Rear derailleur...which screw to adjust?

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OP
OP
Mazz

Mazz

Senior Member
Location
Leicester
How much more movement is there on the rear mech? Doesn’t look that tight.
I'm not sure how to answer that.
By hand, I can push the mech quite far back. Trying to push it forward there is only a little movement because the mech clashes with the largest cog.
I also tried to put an S-bend in the chain using finger and thumb (see pics).
 

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Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
Looks like there’s enough to take the links out. Push the bottom derailleur wheel forwards as far as it can go. Take a photo if you can.

Here is a photo from the manual for my bike on what it should look like in big big and through the derailleur as a setup method. The bottom derailleur wheel should always be able to move forward a little from this position. In other words that should not be the limit of ho far forward it can move and the teeth still engage the chain.

IMG_0527.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Mazz

Mazz

Senior Member
Location
Leicester
Looks like there’s enough to take the links out. Push the bottom derailleur wheel forwards as far as it can go. Take a photo if you can.

Here is a photo from the manual for my bike on what it should look like in big big and through the derailleur as a setup method. The bottom derailleur wheel should always be able to move forward a little from this position. In other words that should not be the limit of ho far forward it can move and the teeth still engage the chain.

View attachment 744205

I pushed the bottom jockey wheel by finger. I could push it until it could go no further, because it clashed with the chainstay...
IMG_20240906_190957.jpg
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
If I were you I'd take a link out.

I'd hazard a guess that taking two out might be even better.

But it's up to you now, nobody here can give you any more advice.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Remove one one inch link: no more. Then you'll find cage points at about 4 o'clock. And in small/small given that the wrap requirement of your set up is within the RD-4700's spec, the return section of the chain should be clear of the bit round the tension pulley wheel. But as said before, it doesn't matter if it isn't. Any noise is the nudge to shift to the large ring and to try a bit harder to avoid small/small.
 

fransky

New Member
There is never a need to go on those two, it puts to much bend in the chain for one thing.

Yes that’s true
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
One handy hint, albeit not an answer to the
question, is to replace the adjuster screws with stainless allen cap screws. The original ones seem to be made of a metallic form of cheese and the cross-head screws are likely JIS rather than Phillips so will not fit the screwdriver on your multi-tool and you'll likely not even have a JIS screwdriver unless you seek one out specially
 
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