New Endurance bike

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All uphill

Still rolling along
Location
Somerset
Can anyone recommend me an unadventurous gravel endurance bike. ;)

Digging in to it ... Just trying to sort it out in my mind.

I think the term "endurance" describes racy-looking bikes suitable for unfit inflexible old gits like me who wouldn't be able to handle an actual race bike.

Gravel, we all know about. Sort of like MTBs with drop bars, but the term "hybrid" was alrwady taken. Often 1x

I think adventure bikes are basically tourers. So a robust frame with a zillion bolt ons for racks and stuff.

Me: What does adventure bike mean?

Salesperson: What would you like it to mean, sir?
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
I think adventure bikes are basically tourers. So a robust frame with a zillion bolt ons for racks and stuff.

amazingly enough, I have taken my old 531 steel frame tourers on similar terrain to my adventure equipped "modern-ish" gravel bike, and fitted similar luggage to it, and I didn't die :laugh:. I reckon you'l be fine on your existing bike with carradice saddle bag for you adventure sandwiches.
 

Jameshow

Veteran
Ha! I was only aware of the version I quoted as my buddies refer to their Adventure bikes. It's crazy stuff.

I think geometry makes a big difference some are like hybrids in there position whilst others are like road bike. I prefer the latter. My cx bike is pretty much race bike geometry tbh. Id get one that mimics your existing bikes.
 
I know you love your Dolan Tuono greatly, but as others have said, on the road a carbon gravel bike with road tyres will give a remarkably similar ride. There are differences and if the OP is going to solely / mainly stick to tarmac, then yes Tuono should be on the shortlist.. If they want the option of fatter tyres, more potential for light touring etc then a Dolan GXC would be on the list. (or GXT if they fancy Titanium)

IIRC -;the quote was a "Gravel bike with road tyres will be the same as an Endurance bike"

My CGR rides nothing like my Dolan - and the Dolan is a fair bit quicker than my Merida carbon - both run 28mm tyres.

Sorry I dont agree with the general point that switching the tyres on a gravel bike will give the same performance.....and if the OP is after a fast carbon road bike - without the aggressive position - I feel he will be disappointed with a skinny tyres converted gravel bike.
 
I'll join the chorus of people suggesting a bike fit. If you are spending that sort of money, it's good advice.

As for the Ribble CGRs ... I find my CGR Ti supremely comfortable and fairly quick. Whilst it's not a bike for winning races, it is possibly the fastest bike I've ever had and I'm including in that list bikes of ten/fifteen years ago that some people were using for crits. I think the wheels, tyres and comfort are big factors in that.
 
OP
OP
DP-UK

DP-UK

Member
Thanks all for your input so far.

To add to my story.....

I have just weighed my bike (Kinesis) and it's 13.1 kg
Just to get used to racing bars (or whatever they are called) I bought another bike 2nd hand (Scott CR1 Pro), which is full carbon and the weight it 8.2kg so much lighter.

I suppose I want the best of both comfort position of Kinesis but as light as the Scott.

Why do I want to buy another ? Good Q but I think the Scott is old now, and the Kenesis has a fair bit of value currently, which I can rotate/maintain with a new bike, otherwise it will only reduce in value. Besides who doesn't like getting a new bike :smile:
 

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StuAff

Silencing his legs regularly
Location
Portsmouth
Thanks all for your input so far.

To add to my story.....

I have just weighed my bike (Kinesis) and it's 13.1 kg
Just to get used to racing bars (or whatever they are called) I bought another bike 2nd hand (Scott CR1 Pro), which is full carbon and the weight it 8.2kg so much lighter.

I suppose I want the best of both comfort position of Kinesis but as light as the Scott.

Why do I want to buy another ? Good Q but I think the Scott is old now, and the Kenesis has a fair bit of value currently, which I can rotate/maintain with a new bike, otherwise it will only reduce in value. Besides who doesn't like getting a new bike :smile:

I don't want to alarm you, but judging by the pic, I think you might have too many spacers under your stem. Columbus, the fork manufacturer, specifies that "there is no more than a 40mm distance from the top of the upper headset bearing to the bottom of the stem". In the case of the Kinesis Range fork on my ATR, I had 50mm of spacers when the warranty specified 30mm. A flipped stem might well be enough to get you the same bar height with a warranty-supported number of spacers.
 
OP
OP
DP-UK

DP-UK

Member
I don't want to alarm you, but judging by the pic, I think you might have too many spacers under your stem. Columbus, the fork manufacturer, specifies that "there is no more than a 40mm distance from the top of the upper headset bearing to the bottom of the stem". In the case of the Kinesis Range fork on my ATR, I had 50mm of spacers when the warranty specified 30mm. A flipped stem might well be enough to get you the same bar height with a warranty-supported number of spacers.

Thanks but I think the bike is out of warranty anyway. Also I didn't buy it new.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Thanks but I think the bike is out of warranty anyway. Also I didn't buy it new.

Ignore the warranty, the point is, if its a carbon steerer, which these chaps think it is, too long a piece of steerer above the head tube means the internal compression clamp is all clamping to steerer external of the head tube, which makes it more vulnerable to snapping with potentially fairly catastrophic consequences for you, unless youve fitted an extra long compression clamp

not quite illustrating it but you get the drift....
1726145869442.png
 
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