OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Secondhand Raleigh Junior Rigid MTB: lemon or worth a punt?
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OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Well, the derailleur arrived at lunchtime. Thanks @DCBassman 
Wednesday is looking like something of a washout in this neck of the woods, so what better to do than sequester one's self in the garage and tinker?
Once I get the FD sorted out, then I'm on the finishing straight. The only thing that's causing a little bit of concern is that there is very little clearance between the frame and the smallest sprocket on the cassette. (Yes, it's been correctly installed.)
A bit of checking with the old chain seems to indicate that I may well have fouling issues when the chain is on the smallest sprocket, although until I get the drivetrain assembled, I can't say for certain. Would sticking a couple of washers in to act as spacers between the lockring and the dropouts be an acceptable solution?
Wednesday is looking like something of a washout in this neck of the woods, so what better to do than sequester one's self in the garage and tinker?
Once I get the FD sorted out, then I'm on the finishing straight. The only thing that's causing a little bit of concern is that there is very little clearance between the frame and the smallest sprocket on the cassette. (Yes, it's been correctly installed.)
A bit of checking with the old chain seems to indicate that I may well have fouling issues when the chain is on the smallest sprocket, although until I get the drivetrain assembled, I can't say for certain. Would sticking a couple of washers in to act as spacers between the lockring and the dropouts be an acceptable solution?
12boy
Guru
- Location
- Casper WY USA
See how it goes without the washers would be my option. If I did need them I might take one off the left side, if there is that option , so as to make the wheel go in the dropouts a bit easier. Been wondering how it's been going.
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Hmm, I didn't actually look to see if there were any spacers I could take out from the non-drive side... 
Another, more permanent option, is to wind out the dropouts another couple of mm. But that is really the last resort. Otherwise I can always just run it as a 7-speed - to be fair, I don't often use the 11-tooth sprocket on my other bikes.
Another, more permanent option, is to wind out the dropouts another couple of mm. But that is really the last resort. Otherwise I can always just run it as a 7-speed - to be fair, I don't often use the 11-tooth sprocket on my other bikes.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
If you've got QR wheels there needs to be enough 'stub' of the axle in the dropouts to locate the wheel, all the skewer does is keep the wheel secure, you may be able to use a washer and in fact you may need a washer if the dropouts are too thin and too much axle sticks out the other side. I've had this happen but I got around it by leaving the springs off as there is a little recess the spring sits in that gave enough clearance for the mil or so the axle stuck out by.Hmm, I didn't actually look to see if there were any spacers I could take out from the non-drive side...
Another, more permanent option, is to wind out the dropouts another couple of mm. But that is really the last resort. Otherwise I can always just run it as a 7-speed - to be fair, I don't often use the 11-tooth sprocket on my other bikes.
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Yes, I have QR wheels, and yes, there are a couple of mm of axle sticking out of the nut. So looks like I should be able to go down the washer route.
Now to go through the big jars of washers in the garage to find something suitable...
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Well the rain this afternoon lasted for far longer than anticipated and thus kiboshed any chance of a bike ride - I don't mind cold, but cold and wet is most definitely not my idea of fun. So I've been holed out in the garage doling out some much-needed TLC to the FD that @DCBassman sent me.
Still a ways to go with it, but it is a hell of a lot cleaner and far less rusty than when it arrived here chez Casa Reynard. The combo of Barkeep's Friend, wet & dry paper and WD40 is beginning to bring it up a treat.
I'm leaving it marinating in a good coat of WD40 overnight, and then I'll have another session tomorrow.
There are subtle but noticeable differences to the profile of the cage of this one when compared to the bike's original Suntour, so fingers crossed it will solve the clash issues I was having.
Still a ways to go with it, but it is a hell of a lot cleaner and far less rusty than when it arrived here chez Casa Reynard. The combo of Barkeep's Friend, wet & dry paper and WD40 is beginning to bring it up a treat.
I'm leaving it marinating in a good coat of WD40 overnight, and then I'll have another session tomorrow.
There are subtle but noticeable differences to the profile of the cage of this one when compared to the bike's original Suntour, so fingers crossed it will solve the clash issues I was having.
DCBassman
Guru
- Location
- The lumpy far South West
Apologies for the condition, it was simply a strip and store spare part!Well the rain this afternoon lasted for far longer than anticipated and thus kiboshed any chance of a bike ride - I don't mind cold, but cold and wet is most definitely not my idea of fun. So I've been holed out in the garage doling out some much-needed TLC to the FD that @DCBassman sent me.
Still a ways to go with it, but it is a hell of a lot cleaner and far less rusty than when it arrived here chez Casa Reynard. The combo of Barkeep's Friend, wet & dry paper and WD40 is beginning to bring it up a treat.
