Nice - might be able to stretch to that although I'm determined not to let the budget creep up too much!
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Another inconsequential update.
After yesterday's ride I noticed the headset didn't feel quite right. In the absence of a correctly-sized spanner I'd tightened it up by hand using a bit of innertube for better grip but it still felt sloppy. Last night I unscrewed the whole upper assembly, cleaned the thick, sticky, dried grease from the threads, re-lubed with some thickish chain oil and reassembled. This time time I got some obvious engagement with the bearing race - I think previously the cap was hanging up on the mucky threads, so that's another little job done.
Afterwards I went out for another ride around town which really brought home how "imperfect" the saddle is. Thanks to my long legs it sits far too far forward, meaning the best I can manage is to have my sit-bones perched right on the rear of the seat. If I relax and overcome the obvious lack of contact I'm hanging off the back of the saddle and could conceivably push right over the edge..
I think the saddle could be reasonably comfortable in the right place, however this is a moot point since this isn't possible .By the time I got home (from probably 20ish miles cumulatively that day) my arse was so sore I was having to push right forward on the saddle to make the remainder of the journey bearable
Musing over the issue in bed I cast my mind to the butchered cheapo "Professional" bike sat out by the bins awaiting the next pikey trawl of the area.. this morning it was thankfully still there so I robbed the seatpost and saddle assy; which (just like the wheels and cassette) are compatible with the 25yr-older Raleigh
I ended up swapping the Professional saddle onto the Raleigh's seatpost; it's manky as fook but the separate clamp positions the saddle a little further back, and also accepts a more conventional twin-rail mount than the Raleigh's integral setup.. so will allow me to fit a wide range of alternative saddles should I so desire.
In addition to being a little further back the "new" saddle is fat, soft and sprung so should hopefully be a bit kinder to my back end! Hopefully it'll make the bike a bit less appealing to thieves too
Ideally this won't be a long term solution, but for now it's welcome if it makes the bike more comfortable / tolerable.. I'll hopefully get to test it out tomorrow
After yesterday's ride I noticed the headset didn't feel quite right. In the absence of a correctly-sized spanner I'd tightened it up by hand using a bit of innertube for better grip but it still felt sloppy. Last night I unscrewed the whole upper assembly, cleaned the thick, sticky, dried grease from the threads, re-lubed with some thickish chain oil and reassembled. This time time I got some obvious engagement with the bearing race - I think previously the cap was hanging up on the mucky threads, so that's another little job done.
Afterwards I went out for another ride around town which really brought home how "imperfect" the saddle is. Thanks to my long legs it sits far too far forward, meaning the best I can manage is to have my sit-bones perched right on the rear of the seat. If I relax and overcome the obvious lack of contact I'm hanging off the back of the saddle and could conceivably push right over the edge..
I think the saddle could be reasonably comfortable in the right place, however this is a moot point since this isn't possible .By the time I got home (from probably 20ish miles cumulatively that day) my arse was so sore I was having to push right forward on the saddle to make the remainder of the journey bearable
Musing over the issue in bed I cast my mind to the butchered cheapo "Professional" bike sat out by the bins awaiting the next pikey trawl of the area.. this morning it was thankfully still there so I robbed the seatpost and saddle assy; which (just like the wheels and cassette) are compatible with the 25yr-older Raleigh
I ended up swapping the Professional saddle onto the Raleigh's seatpost; it's manky as fook but the separate clamp positions the saddle a little further back, and also accepts a more conventional twin-rail mount than the Raleigh's integral setup.. so will allow me to fit a wide range of alternative saddles should I so desire.
In addition to being a little further back the "new" saddle is fat, soft and sprung so should hopefully be a bit kinder to my back end! Hopefully it'll make the bike a bit less appealing to thieves too
Ideally this won't be a long term solution, but for now it's welcome if it makes the bike more comfortable / tolerable.. I'll hopefully get to test it out tomorrow
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rogerzilla
Legendary Member
It's just like one of Lance Armstrong's TdF bikes!
