I've just gone road tubeless - a lot of ups and downs but is it a steep learning curve?

[Sbudge]

I agree with the earlier poster that it can be quite hit and miss with Tyre <> Wheel compatibility. My JRAs really didn't like GP5000s (blew off twice at quite low pressure) but are a dream with Schwalbe Pro Ones. Generally I find either the standard Stans or Muc-Off to be great sealants. I use Peaty's valves as they are well made and have a very handy valve core remover built into the valve cap.

When fitting onto particularly stubborn rims (like my 50mm DCRs) I sometimes need to resort to one of these https://goo.gl/images/ggQ4vp
..and yes, air escaping through the valve area is almost always a sign of the rim tape leaking somewhere and the air making it's way around the wheel void.

I now have all but one set of wheels converted to tubeless and would never go back.

 

[lane]

If people are running 25s at 65psi then perhaps I should be looking lower than that on 32s? mind you felt fine at 65psi but since I hadn't pumped it up for a week might have been down to 55psi when I went out this weekend and still felt fine and rolled nicely.

 

[Racing roadkill]

If people are running 25s at 65psi then perhaps I should be looking lower than that on 32s? mind you felt fine at 65psi but since I hadn't pumped it up for a week might have been down to 55psi when I went out this weekend and still felt fine and rolled nicely.

I’ve got a 25mm 700c home on 30 psi.

 

[lane]

Checked pressure after two weeks and lost approximately 25psi so very close to my earlier estimate of 10 to 15 psi a week. I am not at all unhappy with this. Pumped back up to 65.

Went out for another 50km including mix of stoney canal path (relatively short distance) and no problems.

 

[Milzy]

Checked pressure after two weeks and lost approximately 25psi so very close to my earlier estimate of 10 to 15 psi a week. I am not at all unhappy with this. Pumped back up to 65.

Went out for another 50km including mix of stoney canal path (relatively short distance) and no problems.

Mike Cotty takes his 25c road tubeless set up onto gravel trails with really low pressure with no problems.
Love mine, I find I can corner faster without under steer I used to get.

 

[HLaB]

That’s a true ‘tubeless’ design, and does work a whole lot better in my experience.




That’s correct, and the issues ( including the de rimming ) are very real, with the tape modified standard clincher ( tubeless ready ) design. Also, Stans sealant is Latex based. This doesn’t like CO2. If you’re using CO2 to inflate your tyres you’d be better off using a non latex sealant, like Finish line.

https://www.evanscycles.com/finish-line-tubeless-tire-sealant-1l-bottle-EV361494

It’s not quite as effective as Stans et.al. but it doesn’t degrade, especially if you use CO2.

I'd avoid Finish Line, 'not as effective as Stans et al.' is an understatement; it cant seal anything and you lose so much pressure that if you hit a little bump like a cateye the tyre unseats and its really messy when it does. I've experience of this and reviews say similar and the other folk I know who have tried it. Touch wood, despite using latex sealant circa 10x longer than the Finishline experiment, I've never had a problem with the Latex stuff. Use a tubeless track pump or a normal track pump if you just want to top up air

 

[fossyant]

I've never had an issue to even consider 'tubeless' in 30 years of all forms of bikes. Road or MTB. The 'mess' puts me off to start with. I can change a tube in minutes and I do change my MTB tyres a fair amount to suit conditions.

 

[lane]

Not used finish line but seen a lot of poor reviews to put me off

 

[lane]

Cycleclinic recommend non latex for road bikes and sell it but not finish line

 

[Milzy]

I've never had an issue to even consider 'tubeless' in 30 years of all forms of bikes. Road or MTB. The 'mess' puts me off to start with. I can change a tube in minutes and I do change my MTB tyres a fair amount to suit conditions.

It depends on your cycling. If you want to finish sportives quicker tubeless will make you a little faster. If you want to take corners faster you will. If you want a more comfortable ride then you’ve got it.
It’s not for everybody but I’d never go back. I’ll use innertubes for my winter bike for now but I’m tempted to eventually even change that to tubeless too. So much more tire contact & grip in bad weather.

 

[fossyant]

It depends on your cycling. If you want to finish sportives quicker tubeless will make you a little faster. If you want to take corners faster you will. If you want a more comfortable ride then you’ve got it.
It’s not for everybody but I’d never go back. I’ll use innertubes for my winter bike for now but I’m tempted to eventually even change that to tubeless too. So much more tire contact & grip in bad weather.

I was a TT'er. Sorry but Michelin Pro Race Tyres and latex tubes were the business. A sportive isn't a race, and I never punctured on big rides - it was only commutes . Been riding road bikes for 30 years and it's a load of marketing crap - same with MTB, and this silly obsession with oval chain rings now... good god, cyclists are like golfers now.

I don't see the need with tubeless - I don't have enough punctures to worry about it, even on the MTB. Too much messy gunk to deal with down the line when I swap tyres.

 

[Milzy]

I was a TT'er. Sorry but Michelin Pro Race Tyres and latex tubes were the business. A sportive isn't a race, and I never punctured on big rides - it was only commutes . Been riding road bikes for 30 years and it's a load of marketing crap - same with MTB, and this silly obsession with oval chain rings now... good god, cyclists are like golfers now.

I don't see the need with tubeless - I don't have enough punctures to worry about it, even on the MTB. Too much messy gunk to deal with down the line when I swap tyres.

Just come from Latex tubes & Michelin pros. The tires wore out quick & had latex tubes just deflate through dodgey valves.
The Fred Whitton is a sportive but people still ‘race’ it.
Oval chain rings have been scientifically proven, ask Chris Froome.

 

[lane]

Not really a marginal gains person. However the tubeless tyres I have fitted a quite a lot faster. I could have got the clincher version which is just as fast but would be worried about punctures. Running at lower pressure they are more comfortable as well as faster can't really see what is not to like. Working for me so far anyway.

 

[mikeymustard]

There's a few articles around which test sealants at mtb pressures (e.g. here) but i haven't found any that look at higher pressures. if anyone knows of one I'd like to take a look.
I'd love to do my own experiments (even just to see if the Oko magic milk I've used is any good) but I'm not deliberately putting holes in tyres that have cost me best part of 50 spuds each!
Perhaps I could set up an old wheel and tyre "guerilla style" just to test the sealant (not to ride, obviously).
Hmm....goes off to garage to look at his wheel/tyre stash. I think I've still got a pair of Lithions on one of my bikes - they're tight enough to not pop off the rim at the first oppo!

 

[lane]

There's a few articles around which test sealants at mtb pressures (e.g. here) but i haven't found any that look at higher pressures. if anyone knows of one I'd like to take a look.
I'd love to do my own experiments (even just to see if the Oko magic milk I've used is any good) but I'm not deliberately putting holes in tyres that have cost me best part of 50 spuds each!
Perhaps I could set up an old wheel and tyre "guerilla style" just to test the sealant (not to ride, obviously).
Hmm....goes off to garage to look at his wheel/tyre stash. I think I've still got a pair of Lithions on one of my bikes - they're tight enough to not pop off the rim at the first oppo!

Interesting project. I did look at some reviews when I went tubeless but have just checked and you are correct they were for pressures of 30psi but I never noticed.