I've just gone road tubeless - a lot of ups and downs but is it a steep learning curve?

[Milzy]

What size tyre?

Can't hear it slosh about in my tyre but my hearing isn't the best - so I am told.

25 mm.

I think Shane Miller has 60psi and he’s a bit heavier than I albeit not a lot.

 

[lane]

It's the only method I have used in 5+ years of running tubeless, no problems so far.

Are you using the racing sealent as opposed to most other types desisned to go throgh the valve?

 

[Milzy]

Joes juice is the best sealant.

 

[lane]

Continental recomend 80 psi for 25s. They recommend 65 psi for 28s and 32s and I have been running my 32s at 65psi but weigh 82kg.

 

[Venod]

Are you using the racing sealent as opposed to most other types desisned to go throgh the valve?

No normal Stans, but I have used Peatys solution that contains lots of bits, I didn't know there was different Stans so I may have trouble using it.

 

[lane]

According to bicycle rolling resistance review at 80psi the tyre has 9.9 watts rolling resistance and 11.6 watts at 65psi based on a 25 tyre. Therefore you are giving up very little to run them at 65psi so I can't really see much reason not to run much or at all higher.

 

[Milzy]

According to bicycle rolling resistance review at 80psi the tyre has 9.9 watts rolling resistance and 11.6 watts at 65psi based on a 25 tyre. Therefore you are giving up very little to run them at 65psi so I can't really see much reason not to run much or at all higher.

Just looked on their page & it says 80psi. I’ll adjust tomorrow & see if I can feel any benefit.

 

[Racing roadkill]

I bought some 'tubeless ready' or '2-way' campag rims and have had tubeless tyres on for a while. The rims have no holes for spokes and so are sealed on the inside. Apart from the valve hole of course.

That’s a true ‘tubeless’ design, and does work a whole lot better in my experience.

I read that tubeless ready ie 2-way rims are designed differently where the tyre seats to conventional rims in that the shape of where the tyre sits keeps the tyre in place if you do lose air. Whereas on a clincher rim, in the event of a sudden loss of all pressure, there is little to stop the tyre from coming off. Only what I read so I can't say from personal experience.

That’s correct, and the issues ( including the de rimming ) are very real, with the tape modified standard clincher ( tubeless ready ) design. Also, Stans sealant is Latex based. This doesn’t like CO2. If you’re using CO2 to inflate your tyres you’d be better off using a non latex sealant, like Finish line.

https://www.evanscycles.com/finish-line-tubeless-tire-sealant-1l-bottle-EV361494

It’s not quite as effective as Stans et.al. but it doesn’t degrade, especially if you use CO2.

 

[lane]

Its not just on a converted clincher rim that a tyre can unseat but also on some tubeless ready rims (including mine) because of how they are designed. I have also heard of tyres blowing off at higher pressure. If I was buying rims now I would be quite careful with the rim profile or maybe go for Mavic tubeless rims. As it is I will use what I have.

 

[Racing roadkill]

Its not just on a converted clincher rim that a tyre can unseat but also on some tubeless ready rims (including mine) because of how they are designed. I have also heard of tyres blowing off at higher pressure. If I was buying rims now I would be quite careful with the rim profile or maybe go for Mavic tubeless rims. As it is I will use what I have.

That’s very true. Not all tubeless are created equal. I’ve used trial and error to work out what’s what so far, the ‘errors’ can be a bit though.

 

[fossyant]

On MTB's it's common for the tubeless tyres to 'leak' through the carcass at first. I've not bothered as I do swap tyres round. As for tyres coming off (burping), that can happen, possibly more so with MTB's running low pressures (the advantage of tubeless - you get away with much lower pressures for better grip).

 

[Racing roadkill]

On MTB's it's common for the tubeless tyres to 'leak' through the carcass at first. I've not bothered as I do swap tyres round. As for tyres coming off (burping), that can happen, possibly more so with MTB's running low pressures (the advantage of tubeless - you get away with much lower pressures for better grip).

A lot of the latest generation of road tubeless tyres have an internal butyl layer ( like an open inner tube ) to stop the sealant leeching.

 

[Jody]

That's why I had to replace the valves. It got harder and harder to get air in .

Its easier to take the valve core out then it wont clog up.

 

[mikeymustard]

Continental recomend 80 psi for 25s. They recommend 65 psi for 28s and 32s and I have been running my 32s at 65psi but weigh 82kg.

Just looked on their page & it says 80psi. I’ll adjust tomorrow & see if I can feel any benefit.

from my limited experience of running the gp5000 tubeless I would say 80psi is going to feel rock hard, particularly on a skinny like yourself; as a more manly [cough ] 110+kg I'm liking >70psi so far

 

[Milzy]

from my limited experience of running the gp5000 tubeless I would say 80psi is going to feel rock hard, particularly on a skinny like yourself; as a more manly [cough ] 110+kg I'm liking >70psi so far

I’ll try 65 first.