Team BKool CycleChat

[Daddy Pig]

Tv for a 3yold! You should be doing a puppet show with finger puppets

Yeah thats right I could. Id probably be sweeping the kitchen floor with brush jammed somewhere as well!

 

[Whorty]

I think I'm cheating myself I weigh more in Zwift and Bkool than in real life, albeit a pound or two

Can't be arsed with altering my status weekly. It doesn't make a huge difference to my results

We don't have this bitchyness in splitters forum

Carl you're welcome to seek refuge for a week or two, yesterdays newspaper

Be over in a bit

 

[Whorty]

You can always google. I had to google schtum, Magnolia and spectrum

Sorry. They quit selling Mars Bars over here.

Any chocolate based confectionary will do fine

 

[AAAC 76C]

I have just received the stats for my ftp yesterday and HR says it all:

your peak 5 second heart rate was 193 BPM

- your peak 10 second heart rate was 180 BPM

- your peak 1 minute heart rate was 179 BPM

- your peak 5 minute heart rate was 177 BPM

- your peak 10 minute heart rate was 176 BPM

- your peak 20 minute heart rate was 174 BPM

PREVIOUS PEAK WAS 184!

Your heart is obviously getting weaker and needs to beat more to keep up.
Either that or you were slacking last time!

 

[AAAC 76C]

As for a fix. As I've said for two days, if anyone wants to use this with Bkool as an example of the bug/cheat then feel free. I did it as a test NOT to gain time on the SC and now we can prove it's an easy cheat we should get them to fix it. I would have thought putting in an extra system test, something like testing if speed and /or watts stay flat for 10 seconds (5 seconds too short?) then the ride should be blocked.

The feature is a built in fail safe.
It is not really to do with electrical power loss more Trainer/BSim signal loss.
In the early days of BKool if you lost your ANT connection your ride just timed out.
They therefore built in this feature to allow for short signal losses.
When they first wrote the code they must have got the timing wrong as it would go on for two minutes.
According to Bridgy's test it is now about 30 seconds which is probably still to long.
The nett result is that someone with a genuine intermittent power or signal loss will get this flat line for the duration of the signal/power loss so long as it is not greater than 20/30 seconds.
One of the areas of the Turbo that is prone to generating power losses is the AC/DC adaptor jack into the turbo or the socket connection to the PCB.

In summary the feature is there to help us but can be used, as many 'safety features' can be used to generate an advantage.

How did I find out, I did not plug my jack in properly after messing with my bike/turbo and it pulled out whilst sprinting in a Velodrome session and boy did I motor.

Always wanting to find things out I messed with using my remote to see what happened and discovered these flats in power and speed however Cadence and HR, being independent, carried on registering.

I have done loads of stuff looking at things like this, like the old Pro-Sling because it just interests me in a technical way.

 

[AAAC 76C]

I think I'll be in the dog house a bit later when Mrs GW gets back home.

I've been away for a couple of days helping my son move house with no internet access.

Logged on this morning to catch up, and my goodness Whorty you have certainly stirred things and livened the forum up. Monday's to do list has taken a back seat, and I don't think me telling Mrs GW that Whorty has admitted to cheating is going to cut any ice as an excuse.

This can happen with a dodgy turbo as I had the same symptoms when my turbo lost power intermittantly during rides. It was only when my speed started to drop to zero that I realised that I had lost power to the turbo - I never noticed the power boost, but then I never really know what's going on. Each time it happened I had to get off and poke a cocktail stick down the reset hole - so any power gains were well and truly nullified. Seeing me reaching for the kitchen steps to get off and back on is not a pretty sight, and is quite a lengthy experience.

Anyway I stripped my turbo down a re-soldered the power connections to the logic board, and also tightened a loose earth connection to the stepping motor, and touch wood I haven't had any reoccurences over the last month - touch wood.

Anyway Shorty if you need a ghost to follow to repent on the SC10, pick mine as it will push you back several pages on the overall rankings, as I believe there are some of those hilly bits and I ain't too good on them.

Just wot I said

 

[AAAC 76C]

PS Whorty, this site was getting a bit boring at the weekend and you have spiced it up no end.
A bit of a PR blinder if you don't mind me saying.
I'll have to find something else you can try this week like fitting twice as many magnets to your flywheel to double your speed.
I did actually try that one but, doh, it obviously increases you resistance as well, only advantage was it was like having a much bigger back wheel with circumference twice that of the one fitted, if that is an adavantage.
The other one I tried was welding some more cranks on opposite the ones already fitted so you could twice as many pedal strokes in per rev but the constant clipping and un-clipping was a pain and I could work out how to fit another set of legs.
I also tried letting my tyre down to slow me down and that actually worked but is not a very good cheat.
The only thing I am owrking on now is a tandem but HID is not keen on the idea.

