centre early and I could get a couple of things accomplished - my beard needed a trim badly and I needed some new shorts.

The rather dull church, away from the Plaza

A hot shower and I was ready to explore.

On a school

First off was a beard trim from a chap who was a tad surly and complained about the state of my beard. Lighter, I set off to find some shorts. The cheap, thin nylon ones I am currently using are practically never dry and being so thin I'm thinking that can't be good for my poor ass. I can't find any hiking style shorts or pants so something with thicker material will do. I found some in a shop with two guys looking after me and spied a very light pair of long pants too. As I was leaving the bossman stopped me to have a conversation and was insistent that I needed to try a Colombian peanut snack - great for cycling he told me. He sent one of the young lads off to buy some then presented me with the whole pack! He wanted to welcome me to his country!Such kindness! We had a great chat and again I was so happy with myself for my Spanish. It really has changed the experience of my trip.

I had another coffee back at the hotel and a very pleasant chat with the barista, Christina, who didn't stop smiling - rare in Colombia.

These are buggers!!!

After a very cheap dinner in the hotel I returned to my first coffee place for a chocolate waffle I'd spied earlier. The girls were all busy talking about me and a man who came in knew that I was the Irish guy on the bike! La Union is not a small town! Maybe in another mood I'd be put off by people talking about me and being recognised by complete strangers but I detected no illwill just curiousity. I'll happily accept a little bit of fame.

Colombian mountain towns - steep, usually bright and lots of motos

My day started with a bright beaming smile and it ended with one too.

What a great day!

Ludo!!! (Perhaps a different name where you come from). A simple game but a lot of fun. I have never seen such a fancy board! Loved it! No-one to play with!​

The Plaza is being redone. Locals are clearly not happy about the loss of trees

From the top of those colourful stairs

Higgildy piggidly street so typical of these towns. There is nothing, and I mean nothing to make me think "oh, this is s nice place" - except for the people.

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 894 Thursday, February 24, 2022, La Union to Arboleda 31km Total KM 17000 (Happy now @IaninSheffield ? )
Min meters 1693, Max Meters 2561,
Total Climb 889, Total Descent 914
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21

The day of the chats amongst the terrorists

I woke up last night at about 3:30 am bright as a button. Much too early to get up I rolled over for another snooze and didn't wake up until after 8am. That's late! I had a simple breakfast, a coffee and packed up to set off. I had to stop and say goodbye to Christina, one of the coffee girls from yesterday. She warned me to be careful that the ELN (National Liberation Army) were active in Nariño, the department (State) I am now in again.

Climbing out of town. I am so incredibly spoilt with views that this is just meh.......

I set off climbing out of the town - the Touring Gods were wasting no time today! - and got chatting to a guy on a motorbike - as one does in Colombia while cycling along. Another warning. Apparently something had happened in town last night. Two warnings and I hadn't even left the town!

It wasn't the greatest morning, weatherwise, but at least it was cool. I had no "otherworldly" experience to fire me up for the day like yesterday. Instead a near 800 meter climb. And a climb with few views. The town stretched a long way along the road, buildings blocking out early views. Then trees and vegetation covered them up. Finally cloud and mist obscured the vistas I could see.

Manuel pulled up beside me on his pushbike with abnormally skinny tyres to chat. A pleasant old guy, he didn't stop smiling, telling me what a great chap I was. He wanted to be in a video with me but settled on a selfie. Happy, he set off again. After giving me a warning about terrorists.

Mi amigo, Manuel

It's not that I take these things lightly but if I was to give them too much weight then I wouldn't be on this road at all. It's far too quiet. I won't do anything too dumb - I'll avoid travelling after dark, for example, avoid stealth camping - but if I dwell on the danger I'll be miserable.

I passed through San Pedro de Cartago, the small place that the man yesterday told me had no places to stay. It had two hotels! I didn't feel quite so guilty about not returning to his hotel.

Cerro de la Jacoba. This I love! A magical, mysterious mountain that is the source of myths and legends dating back centuries. Unfortunately the translation isn't exactly clear but who needs clarity for fables?

​

I stopped for a coffee at a little roadside place and had a second. When I went to pay my money was refused. A big bear of a man with a gentle smile simply said "tranquillo" and waved me away. I can't accept that from a little roadside place. We argued (good naturedly) and I put down 3k pesos (a reasonable price) to have 2k returned!
Later, I pulled up in a little settlement to buy a couple of bananas. No charge. This woman absolutely wouldn't take any money, smiling when she told me she couldn't make change.

