Team BKool CycleChat
- Thread starter Peteaud
- Start date
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bob01
Regular
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Thanks, good to know.
burndust
Parts unknown...baby
Aye suppose it is a tad loudAnnoyed, two thirds of the way through the UK League Tour of Britain stage 2, the unit stopped changing resistance. It was still registering speed, power and heart rate so the Ant connection is working. email sent to bkool and another one going to Wiggle later.
It still makes the start up buzzing noise it always has, only for much longer. It's 11 months old (so should get it sorted).
I'll leave it overnight and try a ride in the morning.
It still makes the start up buzzing noise it always has, only for much longer. It's 11 months old (so should get it sorted).
I'll leave it overnight and try a ride in the morning.
I finally got the pro model delivered and got it up and running today. It's harder than I expected. I ordered the trainer and heart rate monitor, was surprised to see no cadence sensor. Is that right?
Did about 30 minutes on my first couple of runs, my legs feel tired as I've not ridden for a while so may feel it tomorrow.
To get the trainer to connect had to do it manually, though could not get the heart rate monitor to connect at all. No instructions, any ideas? Your help will be appreciated.
Did about 30 minutes on my first couple of runs, my legs feel tired as I've not ridden for a while so may feel it tomorrow.
To get the trainer to connect had to do it manually, though could not get the heart rate monitor to connect at all. No instructions, any ideas? Your help will be appreciated.
theedge
Active Member
Shame , I did a good ride into the hills last weekend and want to upload this..
PhotoBiker
Regular
- Location
- South Berwick, Maine (US)
The Pro model claims to have a cadence sensor built in. When I asked the rep how they could possibly determine cadence from wheel speed without knowing gear selection/ratios, he gave me the "ask the engineers" answer (I'm an engineer...). I also asked if the software could integrate with an actual Cadence sensor and he told me it couldn't with the pro. I'd like to find out otherwise on that one.
jiberjaber
Veteran
- Location
- Essex
That's correct, when mine turned up, I didn't check initially as the bike I put on the turbo had a cadence sensor already on it, a day or so later, I thought, hmmm... don't remember seeing one in the box. So looked on the website and it doesn't come with one. Also, there isn't a USB port for trainer upgrades, so no idea how that might work in the future.
Pairing was also a trouble for me to, I eventually got it to work in manual mode, I think it was a particular way of standing on one foot coupled with the sequence of how things were powered up!
(I.e. there seemed no sense from how I got it working, it just eventually started working).
Paulf1566
Senior Member
- Location
- Menston, Ilkley
Anyone got any tips for matching the video to a gps file? I get a message saying they are different lengths but both the video and gps file recording are both started and stopped simultaneously.
I then also tried to plot a manual gps route but moving the camera icon to synchronise the two files did not seem to help.
Bloomin' annoying for something that should be straight forward.
I then also tried to plot a manual gps route but moving the camera icon to synchronise the two files did not seem to help.
Bloomin' annoying for something that should be straight forward.
jiberjaber
Veteran
- Location
- Essex
For mine (which hasn't turned up on there yet) I did the following.
Joined all my footage together (GoPro) edited and processed it out to be below 2.5GB in total using Power Director (you can use what ever video editor you have for this).
For the GPS I used a mixture of hand editing the data and then reloading it in to Strava as a private route to check I had the start and end in the places I wanted plus any other edits I needed.
So from my Garmin Connect screen looking at the activity I want to use, I selected the little cog settings menu when viewing the activity and exported the activity to a GPX file (you can do similar in Strava of course).
I opened the GPX in Notepad++ (http://notepad-plus-plus.org/) You can set the 'Language' in Notepad++ to XML and it will help with finding the parts of the file to edit.
I then looked at the start of the video and used the following website to put a marker where I think the vid started http://itouchmap.com/latlong.html
The GPX file has a particular format, if you have used the Lap button on your GPS device (if it has one) then you will have a bunch of stuff starting with <Lap> and ending with </Lap> you will have a <Lap></Lap> for each time the button was pressed. With a bit of forward planning you could then create a lap for the start and then at the end of the video section and it would make editing easier.
If you didn't press the button, you will have just one of these 'Laps' in the GPX.
Inside the <Lap></Lap> you will have a <Track> and within that you will have a load of <TrackPoint>'s. The TrackPoint contains the position plus other info like speed, temperature, heart rate etc. eg:
<Track>
<Trackpoint>
<Time>2014-10-10T08:56:25.000Z</Time>
<Position>
<LatitudeDegrees>51.72667946666479</LatitudeDegrees>
<LongitudeDegrees>0.41273513808846474</LongitudeDegrees>
</Position>
<AltitudeMeters>55.599998474121094</AltitudeMeters>
<DistanceMeters>5907.509765625</DistanceMeters>
<HeartRateBpm>
<Value>131</Value>
</HeartRateBpm>
<Cadence>88</Cadence>
<Extensions>
<TPX xmlns="http://www.garmin.com/xmlschemas/ActivityExtension/v2">
<Speed>5.756999969482422</Speed>
</TPX>
</Extensions>
</Trackpoint>
Then looking at the GPX file in Notepad++ I picked out the first Lat/Long, in the snippet of GPX above, that would be the:
<LatitudeDegrees>51.72667946666479</LatitudeDegrees>
<LongitudeDegrees>0.41273513808846474</LongitudeDegrees>
I then pasted the numbers in to the "Show Point" boxes for Lat/Long and compared that with the point I placed on the map. Repeat, moving through the lat/log in the GPX till I got a reasonably close place.