 

[Whorty]

PS Whorty, this site was getting a bit boring at the weekend and you have spiced it up no end.
A bit of a PR blinder if you don't mind me saying.
I'll have to find something else you can try this week like fitting twice as many magnets to your flywheel to double your speed.
I did actually try that one but, doh, it obviously increases you resistance as well, only advantage was it was like having a much bigger back wheel with circumference twice that of the one fitted, if that is an adavantage.
The other one I tried was welding some more cranks on opposite the ones already fitted so you could twice as many pedal strokes in per rev but the constant clipping and un-clipping was a pain and I could work out how to fit another set of legs.
I also tried letting my tyre down to slow me down and that actually worked but is not a very good cheat.
The only thing I am owrking on now is a tandem but HID is not keen on the idea.

You forgot the obvious .... eBike

 

[Daddy Pig]

PS Whorty, this site was getting a bit boring at the weekend and you have spiced it up no end.
A bit of a PR blinder if you don't mind me saying.
I'll have to find something else you can try this week like fitting twice as many magnets to your flywheel to double your speed.
I did actually try that one but, doh, it obviously increases you resistance as well, only advantage was it was like having a much bigger back wheel with circumference twice that of the one fitted, if that is an adavantage.
The other one I tried was welding some more cranks on opposite the ones already fitted so you could twice as many pedal strokes in per rev but the constant clipping and un-clipping was a pain and I could work out how to fit another set of legs.
I also tried letting my tyre down to slow me down and that actually worked but is not a very good cheat.
The only thing I am owrking on now is a tandem but HID is not keen on the idea.

Have you tried attaching a drill to the bkool axle? 1500 watts of uphill loveliness....

 

[theboxers]

Have you tried attaching a drill to the bkool axle? 1500 watts of uphill loveliness....

So thats how the elite trainers do it

 

[Daddy Pig]

I reckon @LBHIFI should have kept his broken trainer from last year and used that on the SC! Just the odd stage here and there at 60,000 watts give or take...

 

[AAAC 76C]

Have you tried attaching a drill to the bkool axle? 1500 watts of uphill loveliness....

Yep but you need to put a freewheel on your drill other wise when it stops it undoes the nut.

And if you don't do it back up tight enough the next time you apply your brakes before the start of a session your flywheel doesn't slow down and undoes the nut again and then you find yourself being overtaken by your flywheel (not good).

It works uphill but not on the flat unless you can find an attachment that increases the drill output speed.
I thought I had one but it turned out to be and old car valve grinding attachment that turned rotation into oscillation.

Why did I try this:
I thought it would be a cool idea to test your BKool power readings, i.e drive it with a constant power on a session that stepped up in ascent every 200m by 0.5 degree and see if you get a flat power output (a kind of almost pointless calibration run)

Unfortunately the drill could not rotate quickly enough at the lower gradients to load the drill fully.
I tried my fixie and rigged up the brakes to be partially on to load the drill but the turbo just slipped on the wheel because I was holding the drill and not sitting on the bike.
I tried sitting on the bike and then I couldn't reach the drill.
Got HID to sit on he bike and the drill couldn't turn the wheel.
I told her the battery had run out.
It hadn't

You could use an E-Bike as a form of power reading consistency test but by the time you bought that you may have well bought a decent Turbo and buggered of to Zwift with all the other Lawyers and Bankers.

You could also cheat and put your e-bike on the turbo with a sack of spuds on the saddle and then set up your running machine next to it to get you HR going.
I have got a running machine but no e-bike and I still can't find my HRH band that the blimming cats stole.

 

[AAAC 76C]

I reckon @LBHIFI should have kept his broken trainer from last year and used that on the SC! Just the odd stage here and there at 60,000 watts give or take...

That would be cheating.
Crap, I don't believe I said that!

 

[Whorty]

Have you tried attaching a drill to the bkool axle? 1500 watts of uphill loveliness....

Stop giving me ideas ... you know I'll try it to see if it works

 

[AAAC 76C]

So thats how the elite trainers do it

They don't need to.
If you look at their cadence I reckon that BSim is doubling their speed which is giving them an exponential amount of watts.
So these guys aren't really cheating it's just that their Turbo's don't work on BSim properly.
Then again I could be wrong, and I often am according to HID.