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A.Z.KOETSIER
Active Member
Thank you Citius, seems many traveled first class epigram cabin.
Short Cranks vs Big Cranks, Which is Better?
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Thank you Citius, seems many traveled first class epigram cabin.
dan_bo
How much does it cost to Oldham?
Show us yer monster cranks
One more thought on long vs short cranks.
Switching from 175 to 145mm is a 3 cm difference. So to keep the same leg extension at the bottom of the pedal rotation, I moved the saddle up by 3 cm. Now when the pedal is at the top of the pedal rotation, the distance from the pedal to the saddle is now 6 cm's more. This has quite a dramatic affect on the hip angle, becoming more open and the knee angle, not as bent. The "feel" on the bike is changed and you can adopt a more comfortable position with less strain on the knees and possibly.
Switching from 175 to 145mm is a 3 cm difference. So to keep the same leg extension at the bottom of the pedal rotation, I moved the saddle up by 3 cm. Now when the pedal is at the top of the pedal rotation, the distance from the pedal to the saddle is now 6 cm's more. This has quite a dramatic affect on the hip angle, becoming more open and the knee angle, not as bent. The "feel" on the bike is changed and you can adopt a more comfortable position with less strain on the knees and possibly.
OP
OP
A.Z.KOETSIER
Active Member
dan_bo
How much does it cost to Oldham?
Smart them. Who makes em?Comparison with a 170mm and some shots on my bikeView attachment 109089
View attachment 109088 View attachment 109086 View attachment 109087
Im 6' Dead and run 180mm on my race bike (crosser) and i prefer them for climbin.
Just to add my twopenneth.
OP
OP
A.Z.KOETSIER
Active Member
They are made by ANDEL from USA, (cheapest big cranks I could find) $439/£285 with like £30-50 postage and customs.
http://www.bigandtallbike.com/Andel-Road-bike-crankset-wbb-and-Chainrings--3953_p_354.html
They also have a lighter more expensive model up till 220mm, but if you looking for some really premium cranks (160-190mm) Lighting is your best option. I believe S-Works bought their design and now sell it as a Specialized product, and thus they are compatible with power2max & Specialized spiders.
http://www.lightningbikes.com/cranks/index.html
Dogtrousers
Kilometre nibbler
Don't you get toe overlap with the front wheel?
Citius
Guest
Comparison with a 170mm and some shots on my bike
View attachment 109088 View attachment 109086 View attachment 109087
A TT frame set up as a road bike, with track bars and aero bottles. What kind of riding do you do?
OP
OP
A.Z.KOETSIER
Active Member
no luckily not the frame is massively long. with a BB set far back and the fork angle is very relaxed. I have tried the big cranks on other frames and it did overlap, but no worse than some smaller frames with 172.5mm cranks on
OP
OP
A.Z.KOETSIER
Active Member
I have done everything on this bike short TTs, mostly Criteriums (surprisingly good handling ), Ride London-Surrey and even a Double century.
It is quite a ' frankinstein' at first look. But the way I saw it was a bike position based on the 3 contact points. The TT frame gave me the reach I wanted and allowed me to sit far forward with a wide open hip angle which allowed me to go lower and more aero (trying to achieve flat back- wannabe pro)
The track bar gave me the most drop I could get as the stem was already as low as I could get it. The flex on normal bars when sprinting was really dramatic. as you probably know from you track experience these DEDA bars don't move at all. (bit of stem flex)
The aero bottle is mostly empty
just for showBelow a pic during setup stages.
These threads crack me up. Some people always try to baffle others with the obvious technicalities, when there are clearly other factors to consider.
Yes, the cadence is the same no matter how long the crank arm is. We all now that is a fact, by sheer definition. When you factor in the variable of crank arm length affecting the relative gearing and effort required, you are then able to change the cadence for the same effort.
It's like saying that you will always be doing 32mph at 90rpm on a 50:11 combination. That's factual, no question, but hardly possible when you factor in the incline variable!
Yes, the cadence is the same no matter how long the crank arm is. We all now that is a fact, by sheer definition. When you factor in the variable of crank arm length affecting the relative gearing and effort required, you are then able to change the cadence for the same effort.
It's like saying that you will always be doing 32mph at 90rpm on a 50:11 combination. That's factual, no question, but hardly possible when you factor in the incline variable!
Citius
Guest
Wait, what? Other factors affect speed apart from cadence? Who knew??!!
So it should, by your own definition, also follow that the same process will also deliver a lower effort for the same cadence. In which case, precisely how many watts will you save by extending your crank arms by 10mm?
This is such a load of nonsense. If it were even half true and there was the remotest chance of a performance benefit, you would see all the pros riding 190mm (or longer) cranks. But strangely, you don't. As I said earlier, what evidence there is suggests that shorter cranks are actualy more efficient than longer cranks. But for 99% of riders (and probably 100% of CC members), none of this is relevant.
So it should, by your own definition, also follow that the same process will also deliver a lower effort for the same cadence. In which case, precisely how many watts will you save by extending your crank arms by 10mm?
This is such a load of nonsense. If it were even half true and there was the remotest chance of a performance benefit, you would see all the pros riding 190mm (or longer) cranks. But strangely, you don't. As I said earlier, what evidence there is suggests that shorter cranks are actualy more efficient than longer cranks. But for 99% of riders (and probably 100% of CC members), none of this is relevant.
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Dogtrousers
Kilometre nibbler
I'm in the process of inventing a spring loaded variable length crank. It grows in length on the downstroke (or maybe it gets shorter, I'm not sure) between then 10 and 7 o'clock positions. Similarly it shrinks (or possibly grows) on the upstroke. The result is an ellipsoid (or some wobbly circle thing) foot path that I will conclusively prove improves your pedalling efficiency by up to 17%*.
Allied with my continuously variable transmission, expanding chainwheel and spokeless wheels it will take the cycling world by storm. I'm off to kickstarter, see you there.
* "Up to" being the key words here. The actual factor may be -70%. The value of your investments may go up as well as down.
Allied with my continuously variable transmission, expanding chainwheel and spokeless wheels it will take the cycling world by storm. I'm off to kickstarter, see you there.
* "Up to" being the key words here. The actual factor may be -70%. The value of your investments may go up as well as down.
Remember those "L" shaped cranks! Some top riders used them.
I've thought of putting a smaller wheel on the front, so that you are always riding down hill?