(Last ridden by a drug abuser)
(Last ridden by a drug abuser)
Nigelnightmare
Über Member
Lance Armstrong did NOT abuse drugs.He did however USE them for the purpose they were intended, which was to help him go faster!
And it was under strict medical supervision.
I'm not condoning the use, just pointing out the fact that he didn't abuse them, (meaning using them for a different purpose than that which they are made/designed for).
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
If we're being charitable, he originally needed EPO to recover from the chemo and testosterone to make up for his shortage of bits, and just didn't stop.
Nigelnightmare
Über Member
Then he should never have been allowed to ride professionally whilst on those drugs.
I never said he didn't USE drugs, I just said he didn't ABUSE them, i.e.
(using them for a different purpose than that which they are designed/prescribed).
I don't agree with the use of PED's in sport and the excuses of some that it was "prescribed for an existing medical condition" is ridiculous.
If you have a medical condition/injury that needs medication, then you should not be allowed to compete whilst on that treatment.
End of, no if's, but's or maybe's.
So anyway, back on topic..
I've since done a few more miles on this bike and am impressed by the saddle which affords a noticeably softer ride over rough terrain and I was impressed to reach down and feel a good amount of displacement in the springs over the bumps. The downside is sometimes it forms part of a sprung-mass systems whose natural frequency coincides with my pedal strokes or the bumps in the road so can get quite bouncy..
Also I'm not sure how hot it would be on longer journeys; in this case possibly just swapping bruising for chafing. For a casual bike I really like the comfy, springy saddle though and if I feel the need to replace it at some point would probably go this way over something more sporty.
I keep having to rein in my desire to improve the bike further as the whole point is to keep it cheap and tatty-looking to avoid too much loss if it got nicked and de-incentivise this happening in the first place.
I am however vaguely considering tidying up the saddle - a mate suggested re-covering it and it appears that it could be stripped enough to allow this to happen. I reckon some thick vinyl and a heat gun could do the job... alternatively I might just lash it up with some gaffer tape.
Having learnt a bit more about parts compatability I'm really kicking myself for flogging my Giant now, since it appears its 8sp rear wheel would only have needed 6mm more axle spacing to have fitted (as opposed to the very optimistic 10mm of a 9sp+ setup) so chances are had I kept it, it could have made an excellent parts donor for this bike
I'm still torn on the novelty v. clunkyness of the gearing; and have found a few more perculiarities including its apparent disposition to creep off the 28t sprocket at the rear while climbing, as well as making some fairly pained noises when running 40/20t - it's constant and almost sounds like poor alignment although no amount of fettling the shifter will alleviate it and it has probably the most straight chainline at this setting (maybe that's the reason). I'm also aware this combination is exactly divisible (i.e. a 2:1 ratio) which I know is arguably bad for wear.. while also probably being the most likely used ratio.
I need to sling a new chain on it but am deliberating over where to source one and am a bit anxious that it might not play well with the older chainring and cassette; although they don't look obviously worn..
I've since done a few more miles on this bike and am impressed by the saddle which affords a noticeably softer ride over rough terrain and I was impressed to reach down and feel a good amount of displacement in the springs over the bumps. The downside is sometimes it forms part of a sprung-mass systems whose natural frequency coincides with my pedal strokes or the bumps in the road so can get quite bouncy..
Also I'm not sure how hot it would be on longer journeys; in this case possibly just swapping bruising for chafing. For a casual bike I really like the comfy, springy saddle though and if I feel the need to replace it at some point would probably go this way over something more sporty.
I keep having to rein in my desire to improve the bike further as the whole point is to keep it cheap and tatty-looking to avoid too much loss if it got nicked and de-incentivise this happening in the first place.
I am however vaguely considering tidying up the saddle - a mate suggested re-covering it and it appears that it could be stripped enough to allow this to happen. I reckon some thick vinyl and a heat gun could do the job... alternatively I might just lash it up with some gaffer tape.