I'm leaving it marinating in a good coat of WD40 overnight, and then I'll have another session tomorrow.
There are subtle but noticeable differences to the profile of the cage of this one when compared to the bike's original Suntour, so fingers crossed it will solve the clash issues I was having.
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Well, I must say that the FD cleaned up very nicely in the end. The dirt and most of the rust was merely superficial. The odd patch went deeper into the metal - managed to get it all off though, but there's nothing much I can do about the resultant pitting. The mechanism was also a bit gummed up, but again, nothing a good dousing in WD40 couldn't solve.
Even so, it's at times like these I'm glad I've got small fingers, as it's far easier to get into those awkward spaces.
And speaking of spaces, I found a washer that fit nicely onto the axle to sort the chain clearance issue between the smallest sprocket and the frame. It's lovely when you find a simple solution to a problem. Though when I sort out a bar bag for this bike, I'm going to stick a spare washer in there, because knowing me, I'll lose the one that's on there if I have to do a roadside repair...
Fitting the FD wasn't without its issues though.
Firstly, the metal spacers on the clamp wouldn't stay put. You really need three hands for this, but as I don't have three hands, it was double-sided sticky tape to the rescue!
Next, the clamp, even with the spacers, was just that little bit too big. Another easy fix with the classic cyclist's botch of a length of old inner tube and some electrical tape. Although it was fun trying to figure out just the right amount of inner tube to get a tight fit while still being able to close the clamp and bolt it...
Then there was the moment of realisation that the clamp needed to go a hell of a lot lower on the seat tube than the original, because the mechanism worked the opposite way. So the tape marks I'd made for reference were entirely useless.
Without that to help me, I had to work it out completely from scratch - a task that wasn't helped by a few other factors.
One was the gummy mechanism, which meant that the cage wasn't moving through its full range, and two, I had a blonde moment and hadn't fed the cable in right... The first was solved by a judiciously-applied knee to the top of the derailleur while I attended to the second.
That should have been OK, but I was getting fouling issues on the big ring when I fed a length of chain on. Given that the FD had come off a bike with the same chainrings and BB spindle length, it had to be something *else* which was causing the problem. So if the cage was at its maximum throw and I couldn't move it outwards any further, then something had to come inwards to make up the shortfall. In this case, the chainrings themselves. Tightening the crank bolt on the drive side from very tight to "can't physically turn the spanner any further" tight thankfully gave me the extra couple of mm that I needed. I also tightened the non-drive side bolt.
Am really pleased how that's worked out. Thanks once again @DCBassman
Although with this bike build, things haven't been straightforward, and I've learnt to expect the odd hiccup. I had no problems with the mudguard fit with the original FD, but as the new one sits so much lower (a good three inches or so) the cage now touches the mudguard when it's over the smallest ring. Mind, that's easily solved - all I need to do is pare down the guard a bit on that side. They're a very cheap set from Wilkinsons, so I don't mind taking a craft knife to them.
Once I've fettled the rear mudguard, then I can finally get the chain on and sort the rear gears. But all that is for another day...
Even so, it's at times like these I'm glad I've got small fingers, as it's far easier to get into those awkward spaces.
And speaking of spaces, I found a washer that fit nicely onto the axle to sort the chain clearance issue between the smallest sprocket and the frame. It's lovely when you find a simple solution to a problem. Though when I sort out a bar bag for this bike, I'm going to stick a spare washer in there, because knowing me, I'll lose the one that's on there if I have to do a roadside repair...
Fitting the FD wasn't without its issues though.
Firstly, the metal spacers on the clamp wouldn't stay put. You really need three hands for this, but as I don't have three hands, it was double-sided sticky tape to the rescue!
Next, the clamp, even with the spacers, was just that little bit too big. Another easy fix with the classic cyclist's botch of a length of old inner tube and some electrical tape. Although it was fun trying to figure out just the right amount of inner tube to get a tight fit while still being able to close the clamp and bolt it...
Then there was the moment of realisation that the clamp needed to go a hell of a lot lower on the seat tube than the original, because the mechanism worked the opposite way. So the tape marks I'd made for reference were entirely useless.
Without that to help me, I had to work it out completely from scratch - a task that wasn't helped by a few other factors.One was the gummy mechanism, which meant that the cage wasn't moving through its full range, and two, I had a blonde moment and hadn't fed the cable in right...
