Hybrid, what do i gain by spending a bit more?

[CanucksTraveller]

I answer to your basic question of "What do I get by spending a bit more" then the broadest answer is better quality, with some caveats.

When you're talking "X" make of bike at £300 versus the comparable "Y" make of bike at £700 then the "Y" bike is probably going to be better put together with better components, better welding, and it'll be lighter in most cases and will quite possibly last longer. It'll almost certainly feel more fun to ride.

If you're comparing similar models from the same manufacturer, I looked at a Trek 7.1 versus a 7.3 with the difference of about £150 all told, the difference was a better grade of aluminium in the frame, upgraded drivetrain (Shimano Deore versus Shimano entry level) and Bontrager components elsewhere, i.e. seat and seat post, stem, headset, bars and rims, all versus Trek's basic components. You can spend another couple of hundred on the 7.5 to get better components still, and the biggest difference there is the weight.

Once you get away from entry level then the biggest differences are generally in weight.

 

[Mike!]

CanucksTraveller - does better spec also mean lasting longer though?

I appreciate that going up in 'gear spec' will result in smoother changes etc but will it last longer than a lower spec system given the same maintenance? I assume (maybe incorrectly) it will not.....

 

[Moodyman]

does better spec also mean lasting longer though?

Yes.

Better components are made of better materials with improved durability. However, there is an argument that once you get to a certain point, the better component is only lighter and less durable.

In mountain biking this would be XT level and in road cycling this is probably in the 105/Ultegra territory.

 

[Zoiders]

Most of the hybrid you have mentioned are flat bar road bikes or similar and will all still be quite rigid and stretched out, in comparison to the crosser you were on I can't see the flat bar bikes being anymore comfortable than the crosser was when ridden on the hoods, possibly even less so.

A better choice would possibly be a sportive bike or a tourer if you want the option of canti's but not the race geometry of the crosser.

Other than that it's going to be a trekking bike or 26" wheeled MTB conversion of some decription, possibly run with butterfly bars.

 

[Mike!]

Zoiders, the medium sized Boardman is comfortable for me and feels a lot like riding the crossed on the tops, trouble is I don't like riding on the tops with drop bars as it feels twitchy with my hands close together. Riding on the hoods is fine for the feel of the bike but uncomfortable after a while.

It maybe that the cross bike is a bit big for me (got it second hand). After trying it for a while and for the riding I do (in town) I feel more secure having flats with the brakes close to hand. I have actually gone back to my mtb for now due to the comfort and the above issues.

This isn't aimed at you but I've found a real "vibe" against flats on this forum with a lot of people seeming to believe that drops are the only bikes worth having. That's not just this forum though to be fair, some shops have the same attitude and a lot if magazines too....

 

[MacB]

Mike, nothing wrong with flat bars and I started from a position of not wanting drops but I had a long commute and the one hand position offered by flat bars wasn't enough. I then worked my way through a huge array of handlebars and controls to try and get a setup I really liked. I did thousands of miles on butterfly handelbars but eventually ended up at drop bars. Purely because I found I favoured the hands at the sides position and was unable to successfully get the controls accessible there. Shallow drop bars with crosstop brake levers really work for me, though my gear changing is either on the down tube or at the barends at present. This gives me braking from 3 hand positions and makes the difference for me.

I note you said you're not sure on bike fit, I'd sort that first and foremost because it may be that it's just the drop from saddle to bars, or the saddle/crank/bars triangle that isn't quite right for you. You can pay for a full fitting but I'd also recommend these two sites:-

http://www.prodigalchild.net/Bicycle6.htm
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&INTRO_LINK=NOREDIR

The first gives some really easy to follow info in the first 3-4 pages and a handy chart and the second gives 3 fit options based on detailed measurements, you'd need a friend to help you with those. It's best to setup the bike from saddle forwards, so get the saddle at the right height, and distance back of the BB, before going on to position the bars. This data will work for flatbars as well just adjust accordingly for the different bar/stem combos.

Don't assume that a shop that sells bikes will necessarily give good info on bike selection or fit, they should but it's not guaranteed. My first purchase for commuting was a lightweight, flat bar, fast hybrid that I was assured would be fine for me, a rack, panniers and a 40 mile round trip. This is now stripped down as my weekend bike(with drop bars), it's great for unladen riding but was totally unsuitable for the laden commute. My next commuter was a Surly Crosscheck steel frame, built up with hub gears, butterfly bars, brooks saddle, full guards, rack, etc. It was far comfier over rougher ground, laden handling and ride was superior and, most importantly, it was a lot less harsh when I was sitting heavier on the saddle, tired, on my way home.

As I say, nothing wrong with flat bars but they'd be my last choice for lengthy rides, I'd want at least bar ends on them. but I wouldn't want to do anything until I'd sorted out my ride position and sizing.