Having learnt a bit more about parts compatability I'm really kicking myself for flogging my Giant now, since it appears its 8sp rear wheel would only have needed 6mm more axle spacing to have fitted (as opposed to the very optimistic 10mm of a 9sp+ setup) so chances are had I kept it, it could have made an excellent parts donor for this bike
I'm still torn on the novelty v. clunkyness of the gearing; and have found a few more perculiarities including its apparent disposition to creep off the 28t sprocket at the rear while climbing, as well as making some fairly pained noises when running 40/20t - it's constant and almost sounds like poor alignment although no amount of fettling the shifter will alleviate it and it has probably the most straight chainline at this setting (maybe that's the reason). I'm also aware this combination is exactly divisible (i.e. a 2:1 ratio) which I know is arguably bad for wear.. while also probably being the most likely used ratio.
I need to sling a new chain on it but am deliberating over where to source one and am a bit anxious that it might not play well with the older chainring and cassette; although they don't look obviously worn..
Thanks - I did consider one but PlanetX are doing KMC chains for about £3 after discount code IIRC; the fly in the ointment is whether I can justify the spend on the pair of spare Conti tyres I've been watching on their site; and what other "essential" sales items I might get drawn into..
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
It looks to me as though the rack was designed for a bike with smaller sized wheels. For casual occasional use where it might have a carrier bag bungee strapped to it's top, but not fitted with proper touring panniers, it's hardly going to matter. A £22 functional bike is a good result, look at the plus points, it's a British-built lugged steel Raleigh, it's got a decent riding if unexotic frame, and it's low enough in cost/value not to be too paranoid about leaving it unattended. Cheapo bikes like this are freedom bikes, where you can just use them unconstrained by the factors that would curtail you from taking out an expensive one.
Thanks - not sure about the rack v. wheel size tbh but something certainly doesn't look right. An image search of similar bikes suggests a range of different panier attitudes (including some apparently the same as mine).. perhaps Raleigh just used this model to punt on a load of old stock intended for another...?
I totally agree with your other points though and find myself loving it for precisely the reasons you give. It certainly brings a feeling of freedom not having to worry about locking it up and makes it feel a lot more useful and versatile than my more expensive bikes as I'd never leave them unattented anywhere outside the house (or ride them when a bit sloshed).
It does breed a certain dichotomy in my mind though; I constantly want to make it better (because I like it and that's what I do) but of course this would require spending money and essentially detracting from the factors that make it so appealing in the first place.
I think this bike has defintely broken the n+1 seal.. before I got it I was content with the idea of a CRFP road bike, steel gravel bike and a utility bike of some discription (maybe even just the utility bike and gravel bike at a minimalist push). Now I've developed a proper fetish for an old, original high-ish end '80s racer (like a Raleigh Record Ace or similar), as well as a nice late '80s / early '90s vintage steel frame with a nice modern groupset.
Not that I have the money or the space, but mentally at least it looks like this bike has opened the floodgates!
Another scintillating update...
Earlier I attacked the rims with some fine steel wool and they're pretty presentable now from a distance. Of course they're still speckled and a bit rough to the touch where the chrome has been lifted / removed by the corrosion, but the scrubbing has removed a lot of the rust bloom around the broken chrom so it doesn't look as severe. I need to find some way of protecting them now; thinking carnauba wax might be the best bet but suggestions are welcome as always.
While I was at it I gave the somewhat rusty panier a bit of a tickle in a few areas and it reacted really well; the corrosion almost completely disappearing (apart from in the most severe areas), leaving a nice smooth finish. Not sure why this reacted so differently to the rims; maybe the plating is softer or it's some form of stainless (although it's still magnetic).
I also found a couple more bulges in the rear wheel I'd evidently missed so will try to remember to address them next time the wheel's off.
I went out for a gentle mosey (given the heat) and found that the front end didn't feel too clever under braking again. It transpired that the headset and front caliper nuts had worked loose, so these were nipped up when I got back.. I gave the headset locknut a bit more of a crank this time so hopefully it'll stay put, but lack the slim 10mm spanner necessary to hold the half-nut on the caliper so suspect this will continue to work loose until I source the right tool (really need a 14mm one for the hubs too).
