Team BKool CycleChat

[Soarerv8]

Hmm didn't think of that might on that basis go out and have a Bkool powered pedal on my loney mcloneface now

Had quite a good if lonely ride on Bkool, the main reason I had moved to Zwift was that I was getting really bad connection problems to Bkool but they were not there tonight so lo and behold if I pedalled harder I went quicker. On that basis if it keeps working I think I will use bkool for races and z-word for ambling around.

 

[bobinski]

Soarerv8
Corrected that for you

On that basis if it keeps working I think I will use bkool for ambling races and z-word for ambling around.

 

[gbrown]

Geoff Ive just read that syncro-shift has become available for Di2 6870, I will try and update my bikes firmware for a test today.

Ha, guess what I was doing this morning? Fitting the new di2 battery that arrived this morning from Wiggle into the seat post of my bike. Then setup Synchro Shift and tested it out. All seems to work fine, just a few glitches customizing the gear changes and controlling from the Garmin 1000, which I guess they'll fix in firmware updates.

Only needs the new battery (Shimano BT-DN110) but if you want to program from a smart phone you need a bluetooth/ANT+ wireless unit (EW-WU111 or EW-WU101). I already had a EWW01 (ANT+ only) and I'm happy to hook up to an old laptop occasionally so no need to spend the extra for the bluetooth.

Just needed the new battery for the extra brains to do the Synchro Shift. Also needed the new firmware released this week for the FD-9070 front Derailleur and RD-6870-GS rear. Also a new firmware update for the Garmin 1000 to show the shift mode and supposedly to allow it to be changed from the Garmin (but that bit doesn't work at the moment).

The key to getting it working is that to change the mode from manual, you have to double click (fast) the little button on the EW90-A junction box (the little box by your stem where you plug in the charger). Each time you double click the little button, it rotates through manual -> semi synchro -> full synchro.

If you still want to control when the front is changed, the semi mode just reverses the rear 1, 2 or 3 gears (2 is default) to compensate, something I tended to do manually.

Otherwise the full mode changes the front for you as you go across the cassette, and at the same time reverse the rear to select the next gear ratio in sequence.

You can customize this to suit, but there is a little bug stopping me from changing the drop off the big ring to start earlier than the second biggest cog on the gear, which is a shame. At the moment I've customized it to reduce the number of changes of the front slightly, still avoid 50T-32T, and only use the 11-13T with the big ring, You can still change the front manually if you want to.

Testing it out in the garage it is amazingly seemless. I'll try it out on Monday, when the weather looks nice enough for another lunch time ride. I know it's lazy but the idea of having 14 or 15 straight gears appeals!

Geoff

 

[gbrown]

Could be. They came out last year. You'll know when you try and link with phone or not

It won't link to a phone without one of the new wireless units (EW-WU101 or EW-WU111) which have only been available for a few weeks. They are about £64. Without one of these you have to use the e-tube software on a PC.

 

[gbrown]

thanks for that Andy ive just installed e tube to my phone and laptop ill have a play with it tomorrow if I get time not sure if the battery has BT its the 1 in seatpost

Both the old BTR2 battery and new BT-DN110 battery fit in the seat post.

Hook up your PC to the di2 with the BCR2 charger, and run a connection check. unless your battery shows as the latest BT-DN110 then the Synchro Shift won't work (I tried it yesterday with my BTR2 battery, and although it all programmed it just didn't work).

I bought a new battery from Wiggle last night (price matched) and it arrived this morning. Swapping over was really easy, and then it all worked. Not sure it was worth the cost of the battery, but got to love the tech...

Don't need bluetooth, as you only program it once or twice a year, so no need to buy wireless unit unless you want to see your gear information on a Garmin! I no it's not hard-core, but I like to see what gears I'm in without looking down and trying to see where the chain is!

P.S. Anyone want to buy a lightly used internal di2 BTR2 battery?

Geoff

 

[AAAC 76C]

Ha, guess what I was doing this morning? Fitting the new di2 battery that arrived this morning from Wiggle into the seat post of my bike. Then setup Synchro Shift and tested it out. All seems to work fine, just a few glitches customizing the gear changes and controlling from the Garmin 1000, which I guess they'll fix in firmware updates.

Only needs the new battery (Shimano BT-DN110) but if you want to program from a smart phone you need a bluetooth/ANT+ wireless unit (EW-WU111 or EW-WU101). I already had a EWW01 (ANT+ only) and I'm happy to hook up to an old laptop occasionally so no need to spend the extra for the bluetooth.

Just needed the new battery for the extra brains to do the Synchro Shift. Also needed the new firmware released this week for the FD-9070 front Derailleur and RD-6870-GS rear. Also a new firmware update for the Garmin 1000 to show the shift mode and supposedly to allow it to be changed from the Garmin (but that bit doesn't work at the moment).

The key to getting it working is that to change the mode from manual, you have to double click (fast) the little button on the EW90-A junction box (the little box by your stem where you plug in the charger). Each time you double click the little button, it rotates through manual -> semi synchro -> full synchro.

If you still want to control when the front is changed, the semi mode just reverses the rear 1, 2 or 3 gears (2 is default) to compensate, something I tended to do manually.

Otherwise the full mode changes the front for you as you go across the cassette, and at the same time reverse the rear to select the next gear ratio in sequence. You can customize this to suit, but there is a little bug stopping me from changing the drop off the big ring to start earlier than the second biggest cog on the gear, which is a shame. At the moment I've customized it to reduce the number of changes of the front slightly, but avoid big-big, and only use the 11-13T with the big ring, You can still change the front manually if you want to.

Testing it out in the garage it is amazingly seemless. I'll try it out on Monday, when the weather looks nice enough for another lunch time ride. I know it's lazy but the idea of having 14 or 15 straight gears appeals!

View attachment 341980

Geoff

Battery in the seatpost for the motor no doubt!

 

[gbrown]

Battery in the seatpost for the motor no doubt!

I wish!

I'm not even fit enough to change gears manually, pedaling is asking a lot...

Still, finally back below 21% body fat today so making some progress!

 

[AAAC 76C]

I wish!

I'm not even fit enough to change gears manually, pedaling is asking a lot...

Fair one!

 

[AAAC 76C]

I was very surprised the way that race went, mostly because Bridgy was quite a bit stronger than me on Thursday but tonight we pulled away from him fast at the start. My power reading was a good 40 watts higher tonight for some reason and this was apparent during the warmup as well as the race. My plan was to just stay on your tail as long as possible and I only expected that to last until we got to the big hill at the most, not that I'd have stayed with you after any of those hills if you hadn't waited.

I waited because I didn't fancy the slog on my own, today was feking hard work with my heart not playing the game like it did.

 

[Soarerv8]

Soarerv8
Corrected that for you

A true friend

 

[bobinski]

A true friend

 

[AAAC 76C]

Friends!

 

[Whorty]

Friends!

 

[Soarerv8]

Friends!

This sort of response will only ultimately lead to me jumping up and down on the bonnet of Bob's car.

 

[rob01792]

winter cup updated