 

[Mike!]

thanks for the comprehensive reply MacB.

I suspect that a slightly shorter (stem?) to bring the bars a bit closer would probably get rid of the neck and back pain i am getting. I have considered trying this but would still be longing for the hand position and quick access to the full breaking power that you just don't get on the hoods.

I should probably clarify that my commute is a short one (5 miles each way) and through traffic. Yes the Boardman i'm considering is probably a big overkill but I like to have decent stuff.

I will also use it at other times and I'm giving very serious consideration to selling the second car (this will pay for the boardman within about 3 to 4 months with what i save in fuel, insurance etc etc). The longest ride i'd undertake would probably be around 30 miles but this wouldn't happen much.

I did a 60 mile charity ride this year which i may repeat again next year but i'm certainly not going to be stomping around doing 100s of miles at the weekends (family and gold take up that time!)

 

[Jenkins]

Mike,

I'm guessing that you went to the Halfords at Suffolk Retail Park - try having a look in the Ransomes Estate one. When I was there last week they had a Hybrid Team on display upstairs already kitted out with full mudguards and a rack. With the 2011 bikes due in soon there may be a deal available.

You should consider changing the cassette to a road spec as I have the Hybrid Comp and changed from the 11-32 to a 12-23 at the first opportunity and I'm in the same area as you and I can still get up Spring Road/Woodbridge Road/Bishops Hill or Valley Road without problems. Also to change the riding position consider an in-line seat post or a shorter or riser stem. Another option for mudguards are Zefal Trail Hybrid/City items from Wiggle for £8. These are OK for damp roads but not recommended for full wet use as they are not full coverage.

The hybrid will cope with the longer runs easily - this year I have done trips round to Shotley (from Felixstowe) and a 45 miler loop round Woodbridge, Grundisburgh, Coddenham and Ipswich on mine as well as numerous commutes and trips to Ipswich. If you do buy one I would recommend changing the tyres as well as the Maxxis ones are useless - I'm currently on Vittoria Rubinio Pro Slick 25s which are fantastic.

 

[e-rider]

does better spec also mean lasting longer though?

Yes.

Better components are made of better materials with improved durability. However, there is an argument that once you get to a certain point, the better component is only lighter and less durable.

In mountain biking this would be XT level and in road cycling this is probably in the 105/Ultegra territory.

Wrong - most high spec components are built with the objective of being lightweight and high performance; often very little consideration is given to durability! Unlike mid-range components that tend to be the most hard wearing off all.

 

[longers]

If you get comfy on flat bars then there's plenty of riding you can do. If you end up wanting drops then it means a new bike somewhere down the line.


I don't think anyones said this yet but anything you are underbudget can be used to change bits once you've ridden the bike a bit.

 

[Mike!]

Mike,

I'm guessing that you went to the Halfords at Suffolk Retail Park - try having a look in the Ransomes Estate one. When I was there last week they had a Hybrid Team on display upstairs already kitted out with full mudguards and a rack. With the 2011 bikes due in soon there may be a deal available.

You should consider changing the cassette to a road spec as I have the Hybrid Comp and changed from the 11-32 to a 12-23 at the first opportunity and I'm in the same area as you and I can still get up Spring Road/Woodbridge Road/Bishops Hill or Valley Road without problems. Also to change the riding position consider an in-line seat post or a shorter or riser stem. Another option for mudguards are Zefal Trail Hybrid/City items from Wiggle for £8. These are OK for damp roads but not recommended for full wet use as they are not full coverage.

The hybrid will cope with the longer runs easily - this year I have done trips round to Shotley (from Felixstowe) and a 45 miler loop round Woodbridge, Grundisburgh, Coddenham and Ipswich on mine as well as numerous commutes and trips to Ipswich. If you do buy one I would recommend changing the tyres as well as the Maxxis ones are useless - I'm currently on Vittoria Rubinio Pro Slick 25s which are fantastic.

Jenkins,

I have been to both, actually called into the Ransomes one tonight to have a look around. I did notice the Hybrid team that was kitted up but i also noticed it was a non disc rack and wasn't actually bolted to anything at all at the bottom!!! It did confirm that they do look fine with full guards and a rack though which is good.

My route home is usually via Spring road but sometimes go via Woodridge or valley road and i make it up with my current 50/34 and 12/25 setup but not really sure how those two compare gearing wise, i'd have thought not too much difference?

Tyres would be on the initial list along with guards and a rack!! Currently running Marathon Pro's on my cross bike so may think about swapping those over.

