Sweating tubeless

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pb63

Guru
Location
Beford
Evening all, after a bit of advice. Last summer I got tubeless wheels on my summer bike and have had no problems with them. Over the winter, I've been regularly spinning the wheels and topping up pressures. I've just started to use the bike again and will be topping up the sealant with Stan's but I noticed that there's a few patches of oilyness seaping through the tyre. Is this normal? Should I clean out the old sealant before adding new or just top up and hope that goes away? Also I assume 20-30ml per tyre should do it? Wheels are slr1 hookless shod in schwalbe pro 1s if that makes any difference. Thanks all,
 
If your wheels are stored outside and subject to cold temps then it’s likely that the sealant is now quite useless. After each winter (my bikes are cold stored) i swap out the Stans as it turns to a clear, thin liquid (oily looking) and it doesn’t work as it should. I use a milkit syringe and draw out the old stuff and top up with new Stans.

30ml seems to be enough for 25-28mm tyres.
 
I dont know about Schwalbe Pro's but my specialized Fast traks sweat stans like they are completely porous even after a fresh top up, dosn't happen with my vittorias or bontrangers. I think 6 months is the longest you can leave sealant in.
 
OP
OP
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pb63

Guru
Location
Beford
If your wheels are stored outside and subject to cold temps then it’s likely that the sealant is now quite useless. After each winter (my bikes are cold stored) i swap out the Stans as it turns to a clear, thin liquid (oily looking) and it doesn’t work as it should. I use a milkit syringe and draw out the old stuff and top up with new Stans.

30ml seems to be enough for 25-28mm tyres.

I like the sound of syringing it out with little mess.

Would something like this work does anyone know or am I best going for a milkit?;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RISK-MTB...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
 

livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
I found this sweating issue with Schwalbe Pro One and it wasn't necessarily linked to winter. I was advised by the manufacturwr that this was completely normal.

FWIW i found this with muc off sealant.

I have since abandoned the Schwalbes and muc off sealant as the former is a summer tyre, and latter sealant I found isn't up to scratch for anything bigger than a pin hole puncture.
 

livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
I like the sound of syringing it out with little mess.

Would something like this work does anyone know or am I best going for a milkit?;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RISK-MTB...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Check which Stans sealant you're using. The 'race' sealant has larger crystals in the formula, and says it is not suitable for use in a syringe or to be shot down the valve, and it must be inserted directly into the tyre when the bead is partially off the rim.
 

livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
20211221_112010.jpg

Assume your sweating looks something like this? I found in particular that ridge where the sidewall meets the actual tread was where several small openings were found.

After a few days of spinning the wheels, and resting on each side to allow the sealant to reach the sidewalls more easily, the tyres then retained pressure as well as tubes.
 

livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
Yes identical to that. Will give the wheels a good spin and shake when I swap out sealants.
I found this technique most effective (assuming the rest of the wheel build has retained it's integrity).

1. Fit tyre and valve
2. With the valve core removed, and valve at 4 o'clock position, use syringe to inject sealant. Replace and close valve core.
3. Roll the tyre whilst flat, for twoo full rotations against the floor. Put a small amount of pressure on it but not enough that the rim and tyre could damage one another.
4. Spin the wheel in the air, holding the axle. Do this in a normal upright, and then flat like a pizza motion on both sides.
5. Leave to rest on top of a bucket/empty open box, on it's side for an hour or so. Then turn over and again leave for a while.
6. Inflate as required.
7. Sometimes i'll leave it inflated on it's side and turn if it seems a little leaky.
 

geocycle

Legendary Member
My Schwalbe pro ones sweated through the side wall. Schwalbe suggested it was normal… they also suggested 50ml per tyre which surprised me.
637677
 

fraz101

Senior Member
I’ve just bought a used bike that has tubeless Gavia AC1s fitted. When I viewed the bike the tyres were slightly soft, the chap had used different wheels and tyres and put the originals back on for the sale.

I blew them up on Sunday and are still ok tonight, rode 20mins last night and were fine.

I don’t know when the last time there was any sealant put into them and I don’t want stranded somewhere.

Can anyone advise what I should do? (I don’t know much about the system at all)

Its on a 2018 Defy advanced on pr2 wheels.

sorry if I’m thread hi jacking OP!
 
OP
OP
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pb63

Guru
Location
Beford
My Schwalbe pro ones sweated through the side wall. Schwalbe suggested it was normal… they also suggested 50ml per tyre which surprised me. View attachment 637677

Are they 25mm? I was going to go for 30ml per tyre and top up later in the summer, but if schwalbe are recommending more, I might just stick in another 10 to 20ml from the off
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
P

pb63

Guru
Location
Beford
I’ve just bought a used bike that has tubeless Gavia AC1s fitted. When I viewed the bike the tyres were slightly soft, the chap had used different wheels and tyres and put the originals back on for the sale.

I blew them up on Sunday and are still ok tonight, rode 20mins last night and were fine.

I don’t know when the last time there was any sealant put into them and I don’t want stranded somewhere.

Can anyone advise what I should do? (I don’t know much about the system at all)

Its on a 2018 Defy advanced on pr2 wheels.

sorry if I’m thread hi jacking OP!

No problems 👍

If it were me, as you're dealing with a bit of an unknown with regards to the condition of the sealant, I'd take the tyres off, remove old sealant and inspect topping up with fresh sealant. That way you know you're good for 3 to 4 months until you need to consider topping up again 👍
 
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