There's never a dull moment! Wild cats!

​

How can I worry about terrorists when this is what I experience? That's not to mention all the honks and waves I get along the way. There's so little traffic that it seems just about everyone wants to cheer me along. Or stop for a chat as one man did.

If I couldn't control my imagination Mother Nature could have been terrifying - any number of baddies could be hidden in the mist but all that seemed to emerge was friendliness and kindness

​

Stopped to take a photo, an older woman walking by stopped for a chat. In working clothes, well worn and soiled with dirt and labour her eyes lit up when I told her where I was from.

Every now and then we meet someone that we want to talk to until we run out of words and she was one of them. So animated, so excited, she seemed to be living every stage of my journey, asking about the other countries. Once again I was so happy to be able to speak this language that turns simple meetings into memorable events. She laid down blessings upon me before we parted and while I've received many, many blessings on my journey and didn't doubt the veracity of any, these were given with such emotion, such meaning that I felt different moving off. A spiritual force field around me, perhaps.

It didn't make the climbing any easier!

The rushing water was the most frantic thing in the early part of the day. I certainly wasn't pushing myself, the traffic was light, considerate and often very friendly.

​

If I enjoyed yesterday I tolerated today. There was little of interest to see - by Colombian standards. With little to see my motivation lagged. So I stopped and ate one of my peanut butter treats bought for me yesterday by the man in the shop. Stopped on the side of a very quiet road in a volatile area eating snacks given to me as a gift ......... And I'm supposed to worry about terrorists!

There's subsidence....... and there's Andean subsidence!

​

My destination today was vague. The next town, Buesaco was two climbs away with a long descent in between. With my late start it was looking tricky. There was a place marked on iOverlander but I couldn't be sure it was still open. After the warnings I didn't want to risk riding in the dark. In any case my first goal was to reach the top of the first climb. One climb at a time.

I have the temerity, the arrogance , the cockiness to declare that this view is nothing special! Colombia has created a monster!

Landslides, dodgy edges and Colombian Magic tape barely register in my consciousness anymore

​

To be continued.......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-81

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 894 Thursday, February 24, 2022, La Union to Arboleda 31km Total KM 17000 (Happy now @IaninSheffield ? )
Min meters 1693, Max Meters 2561,
Total Climb 889, Total Descent 914
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21

The day of the chats amongst the terrorists Part Two

Despite the warnings I received early in the day the road itself represented the greatest danger to me

Colombian Magic Tape does wonderful things, here holding back an entire hill

​

Eventually I did summit to a sky that was threatening rain and a pretty hefty wind. As is the way here, there tends to be a settlement of sorts at the top and bottom so I pulled into a little bakery for a coffee. I had been looking forward to a picnic but even after climbing I was cold. Sitting on the roadside eating suddenly looked less attractive.

Cheap, functional and bright! I loved it!

​

I ordered a coffee from a grumpy lady who asked for money as soon as it was served. This has never happened to me in Colombia! Even when I knew that was all I was having and wanted to pay. I also wanted a bite to eat and asked about the different breads looking for something savoury. A man then stepped in and started pointing out what was sweet and savoury - and getting them all wrong. I drank my coffee and ate my bread and went to pay. He was in charge of money while she told him the price - 3100 pesos. I proffered a 10k note and got 9500 in change. I handed it back and explained he'd made a mistake that this was almost what I had given him. Clearly thinking I was a smart ass he counted it all back to me - 9500 pesos. "From 10k?", I asked. "Sí" he said angrily so I took my change and went outside.

As attractive as the view is, and as quiet as the road is, I really can't afford to take my eyes off the road for too long

​

I donned my rain jacket for the descent and set off. There would have been some epic views but a mist was blowing and I could see nothing. That may not have been a bad thing - the road was treacherous with many landslides, some of them permanent fixtures, and lots of subsidence and potholes - a distraction may have been dangerous. As I dropped lower the temperature started to rise and a few patches of blue started to appear above me. I slowed right down then stopped and enjoyed a ciggie basking in the freedom to be able to stop and wait for the weather to improve.

Ha Dumbass!

The big drops started to fall. I set off again reminding myself (once again!) that my weather forecasting skills are as good as my navigational skills and based entirely on dumb luck!

I think most people would look at that sky and think "Uh oh!". But not me! I take it as a sign to stop and wait for it to pass....... And it does ...... right over me!