The first was solved by a judiciously-applied knee to the top of the derailleur while I attended to the second.That should have been OK, but I was getting fouling issues on the big ring when I fed a length of chain on. Given that the FD had come off a bike with the same chainrings and BB spindle length, it had to be something *else* which was causing the problem. So if the cage was at its maximum throw and I couldn't move it outwards any further, then something had to come inwards to make up the shortfall. In this case, the chainrings themselves. Tightening the crank bolt on the drive side from very tight to "can't physically turn the spanner any further" tight thankfully gave me the extra couple of mm that I needed. I also tightened the non-drive side bolt.
Am really pleased how that's worked out.
Thanks once again @DCBassman Although with this bike build, things haven't been straightforward, and I've learnt to expect the odd hiccup. I had no problems with the mudguard fit with the original FD, but as the new one sits so much lower (a good three inches or so) the cage now touches the mudguard when it's over the smallest ring. Mind, that's easily solved - all I need to do is pare down the guard a bit on that side. They're a very cheap set from Wilkinsons, so I don't mind taking a craft knife to them.
Once I've fettled the rear mudguard, then I can finally get the chain on and sort the rear gears. But all that is for another day...
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Did the rear mudguard today. In the end, I decided not to botch it by paring down the side, because the amount I'd have to take off meant that water and mud would spray all over the drivetrain - which kind of defeats the principle really.
So...
I cut off the flimsy plastic clip that holds the guard onto the seat tube and filed the bottom to a neat finish before drilling a hole along the centerline and about 3mm up from the re-profiled bottom edge. The next stage was to undo the bolt on the brake bridge and move the mudguard clip from the front to the back. This meant that the hole I'd drilled into the guard met up (more or less) with the hole on the chainstay bridge that's there for the purpose of mudguard fitting.
Finding a bolt to fit wasn't quite so straightforward, as most of the assorted ones I had were just that fraction too wide to go through the hole on the chainstay bridge. But then I thought to look through the box of junked bits I'd taken off the bike to see if there was something in there, and found that the retaining bolts for the old plastic brake levers were a perfect fit! Bonus!
Thus on went the bolt, a couple of washers, a dab of grease and then the nut before all was done up nice and tight. Not quite perfect, as the bolt was about 5mm too long for the job in hand, so out came the hacksaw to cut it down to size. A few goes with a file to smooth off the end, and the job's a good 'un.
The upside from not doing a botch job is that the guard is now nice and secure. It's not wonky, it doesn't rattle, no longer fouls the front derailleur and is now low enough on the frame to keep the worst of the crud away from where you don't want it to go. The downside is that there is now less clearance between wheel and guard than originally, but I can't see it being an issue.
Really pleased with how it's come out. I think that was an hour well-spent.
So...
I cut off the flimsy plastic clip that holds the guard onto the seat tube and filed the bottom to a neat finish before drilling a hole along the centerline and about 3mm up from the re-profiled bottom edge. The next stage was to undo the bolt on the brake bridge and move the mudguard clip from the front to the back. This meant that the hole I'd drilled into the guard met up (more or less) with the hole on the chainstay bridge that's there for the purpose of mudguard fitting.
Finding a bolt to fit wasn't quite so straightforward, as most of the assorted ones I had were just that fraction too wide to go through the hole on the chainstay bridge. But then I thought to look through the box of junked bits I'd taken off the bike to see if there was something in there, and found that the retaining bolts for the old plastic brake levers were a perfect fit! Bonus!
Thus on went the bolt, a couple of washers, a dab of grease and then the nut before all was done up nice and tight. Not quite perfect, as the bolt was about 5mm too long for the job in hand, so out came the hacksaw to cut it down to size. A few goes with a file to smooth off the end, and the job's a good 'un.
The upside from not doing a botch job is that the guard is now nice and secure. It's not wonky, it doesn't rattle, no longer fouls the front derailleur and is now low enough on the frame to keep the worst of the crud away from where you don't want it to go. The downside is that there is now less clearance between wheel and guard than originally, but I can't see it being an issue.
Really pleased with how it's come out. I think that was an hour well-spent.
12boy
Guru
- Location
- Casper WY USA
For some reason I wasn't alerted to new posts on the thread and was just about to ask you when you would quit lollygagging, get off your butt and do some work. Sounds like you have already. Be sure to send us some pics when it's done which should be soon.
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Lollygagging? Oh my...
I'll get some pics done - just need some decent daylight in which to do them.
Not much left to do, really. The last job is to put the chain on and sort the rear gears, but this last job is the fiddliest one of the whole build. I've never done this before, so I'm not expecting things to go smoothly. I also need to work out why the blazes the cable won't stay put in the RD pinch bolt - it keeps pulling out.
Weather's not looking so good for the next couple of days, so an excuse to go to the garage and try to get it sorted.
It might need wrapping around the bolt