 

[MacB]

Mike, 5 miles each way is doable on just about anything so are 30 mile rides, as long as the bike fits and is set up to suit you. That's why I'd recommend checking those links so that you have a better idea of what works for you. If you're buying another bike most shops will swap out parts for you at point of sale, but may not do so afterwards. For example, if you really like a certain Boardman but need a wider saddle, seatpost changed to setback, or vice versa to inline, stem changed from 120mm to 110mm...etc, I'd expect them to do that as part of the sale, but you need to know how you want it setup first. From the Dave Moulton site I know that my combined top tube(effective) and stem length should be about 705mm. From the Competitive Cyclist site I know my saddle setback is in the range 68-84mm, with the shorter setback being the racier fit and the longer being the more relaxed. From trial and error I actually had 75-80mm setback on each of my bikes and the combined TT and stem at about 705mm. I was genuinely surprised by how accurate these web based things were as I'd arrived at these setups via a long, and expensive, process of experimentation. Some of the cost was poor bike shop advice but more was my inital error of setting up handlebars and working back, rather than saddle and working forward.

It doesn't matter whether you're sticking with the Limba(though I too would want the ability to mount a rack), getting a Boardman or something else entirely, it's worth minimising future expense by getting the fit, and parts, as close as possible. I quite like the look of the Boardman bikes, and I now have a preference for disc brakes, though I'd personally look for titanium, steel or carbon with Aluminium being my last choice. But that's just me and plenty of people will tell you different and also insist that a well designed bike, properly fit to you, will feel the same regardless of frame material.

 

[Mike!]

Mike, 5 miles each way is doable on just about anything so are 30 mile rides, as long as the bike fits and is set up to suit you. That's why I'd recommend checking those links so that you have a better idea of what works for you. If you're buying another bike most shops will swap out parts for you at point of sale, but may not do so afterwards. For example, if you really like a certain Boardman but need a wider saddle, seatpost changed to setback, or vice versa to inline, stem changed from 120mm to 110mm...etc, I'd expect them to do that as part of the sale, but you need to know how you want it setup first. From the Dave Moulton site I know that my combined top tube(effective) and stem length should be about 705mm. From the Competitive Cyclist site I know my saddle setback is in the range 68-84mm, with the shorter setback being the racier fit and the longer being the more relaxed. From trial and error I actually had 75-80mm setback on each of my bikes and the combined TT and stem at about 705mm. I was genuinely surprised by how accurate these web based things were as I'd arrived at these setups via a long, and expensive, process of experimentation. Some of the cost was poor bike shop advice but more was my inital error of setting up handlebars and working back, rather than saddle and working forward.

It doesn't matter whether you're sticking with the Limba(though I too would want the ability to mount a rack), getting a Boardman or something else entirely, it's worth minimising future expense by getting the fit, and parts, as close as possible. I quite like the look of the Boardman bikes, and I now have a preference for disc brakes, though I'd personally look for titanium, steel or carbon with Aluminium being my last choice. But that's just me and plenty of people will tell you different and also insist that a well designed bike, properly fit to you, will feel the same regardless of frame material.

OK you've convinced me, i will check the links!

 

[Zoiders]

Zoiders, the medium sized Boardman is comfortable for me and feels a lot like riding the crossed on the tops, trouble is I don't like riding on the tops with drop bars as it feels twitchy with my hands close together. Riding on the hoods is fine for the feel of the bike but uncomfortable after a while.

It maybe that the cross bike is a bit big for me (got it second hand). After trying it for a while and for the riding I do (in town) I feel more secure having flats with the brakes close to hand. I have actually gone back to my mtb for now due to the comfort and the above issues.

This isn't aimed at you but I've found a real "vibe" against flats on this forum with a lot of people seeming to believe that drops are the only bikes worth having. That's not just this forum though to be fair, some shops have the same attitude and a lot if magazines too....

Nothing wrong with flats, I like flats and I use them on the MTB in preference to risers for single track riding.

Having said that I do think you mislead us with your OP - lack of comfort and lacking the confidence to ride drops is not quite the same thing old chap.

Have you tried wider drops?

Some people still persisit in setting bikes up with stupidly small bar widths simply because thats the way it was always done in the past, guys riding 40, 38 even 36 cm bars when the vast majority of people are better off with 42, 44 or even 46 cm bars.

 

[Mike!]

Nothing wrong with flats, I like flats and I use them on the MTB in preference to risers for single track riding.

Having said that I do think you mislead us with your OP - lack of comfort and lacking the confidence to ride drops is not quite the same thing old chap.

Have you tried wider drops?

Some people still persisit in setting bikes up with stupidly small bar widths simply because thats the way it was always done in the past, guys riding 40, 38 even 36 cm bars when the vast majority of people are better off with 42, 44 or even 46 cm bars.

I probably didn't explain my issues correctly on the first post so for that i stand apologise, however it's certainly not a lack of confidence, drops and flats both have there advantages. For the riding i do flats win hands down (so to speak...lol)