​

The rain picked up and I pulled in under a tree that seemed to offer some shelter. It didn't so I donned my rain trousers and set off again. Then the rain got heavier and I started to get cold. I got excited at the sight of a sheltered bus stop but it was full of motorbikers. I continued on. Then the rain lightened then stopped altogether. Soon I was cycling in dry country. Still cold, though.

My notes tell me that the views were nothing special. I'm looking at these now for the first time in over 9 months and I don't know what I was thinking! The thing is with these views that they are felt as well as seen.

​

I approached the small settlement that had my iOverlander stop and passed through. There on the outskirts I found it but it looked closed. Uh oh. So far as I knew there was nowhere to stay until the next town about 700 meters up. And I had about two hours of daylight and changeable weather. I wasn't going to give up without a fight!

Mountain towns. To me they seem like tough places to live. And that's with roads (such as they are), the internal combustion engine and electricity. What were they like 100 years ago? And how hard must it be to work those sloping fields?

​

I started calling out and a voice answered. Soon enough an older woman showed up and we had a little chat. Her daughter was the boss so we waited for her. I saw her eyes when they landed on the bike and knew I had no more problems!

There's a refreshing, life giving fury to the water in these parts

​

I got a room, more expensive than expected but still reasonable, in a separate building, met the dog, her son (who was amazed by the bike and even more amazed by the map of my journey - thanks Netman) her aunt and her mother returned with three big oranges for me.

A teeny tiny settlement on the way down. I have tremendous respect for the effort and vision behind these displays

​

I was home and not a terrorist in sight.

Sweepìng down out of the rain and into the sun

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 894 Thursday, February 24, 2022, La Union to Arboleda 31km Total KM 17000 (Happy now @IaninSheffield ? )
Min meters 1693, Max Meters 2561,
Total Climb 889, Total Descent 914
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21

The day of the chats amongst the terrorists - The Towns along the way

These scattered settlements barely feature on a map but there's always a church

Another roadside church.......

Forgive me but I couldn't not wonder how they managed to conduct funerals up to this church

In Europe the local council would get a fine for using non-standard colours to mark the side of the road..... but this is Colombia!​

San Pedro de Cartago. It's not a busy place, not a big place, it doesn't appear very prosperous and yet........ You'll see Roccado parked up in the background as I went off to explore with no qualms​

The steps up to the church (taken from the door). These "step paintings" impress me so much. I can't imagine the vision required to create them​

The church - not quite as "whole" as we might think at first glance. A temporary roof over the congregation and a more permanent one over the altar but with open sky between the two!​

San Pedro de Cartago: Maybe to some eyes this looks tacky, or neglected or over-reaching but for a small village along a dead road it speaks of optimism, of energy, of defiance. On a wet, gloomy day it's a welcome blast of vivid colour that cheered this traveller's soul. ​

Knitting a social life for an inclusive city. Perhaps the use of "city" for a roadside village hints at some kind of delusion but it's rare that this stranger feels anything but welcome in these places.

San Pedro de Cartago is not big ..... but it has two Plazas​

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever!

Last night had been very pleasant. I had a comfortable room on the ground floor, Roccado outside under a roof. And several generations of women looking after me. Abuela (Grandma) offered me coffee while I was already boiling water. A plate of chips arrived soon after. Then a visit to check out my stove as I cooked up a simple dinner. Lots of oohs and ahs. Of four dogs I got to meet three. All rescued from the street, two quite timid but full of energy, one a big, floppy baby. Reading my book after a warm shower with one hand on a dog's head. Bliss!
Later I was joined by the woman of the house for a chat and a smoke as I sat outside.
(Months later as I was replaying this wonderful road in my mind and recalling some of the people that I met I realised that her pointed references to her ex-husband and the loneliness of being single in such a remote area was quite probably an invitation of a different kind. Ha! Dumbass! I was just happy that I could keep a conversation of sorts going in Spanish!)

It didn't start off epicly but this was going to be one of my greatest days on a bike. And this was considered to be good weather! :-)

​

To keep my options open I planned on an early departure and after a good night's sleep and a 6 am wake-up the rain put the kibosh on that. I still got up and made a breakfast of coffee, oatmeal and oranges on the little terrace outside my room. I had some more climbing to do and based on a picture hanging on the wall of the hotel in La Union that was somewhere along this road I reckoned I was in for some spectacular views. I saw no point in rushing off into gloom, rain, mist and low cloud. I drank coffee and read my book. Abuela was over to offer breakfast - a bike tourist never refuses a second breakfast - and soon scrambled eggs, a delicious cheese and potato arepa and a coffee appeared on my table. More bliss!