I came back via the shops and the panier is still proving novel for allowing me to carry a greater amount of vital provisions
Earlier I attacked the rims with some fine steel wool and they're pretty presentable now from a distance. Of course they're still speckled and a bit rough to the touch where the chrome has been lifted / removed by the corrosion, but the scrubbing has removed a lot of the rust bloom around the broken chrom so it doesn't look as severe. I need to find some way of protecting them now; thinking carnauba wax might be the best bet but suggestions are welcome as always.
While I was at it I gave the somewhat rusty panier a bit of a tickle in a few areas and it reacted really well; the corrosion almost completely disappearing (apart from in the most severe areas), leaving a nice smooth finish. Not sure why this reacted so differently to the rims; maybe the plating is softer or it's some form of stainless (although it's still magnetic).
I also found a couple more bulges in the rear wheel I'd evidently missed so will try to remember to address them next time the wheel's off.
I went out for a gentle mosey (given the heat) and found that the front end didn't feel too clever under braking again. It transpired that the headset and front caliper nuts had worked loose, so these were nipped up when I got back.. I gave the headset locknut a bit more of a crank this time so hopefully it'll stay put, but lack the slim 10mm spanner necessary to hold the half-nut on the caliper so suspect this will continue to work loose until I source the right tool (really need a 14mm one for the hubs too).
I came back via the shops and the panier is still proving novel for allowing me to carry a greater amount of vital provisions
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
That's a good job!
I put together a singlespeed bike at low cost and the temptation is always to make it better, but I wanted it to be a knockabout bike that I wasn't afraid to lock up outside shops (a) because it would be less tempting to steal and (b) because it wouldn't be a big financial loss if someone stole it anyway. So, I don't think you should spend much more on it, except... perhaps to replace the wheels? (See below!
)
I nearly got killed when I was 13 riding my bike to school. It had wheels like yours. I was late for school and went whizzing down a hill in the rain towards traffic lights at the bottom. The lights changed to red as I approached but nothing much happened when I braked on my wet chrome rims!
The cross traffic had already started moving when I accidentally jumped the red light. The drivers coming both ways spotted me and braked hard so I had a gap to squeeze through... Don't trust those wheels in the wet unless you have some kind of modern brake block that actually works on slippery chrome!
I put together a singlespeed bike at low cost and the temptation is always to make it better, but I wanted it to be a knockabout bike that I wasn't afraid to lock up outside shops (a) because it would be less tempting to steal and (b) because it wouldn't be a big financial loss if someone stole it anyway. So, I don't think you should spend much more on it, except... perhaps to replace the wheels? (See below!
)I nearly got killed when I was 13 riding my bike to school. It had wheels like yours. I was late for school and went whizzing down a hill in the rain towards traffic lights at the bottom. The lights changed to red as I approached but nothing much happened when I braked on my wet chrome rims!
The cross traffic had already started moving when I accidentally jumped the red light. The drivers coming both ways spotted me and braked hard so I had a gap to squeeze through... Don't trust those wheels in the wet unless you have some kind of modern brake block that actually works on slippery chrome!SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
There's no reason why even replacing the wheels needs to cost much. I found a well abused aluminium framed Ridgeback hybrid dumped in some bushes last year. It was in a right state, and not worth getting roadworthy again, but I did salvage a decent enough pair of alloy 700c rims and another couple of odds and ends off it all the same.
That said, I still run a 3-speed roadster and a hack Raleigh Pioneer on steel rims without issues. No, they don't stop too great in the wet, but since I don't enjoy cycling in the rain anyway, I'm not going to be riding them in the wet to begin with - unless I get caught out by an unexpected shower. In that case I take it easy and remember the limits of the stopping power. One day years ago I got drenched visiting a relative with a house at the top of a very steep road on a 3-speed, and it was still raining when it was time to go home. Rather than risk a no-stop at the T-junction at the bottom I just walked down the road pushing the bike and got on at the bottom. The rest of the journey was on the moist side, but otherwise uneventful. You just ride according to the road conditions and the type of machine you are on.