If it was from the front of the vid, I would then delete the points before that location in the file back to the <Track> line (but not the <Track> line of course!).
I would then use the <Time> info and paste that in to the <ID></ID> bit so the activity looks like a new one to Strava and then manually add it to Strava to check the start and end are in where I want them. Once you are happy - don't forget to
It takes a little while, but its not a case of do each point in turn, but a case of jump forward 30 points and try that to see if its close then fine tune from there.... hope that all makes sense
In terms of length, I would check you weren't stopped for too long with no auto-pause, if you were, then you can sort of find the location using the above and then snip the trackpoints out of the file to shorten the GPS data.
Joined all my footage together (GoPro) edited and processed it out to be below 2.5GB in total using Power Director (you can use what ever video editor you have for this).
For the GPS I used a mixture of hand editing the data and then reloading it in to Strava as a private route to check I had the start and end in the places I wanted plus any other edits I needed.
So from my Garmin Connect screen looking at the activity I want to use, I selected the little cog settings menu when viewing the activity and exported the activity to a GPX file (you can do similar in Strava of course).
I opened the GPX in Notepad++ (http://notepad-plus-plus.org/) You can set the 'Language' in Notepad++ to XML and it will help with finding the parts of the file to edit.
I then looked at the start of the video and used the following website to put a marker where I think the vid started http://itouchmap.com/latlong.html
The GPX file has a particular format, if you have used the Lap button on your GPS device (if it has one) then you will have a bunch of stuff starting with <Lap> and ending with </Lap> you will have a <Lap></Lap> for each time the button was pressed. With a bit of forward planning you could then create a lap for the start and then at the end of the video section and it would make editing easier.
If you didn't press the button, you will have just one of these 'Laps' in the GPX.
Inside the <Lap></Lap> you will have a <Track> and within that you will have a load of <TrackPoint>'s. The TrackPoint contains the position plus other info like speed, temperature, heart rate etc. eg:
<Track>
<Trackpoint>
<Time>2014-10-10T08:56:25.000Z</Time>
<Position>
<LatitudeDegrees>51.72667946666479</LatitudeDegrees>
<LongitudeDegrees>0.41273513808846474</LongitudeDegrees>
</Position>
<AltitudeMeters>55.599998474121094</AltitudeMeters>
<DistanceMeters>5907.509765625</DistanceMeters>
<HeartRateBpm>
<Value>131</Value>
</HeartRateBpm>
<Cadence>88</Cadence>
<Extensions>
<TPX xmlns="http://www.garmin.com/xmlschemas/ActivityExtension/v2">
<Speed>5.756999969482422</Speed>
</TPX>
</Extensions>
</Trackpoint>
Then looking at the GPX file in Notepad++ I picked out the first Lat/Long, in the snippet of GPX above, that would be the:
<LatitudeDegrees>51.72667946666479</LatitudeDegrees>
<LongitudeDegrees>0.41273513808846474</LongitudeDegrees>
I then pasted the numbers in to the "Show Point" boxes for Lat/Long and compared that with the point I placed on the map. Repeat, moving through the lat/log in the GPX till I got a reasonably close place.
If it was from the front of the vid, I would then delete the points before that location in the file back to the <Track> line (but not the <Track> line of course!).
I would then use the <Time> info and paste that in to the <ID></ID> bit so the activity looks like a new one to Strava and then manually add it to Strava to check the start and end are in where I want them. Once you are happy - don't forget to
It takes a little while, but its not a case of do each point in turn, but a case of jump forward 30 points and try that to see if its close then fine tune from there.... hope that all makes sense
In terms of length, I would check you weren't stopped for too long with no auto-pause, if you were, then you can sort of find the location using the above and then snip the trackpoints out of the file to shorten the GPS data.
From post #844 upthread:
"Regarding GPS files and matching them to a video: I use a Garmin 500. I've had a problem with the GPS signal showing me up to 100 yards off course to the side of the road. This, in turn, gives false altitude data as the land at the side of the road is rarely the same height as the road itself. Bkool suggest dragging the points back onto the road on the map on the video upload software, but there are hundreds of them. It's fiddly and would take hours.
What I've tried instead is to draw the route on mapping software, save it as a gpx file and match that with the video. The problem is that most mapping software assumes a much higher travelling speed than I'm actually doing, so the gpx file time is much shorter than the video time. I fix this by using BikeHike, because it allows me to set an average speed when saving the gpx file. With a bit of trial and error, I can find the speed that makes the two files run for the same length of time".
I found that moving the camera icon to synchronize the files sometimes introduces an error that wasn't there before, so now I synch as little as possible.