A ramshackle viewing platform along the road in the middle of nowhere! And what a view!

​

The rain stopped and a few bright spots behind the clouds suggested optimism. I packed up and set off.

I had a few kms of a downhill to complete and then, according to Abuela, a long, tough climb to get to Buesaco, the next town along. She used her hand to indicate the steepness. Very animated! It wasn't far - 20km- which gave me the option of continuing on to the next small village although accommodation there was an unknown quantity.

A patch of blue!!!!

​

Like yesterday, landslides, or the remains of them, made the road interesting. As did the subsidence. Passing through a little settlement I stopped to photograph the street art. Asking three men having a chat where a church featured in a mural was one if them walked me back up the road to the correct street. When I returned to the bike I joked about the ad not matching the reality and we all had a laugh.

Not the greatest photo ever taken but it does demonstarate the sheer variety of the vegetation that is filling my world near and far and those electric wires demonstrate the angle of the mountain!

​

I rolled on down. There's a character to the landscape that took me a while to put my finger on. It seemed very wild. Rugged definitely, but wild in the sense of being alive and unpredictable. I had the sense that it was just sleeping and that what I saw just happened to be the "resting pose". It wouldn't have surprised me if the country started to move and rearrange itself. That kind of wild. I was captivated.

That's where I'm going! The views are starting to open up

A few ramschakle homes perched on the edge of the hillside. And a broken down van pushing traffic on my side of the road into the other lane.... on a bend!

A day that starts of with a descent is a pretty good day. Look at all that vegetation!

A village spread along the edge of the road and the mountain. Too small and insignificant to feature on any maps

This! This is one of my favourite photographs of all time! I was stopped a tad awestruck at the immense scale all around me in almost silence, only the wind and the odd bird when I noticed the brownish mountain in front and what appeared to be a road about four fifths of the way up. Completely lacking a sense of direction I looked up Osmand and confirmed that I'd be taking that road. Something has changed in me because the time was such an undertaking would have me crying. Today? I think I could have strapped on some feathers and flown up!

​

One scene in particular, showed the wildness with a relatively tiny cultivated area and for some reason it highlighted the difficulty of trying to tame the land. Wild.

If you look left of the river some cultivated areas can be made out on the hillsides, some with ridiculous slopes. I spent a long time trying to imagine just how hard it is to work that land. Then, to the right of the river are three trees on a gentle slope that just have to have a story. They captivated me and were companions as I wandered along the road. Then there's the impact of that little río. So much in one little photo

​

To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever! Part Two

Even the weather started to cooperate as I approached the bottom

​

I parked the bike and spent long minutes walking the road soaking the views up. Despite the fact that I was on a road and could see other roads in the distance as well as houses and occasional expanses of polythene there was so little traffic that I found it easy to convince myself that had this country all to myself. A glorious feeling and one that tickles my explorer itch. It was special.

I could not get enough of this scene. It seemed like whenever I looked again I saw something I had missed before.

​

Not long later the epic landscape laid on a special treat for me. Up ahead I could see a mountain standing out from the others and four firths of the way up that mountain was my road! It was a long, long way away and seemed so high ....... A wonderful, exciting sight!

That brownish mountain dead centre was going to be the highpoint (in every sense of the words) today

​

I still had a bit to go before I hit that climb and the scenery was just stunning as I weaved along a river valley. So many greens!

A little bit closer to the mysterious trees.....

Even without the views the road was interesting with its own cliffs and vegetation

Here the road is about to enter a tunnel of trees. And I have this all to myself!

Up close I really started to feel that these weren't inanimate mountains but still, slumbering giants. I wouldn't have been surprised if they started to move.......

As well as the epic, grand scale vistas there were interesting things on a much smaller scale. Here, colourful, vibrant plants growing out of bare rock

The road ahead..... I'll be going under that white building then later under that big boulder at the top!

The río Juanambu which created this valley and would be my travel companion for a while

​

To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever! Part Three

At about 10:30 I came to an impressive bridge spanning a noisy río. From here on it was all up. On the far side of the bridge was a shrine to the Virgin Mary and more plaques giving thanks for favours received.

The bridge..... and my road way, way up there! Ordinarily, I'd pish my pants ...... but not today!

The grotto on the far side of the bridge

​

The gradient was surprisingly gentle and I surprised myself at the progress that I made. I was stopping for views, not rests. And the views were pretty darn impressive. For a substantial distance my road looped back above me, too steep to see properly. On a quiet road with lots of places to stop and no shortage of reasons to stop I was in my element.

Looking across the valley

Looking back and across after gaining some altitude. I felt great and stopped often. This was special country and I didn want to forget a thing

You can see my road above and to the left. There was practically no traffic so I had this all to myself

Looking back..... Always look back!

A Panoramic shot!

The all-conquering Roccado!

​

It's always very satisfying for me to look back and down on the road I've travelled to get to where I am. Today, though, I had an extra gift - I got to look down at the speck of a bridge that was so impressive at ground level. That was a thrill! Little did I know that the Touring Gods weren't finished with me yet!

I thought the bridge was impressive the first time I saw it. But from up here? Something I don't think I will ever forget!

If the scale wasn't enough to impress me the colours were amazing too!

​

To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever! Part Four


A little later I had the wonderful view of the río and two levels of my road contrasted against an amazing, wild, vivid landscape. And still the Gods weren't finished with me!

My road! All mine!

I stopped on a bend for a bite to eat and to soak up the view. More of that peanut butter bar bought for me and an orange against an amazing backdrop and I chatted to two workmen tasked with clearing little rockfalls from the road. They had brushes and shovels and a motorbike.

Today's entertainment brought to you by Melkocha!

​

Then off up again. I changed direction (what I now realise was following the curve of the mountain) and there off to my left, way, way off and way, way down was the road I was on when I first saw this mountain standing out. My heart soared. There's no other word for it. It was so exciting to look back at what seemed like a mammoth distance and a dizzying elevation difference and realise that I'd done it all on my trusty bike. I've had similar experiences before, looking back from on high but never like this. For one thing, I had seen the high road long, long before I climbed it. For another the sorrounding country was just stunning.

One of the most satisfying moments on my bike.

What an amazing place!

​

I kept climbing and kept looking over, always rising higher compared to the río. Then, as I followed the curve of the mountain my view slowly changed again. I was now looking at the other side of a steep valley - and it was steep! I was on the right hand side and very glad because the left hand side had a sheer drop of a couple of hundred meters and often not much more than a kerb to ward off traffic.

Gradually vegetation took over and houses so the view became less and less. It didn't matter. After earlier only the most amazing sights would have made an impression. Near Buesaco but still with meters to climb it started to rain. Spying a large, polythene covered frame beside a house I pulled in. There was no-one to ask permission of so I waited out the rain by having a picnic and reading my book.

Way off in the distance on the left is the road I travelled in on, where I first saw the mountain (and the road) I was now on. There are brown "splashes" where landslides passed over the road and down. This was such a moment of intense satisfaction

​

I met fewer people today but still received lots of encouragement. A man and presumably his son slowed down to pass me and both waved enthusiastically. Stopped, a little fella was walking down the road with a little puppy. He was happy to say hello to me but became antsy when the puppy started playing with my leg. Picking up the puppy as only a small person can - akwardly - I was amused to see the resignation in the puppy's eyes.


I set off again in the dry, climbed the last bit into town and went looking for a hotel. I found one without crazy steep stairs, checked in and had a cold, mountain cold, shower. Then out to explore. In rain!


I could have continued on to the next village - in truth the town doesn't look particularly interesting - but no. My experience today was special. It deserves the chance to sink into my consciousness so that I'll always have it.


Colombia. She did it again!

One of the last "open" views. You can already see that the landscape was changing with vegetation increasing

​

Post Script
Without having had a look at any photos for 9 months plus and not being able to read my notes I can affirm that the taking of a short day to let the memories bed in worked. This day is seared in my memory.

Another thing that strikes me now months and months later. With no real plan or schedule I could well have pushed on through yesterday and not given this stretch a day to itself. I had no idea what was waiting for me. In a rush I can't imagine that it would have been as special as it was. Without too much of a deadline I can really let the special days be slow days.

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... The Towns Along the Way

It might be small and not appear on any map but they do make an effort at making an impression

This mural inspired me to ask some friendly locals for directions to the church......

I got my own personal escort to the right street but.....​

The church didn't quite live up to its billing!

I suppose higgeldy piggeldy would be appropriate......

Higgeldy Piggeldy it may be but this is the view.......

​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/